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#1
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Training for a long ride
Well I have 5 weeks to go before my big trip and I hoping that I am putting
in enough kms to be able to sit back and enjoy my little epic at the end of April. Do you think an average of 50kms a day over the next 5 weeks will set me up for an enjoyable ride for a 1400kms ride over 17 days? A live in the hills of the Atherton Tablelands and believe me I am doing some awesome hillclimbs now and actually doing them with ease. How do people work up for a long ride with panniers front and rear (rear will be 4kgs each and front will be 1.5kgs each hopefully!). So the panniers should not weigh more than 11 or 12 kgs all up. We will be carrying water though - Any suggestions on what preliminary training I should be doing? Thanks Kathy the middle aged still learning this cycling business wannabe :P |
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#2
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Training for a long ride
just us Wrote: Well I have 5 weeks to go before my big trip and I hoping that I am putting in enough kms to be able to sit back and enjoy my little epic at the end of April. Do you think an average of 50kms a day over the next 5 weeks will set me up for an enjoyable ride for a 1400kms ride over 17 days? A live in the hills of the Atherton Tablelands and believe me I am doing some awesome hillclimbs now and actually doing them with ease. How do people work up for a long ride with panniers front and rear (rear will be 4kgs each and front will be 1.5kgs each hopefully!). So the panniers should not weigh more than 11 or 12 kgs all up. We will be carrying water though - Any suggestions on what preliminary training I should be doing? Thanks Kathy the middle aged still learning this cycling business wannabe :P you'll manage admirably, but to add to the training and make the extra load not become an unwelcome nightmare, - train with your panniers and full water load, and also (for fun) - change a tube every day, just deflate one and remove it and put it back and pump it up, - take off a wheel and untrue one and true it again, its more than riding the distance that makes it pleasant, its also being able to deal with the rudimentary things that happen and keeping them rudimentary rather than shattering... if you are able to handle - all the mechanicals, like - replacing a bottom bracket, - a chain ring, - a cassette, - a bent derailleur and - a busted seat rail, etc,... then nothing will surprise you and the trip will be better than you ever imagined... oh, and one day for training, - don't ride the bike, push it...for 10 klms and see how it feels, what you have to do to get through and how to deal with the mental and physical demands that will make on you... still want to do the ride?...of course you do! and you will never forget it...they can be life changing.... ! -- rooman |
#3
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Training for a long ride
just us Wrote: Well I have 5 weeks to go before my big trip and I hoping that I am putting in enough kms to be able to sit back and enjoy my little epic at the end of April. Do you think an average of 50kms a day over the next 5 weeks will set me up for an enjoyable ride for a 1400kms ride over 17 days? A live in the hills of the Atherton Tablelands and believe me I am doing some awesome hillclimbs now and actually doing them with ease. How do people work up for a long ride with panniers front and rear (rear will be 4kgs each and front will be 1.5kgs each hopefully!). So the panniers should not weigh more than 11 or 12 kgs all up. We will be carrying water though - Any suggestions on what preliminary training I should be doing? Thanks Kathy the middle aged still learning this cycling business wannabe :P We rode through The Atherton Tablelands last year on the Queensland bike ride and if you aren't having trouble doing those hills you'll be fine. Perhaps try doing intervals up one of them on the way home once a week would be good but if your only doing 1400kms don't worry about making it. We trained a bit with a few kilos in each of the panniers to get used to carrying them them again. Just make sure your bike has been serviced a couple of weeks before you go, not at the last minute in case something is wrong. We are up to nearly 9,000kms on our tandem with no problems. Tyres every 2-3,000 kms and we are on to our third chain and second cassette. A good tool kit and some spares and you'll be fine. Pack light and Enjoy yourselves Cheers Geoff -- geoffs |
#4
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Training for a long ride
just us wrote:
Well I have 5 weeks to go before my big trip and I hoping that I am putting in enough kms to be able to sit back and enjoy my little epic at the end of April. Do you think an average of 50kms a day over the next 5 weeks will set me up for an enjoyable ride for a 1400kms ride over 17 days? A live in the hills of the Atherton Tablelands and believe me I am doing some awesome hillclimbs now and actually doing them with ease. How do people work up for a long ride with panniers front and rear (rear will be 4kgs each and front will be 1.5kgs each hopefully!). So the panniers should not weigh more than 11 or 12 kgs all up. We will be carrying water though - Any suggestions on what preliminary training I should be doing? Thanks Kathy the middle aged still learning this cycling business wannabe :P I reckon you qualify as a touring expert in your own right by now Kathy I'd just make sure I was up to a 100km ride with load on hills first - toughen up the bum and the leg muscles! If possible do such a long ride 2 or 3 days before you set off as well (not the day before). Equipment-wise, you mentioned in another thread that you carry spare spokes. Make sure you've also got the right tool to remove your freewheel/cassette. You shouldn't need to carry a huge spanner to drive it - any servo/farmhouse will have a shifter. Don't forget a couple of screwdrivers and allen keys that will fit the things which might come loose or need adjustment - they're small and light. Also, tools to reassemble any cooking stove or similiar - they can disassemble themselves quickly on bad roads. John |
#5
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Training for a long ride
just us wrote:
