Lezyne Deca Drive 1500XXL Report

With all the rain, last week was the first time we were out at night and
I got to see the Lezyne Deca Drive 1500XXL
http://www.lezyne.com/product-led-perf-deca1500xxl.php in action on my
wife's commute bike.

Every time I looked in the mirror I thought that there was a car behind
me. This is because she still had her 1300 lumen 4C light on her
handlebars as well, even though I told her to leave it at home. The two
lights looked about equally bright (The Lezyne light was measured my a
reviewer at 1390 lumens, there is no independent measurement of the
Duracell light, but they probably don't lie as much as some of the
lights coming in from China).

This is really an incredible light for the price (now about $92). There
are very few lights with this level of output, that don't have fake
lumen claims, and that are all-in-one (no separate battery pack), that
are not plastic, and that are less than $100. We were off of the unlit
MUP before it got completely dark, but I have no doubt that it would
been sufficient. I think that I have finally convinced my wife to give
up her 4C 1300 lumen light. C cells were getting to be more than our
electric bill.

On the negative side, the Lezyne light doesn't come on and off as easily
as the 4C 1300 lumen light with my custom mount, and it does not have an
adjustable spot/flood beam. The mount is also not able to be adjusted
for slightly curved handlebars, like the custom mounts I have made for C
and AA diameter flashlights.

https://www.probikekit.com/cycling-a.../11170762.html
10% discount for first order.

On 2017-02-20 12:41, sms wrote:
With all the rain, last week was the first time we were out at night and
I got to see the Lezyne Deca Drive 1500XXL
http://www.lezyne.com/product-led-perf-deca1500xxl.php in action on my
wife's commute bike.

Every time I looked in the mirror I thought that there was a car behind
me. This is because she still had her 1300 lumen 4C light on her
handlebars as well, even though I told her to leave it at home. The two
lights looked about equally bright (The Lezyne light was measured my a
reviewer at 1390 lumens, there is no independent measurement of the
Duracell light, but they probably don't lie as much as some of the
lights coming in from China).

This is really an incredible light for the price (now about $92). There
are very few lights with this level of output, that don't have fake
lumen claims, and that are all-in-one (no separate battery pack), that
are not plastic, and that are less than $100. We were off of the unlit
MUP before it got completely dark, but I have no doubt that it would
been sufficient. I think that I have finally convinced my wife to give
up her 4C 1300 lumen light. C cells were getting to be more than our
electric bill.

On the negative side, the Lezyne light doesn't come on and off as easily
as the 4C 1300 lumen light with my custom mount, and it does not have an
adjustable spot/flood beam. The mount is also not able to be adjusted
for slightly curved handlebars, like the custom mounts I have made for C
and AA diameter flashlights.

https://www.probikekit.com/cycling-a.../11170762.html

10% discount for first order.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oBVnyCbVL4g

I get that kind of light from MagicShine clones for around $20 each, one
on the road bike and one on the MTB. However, I spread the beam
horizontally with diffusor disks by simply swapping lenses, something
that would be difficult to do on this Lezyne light.

The big issue with such integrated lights is battery runtime. 2h on high
mode isn't adequate for many riders such as myself. It would mean no
more light for the 2nd half of the ride. So I have larger central
batteries, one is 4x 18650 Li-Ion and the other is 8x. Nice thing is,
then rear lights can be tied in a well.

The other question is battery exhaustion. Unless it's standard 18650
cells they'll probably make you pay beaucoup bucks for new batteries,
hoping you can still get them 5-10 years later.

Oh, regarding plastic, these MagicShine clones are sturdy aluminum. My
MTB had a hard unplanned upside-down landing where the front light
smacked onto the ground with the bike on top of it. Other than
scratches, nada, it was still lit there in the dirt. I was more banged
up than the light.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

On 2/20/2017 1:18 PM, Joerg wrote:

snip

The big issue with such integrated lights is battery runtime. 2h on high
mode isn't adequate for many riders such as myself. It would mean no
more light for the 2nd half of the ride. So I have larger central
batteries, one is 4x 18650 Li-Ion and the other is 8x. Nice thing is,
then rear lights can be tied in a well.

Yes, this is true. But for the S.O. she's not going to deal with
detaching multiple pieces and wires when she parks her bike outside her
office.

2 hours is about 2x her commute time, and she would only need it on
maximum power for the multi-use trail section of her commute (part of
which is now under water apparently).

