the weight of tubeless

Thinking about the tubeless (UST) conversion kit from www.notubes.com
They say you have to add new sealant liquid at intervals between 2 and 7
months long. Why do you have to add new sealant? Does it become doughy
after a while and start sticking to the inside of the tyre? If you add
sealant and it don't get out from there, will that not make the wheel
more and more heavy?

I haven't found an answer to this on the web site and I thought someone
here (besides Ken who probably is too busy to answer) might know.


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I am currently working on this project to go tubeless. I will says it is
not easy on my Coker! I got the sealant and the 36" strip but the tire
will not inflate due to the air leaking to fast. The people at notube
told me to try air compressor that can put more volume of air at once
and not a gas station pump. My local bike shop who put notubes on other
bikes, said they can do this for $5 charge.

As far as reason for putting sealant every 7-8 months, that is not what
I was told. Unless you get many punctures losing alot of sealants, you
don't need to refill the sealant. Hope that answers your questions.


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Wouldn't the gas station pump be as effective as the one at the bike
shop as long as there is an air compressor? A hand pump does not work
according to what I have read. The tyre needs a forceful burst of air to
fit correctly on the rim. That's the reason you will have to carry a CO2
cartridge pump when going out for a ride with a tubeless wheel.

I have read in several places that sealant has to be added periodically,
but i don't know why. If you don't have a leak one would expect the goo
to stay inside the tyre. Therefore I was speculating whether it perhaps
gets harder while ageing.

However, according to this site

http://www.utahmountainbiking.com/go...o-tubeless.htm

the sealant will affect the lifetime of the tyre (if one has converted a
normal tyre).


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The web site says a Nokian (Gaz) has a "weaker bead" and is therefore
not suitable for a tubless convesion. Can this be correct? Any hope of
runing a Muni tire sans tube??
JL


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vivalargo wrote:
*The web site says a Nokian (Gaz) has a "weaker bead" and is therefore
not suitable for a tubless convesion. Can this be correct? Any hope
of runing a Muni tire sans tube??
JL *

The 'tire recommendation page' (http://www.notubes.com/support_tire.php)
at notubes.com is not clear about which Nokian tires are claimed to be
bad. Nokian's standard XC tires are different than the Gazzaloddi in
construction. I wouldn't necessarily read that to include the
Gazzaloddi. Considering how much leverage the Gazz can take when trying
to pry that tire onto a stubborn rim I think the bead is quite strong.
Prying with metal tire levers hasn't damaged the bead on any of my
Gazz's.

Side loads from pecking up a hill or doing a large side hop could
possibly cause the sidewall to "burp" and let out a little burst of air.
I have a hard time seeing tubeless working for aggressive muni, but
I've never tried it and don't know anyone who has so what do I know? I
just have a lot of doubts that it would work for aggressive muni.


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john_childs wrote:
*Side loads from pecking up a hill or doing a large side hop could
possibly cause the sidewall to "burp" and let out a little burst of
air. I have a hard time seeing tubeless working for aggressive muni,
but I've never tried it and don't know anyone who has so what do I
know? I just have a lot of doubts that it would work for aggressive
muni. *

Ding ding ding. We have a winner!
The above information is correct.

I had a lot of burps on a bike, and found that I had to ride differently
to prevent it.
There are MANY flat preventing solutions.

0.If you are getting flats, there are better solutions for M-uni.
1. Converting to notubes is relatively expensive.
2. If you're looking to save weight, look elsewhere.

I recommend notubes for mountain bikes, and have it installed on my
bike.
However, the thin tires require less liquid and I experienced waaay more
flats on a bike than a uni.


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goldenchicken II wrote:
*Thinking about the tubeless (UST) conversion kit from www.notubes.com
They say you have to add new sealant liquid at intervals between 2 and
7 months long. Why do you have to add new sealant? Does it become
doughy after a while and start sticking to the inside of the tyre? If
you add sealant and it don't get out from there, will that not make
the wheel more and more heavy?

I haven't found an answer to this on the web site and I thought
someone here (besides Ken who probably is too busy to answer) might
know. *


I've just burned through my first Coker Tubeless.
-The tyre has lasted slightly less than one year. I think I did the
conversion in Sept or October last year.
-I've not had a single puncture
- It's done about 2000km. 1 x24hr, 1x 160km road ride, 1x 106km
mountainbike race, and about half way across the Swiss Alps.
-I've not had to add any extra sealant. When I changed my tyre, there
was still about 2 scoops of sealant in there. I think my bike mechanic
put three scoops in there when he fitted the tyre. He said he could
have put less because it sealed up with much less sealant.
-I've only had to pump up the tyre every few months. It doens't lose
air much.
- It rides so nice- like you're riding on air instead of rubber. The
tyre is so much more supple. You can also put the pressure right down
for off road traction.
-It rocks!

I'm back to the tube system because I didn't bring extra sealant to
Europe and I dont' have a high pressure compressor to do the initial
setting of the tyre.

I'm really noticing going back to the Coker tube. The wheel feels
really sluggish and hard to slow down on the downhills. On the uphill,
it's like the difference between riding a car and a tractor (especially
up the St Beraud pass we rode the day before- it really sucked). It
takes that extra oomph to push it along. On the flat it's not so
noticeable.

Hope that helps,

Ken
Tubeless Convert


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The only problems with the Gazzalodi I've had were with the 24". Tiny
bubbles formed on the sidewall, eventually popping. The Stans fluid
would seal them but wouldn't hold it very long. I have had no problems
with the 26" (not even burping). Converting a Gazzalodi is a crapshoot,
you could have problems. As for the uni/bike comparison, I would
disregard. I went back to tubes on my bikes because of burping, every
ride. Rider weight has everything to do with it.


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GizmoDuck wrote:
*I've just burned through my first Coker Tubeless.
-The tyre has lasted slightly less than one year. I think I did the
conversion in Sept or October last year.
-I've not had a single puncture
- It's done about 2000km. 1 x24hr, 1x 160km road ride, 1x 106km
mountainbike race, and about half way across the Swiss Alps.
-I've not had to add any extra sealant. When I changed my tyre, there
was still about 2 scoops of sealant in there. I think my bike
mechanic put three scoops in there when he fitted the tyre. He said
he could have put less because it sealed up with much less sealant.
-I've only had to pump up the tyre every few months. It doens't lose
air much.
- It rides so nice- like you're riding on air instead of rubber. The
tyre is so much more supple. You can also put the pressure right down
for off road traction.
-It rocks!

I'm back to the tube system because I didn't bring extra sealant to
Europe and I dont' have a high pressure compressor to do the initial
setting of the tyre.

I'm really noticing going back to the Coker tube. The wheel feels
really sluggish and hard to slow down on the downhills. On the
uphill, it's like the difference between riding a car and a tractor
(especially up the St Beraud pass we rode the day before- it really
sucked). It takes that extra oomph to push it along. On the flat
it's not so noticeable.

Hope that helps,

Ken
Tubeless Convert *


Ah, nothing beats first-hand experiences. Thanks for the quack!

One question only, does this mean you don't need a high pressure pump
(or compressor) when inflating the tyre?


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Olaf Johansson

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If you're having trouble inflating the tire, it's probably cause the
tire is sitting in the center lower area of the rim. If this is the
case, try putting some foam tape in the center under the rubber rim
strip. This will build it up to touch the beads on the tire. Get
everything really soapy before inflating.


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