Just ordered a hub dynamo online

what's the Ti roofs address ? izzit painted or bare ?

yup ahhhhh the Tuscany...incroyable.

rain snow shine or BS....DIVE DUDE DIVE....

and the wheels are perfect for JB

has JB considered a Portland to World occasional bike blog ?

On 09/18/2013 10:52 AM, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On Wednesday, September 18, 2013 10:30:57 AM UTC-4, Jay Beattie wrote:

Sort of off topic, but I was wandering through one of my LBSs, when I saw a nice, locally "made" Ti cross-bike -- more like made in China and assembled here. http://sagetitanium.com/sage-bikes/cyclocross/ Anyway, fun to look at, and probably a more durable option than plastic.

And it's got that magic titanium ride. You know, rigid yet compliant!

On durability: A machinist I knew, who used to work for Carnegie Mellon University, owned a storage shed with a titanium roof. He said someone at the university had finished some testing on titanium sheet, and they were throwing the stuff away. He asked for it and used it for that roof.

I figure future archeologists are going to be puzzled by that.

- Frank Krygowski


In the Mech. E. machine shop or elsewhere?

Mighta been the same guy that taught me how to use a milling machine

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

Peter Howard wrote:

:All is clear now about the history of your latest Rohloff hubbed winter
:bike. I thought it had a resemblance, though not quite identical to the disc
:braked 2013 Litespeed 'cross bike on their website which is similarly clean
:and without canti brake bosses. After a second look, you seem to be doing
:without a rear brake. I suppose that in wet and possibly icy winter
:conditions you prefer anticipation and an entirely adequate front brake
:rather than full on panic stops.

It's a pretty bike. But winter is one of the few times I make use of
a rear brake. On loose stuff, I find the front will skid before
there's enough weight transfer to unload the rear wheel, and best
braking comes from using both brakes.



--
sig 114

On 19/09/2013 02:46, David Scheidt wrote:
Peter Howard wrote:

:All is clear now about the history of your latest Rohloff hubbed winter
:bike. I thought it had a resemblance, though not quite identical to the disc
:braked 2013 Litespeed 'cross bike on their website which is similarly clean
:and without canti brake bosses. After a second look, you seem to be doing
:without a rear brake. I suppose that in wet and possibly icy winter
:conditions you prefer anticipation and an entirely adequate front brake
:rather than full on panic stops.

It's a pretty bike. But winter is one of the few times I make use of
a rear brake. On loose stuff, I find the front will skid before
there's enough weight transfer to unload the rear wheel, and best
braking comes from using both brakes.

All the bikes Lou listed have brakes on both wheels.

Clive George wrote:
On 19/09/2013 02:46, David Scheidt wrote:
Peter Howard wrote:

All is clear now about the history of your latest Rohloff hubbed
winter bike. I thought it had a resemblance, though not quite
identical to the disc braked 2013 Litespeed 'cross bike on their
website which is similarly clean and without canti brake bosses.
After a second look, you seem to be doing without a rear brake. I
suppose that in wet and possibly icy winter conditions you prefer
anticipation and an entirely adequate front brake rather than full
on panic stops.

It's a pretty bike. But winter is one of the few times I make use of
a rear brake. On loose stuff, I find the front will skid before
there's enough weight transfer to unload the rear wheel, and best
braking comes from using both brakes.

All the bikes Lou listed have brakes on both wheels.

The winter bike with the Rohloff appears to have one brake only, on the
front. See Lou's Picasa album of the build.
https://picasaweb.google.com/1010765...iDkNq 66Ii4EA
PH

On 19/09/2013 04:22, Peter Howard wrote:
Clive George wrote:
On 19/09/2013 02:46, David Scheidt wrote:
Peter Howard wrote:

All is clear now about the history of your latest Rohloff hubbed
winter bike. I thought it had a resemblance, though not quite
identical to the disc braked 2013 Litespeed 'cross bike on their
website which is similarly clean and without canti brake bosses.
After a second look, you seem to be doing without a rear brake. I
suppose that in wet and possibly icy winter conditions you prefer
anticipation and an entirely adequate front brake rather than full
on panic stops.

It's a pretty bike. But winter is one of the few times I make use of
a rear brake. On loose stuff, I find the front will skid before
there's enough weight transfer to unload the rear wheel, and best
braking comes from using both brakes.

All the bikes Lou listed have brakes on both wheels.

