#11
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Rotor material?
On 2017-10-05 23:20, John B. wrote:
On Thu, 5 Oct 2017 20:10:57 -0700 (PDT), Sir Ridesalot wrote: On Thursday, October 5, 2017 at 7:38:42 PM UTC-4, Joerg wrote: On 2017-10-05 15:41, jbeattie wrote: On Thursday, October 5, 2017 at 12:39:02 PM UTC-7, Joerg wrote: On 2017-10-05 12:34, Joerg wrote: Some rotors are sold for "resin pads only", others do not list restrictions. What is the difference in materials? I am using ceramic based pads not normally sold at the LBS, supposedly similar to what motorcycles have. Because they give me best results. Other questions while at it: My rotors are formally 7" and 6". Can I use 180mm and 160mm instead? The 7" one on my MTB actually measures about 185mm. I'd hate to have to grind down the spacer but might have to because 7" is more rare. Does anyone know what the raw rotors foer custom-laser deals are called? Couldn't find any on EBay. Ideally I'd want rotors that are solid like on motor vehicles, for better heat tolerance. Weight doesn't matter. Add-on: I am also looking for at least 2.2mm thickness like the originals from Promax. The newer ones from Promax only have 2mm and also a weird wavy design: http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/qjAAAO...rj/s-l1600.jpg -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ Hayes makes the 5-7" rotors. https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...ls.php?id=5018 The data on those is a bit unreliable. For example, here the same P/N 98-17551 rotor is listed as 160mm which isn't 6": 160mm is 6.299212598425197. Does that extra .2992125... make that much of a difference? Cheers It might effect the location of the brake on the fork as it would mean that the 160mm brake was about .149" larger radius but I do see brake rotors listed as "6 inch (160mm)" or "7inch (170mm)" which sort of makes one wonder how critical the measurement is. It can result in a large part of the brake pads never making contact with the rotor. Another likely result would be a horrid noise because unfortunately most bike rotors are wavy. You don't want that on a trail with horses up front. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ |
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#13
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Rotor material?
On 10/6/2017 5:22 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-10-06 06:51, wrote: On Thursday, October 5, 2017 at 6:37:10 PM UTC-7, James wrote: On 06/10/17 09:41, jbeattie wrote: All one piece rotors I know of are SS, although you can buy CF rotors. Magura (and I think Avid) makes thick rotors (2mm) that are supposed to be good at shedding heat, but I don't know of anyone who makes them thicker than that. You'll have to do some detective work. I wouldn't have guessed that slightly thicker rotors would be appreciably better at "shedding heat". It would also be better if they didn't have so much material cut out for the weight weenies. So far I haven't been able to find a rotor that is completely solid or at least towards the center. Like motor vehicle rotors are. On MTB's on difficult descents the rotors are almost red-hot. Since I've never seen rims that hot I can only assume that the disks allow you to hang it out a lot further. Oh yeah. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2S1KoZnIjbg The guy should reverse the skewer. Not good to have the release where the rotor is. When I was young, The Ancients locked QR skewers randomly, with many Italians on the right, most French left. Fashion moved to nearly all left around 1970. Through at least 1973 I was uncrating new bikes with skewer handle right side (Garlatti, Cinelli) What difference could it make, aside from rider's personal convenience/opinion/fashion? (my beef is skewers clamped down hard over a fork blade so I can't get a finger under them) -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 |
#14
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Rotor material?
On 2017-10-06 15:42, AMuzi wrote:
On 10/6/2017 5:22 PM, Joerg wrote: On 2017-10-06 06:51, wrote: On Thursday, October 5, 2017 at 6:37:10 PM UTC-7, James wrote: On 06/10/17 09:41, jbeattie wrote: All one piece rotors I know of are SS, although you can buy CF rotors. Magura (and I think Avid) makes thick rotors (2mm) that are supposed to be good at shedding heat, but I don't know of anyone who makes them thicker than that. You'll have to do some detective work. I wouldn't have guessed that slightly thicker rotors would be appreciably better at "shedding heat". It would also be better if they didn't have so much material cut out for the weight weenies. So far I haven't been able to find a rotor that is completely solid or at least towards the center. Like motor vehicle rotors are. On MTB's on difficult descents the rotors are almost red-hot. Since I've never seen rims that hot I can only assume that the disks allow you to hang it out a lot further. Oh yeah. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2S1KoZnIjbg The guy should reverse the skewer. Not good to have the release where the rotor is. When I was young, The Ancients locked QR skewers randomly, with many Italians on the right, most French left. Fashion moved to nearly all left around 1970. Through at least 1973 I was uncrating new bikes with skewer handle right side (Garlatti, Cinelli) What difference could it make, aside from rider's personal convenience/opinion/fashion? Normally it doesn't matter but with disc brakes it does. Some skewer handles are designed wrong in that they can swing past 180 degrees. Or they don't but for some reason the whole thing becomes lose and turns. If that handle gets into the front rotor it can lock up the wheel and the bike will likely eject you over the handlebar. (my beef is skewers clamped down hard over a fork blade so I can't get a finger under them) That's what I do. One has to always keep in mind that crashes happen and how to prevent unnecessary injuries. In a pinch a tire lever will help pull it and since a flat is the main reason to open a skewer you'd have to get that out anyhow. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ |
#15
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Rotor material?