On 2017-02-21 10:15, sms wrote:
On 2/20/2017 1:18 PM, Joerg wrote:

snip

The big issue with such integrated lights is battery runtime. 2h on high
mode isn't adequate for many riders such as myself. It would mean no
more light for the 2nd half of the ride. So I have larger central
batteries, one is 4x 18650 Li-Ion and the other is 8x. Nice thing is,
then rear lights can be tied in a well.

Yes, this is true. But for the S.O. she's not going to deal with
detaching multiple pieces and wires when she parks her bike outside her
office.


Yes, that is a general problem with essential bicycle parts.
Manufacturers fail to integrate stuff even though it would be easy.


2 hours is about 2x her commute time, and she would only need it on
maximum power for the multi-use trail section of her commute (part of
which is now under water apparently).


Interesting. The MUP is where I turn my lights off or at least dim the
front light down. Traffic lanes and bike lanes are where the ship is
always fully lit. Two rear lights and one bright front light. On county
roads and in rowdy city traffic at full bore which is around 8W.

My main gripe with most comercial lights is the narrow focus. I want to
be able to see to the side, like when a squirrel or cat is about to jump
into my path. A wide-angle beam is also better for being seen.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

On 2/21/2017 10:32 AM, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-02-21 10:15, sms wrote:
On 2/20/2017 1:18 PM, Joerg wrote:

snip

The big issue with such integrated lights is battery runtime. 2h on high
mode isn't adequate for many riders such as myself. It would mean no
more light for the 2nd half of the ride. So I have larger central
batteries, one is 4x 18650 Li-Ion and the other is 8x. Nice thing is,
then rear lights can be tied in a well.

Yes, this is true. But for the S.O. she's not going to deal with
detaching multiple pieces and wires when she parks her bike outside her
office.


Yes, that is a general problem with essential bicycle parts.
Manufacturers fail to integrate stuff even though it would be easy.


2 hours is about 2x her commute time, and she would only need it on
maximum power for the multi-use trail section of her commute (part of
which is now under water apparently).


Interesting. The MUP is where I turn my lights off or at least dim the
front light down. Traffic lanes and bike lanes are where the ship is
always fully lit. Two rear lights and one bright front light. On county
roads and in rowdy city traffic at full bore which is around 8W.

Those MUPs are very dark. As we get older, and our night vision worsens,
we need more light.

My main gripe with most comercial lights is the narrow focus. I want to
be able to see to the side, like when a squirrel or cat is about to jump
into my path. A wide-angle beam is also better for being seen.

Yes, those narrowly focused beams are not ideal for bicycle lights.

The StVZO bicycle lighting standard was written by non-cyclists and was
designed to force cyclists to subject themselves to increased danger by
requiring the use of sub-optimal bicycle lighting systems.

On 2017-02-21 10:48, sms wrote:
On 2/21/2017 10:32 AM, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-02-21 10:15, sms wrote:
On 2/20/2017 1:18 PM, Joerg wrote:

snip

The big issue with such integrated lights is battery runtime. 2h on
high
mode isn't adequate for many riders such as myself. It would mean no
more light for the 2nd half of the ride. So I have larger central
batteries, one is 4x 18650 Li-Ion and the other is 8x. Nice thing is,
then rear lights can be tied in a well.

Yes, this is true. But for the S.O. she's not going to deal with
detaching multiple pieces and wires when she parks her bike outside her
office.


Yes, that is a general problem with essential bicycle parts.
Manufacturers fail to integrate stuff even though it would be easy.


2 hours is about 2x her commute time, and she would only need it on
maximum power for the multi-use trail section of her commute (part of
which is now under water apparently).


Interesting. The MUP is where I turn my lights off or at least dim the
front light down. Traffic lanes and bike lanes are where the ship is
always fully lit. Two rear lights and one bright front light. On county
roads and in rowdy city traffic at full bore which is around 8W.

Those MUPs are very dark. As we get older, and our night vision worsens,
we need more light.


True, at night it should be on. Though I rarely use full brightness on
MUP because there is a 15mph speed limit anyhow except on the Folsom
South Canal path. Some others lack signage so I assume technically one
could ride faster.


My main gripe with most comercial lights is the narrow focus. I want to
be able to see to the side, like when a squirrel or cat is about to jump
into my path. A wide-angle beam is also better for being seen.

Yes, those narrowly focused beams are not ideal for bicycle lights.

The StVZO bicycle lighting standard was written by non-cyclists and was
designed to force cyclists to subject themselves to increased danger by
requiring the use of sub-optimal bicycle lighting systems.


I never quite adhered to that even while living there. Mainly because I
wanted real light.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

On Tuesday, February 21, 2017 at 1:50:48 PM UTC-5, sms wrote:
Snipped
Yes, those narrowly focused beams are not ideal for bicycle lights.

