Pulling Octalink cranks

I've a standard cyclo crank puller and on of those Shimano tophat tools to
allow it to pull octalink cranks.

I've noticed that when the tophat is installed in the axle it stands proud
and stops the puller body engaging all the threads in the crank arm (I can
see 4 threads on the puller body outside of the arm rather than 2 when it's
fully engaged).

I know that the threads in the arms are delicate and I was wondering whether
this might be a problem, is the crank puller body meant to fit around the
tophat rather that push against it, do I need a new puller?

PJay wrote:
I've a standard cyclo crank puller and on of those Shimano tophat tools to
allow it to pull octalink cranks.

I've noticed that when the tophat is installed in the axle it stands proud
and stops the puller body engaging all the threads in the crank arm (I can
see 4 threads on the puller body outside of the arm rather than 2 when it's
fully engaged).

I know that the threads in the arms are delicate and I was wondering whether
this might be a problem, is the crank puller body meant to fit around the
tophat rather that push against it, do I need a new puller?

I've got the Park octalink crank extractor, but I've never used it. All
that's needed is a long 8mm allen wrench and some elbow grease, since
Shimano made it so that you can pull the cranks using the
self-extracting dust caps. This is how I extract my Dura Ace 7701
cranks. I lube everything well with anti-seize compound when I
re-assemble it, and, so far, no problems.

Hi,

The Deore M510 cranks that I have don't have single key release crank bolts
so do need pulling.

"Mike Krueger" wrote in message
oups.com...

PJay wrote:
I've a standard cyclo crank puller and on of those Shimano tophat tools
to
allow it to pull octalink cranks.

I've noticed that when the tophat is installed in the axle it stands
proud
and stops the puller body engaging all the threads in the crank arm (I
can
see 4 threads on the puller body outside of the arm rather than 2 when
it's
fully engaged).

I know that the threads in the arms are delicate and I was wondering
whether
this might be a problem, is the crank puller body meant to fit around the
tophat rather that push against it, do I need a new puller?

I've got the Park octalink crank extractor, but I've never used it. All
that's needed is a long 8mm allen wrench and some elbow grease, since
Shimano made it so that you can pull the cranks using the
self-extracting dust caps. This is how I extract my Dura Ace 7701
cranks. I lube everything well with anti-seize compound when I
re-assemble it, and, so far, no problems.

PJay wrote:
Hi,

The Deore M510 cranks that I have don't have single key release crank bolts
so do need pulling.

Use the little plug that come with the crank, go to a bike shop for one
if this is on a new bike. A cut off piece of axle works well
also-inside the BB spindle, opposite crank bolt on, use a normal crank
puller.

Qui si parla Campagnolo wrote:
PJay wrote:
Hi,

The Deore M510 cranks that I have don't have single key release
crank bolts so do need pulling.

Use the little plug that come with the crank, go to a bike shop for
one if this is on a new bike. A cut off piece of axle works well
also-inside the BB spindle, opposite crank bolt on, use a normal crank
puller.

Hey cool trick. But why does the opposite crank bolt need to be on?

--
Phil, Squid-in-Training

To keep the axle from pushing right out the other end?

Llatikcuf wrote:
To keep the axle from pushing right out the other end?

Whoops, I didn't read carefully and forgot that this was an Octalink BB.
--
Phil, Squid-in-Training