The winter bike with the Rohloff appears to have one brake only, on the
front. See Lou's Picasa album of the build.
https://picasaweb.google.com/1010765...iDkNq 66Ii4EA

Ah, I only looked at the second list. Mmm, what does sms think of
drilling the stays then? :-)

Op donderdag 19 september 2013 03:46:56 UTC+2 schreef David Scheidt:
Peter Howard wrote:



:All is clear now about the history of your latest Rohloff hubbed winter

:bike. I thought it had a resemblance, though not quite identical to the disc

:braked 2013 Litespeed 'cross bike on their website which is similarly clean

:and without canti brake bosses. After a second look, you seem to be doing

:without a rear brake. I suppose that in wet and possibly icy winter

:conditions you prefer anticipation and an entirely adequate front brake

:rather than full on panic stops.



It's a pretty bike. But winter is one of the few times I make use of

a rear brake. On loose stuff, I find the front will skid before

there's enough weight transfer to unload the rear wheel, and best

braking comes from using both brakes.







--

sig 114

If it wasn't for redundancy I can do without a rear brake on any bike used on paved roads. Anticipation, steering skills and common sense will do. On this bike I only need a very reliable brake because if it fails I have to walk/call home. In the 7 years I used this setup now I got so confident in the Hope mini's hydraulic disk brake that I even think about having only one brake.
I only NEED a rear brake off road on steep descents.

Lou

On Sunday, September 15, 2013 10:58:16 PM UTC-7, James wrote:
My poor ol' Sanyo Dynapower is getting a bit long in the tooth. The

bearings and bushes are wearing out. It makes a bit more noise than it

used to, despite me lubricating the moving parts. I suspect it's days

are numbered.



So I ordered a PV-8 http://www.sp-dynamo.com/8seriesdynamo%20hub.html

from the UK. Don't expect an Australian supplier to have something like

this, or if it is available locally it's sure to be double the price!

90 GBP, minus VAT, plus shipping made it 86 GBP = 146 AUD.



It seems to be reasonably light, has sealed bearings, and "class

leading" efficiency and performance. I've also read that the vibrations

are minimal.



So when it arrives I'll order some spokes to build a wheel using one of

my 2 Mavic OpenPro Ceramic rims - the one that's currently laced to the

Mavic hub. The other is laced to a Miche hub, that I currently use

every time I go for a ride. It'll become the daylight only spare wheel.



The flange looks pretty beefy. I hope it can take a radial spoke

pattern, so I can have a pair of front wheels with radial spokes. I

just like the look, and provided the hub can handle it, see no need to

cross the spokes.



--

JS

Any further news to report on the Shutter Precision hub? My son left his Kona Dew Drop behind, and I'm thinking of outfitting it with a dyno hub and an approved headlight. Then I can rant about how wonderful/un-wonderful it is.

Do we have consensus on the recommended light?

-- Jay Beattie.

On Thursday, October 10, 2013 2:06:15 PM UTC-4, Jay Beattie wrote:

Do we have consensus on the recommended light?

Consensus?? On RBT??

I'd go to Peter White's site and look at beam shots, etc.

My B&M IQ Cyo is a few years old, and there are supposedly better (and worse) lights that have come out since I bought it. But I really, really like this light. The lower cost B&M Lyt is adequate for most of my riding, but I'm sure you wouldn't like it. Other LED units I've tried on "secondary" bikes (e.g. something called RSP from Raleigh in the UK) are not worth having, IMO. OK only as "be seen" lights.

But once again, Jay: You live in Portland. Some of these must be used and sold there. Wouldn't you be best served by finding a person using one and riding with him? That's what I'd try to do.

- Frank Krygowski

On Thursday, October 10, 2013 1:06:15 PM UTC-5, Jay Beattie wrote:
Any further news to report on the Shutter Precision hub? My son left his Kona Dew Drop behind, and I'm thinking of outfitting it with a dyno hub and an approved headlight. Then I can rant about how wonderful/un-wonderful it is.

Do we have consensus on the recommended light?

-- Jay Beattie.

Light. For the most light, and money, go with the Supernova E3 triple light. About $210.
http://www.starbike.com/p/Supernova-...-light-5330-en

For a very adequate light, go with the B&M IQ Cyo. About $55.
http://www.starbike.com/en/busch-and...umotec-iq-cyo/

Starbike also sells the Shimano 3NH80 or something dynamo hub for about $80 in 32 hole. DT rim for about $50. $25 building fee. And you have a dynamo wheel and light for about $250 with shipping.