#11
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Light works
On 29/08/14 09:55, Joerg wrote:
James wrote: On 29/08/14 08:27, Joerg wrote: Europeans use hub dynamos a lot. It would be possible but difficult on my mountain bike because it has a serious disc brake up front. I'd be ok with a central Li-Ion battery if some company made a better holder than those flimsy Velcro thingies. Maybe take a look here... http://www.sp-dynamo.com/8Xseriesdynamo%20hub.html When I win the lottery :-) Is it really that much? I think Schmidt and Sons in Germany makes something like this but then you be looking at 100 Euros plus labor. I really don't like to do spokes. Have done it but hated it. Mine (SP PV-8) was about $150AUD delivered. Ah, c'mon, front wheel spokes are easy. I'd rather have a central battery where you can get a ton of capacity at same weight. Then the bike can power lights and other gear even at standstill, like during breaks. For example, when a friend discovered a cave we were able to take the light off my bike and crawl in. I know, I know, thou shalt not do that ... I'll raise your tonne of capacity for, well, infinite capacity while the wheels keep turning ;-) For night rides on the MTB, I'd take a strap on head torch. BTW, most good dynamo headlights have a stand light that keeps the light going for 4-5 minutes at half strength when you stop. If it runs out, spin the front wheel a few times to charge the internal capacitor again. The lights I've seen were all plastic and/or on skinny brackets, those on the Lumotec lights would never survive. I need something that will survive even if a rock the size of a fist smacks to it. Happens a lot. Like Tuesday, barreled down a trail to get home, front wheel squished off a rock that size, it ricocheted from somewhere ... *KANGGG* ... smack-dab between my right foot and crank. I stopped and it was still cradled there. Took a chunk out of the crank and my shoe. Earlier this summer one ricocheted off and crashed into the handlebar. Then there's the rocks kicked up by other riders. And the occasional thick Manzanita branch. The IQ-Tec Premium light I use has a heavy steel bracket and sturdy body. http://www.xxcycle.com/busch-and-muller-cyo-premium-front-light-iq-tec-p-80-lux-1752qsndi-04,,en.php That's the ones I had seen. On a mountain bike there is really nothing you could fasten it do, you'd have to buy or build a clamp bracket. This kind of U-shape carrier will not hold up, it'll get bent real soon. This then.. http://www.starbike.com/en/son-edelux-2-led-front-lamp/ The enclosure itself needs to be metal, aircraft aluminum or something similar. I've even broken ABS. http://www.starbike.com/p/Supernova-...QaAqq58 P8HAQ My MTBing must be very tame. I haven't broken anything for ages. Maybe I'm just more careful. -- JS |
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#12
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Light works
wrote:
ugh the dynamo devils no no no http://www.coloradocyclist.com/bike-...systems?page=3 400 bucks for a lamp? Are they kidding? I thought about stuff like this: http://www.amazon.com/Best-Rechargea...=bicycle+light Then a battery pack like this but preferably bigger: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MPEJ2X0?psc=1 This kind is even brighter but too dangerous for MTB riders because of the sharp fins: http://www.amazon.com/Lumen-Cycling-...YKSCTYQQG0WYP0 The tail light would probably have to come from a motorcycle store because I haven't found any really good ones for bicycles. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ |
#13
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Light works
On Thursday, August 28, 2014 5:20:33 PM UTC-7, James wrote:
On 29/08/14 09:55, Joerg wrote: James wrote: On 29/08/14 08:27, Joerg wrote: Europeans use hub dynamos a lot. It would be possible but difficult on my mountain bike because it has a serious disc brake up front. I'd be ok with a central Li-Ion battery if some company made a better holder than those flimsy Velcro thingies. Maybe take a look here... http://www.sp-dynamo.com/8Xseriesdynamo%20hub.html When I win the lottery :-) Is it really that much? I think Schmidt and Sons in Germany makes something like this but then you be looking at 100 Euros plus labor. I really don't like to do spokes. Have done it but hated it. Mine (SP PV-8) was about $150AUD delivered. Ah, c'mon, front wheel spokes are easy. I'd rather have a central battery where you can get a ton of capacity at same weight. Then the bike can power lights and other gear even at standstill, like during breaks. For example, when a friend discovered a cave we were able to take the light off my bike and crawl in. I know, I know, thou shalt not do that ... I'll raise your tonne of capacity for, well, infinite capacity while the wheels keep turning ;-) For night rides on the MTB, I'd take a strap on head torch. BTW, most good dynamo headlights have a stand light that keeps the light going for 4-5 minutes at half strength when you stop. If it runs out, spin the front wheel a few times to charge the internal capacitor again. The lights I've seen were all plastic and/or on skinny brackets, those on the Lumotec lights would never survive. I need something that will survive even if a rock the size of a fist smacks to it. Happens a lot.. Like Tuesday, barreled down a trail to get home, front wheel squished off a rock that size, it ricocheted from somewhere ... *KANGGG* ... smack-dab between my right foot and crank. I stopped and it