Cleaning unfinished aluminum IRD ferrules

What is the best way to clean unfinished aluminum? I have IRD cable
sets (brakes and derailleurs) and the unfinished aluminum ferrules (or
nipples if that makes it more clear) that have become corroded from the
sweat running of my hands. I have a few extra feet but it is easier to
pre-load the liners when I am doing replacements.

As it is now I have a few (call it a hundred) ferrules that are on
their own and they are about 3 per inch (2 sizes actually) and the
ideal thing would be to have a low cost, non-hazardous fluid to soak
them in while they rotate out (in storage). When I go to install them
on the new liner, I would hope to have the corrosion loose enough that
the ferrules slide easily on to the liner as if they were new. I would
then lightly buff the cable housing when it is under tension. I don't
need them to be as clean as they would be from a paste aluminum cleaner
and I don't have a problem using the past, but the main objective is
to get the holes cleaned. The outside cleaning is just a benefit I
expect from having to handle them. I otherwise would not bother and for
a while I just out the unusable ones off to the side and if they were
dirty looking but went on the liner smoothly I went ahead and used
them.

What kind of fluids would help soften up the corrosion (sodium, etc.)
build-up enough for the liner to install as easy as new (return the
inside diameter to as new)?

Chris M wrote:
What is the best way to clean unfinished aluminum? I have IRD cable
sets (brakes and derailleurs) and the unfinished aluminum ferrules (or
nipples if that makes it more clear) that have become corroded from the
sweat running of my hands. I have a few extra feet but it is easier to
pre-load the liners when I am doing replacements.

As it is now I have a few (call it a hundred) ferrules that are on
their own and they are about 3 per inch (2 sizes actually) and the
ideal thing would be to have a low cost, non-hazardous fluid to soak
them in while they rotate out (in storage). When I go to install them
on the new liner, I would hope to have the corrosion loose enough that
the ferrules slide easily on to the liner as if they were new. I would
then lightly buff the cable housing when it is under tension. I don't
need them to be as clean as they would be from a paste aluminum cleaner
and I don't have a problem using the past, but the main objective is
to get the holes cleaned. The outside cleaning is just a benefit I
expect from having to handle them. I otherwise would not bother and for
a while I just out the unusable ones off to the side and if they were
dirty looking but went on the liner smoothly I went ahead and used
them.

What kind of fluids would help soften up the corrosion (sodium, etc.)
build-up enough for the liner to install as easy as new (return the
inside diameter to as new)?

afaik, there are no easy chemical resolution of this problem. if the
alloy is corroding, it was insufficiently anodized. i expect your best
bet is to physically clean, then reassemble with a waterproof grease.

Chris M wrote:

I have IRD cable
sets (brakes and derailleurs) and the unfinished aluminum ferrules (or
nipples if that makes it more clear) that have become corroded from the
sweat running of my hands.

Sounds like you need less toxic sweat. Consider having yourself
exorcised. That, or a full-body tool dip, should fix your problem.

What kind of fluids would help soften up the corrosion (sodium, etc.)
build-up enough for the liner to install as easy as new (return the
inside diameter to as new)?

Household ammonia should work for this. Don't soak your parts longer
than necessary.

Chalo Colina

Chalo wrote:
Chris M wrote:

I have IRD cable
sets (brakes and derailleurs) and the unfinished aluminum ferrules
(or nipples if that makes it more clear) that have become corroded
from the sweat running of my hands.

Sounds like you need less toxic sweat. Consider having yourself
exorcised. That, or a full-body tool dip, should fix your problem.

What kind of fluids would help soften up the corrosion (sodium, etc.)
build-up enough for the liner to install as easy as new (return the
inside diameter to as new)?

Household ammonia should work for this. Don't soak your parts longer
than necessary.

/Bike/ parts, that is.

I would paint them after you clean them to keep this problem from
happening again. If they have O-rings inside just pack the inside with
grease mount on a wire and spray them a few times then clean them out.
There are special etchants for prepping aluminum for paint but it's
probably not worth the bother.

Hi Chris

Ultrasonic cleaning might work. It seems to me that, somewhere in the
distant past, I've seen ultrasonic cleaning, that used a quick sand
like, abrasive solution in the tank. The problem w/ any UT cleaning
unit is money. I doubt that a reasonably priced unit would have the
power to move this sludge, or even a plain H2O solution satisfactorily.
I've considered buying a small unit for cleaning chains & bearing.
I've seen machines
@ $100. But, I do not know how to check out their power, prior to
buying. I've also considered finding a used industrial strength one.
The trouble there, is that piezeo (sp?) electric transducers do ware
out w/ usage. I know they don't come cheap. Come to think of it, I
don't know that UT cleaning machines use piezeo electric trannys. I
hope they use a cheaper type tranny.
Is anyone in this group knowledgeable of UT Cleaning? If so please
share w/ us.

I'm going to do some research, John

Sounds like you need less toxic sweat. Consider having yourself
exorcised. That, or a full-body tool dip, should fix your problem.

/Bike/ parts, that is

No he means dip the entire OPs body in glyptol, or something like it,
to prevent him from sweating

Sorta like the movie Goldfinger, only glyptol, not Gold.

John

john wrote:
Sounds like you need less toxic sweat. Consider having yourself
exorcised. That, or a full-body tool dip, should fix your problem.

/Bike/ parts, that is

No he means dip the entire OPs body in glyptol, or something like it,
to prevent him from sweating

Sorta like the movie Goldfinger, only glyptol, not Gold.

JFTR, the part you snipped was: "Sounds like you need less toxic sweat.
Consider having yourself
exorcised. That, or a full-body tool dip, should fix your problem."
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Bill "never dip one's tool unless one means it" S.

Bill Sornson wrote:
john wrote:
Sounds like you need less toxic sweat. Consider having yourself
exorcised. That, or a full-body tool dip, should fix your problem.

/Bike/ parts, that is

No he means dip the entire OPs body in glyptol, or something like it,
to prevent him from sweating

Sorta like the movie Goldfinger, only glyptol, not Gold.

JFTR, the part you snipped was: "Sounds like you need less toxic
sweat. Consider having yourself
exorcised. That, or a full-body tool dip, should fix your problem."
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^


OK, I need a nap. NEVER MIND!!!