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Rotor material?



 
 
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  #11  
Old October 6th 17, 11:16 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Joerg[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 4,442
Default Rotor material?

On 2017-10-05 23:20, John B. wrote:
On Thu, 5 Oct 2017 20:10:57 -0700 (PDT), Sir Ridesalot
wrote:

On Thursday, October 5, 2017 at 7:38:42 PM UTC-4, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-10-05 15:41, jbeattie wrote:
On Thursday, October 5, 2017 at 12:39:02 PM UTC-7, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-10-05 12:34, Joerg wrote:
Some rotors are sold for "resin pads only", others do not list
restrictions. What is the difference in materials?

I am using ceramic based pads not normally sold at the LBS,
supposedly similar to what motorcycles have. Because they give me
best results.

Other questions while at it:

My rotors are formally 7" and 6". Can I use 180mm and 160mm
instead? The 7" one on my MTB actually measures about 185mm. I'd
hate to have to grind down the spacer but might have to because
7" is more rare.

Does anyone know what the raw rotors foer custom-laser deals are
called? Couldn't find any on EBay. Ideally I'd want rotors that
are solid like on motor vehicles, for better heat tolerance.
Weight doesn't matter.


Add-on: I am also looking for at least 2.2mm thickness like the
originals from Promax. The newer ones from Promax only have 2mm and
also a weird wavy design:

http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/qjAAAO...rj/s-l1600.jpg

-- Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

Hayes makes the 5-7" rotors.
https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...ls.php?id=5018


The data on those is a bit unreliable. For example, here the same P/N
98-17551 rotor is listed as 160mm which isn't 6":


160mm is 6.299212598425197. Does that extra .2992125... make that much of a difference?

Cheers


It might effect the location of the brake on the fork as it would mean
that the 160mm brake was about .149" larger radius but I do see brake
rotors listed as "6 inch (160mm)" or "7inch (170mm)" which sort of
makes one wonder how critical the measurement is.



It can result in a large part of the brake pads never making contact
with the rotor. Another likely result would be a horrid noise because
unfortunately most bike rotors are wavy. You don't want that on a trail
with horses up front.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/
Ads
  #13  
Old October 6th 17, 11:42 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
AMuzi
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Posts: 8,923
Default Rotor material?

On 10/6/2017 5:22 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-10-06 06:51, wrote:
On Thursday, October 5, 2017 at 6:37:10 PM UTC-7, James
wrote:
On 06/10/17 09:41, jbeattie wrote:


All one piece rotors I know of are SS, although you can
buy CF
rotors. Magura (and I think Avid) makes thick rotors
(2mm) that
are supposed to be good at shedding heat, but I don't
know of
anyone who makes them thicker than that. You'll have to
do some
detective work.



I wouldn't have guessed that slightly thicker rotors
would be
appreciably better at "shedding heat".



It would also be better if they didn't have so much material
cut out for the weight weenies. So far I haven't been able
to find a rotor that is completely solid or at least towards
the center. Like motor vehicle rotors are.


On MTB's on difficult descents the rotors are almost
red-hot. Since
I've never seen rims that hot I can only assume that the
disks allow
you to hang it out a lot further.


Oh yeah.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2S1KoZnIjbg

The guy should reverse the skewer. Not good to have the
release where the rotor is.


When I was young, The Ancients locked QR skewers randomly,
with many Italians on the right, most French left. Fashion
moved to nearly all left around 1970. Through at least 1973
I was uncrating new bikes with skewer handle right side
(Garlatti, Cinelli) What difference could it make, aside
from rider's personal convenience/opinion/fashion?

(my beef is skewers clamped down hard over a fork blade so I
can't get a finger under them)

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971


  #14  
Old October 7th 17, 12:14 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Joerg[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 4,442
Default Rotor material?

On 2017-10-06 15:42, AMuzi wrote:
On 10/6/2017 5:22 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-10-06 06:51, wrote:
On Thursday, October 5, 2017 at 6:37:10 PM UTC-7, James
wrote:
On 06/10/17 09:41, jbeattie wrote:


All one piece rotors I know of are SS, although you can
buy CF
rotors. Magura (and I think Avid) makes thick rotors
(2mm) that
are supposed to be good at shedding heat, but I don't
know of
anyone who makes them thicker than that. You'll have to
do some
detective work.



I wouldn't have guessed that slightly thicker rotors
would be
appreciably better at "shedding heat".


It would also be better if they didn't have so much material
cut out for the weight weenies. So far I haven't been able
to find a rotor that is completely solid or at least towards
the center. Like motor vehicle rotors are.


On MTB's on difficult descents the rotors are almost
red-hot. Since
I've never seen rims that hot I can only assume that the
disks allow
you to hang it out a lot further.


Oh yeah.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2S1KoZnIjbg

The guy should reverse the skewer. Not good to have the
release where the rotor is.


When I was young, The Ancients locked QR skewers randomly, with many
Italians on the right, most French left. Fashion moved to nearly all
left around 1970. Through at least 1973 I was uncrating new bikes with
skewer handle right side (Garlatti, Cinelli) What difference could it
make, aside from rider's personal convenience/opinion/fashion?


Normally it doesn't matter but with disc brakes it does. Some skewer
handles are designed wrong in that they can swing past 180 degrees. Or
they don't but for some reason the whole thing becomes lose and turns.
If that handle gets into the front rotor it can lock up the wheel and
the bike will likely eject you over the handlebar.