was still cradled there. Took a chunk out of the crank and my shoe. Earlier this summer one ricocheted off and crashed into the handlebar. Then there's the rocks kicked up by other riders. And the occasional thick Manzanita branch. The IQ-Tec Premium light I use has a heavy steel bracket and sturdy body. http://www.xxcycle.com/busch-and-muller-cyo-premium-front-light-iq-tec-p-80-lux-1752qsndi-04,,en.php That's the ones I had seen. On a mountain bike there is really nothing you could fasten it do, you'd have to buy or build a clamp bracket. This kind of U-shape carrier will not hold up, it'll get bent real soon. This then.. http://www.starbike.com/en/son-edelux-2-led-front-lamp/ The enclosure itself needs to be metal, aircraft aluminum or something similar. I've even broken ABS. http://www.starbike.com/p/Supernova-...QaAqq58 P8HAQ My MTBing must be very tame. I haven't broken anything for ages. Maybe I'm just more careful. -- JS I would think the bigger issue(s) on a mountain bike would be (1) electric wire fatigue with suspension forks, (2) axle and internal failures on big hit bikes, (3) no stand light, and (4) less options for a bright light (SuperNova is about it apart from some of the Chinese products). I really wonder how much beating the internals can take -- maybe it's a lot.. I don't do a lot of trail riding at night, but my choice would be a light that works when the bike is stopped and that I can use to see my wounds. -- Jay Beattie. |
#14
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Light works
On 8/28/2014 9:06 PM, jbeattie wrote:
I would think the bigger issue(s) on a mountain bike would be (1) electric wire fatigue with suspension forks, (2) axle and internal failures on big hit bikes, (3) no stand light, and (4) less options for a bright light (SuperNova is about it apart from some of the Chinese products). I really wonder how much beating the internals can take -- maybe it's a lot. I don't do a lot of trail riding at night, but my choice would be a light that works when the bike is stopped and that I can use to see my wounds. I guess one can always hypothesize unsolvable problems. 1) Wire fatigue is eminently controllable through fairly simple design. After all, off-road motorcycles do have wires. 2) Front axles break... really, how often? 3) Tons of modern LED headlights feature standlights. 4) How much light do we really need anyway? As I've said before, if the "more is always necessary" rationale for headlights were applied to other bicycle equipment, we'd all be on motorcycle spokes and tires. Bicycle design is about efficiency and elegance, except for most headlights. Then it switches to sledgehammer mentality. -- - Frank Krygowski |
#15
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Light works
On 29/08/14 11:06, jbeattie wrote:
I would think the bigger issue(s) on a mountain bike would be (1) electric wire fatigue with suspension forks, We seem to be able to make brake hoses and ABS wheel speed sensors that handle off road terrain on 4WD motor vehicles. I don't see why a reasonably well made cable with armour shouldn't be possible to survive MTB applications. (2) axle and internal failures on big hit bikes, A problem for any hub, but yes would be a problem leaving you in the dark, perhaps. The one I linked to is made specifically for HD MTB riding. (3) no stand light, Key? Many dynamo lights have stand light feature, and as I said, I'd carry a head torch as well anyway. and (4) less options for a bright light (SuperNova is about it apart from some of the Chinese products). Uh, bright lights are not even difficult to roll your own, but there are others... http://www.theunknownrider.com/2012/...-light-review/ I really wonder how much beating the internals can take -- maybe it's a lot. I don't do a lot of trail riding at night, but my choice would be a light that works when the bike is stopped and that I can use to see my wounds. I wonder how much beating a battery can take? I remember my sealed lead-acid battery powered light failed because the battery fell apart inside - and that was road only use! -- JS |
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Light works
Joerg wrote:
wrote: http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_112922/article.html So when do bike accessory manufacturers finally wake up and build something like this? Why do things take so long with bicycles? Until now all the lights I've tried and seen are between "barely bright enough" and utter junk. B&M Luxos U is looking pretty good so far, although I haven't taken it out for a night ride yet and I'm still wrestling with mounting. |
#17
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Light works
On 29/08/14 13:18, Ralph Barone wrote:
Joerg wrote: wrote: http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_112922/article.html So when do bike accessory manufacturers finally wake up and build something like this? Why do things take so long with bicycles? Until now all the lights I've tried and seen are between "barely bright enough" and utter junk. B&M Luxos U is looking pretty good so far, although I haven't taken it out for a night ride yet and I'm still wrestling with mounting. I reckon my IQ-Tec Premium 80Lux model *looks* similar brightness to a motorbike low beam. -- JS |
#18
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Light works
Joerg schreef op 29-8-2014 0:27:
