#1
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Spoke Questions
Hello,
I've built myself a set of tandem wheels (26" Bontrager Clyde Rims 36h, 14g DT spokes and Phil Wood tandem hubs). I have two concerns. 1) The spoke tension seems quite high. There is a little flex left in the spokes but feels much tighter than any wheel I've ever built before. Is there an easy way to test it? 2) How short is too short when it comes to spoke length? I'm assuming that perfect length the spoke would be long enough to reach the bottom of the screwdriver slot in the nipple. Thanks in advance! Maurice Miller |
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#2
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Spoke Questions
"Bike Camano" wrote in message ... Hello, I've built myself a set of tandem wheels (26" Bontrager Clyde Rims 36h, 14g DT spokes and Phil Wood tandem hubs). I have two concerns. 1) The spoke tension seems quite high. There is a little flex left in the spokes but feels much tighter than any wheel I've ever built before. Is there an easy way to test it? The only way the spoke would be too tight would be if there was too much windup when trying to tighten the spoke, you're rounding off the nipple or if the wheel tacos from over-tension. It doesn't sound like you have any of these conditions so you're probably fine. You won't break spokes from too much tension. Remember to properly stress-relieve the wheels and you should be good to go. 2) How short is too short when it comes to spoke length? I'm assuming that perfect length the spoke would be long enough to reach the bottom of the screwdriver slot in the nipple. Actually, pefect for me is exactly flush with the high point of the nipple, or the top, not the bottom, of the slot. However, bottom is pretty good as well. How short is too short?? Well, I've built wheels with threads showing below DT nipples, but I haven't felt good about it. The wheels didn't have any problems, but that doesn't mean you won't have any. Maybe the guy I built them for was lighter, softer on his wheels, low mileage etc. In the immortal words of my mentor, if a job's worth doing, it's worth doing right. So if you're not somewhere between the bottom and top of the nipple slot, think about replacing them. Thanks in advance! Maurice Miller Good luck, Scott.. |
#3
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Spoke Questions
S. Anderson wrote: The only way the spoke would be too tight would be if there was too much windup when trying to tighten the spoke, you're rounding off the nipple or if the wheel tacos from over-tension. Depending on your definition of "too much windup", you *can* get a spoke too tight. I ran into this recently when I was trying to retrue a wheel after replacing a couple of spokes. At one point, further tightening of the drive side spoke resulted in the rim moving the *opposite* direction. This elicited the classic "huh?" response, then I realiized that I must have exceeded the spokes' maximum tension and they were beginning to elongate. Probably not much further and they would have popped. I backed off and since I'd bought a bag of spokes anyway, re-spoked the entire drive side and started over. As stated in The Bicycle Wheel, the post stress-relief taco warning only applies to rims up to a certain strength. Heavier/stronger rims can be tensioned past the spoke's limit. I was working on a T-520. |
#4
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Spoke Questions
S. Anderson wrote:
"Bike Camano" wrote in message ... Hello, I've built myself a set of tandem wheels (26" Bontrager Clyde Rims 36h, 14g DT spokes and Phil Wood tandem hubs). I have two concerns. 1) The spoke tension seems quite high. There is a little flex left in the spokes but feels much tighter than any wheel I've ever built before. Is there an easy way to test it? The only way the spoke would be too tight would be if there was too much windup when trying to tighten the spoke, you're rounding off the nipple or if the wheel tacos from over-tension. It doesn't sound like you have any of these conditions so you're probably fine. You won't break spokes from too much tension. Remember to properly stress-relieve the wheels and you should be good to go. You can get them so tight that they pull out of the rim or the rim stress cracks around the holes (the last is typically a Mavic problem). If you don't have access to a tensiometer I'd go to Sheldon's page and in the wheel building section there's a link to a page that gives the musical note that's approximately the pitch that the spoke should give when plucked -- it'll let you know if you're in the ballpark. But, on the good side, if you're basing your concern on machine built wheels -- they're almost always undertensioned. Another thing that you could do is if you LBS has someone who builds a lot of wheels, they'll usually be happy to give you an opinion . David |
#5
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Spoke Questions
bikecameo- I've built myself a set of tandem wheels (26" Bontrager Clyde Rims
36h, 14g DT spokes and Phil Wood tandem hubs). I have two concerns. 1) The spoke tension seems quite high. There is a little flex left in the spokes but feels much tighter than any wheel I've ever built before. Is there an easy way to test it? BRBR 'Easiest' is to take it to a bike shop and have them check with a tensionometer... 2) How short is too short when it comes to spoke length? I'm assuming that perfect length the spoke would be long enough to reach the bottom of the screwdriver slot in the nipple. BRBR All the threads of the spoke should be engeged by the threads of the nipple... Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St. Boulder, CO, 80302 (303)440-3535 http://www.vecchios.com "Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene" |
#6
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#7
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Spoke Questions
Thanks to all who replied!
I rebuilt the wheel with longer (now perfect length) spokes and the tension (unscientific feel method) feels more in line with the other trouble free wheels I've built in the past. Hopefully I didn't do any damage to the hub or rim with the original build. It was never ridden Thanks again! Maurice Miller |
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