On Friday, October 6, 2017 at 6:42:43 PM UTC-4, AMuzi wrote:
On 10/6/2017 5:22 PM, Joerg wrote: On 2017-10-06 06:51, wrote: On Thursday, October 5, 2017 at 6:37:10 PM UTC-7, James wrote: On 06/10/17 09:41, jbeattie wrote: All one piece rotors I know of are SS, although you can buy CF rotors. Magura (and I think Avid) makes thick rotors (2mm) that are supposed to be good at shedding heat, but I don't know of anyone who makes them thicker than that. You'll have to do some detective work. I wouldn't have guessed that slightly thicker rotors would be appreciably better at "shedding heat". It would also be better if they didn't have so much material cut out for the weight weenies. So far I haven't been able to find a rotor that is completely solid or at least towards the center. Like motor vehicle rotors are. On MTB's on difficult descents the rotors are almost red-hot. Since I've never seen rims that hot I can only assume that the disks allow you to hang it out a lot further. Oh yeah. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2S1KoZnIjbg The guy should reverse the skewer. Not good to have the release where the rotor is. When I was young, The Ancients locked QR skewers randomly, with many Italians on the right, most French left. Fashion moved to nearly all left around 1970. Through at least 1973 I was uncrating new bikes with skewer handle right side (Garlatti, Cinelli) What difference could it make, aside from rider's personal convenience/opinion/fashion? (my beef is skewers clamped down hard over a fork blade so I can't get a finger under them) -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 Easier for wheel replacement during a big race? Cheers |
#16
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Rotor material?
On 10/6/2017 6:37 PM, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Friday, October 6, 2017 at 6:42:43 PM UTC-4, AMuzi wrote: On 10/6/2017 5:22 PM, Joerg wrote: On 2017-10-06 06:51, wrote: On Thursday, October 5, 2017 at 6:37:10 PM UTC-7, James wrote: On 06/10/17 09:41, jbeattie wrote: All one piece rotors I know of are SS, although you can buy CF rotors. Magura (and I think Avid) makes thick rotors (2mm) that are supposed to be good at shedding heat, but I don't know of anyone who makes them thicker than that. You'll have to do some detective work. I wouldn't have guessed that slightly thicker rotors would be appreciably better at "shedding heat". It would also be better if they didn't have so much material cut out for the weight weenies. So far I haven't been able to find a rotor that is completely solid or at least towards the center. Like motor vehicle rotors are. On MTB's on difficult descents the rotors are almost red-hot. Since I've never seen rims that hot I can only assume that the disks allow you to hang it out a lot further. Oh yeah. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2S1KoZnIjbg The guy should reverse the skewer. Not good to have the release where the rotor is. When I was young, The Ancients locked QR skewers randomly, with many Italians on the right, most French left. Fashion moved to nearly all left around 1970. Through at least 1973 I was uncrating new bikes with skewer handle right side (Garlatti, Cinelli) What difference could it make, aside from rider's personal convenience/opinion/fashion? (my beef is skewers clamped down hard over a fork blade so I can't get a finger under them) Easier for wheel replacement during a big race? In theory maybe but I remove and reinstall wheels all day long. Yes, you can slip something under it and take care not to scratch the finish but what's better about that? Slow Release is not a feature. p.s. Almost all skewers need lubrication. They are frequently sticky binding and inefficient, giving low clamping force with firm hand pressure. -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 |
#17
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Rotor material?
On 10/7/2017 11:29 AM, AMuzi wrote:
p.s. Almost all skewers need lubrication. They are frequently sticky binding and inefficient, giving low clamping force with firm hand pressure. Yep. Almost every time I ride my touring bike, I leave right from my house, instead of tossing it into or onto a car. So I hadn't had the front wheel out for many months. A few days ago, I had to load it into a car. I almost couldn't get the front quick release to open. It took three tries and all my strength. I suppose, as with stems and seatposts, it makes sense to periodically move and lubricate every bike part that's supposed to move. -- - Frank Krygowski |
#18
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Rotor material?
"Joerg" wrote in message ... Some rotors are sold for "resin pads only", others do not list restrictions. What is the difference in materials? I am using ceramic based pads not normally sold at the LBS, supposedly similar to what motorcycles have. Because they give me best results. Stainless is pretty universal on motorcycles because it looks pretty - cast iron works better as a brake rotor. cast iron is unlikely to be suitable for the thin fragile rotors on bicycles. most bicycle rotors I've seen appear to be some form of stainless. There's a pretty much infinite range of chrome/ferrous ratios. there's probably various alloys with nickel and or vanadium etc. |
#19
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Rotor material?
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#20
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Rotor material?
On Sunday, October 8, 2017 at 5:05:32 PM UTC-7, James wrote:
On 07/10/17 00:51, wrote: On Thursday, October 5, 2017 at 6:37:10 PM UTC-7, James wrote: On 06/10/17 09:41, jbeattie wrote: All one piece rotors I know of are SS, although you can buy CF rotors. Magura (and I think Avid) makes thick rotors (2mm) that are supposed to be good at shedding heat, but I don't know of anyone who makes them thicker than that. You'll have to do some detective work. I wouldn't have guessed that slightly thicker rotors would be appreciably better at "shedding heat". On MTB's on difficult descents the rotors are almost red-hot. Since I've never seen rims that hot I can only assume that the disks allow you to hang it out a lot further. Since bicycle rims have enormous cooling surface area compared to a disc rotor, it is obvious why they don't get so hot yet can still provide adequate braking performance. And let's face it, aluminium tends to phase change from solid to liquid without appearing "red hot". With LARGE disks on my Trek Hi-Fi I've descended a hill where at the bottom the disks were smoking to the point where I worried about just that thing. |
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