Frank Krygowski wrote: On Thursday, August 28, 2014 12:58:45 PM UTC-4, Joerg wrote: wrote: http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_112922/article.html So when do bike accessory manufacturers finally wake up and build something like this? Why do things take so long with bicycles? Until now all the lights I've tried and seen are between "barely bright enough" and utter junk. Some of us use hub dynamos and good quality LED headlights. My utility bike has a Shimano hub dynamo and a Busch & Muller headlight. It gives me plenty of light. It does a great job of illuminating the road, with a nice even beam, and I can see it illuminating stop signs nearly a quarter mile away. The setup isn't cheap. I paid about $65 for the hub, and the headlight was a $100 Christmas gift. (I built up the wheel myself.) But I don't expect to have to replace the setup for the next ten years. To me, it's worth the expense. Certainly, it would be cheaper if it were standard equipment on every bike; but we have to face the facts, that most people in westernized countries use bikes as daytime toys. They wouldn't want to spend the money for a headlight they'd seldom or never use. While this is a road bike, last week I used it after dark to inspect some work we'd recently done in our local forest preserve. I don't know whether it would work on a wooded off-road trail at 25 mph, but it allowed me to do fine on the single track trails I was riding at much lower speed. Europeans use hub dynamos a lot. It would be possible but difficult on my mountain bike because it has a serious disc brake up front. I'd be ok with a central Li-Ion battery if some company made a better holder than those flimsy Velcro thingies. The lights I've seen were all plastic and/or on skinny brackets, those on the Lumotec lights would never survive. I need something that will survive even if a rock the size of a fist smacks to it. Happens a lot. Like Tuesday, barreled down a trail to get home, front wheel squished off a rock that size, it ricocheted from somewhere ... *KANGGG* ... smack-dab between my right foot and crank. I stopped and it was still cradled there. Took a chunk out of the crank and my shoe. Earlier this summer one ricocheted off and crashed into the handlebar. Then there's the rocks kicked up by other riders. And the occasional thick Manzanita branch. You have to realize that your commute route is far from usual. Lou |
#19
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Light works
Frank Krygowski schreef op 29-8-2014 3:52:
On 8/28/2014 9:06 PM, jbeattie wrote: I would think the bigger issue(s) on a mountain bike would be (1) electric wire fatigue with suspension forks, (2) axle and internal failures on big hit bikes, (3) no stand light, and (4) less options for a bright light (SuperNova is about it apart from some of the Chinese products). I really wonder how much beating the internals can take -- maybe it's a lot. I don't do a lot of trail riding at night, but my choice would be a light that works when the bike is stopped and that I can use to see my wounds. I guess one can always hypothesize unsolvable problems. 1) Wire fatigue is eminently controllable through fairly simple design. After all, off-road motorcycles do have wires. 2) Front axles break... really, how often? 3) Tons of modern LED headlights feature standlights. 4) How much light do we really need anyway? I think a roadbike with 8 bar inflated 23 mm wide tires on Belgium cobblestones take a lot more beating than a ATB with 2.5 inch wide nobby tires with front suspension. Lou |
#20
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Light works
On Thursday, August 28, 2014 11:42:20 PM UTC-7, Lou Holtman wrote:
Frank Krygowski schreef op 29-8-2014 3:52: On 8/28/2014 9:06 PM, jbeattie wrote: I would think the bigger issue(s) on a mountain bike would be (1) electric wire fatigue with suspension forks, (2) axle and internal failures on big hit bikes, (3) no stand light, and (4) less options for a bright light (SuperNova is about it apart from some of the Chinese products). I really wonder how much beating the internals can take -- maybe it's a lot. I don't do a lot of trail riding at night, but my choice would be a light that works when the bike is stopped and that I can use to see my wounds. I guess one can always hypothesize unsolvable problems. 1) Wire fatigue is eminently controllable through fairly simple design. After all, off-road motorcycles do have wires. 2) Front axles break... really, how often? 3) Tons of modern LED headlights feature standlights. 4) How much light do we really need anyway? I think a roadbike with 8 bar inflated 23 mm wide tires on Belgium cobblestones take a lot more beating than a ATB with 2.5 inch wide nobby tires with front suspension. Maybe, but most of us don't ride on Belgian cobbles -- and look at what they do to road bikes. Paris Roubaix is littered with broken parts. I don't know if a hub dynamo is a good thing on a mountain bike and defer to those who use them. Personally, I wouldn't bother with one because of all the wiring and additional crap on my bike that would get infrequent use, being that night trail riding is not something I would do often. A battery light would be a more reasonable option, and I could simply shift a light from my road bike for trail riding. I also wonder whether a dynamo would put out enough light when I was picking my way up forested single track at 4mph. It seems to add so much complexity without a real pay-off. The calculus is different on a commuter that gets a lot of night time use. -- Jay Beattie. |
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