Snipped

So says the guy who for years was hawking Chineze flashlights come bicycle lights that had a very bright spot on the road and a very narrow beam.

For a nice beam that will do what Joerg wants he should look into CygoLite products. Made in the United States and have a great life and good waranty and excellent customer service.

Cheers

On Monday, February 20, 2017 at 1:18:37 PM UTC-8, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-02-20 12:41, sms wrote:
With all the rain, last week was the first time we were out at night and
I got to see the Lezyne Deca Drive 1500XXL
http://www.lezyne.com/product-led-perf-deca1500xxl.php in action on my
wife's commute bike.

Every time I looked in the mirror I thought that there was a car behind
me. This is because she still had her 1300 lumen 4C light on her
handlebars as well, even though I told her to leave it at home. The two
lights looked about equally bright (The Lezyne light was measured my a
reviewer at 1390 lumens, there is no independent measurement of the
Duracell light, but they probably don't lie as much as some of the
lights coming in from China).

This is really an incredible light for the price (now about $92). There
are very few lights with this level of output, that don't have fake
lumen claims, and that are all-in-one (no separate battery pack), that
are not plastic, and that are less than $100. We were off of the unlit
MUP before it got completely dark, but I have no doubt that it would
been sufficient. I think that I have finally convinced my wife to give
up her 4C 1300 lumen light. C cells were getting to be more than our
electric bill.

On the negative side, the Lezyne light doesn't come on and off as easily
as the 4C 1300 lumen light with my custom mount, and it does not have an
adjustable spot/flood beam. The mount is also not able to be adjusted
for slightly curved handlebars, like the custom mounts I have made for C
and AA diameter flashlights.

https://www.probikekit.com/cycling-a.../11170762.html

10% discount for first order.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oBVnyCbVL4g

I get that kind of light from MagicShine clones for around $20 each, one
on the road bike and one on the MTB. However, I spread the beam
horizontally with diffusor disks by simply swapping lenses, something
that would be difficult to do on this Lezyne light.

The big issue with such integrated lights is battery runtime. 2h on high
mode isn't adequate for many riders such as myself. It would mean no
more light for the 2nd half of the ride. So I have larger central
batteries, one is 4x 18650 Li-Ion and the other is 8x. Nice thing is,
then rear lights can be tied in a well.

The other question is battery exhaustion. Unless it's standard 18650
cells they'll probably make you pay beaucoup bucks for new batteries,
hoping you can still get them 5-10 years later.

Oh, regarding plastic, these MagicShine clones are sturdy aluminum. My
MTB had a hard unplanned upside-down landing where the front light
smacked onto the ground with the bike on top of it. Other than
scratches, nada, it was still lit there in the dirt. I was more banged
up than the light.


I don't get the need for a 1,000 real-lumen light on MUPs and roads. I have to deal with other cyclists who use those kinds of lights on MUPs/cycletracks, and they're blinding -- and not in just some whiny way. I can't see where I'm f****** going because someone has a search light in my face. I yell at these people, although I want to stop and beat them to the ground. I don't care what people use on single-track -- assuming it's not a busy single-track -- but on roads, 1300 lumens with the typical spew (can't say what the Barry Beams is like) is rude. The only thing worse are the people with high-lumen flashers.

Another odd problem with high lumen lights is that they are easily confused with somewhat more distant car lights. It's hard to explain, but in places, it actually makes the bike less visible to on-coming cyclists and cars. I am convinced that the best light for urban riding is a shaped-beam (not necessarily StVZO) 700-800 lumen for seeing the road and a low-watt flasher -- maybe one watt LED that pulses or has a reasonable, non-seizure inducing flash.

-- Jay Beattie.

On 2017-02-21 11:15, Sir Ridesalot wrote:

[...]

For a nice beam that will do what Joerg wants he should look into
CygoLite products. Made in the United States and have a great life
and good waranty and excellent customer service.


I've already got what I want. Two sturdy aluminum-body lights with Cree
XM-L in there plus a diffusor lens each. Less than $20 and the one on
the MTB has seen its share of crashes, rock hits, mud, et cetera. Even a
4h ride all in the rain didn't bother it.

Without diffusor lens they blind other people so I didn't even ride down
our driveway before the mod. Looks like this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5J9zIGTfgGw

The rear lights are also as bright as those on a motorcycle. Double
lighting on the road bike. Actually triple because there is a bottle
dynamo with another independent set of lights in case the power bus fails.