Well I have 5 weeks to go before my big trip and I hoping that I am putting in enough kms to be able to sit back and enjoy my little epic at the end of April. Do you think an average of 50kms a day over the next 5 weeks will set me up for an enjoyable ride for a 1400kms ride over 17 days? A live in the hills of the Atherton Tablelands and believe me I am doing some awesome hillclimbs now and actually doing them with ease. How do people work up for a long ride with panniers front and rear (rear will be 4kgs each and front will be 1.5kgs each hopefully!). So the panniers should not weigh more than 11 or 12 kgs all up. We will be carrying water though - Any suggestions on what preliminary training I should be doing? Thanks Kathy the middle aged still learning this cycling business wannabe :P I recommend you obtain a copy of The Memory of Running by Ron McLarty. Read it and do nothing else out of the ordinary for the next five weeks. P |
#6
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Training for a long ride
Laughing at the suggestion of "pushing uphills". Have done a bit of that in
the past and thought that I was over it! LOL. I have a decent little tool kit now and yep have changed tyres more times than I care to remember, have taken things off and put them back on, have adjusted this and that but I am really worried about that wheel truing business. I am going to Cairns to day and will ask LBS for some pointers or a book or something. Actually I am going to Cairns to pick up a Trekking Bar like this one - http://harriscyclery.net/itemdetails.cfm?ID=2109 which should be interesting Kathy. |
#7
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Training for a long ride
just us wrote:
I am really worried about that wheel truing business. OK, for what it's worth I'll have a go at typing "John's guide to on-the-road wheel truing". Firstly, deflate the tyre so you don't damage the rim tape. Then use the brake blocks as your measure of what's true. As per my comment in your earlier thread, you can usually replace a single spoke and get the wheel quite true by adjusting just that single spoke. The same goes for replacing 2 spokes if they're not close together at the rim. Just adjust those. The rest of this assumes you need to approach truing a bit more seriously. If you're replacing quite a few spokes at once, first get them roughly to the tension of their neighbours. Always tighten spokes to true them, don't loosen any if you can avoid it. There are 2 reasons for this. Spokes usually loosen over time, so they probably could all do with a bit of a tighten anyway. Secondly, by just tightening, you keep the whole situation much more under control. Spin the wheel to find the places where the rim needs to be pulled back towards centre. Then (one area at a time) adjust the spokes on the side where tightening will achieve this. So with the rim moving too far to the left in a particular spot, tighten the spokes in that area which go to the right of the hub. Tighten each spoke by a half turn (180º). If any of them seem excessively loose, then do those by a full 360º turn instead. Spin, reassess, and continue as necessary. Actually I am going to Cairns to pick up a Trekking Bar like this one - http://harriscyclery.net/itemdetails.cfm?ID=2109 which should be interesting Kathy. Now that looks like it will be comfortable - plenty of choice of riding position. John |
#8
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Training for a long ride
I wrote:
Tighten each spoke by a half turn (180º). To clarify, there's no need to tighten spokes right arund the wheel - far from it. Just work gently on the ones which will work to pull the wheel into line. John |
#9
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Training for a long ride
"John Henderson" wrote in message ... just us wrote: I am really worried about that wheel truing business. OK, for what it's worth I'll have a go at typing "John's guide to on-the-road wheel truing". Firstly, deflate the tyre so you don't damage the rim tape. Then use the brake blocks as your measure of what's true. As per my comment in your earlier thread, you can usually replace a single spoke and get the wheel quite true by adjusting just that single spoke. The same goes for replacing 2 spokes if they're not close together at the rim. Just adjust those. The rest of this assumes you need to approach truing a bit more seriously. If you're replacing quite a few spokes at once, first get them roughly to the tension of their neighbours. Always tighten spokes to true them, don't loosen any if you can avoid it. There are 2 reasons for this. Spokes usually loosen over time, so they probably could all do with a bit of a tighten anyway. Secondly, by just tightening, you keep the whole situation much more under control. Spin the wheel to find the places where the rim needs to be pulled back towards centre. Then (one area at a time) adjust the spokes on the side where tightening will achieve this. So with the rim moving too far to the left in a particular spot, tighten the spokes in that area which go to the right of the hub. Tighten each spoke by a half turn (180º). If any of them seem excessively loose, then do those by a full 360º turn instead. Spin, reassess, and continue as necessary. John 180º is a lot if your close to being true only a few º are needed. I have built / repaired more wheels than I can count and can get them within a sheet of paper in run out. I tighten the ones on the side it needs to go towards a few º and loosen the ones on the other side a few º, that way your not pulling more tension on one part of the wheel and causing it to have run out in the vertical plane. Have a read of Sheldon's guide for wheel truing. http://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html#tensioning |
#10
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Training for a long ride
On Mar 14, 1:17 pm, John Henderson wrote:
I wrote: Tighten each spoke by a half turn (180º). To clarify, there's no need to tighten spokes right arund the wheel - far from it. Just work gently on the ones which will work to pull the wheel into line. John A fibre fix spoke is a good cheats way out. This is a string spoke (actually made out of kevlar) that comes with instructions and fits any size wheel. You don't need to mess around taking clusters off if the broken spoke is on the drive side. The are available from, amoung other places, St Kilda cycles http://www.stkildacycles.com.au/prod...ccessories.htm They are cheaper from various overseas on line bike shops. Peter Damm Peter Damm |
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