(my beef is skewers clamped down hard over a fork blade so I can't get a
finger under them)


That's what I do. One has to always keep in mind that crashes happen and
how to prevent unnecessary injuries. In a pinch a tire lever will help
pull it and since a flat is the main reason to open a skewer you'd have
to get that out anyhow.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/
  #15  
Old October 7th 17, 12:37 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Sir Ridesalot
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 3,568
Default Rotor material?

On Friday, October 6, 2017 at 6:42:43 PM UTC-4, AMuzi wrote:
On 10/6/2017 5:22 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-10-06 06:51, wrote:
On Thursday, October 5, 2017 at 6:37:10 PM UTC-7, James
wrote:
On 06/10/17 09:41, jbeattie wrote:


All one piece rotors I know of are SS, although you can
buy CF
rotors. Magura (and I think Avid) makes thick rotors
(2mm) that
are supposed to be good at shedding heat, but I don't
know of
anyone who makes them thicker than that. You'll have to
do some
detective work.



I wouldn't have guessed that slightly thicker rotors
would be
appreciably better at "shedding heat".


It would also be better if they didn't have so much material
cut out for the weight weenies. So far I haven't been able
to find a rotor that is completely solid or at least towards
the center. Like motor vehicle rotors are.


On MTB's on difficult descents the rotors are almost
red-hot. Since
I've never seen rims that hot I can only assume that the
disks allow
you to hang it out a lot further.


Oh yeah.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2S1KoZnIjbg

The guy should reverse the skewer. Not good to have the
release where the rotor is.


When I was young, The Ancients locked QR skewers randomly,
with many Italians on the right, most French left. Fashion
moved to nearly all left around 1970. Through at least 1973
I was uncrating new bikes with skewer handle right side
(Garlatti, Cinelli) What difference could it make, aside
from rider's personal convenience/opinion/fashion?

(my beef is skewers clamped down hard over a fork blade so I
can't get a finger under them)

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971


Easier for wheel replacement during a big race?

Cheers
  #16  
Old October 7th 17, 04:29 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
AMuzi
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 8,923
Default Rotor material?

On 10/6/2017 6:37 PM, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Friday, October 6, 2017 at 6:42:43 PM UTC-4, AMuzi wrote:
On 10/6/2017 5:22 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-10-06 06:51, wrote:
On Thursday, October 5, 2017 at 6:37:10 PM UTC-7, James
wrote:
On 06/10/17 09:41, jbeattie wrote:


All one piece rotors I know of are SS, although you can
buy CF
rotors. Magura (and I think Avid) makes thick rotors
(2mm) that
are supposed to be good at shedding heat, but I don't
know of
anyone who makes them thicker than that. You'll have to
do some
detective work.



I wouldn't have guessed that slightly thicker rotors
would be
appreciably better at "shedding heat".


It would also be better if they didn't have so much material
cut out for the weight weenies. So far I haven't been able
to find a rotor that is completely solid or at least towards
the center. Like motor vehicle rotors are.


On MTB's on difficult descents the rotors are almost
red-hot. Since
I've never seen rims that hot I can only assume that the
disks allow
you to hang it out a lot further.


Oh yeah.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2S1KoZnIjbg

The guy should reverse the skewer. Not good to have the
release where the rotor is.


When I was young, The Ancients locked QR skewers randomly,
with many Italians on the right, most French left. Fashion
moved to nearly all left around 1970. Through at least 1973
I was uncrating new bikes with skewer handle right side
(Garlatti, Cinelli) What difference could it make, aside
from rider's personal convenience/opinion/fashion?

(my beef is skewers clamped down hard over a fork blade so I
can't get a finger under them)



Easier for wheel replacement during a big race?


In theory maybe but I remove and reinstall wheels all day
long. Yes, you can slip something under it and take care not
to scratch the finish but what's better about that? Slow
Release is not a feature.

p.s. Almost all skewers need lubrication. They are
frequently sticky binding and inefficient, giving low
clamping force with firm hand pressure.



--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971


  #17  
Old October 7th 17, 05:01 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Frank Krygowski[_4_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 5,260
Default Rotor material?

On 10/7/2017 11:29 AM, AMuzi wrote:


p.s. Almost all skewers need lubrication. They are frequently sticky
binding and inefficient, giving low clamping force with firm hand pressure.


Yep. Almost every time I ride my touring bike, I leave right from my
house, instead of tossing it into or onto a car. So I hadn't had the
front wheel out for many months.

A few days ago, I had to load it into a car. I almost couldn't get the
front quick release to open. It took three tries and all my strength.

I suppose, as with stems and seatposts, it makes sense to periodically
move and lubricate every bike part that's supposed to move.

--
- Frank Krygowski
  #18  
Old October 8th 17, 09:05 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Ian Field
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 197
Default Rotor material?



"Joerg" wrote in message
...
Some rotors are sold for "resin pads only", others do not list
restrictions. What is the difference in materials?

I am using ceramic based pads not normally sold at the LBS, supposedly
similar to what motorcycles have. Because they give me best results.


Stainless is pretty universal on motorcycles because it looks pretty - cast
iron works better as a brake rotor.

cast iron is unlikely to be suitable for the thin fragile rotors on
bicycles.

most bicycle rotors I've seen appear to be some form of stainless. There's a
pretty much infinite range of chrome/ferrous ratios. there's probably
various alloys with nickel and or vanadium etc.

 




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