When the front rim is up I am going to look into a wheel with a hub
dynamo so I can ride with a smaller Li-Ion battery.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

On 2017-02-21 11:46, jbeattie wrote:
On Monday, February 20, 2017 at 1:18:37 PM UTC-8, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-02-20 12:41, sms wrote:
With all the rain, last week was the first time we were out at
night and I got to see the Lezyne Deca Drive 1500XXL
http://www.lezyne.com/product-led-perf-deca1500xxl.php in
action on my wife's commute bike.

Every time I looked in the mirror I thought that there was a car
behind me. This is because she still had her 1300 lumen 4C light
on her handlebars as well, even though I told her to leave it at
home. The two lights looked about equally bright (The Lezyne
light was measured my a reviewer at 1390 lumens, there is no
independent measurement of the Duracell light, but they probably
don't lie as much as some of the lights coming in from China).

This is really an incredible light for the price (now about $92).
There are very few lights with this level of output, that don't
have fake lumen claims, and that are all-in-one (no separate
battery pack), that are not plastic, and that are less than $100.
We were off of the unlit MUP before it got completely dark, but I
have no doubt that it would been sufficient. I think that I have
finally convinced my wife to give up her 4C 1300 lumen light. C
cells were getting to be more than our electric bill.

On the negative side, the Lezyne light doesn't come on and off as
easily as the 4C 1300 lumen light with my custom mount, and it
does not have an adjustable spot/flood beam. The mount is also
not able to be adjusted for slightly curved handlebars, like the
custom mounts I have made for C and AA diameter flashlights.

https://www.probikekit.com/cycling-a.../11170762.html



10% discount for first order.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oBVnyCbVL4g

I get that kind of light from MagicShine clones for around $20
each, one on the road bike and one on the MTB. However, I spread
the beam horizontally with diffusor disks by simply swapping
lenses, something that would be difficult to do on this Lezyne
light.

The big issue with such integrated lights is battery runtime. 2h on
high mode isn't adequate for many riders such as myself. It would
mean no more light for the 2nd half of the ride. So I have larger
central batteries, one is 4x 18650 Li-Ion and the other is 8x. Nice
thing is, then rear lights can be tied in a well.

The other question is battery exhaustion. Unless it's standard
18650 cells they'll probably make you pay beaucoup bucks for new
batteries, hoping you can still get them 5-10 years later.

Oh, regarding plastic, these MagicShine clones are sturdy aluminum.
My MTB had a hard unplanned upside-down landing where the front
light smacked onto the ground with the bike on top of it. Other
than scratches, nada, it was still lit there in the dirt. I was
more banged up than the light.


I don't get the need for a 1,000 real-lumen light on MUPs and roads.
I have to deal with other cyclists who use those kinds of lights on
MUPs/cycletracks, and they're blinding -- and not in just some whiny
way. I can't see where I'm f****** going because someone has a search
light in my face. I yell at these people, although I want to stop and
beat them to the ground. I don't care what people use on single-track
-- assuming it's not a busy single-track -- but on roads, 1300 lumens
with the typical spew (can't say what the Barry Beams is like) is
rude. The only thing worse are the people with high-lumen flashers.


The mistake that most cyclists and manufacturers make is to use a pointy
beam. The beam needs to be broadened horizontally just like car
headlights do that. Unfortunately there are only two ways to accomplish
this.

1. Buy a StVZO light. Very expensive, weak in light output, much too
harsh bright-dark border vertically.

2. Buy a sturdy 1000+ lumen light and an after-market diffusor lens. The
latter costs five bucks and works great.

I chose solution #2.


Another odd problem with high lumen lights is that they are easily
confused with somewhat more distant car lights.


That's just the purpose :-)


... It's hard to
explain, but in places, it actually makes the bike less visible to
on-coming cyclists and cars.


I did have car drivers hit the brakes hard because they must have
thought I am on a motorcycle. Oh well.


... I am convinced that the best light for
urban riding is a shaped-beam (not necessarily StVZO) 700-800 lumen
for seeing the road and a low-watt flasher -- maybe one watt LED that
pulses or has a reasonable, non-seizure inducing flash.


If you have both it works. However, at night a flashing front light is
too annoying for others. Also, I want to be able to see far enough into
the road even while barreling down a down-sloping road at 30-40mph.

Good bicycle lights have two settings. Mine is usually set to half
power. It only goes to full power on county roads and such. There, other
cyclists are on the other side. I also use full power while in the city
if I find out that too many drivers are inattentive or disrespectful.
Then I make myself seen.

One of my lights has a flash mode but I never use that mode. I would in
an emergency, like when trying to get traffic to notice an accident
scene or flooding.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/