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Spoke replacement questions
So, in trying to true my wheel I ended up stripping the brass nipple.
Resorting to my "dumb brute" method, the only thing I can think to do is cut the spoke and replace said spoke and nipple with new ones (I tried wrenching it off with pliers w/o success). Question 1: this is a wheen from circa 1992, 2 mm in width, seems to be SS. Can I replace just one spoke, or should I replace them all at one time? The other spokes are fine. Question 2: if ordering new spokes, when I measure the existing spoke, do I include the little bend where it attaches to the hub as part of the length? Cheers! Duke |
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#2
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Spoke replacement questions
Duke S? writes:
So, in trying to true my wheel I ended up stripping the brass nipple. Resorting to my "dumb brute" method, the only thing I can think to do is cut the spoke and replace said spoke and nipple with new ones (I tried wrenching it off with pliers w/o success). You must have some brutal thread locking compound in that wheel or your pliers aren't any good. I guess that's a testimonial why not to use thread lock and instead, properly tension a wheel... with enough spokes to carry the intended load. Question 1: this is a wheel from circa 1992, 2 mm in width, seems to be SS. Can I replace just one spoke, or should I replace them all at one time? The other spokes are fine. Well, that spoke ought to be fine too, but how did it happen to be welded to the brass? If a bit of heat from a soldering iron doesn't loosen it, then you have an unusual condition. Question 2: if ordering new spokes, when I measure the existing spoke, do I include the little bend where it attaches to the hub as part of the length? The length of spokes is measured from the inside of the elbow to its threaded end as if it were hanging from the end of a steel rule (a spoke ruler). Jobst Brandt |
#3
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Spoke replacement questions
a soldering iron! ok. one for the home team. i have an iron for the
torch! i had inumerable problems when not using a spokey. A.S., a thousand fewer problems. several wheels wiser, i replace nipples when worn, replace the drive side spokes every 4000 miles, replace spokes-DT!! not generic- showing surface stress cracks inside the bend (or anywhere), and lube nipple seat and hub hole/bend with finish line wax with teflon. and am much happier wioth the rear wheel performance-more work equals much less work. |
#4
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Spoke replacement questions
wrote: Duke S? writes: So, in trying to true my wheel I ended up stripping the brass nipple. Resorting to my "dumb brute" method, the only thing I can think to do is cut the spoke and replace said spoke and nipple with new ones (I tried wrenching it off with pliers w/o success). You must have some brutal thread locking compound in that wheel or your pliers aren't any good. I guess that's a testimonial why not to use thread lock and instead, properly tension a wheel... with enough spokes to carry the intended load. It's also possible that the nipple seat was not oiled and the nipple is binding on the rim. I rounded off a few brass nipples trying to true a wheel that way (a long time ago before I knew better). The rim was a socketless eyeletless design (Matrix Iso C). |
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#6
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Spoke replacement questions
Andrew Lee writes:
So, in trying to true my wheel I ended up stripping the brass nipple. Resorting to my "dumb brute" method, the only thing I can think to do is cut the spoke and replace said spoke and nipple with new ones (I tried wrenching it off with pliers w/o success). You must have some brutal thread locking compound in that wheel or your pliers aren't any good. I guess that's a testimonial why not to use thread lock and instead, properly tension a wheel... with enough spokes to carry the intended load. It's also possible that the nipple seat was not oiled and the nipple is binding on the rim. I rounded off a few brass nipples trying to true a wheel that way (a long time ago before I knew better). The rim was a socketless eyeletless design (Matrix Iso C). I guess with today's fashion rims, many don't leave much spoke nipple showing so that extraction of a rounded spoke nipple with pliers doesn't work. The who;e boutique wheel scene is a bust and many riders aren't even aware that there once were functional rims and wheels that were easily maintained. Yes, it all began back in the days when Spoke Prep made its debut, just about the time tied and soldered spokes went away. I think the new plague is worse than the old. Jobst Brandt |
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Spoke replacement questions
Paul Kopit writes:
several wheels wiser, i replace nipples when worn, replace the drive side spokes every 4000 miles, replace spokes-DT!! not generic- showing surface stress cracks inside the bend (or anywhere), and lube nipple seat and hub hole/bend with finish line wax with Teflon. and am much happier with the rear wheel performance-more work equals much less work. I don't do any of that replacement stuff and my wheels last a long time. I can't say I've worn wheelsets out. Usually I hit holes and crash before the rims wear through. I reuse nipples all the time and spokes frequently... always when re-rimming. As I mentioned, I have wheels whose spokes have well over 200,000 miles in the service of many worn out rims. At times I need to replace a spoke nipple or two when changing rims. Linseed oil might seal spoke threads better against fine sand intrusion but it isn't useful otherwise. When I'm building, I use linseed oil on the threads of the spokes and grease the shoulder of the nipples. A Spokey holds the nipple on 3 sides and doesn't seem to even mark the nipple. I find no difference in longevity using butted or straight spokes and have had good luck with DT, Hoshi and Wheelsmith spokes. That's also belt and suspenders. A hardened steel slotted spoke wrench that engages two faces is enough to twist off spokes. Rounded spoke nipples are caused by rim friction; no lubrication between rim and spoke nipple. A three sided wrench does no more than two sided one when turning a square nut. The only thing a wrench that catches four corners does is require axial engagement that is unnecessarily tedious. A slotted spoke wrench can be easily and rapidly engaged from the side of spoke nipples the way one would do with an open end wrench on a hex nut. Jobst Brandt |
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Spoke replacement questions
Dukes909 wrote:
So, in trying to true my wheel I ended up stripping the brass nipple. Resorting to my "dumb brute" method, the only thing I can think to do is cut the spoke and replace said spoke and nipple with new ones (I tried wrenching it off with pliers w/o success). it's not unknown. particularly if the spokes have been re-tensioned a few times and the threads have galled. that + moisture = differential corrosion and the threads will sieze. you can also get fine grit in the threads which can lock them quite effectively too if there's nothing like oil or grease or threadlock keeping the grit out. Question 1: this is a wheen from circa 1992, 2 mm in width, seems to be SS. Can I replace just one spoke, or should I replace them all at one time? The other spokes are fine. just 1 is ok. Question 2: if ordering new spokes, when I measure the existing spoke, do I include the little bend where it attaches to the hub as part of the length? no - measure from the inside to the tip of the thread. Cheers! Duke |
#9
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Spoke replacement questions
"jim beam" wrote in message
... Question 1: this is a wheen from circa 1992, 2 mm in width, seems to be SS. Can I replace just one spoke, or should I replace them all at one time? The other spokes are fine. just 1 is ok. Question 2: if ordering new spokes, when I measure the existing spoke, do I include the little bend where it attaches to the hub as part of the length? no - measure from the inside to the tip of the thread. Hooray! Real answers to both! Cheers! Duke |
#10
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Spoke replacement questions
Why replace the spoke?
Take off the rim tape, and a straight screwdriver in the nipple end should remove it. Then put on a new nipple, tension, and replace the rim tape. You're done. |
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