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Need expert help
Want to buy a new bike, one of those mid-age dudes that have been out
of it for a long time. Yesterday, I rode a Trek 7300 and a Cannondale adventure 3 and liked both of them. When I got on the Cannondale however, it just "felt right" and I really liked the way it handled.....had a more durable feel to it and a more foregiving frame? What I didn't like about it was the lousy shift system. The Trek's was perfect -- just a click, and you're in gear. The Cannondale had all these different places where it "maybe" was in gear etc and noise along with it. My question is this -- What Cannondale model should I look at that's pretty much an adventure 3 but with a more precise (shimano?) gear shift mechanism? Also, the Cannondale had disc brakes -- out to lunch on that -- what is the lowdown on disc vs conventional brakes? Thanks kindly for any help -- I want to get something before the end of the week. (Also -- rode a Giant cypress, didn't care for it). |
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#2
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Need expert help
On Apr 30, 8:55 am, "Bill Sornson" wrote:
mkr5000 wrote: Want to buy a new bike, one of those mid-age dudes that have been out of it for a long time. Yesterday, I rode a Trek 7300 and a Cannondale adventure 3 and liked both of them. When I got on the Cannondale however, it just "felt right" and I really liked the way it handled.....had a more durable feel to it and a more foregiving frame? What I didn't like about it was the lousy shift system. The Trek's was perfect -- just a click, and you're in gear. The Cannondale had all these different places where it "maybe" was in gear etc and noise along with it. My question is this -- What Cannondale model should I look at that's pretty much an adventure 3 but with a more precise (shimano?) gear shift mechanism? Also, the Cannondale had disc brakes -- out to lunch on that -- what is the lowdown on disc vs conventional brakes? Thanks kindly for any help -- I want to get something before the end of the week. (Also -- rode a Giant cypress, didn't care for it). Tell the shop manager that you're interested in the C'dale, but its shifting was lousy. If he or she is on the ball, the bike will be tuned up in four minutes. HTH, Bill S. Yea, it's probably just a matter of adjusting the shifters. In my experience, every new shift system, when properly adjusted (and it's not hard) shifts better than any shift system from the old days. Doesn't matter the brand. |
#3
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Need expert help
Yeah, I told them to look at it and call me so I culd try it again..
We'll see if they take me seriously. It was the 1 through 3 shifter on the left -- when it was between 2 and 3 it would create alot of noist on the front sprocket. I'll have to see if that smooth Trek shifter is available on a similar Cannondale. The difference was night and day....just a lttle black lever that would click...on the Cannondale, no lever, just move the handlegrip. |
#4
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Need expert help
On Apr 30, 10:41 am, mkr5000 wrote:
Want to buy a new bike, one of those mid-age dudes that have been out of it for a long time. Yesterday, I rode a Trek 7300 and a Cannondale adventure 3 and liked both of them. When I got on the Cannondale however, it just "felt right" and I really liked the way it handled.....had a more durable feel to it and a more foregiving frame? What I didn't like about it was the lousy shift system. The Trek's was perfect -- just a click, and you're in gear. The Cannondale had all these different places where it "maybe" was in gear etc and noise along with it. My question is this -- What Cannondale model should I look at that's pretty much an adventure 3 but with a more precise (shimano?) gear shift mechanism? The shifters can be adjusted to work better, just takes a minute or two to align the mechanism under the rear of the cogset using the barrel adjuster. If you prefer trigger shifters, those are available in a model that would work for that bike: http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/product.a...S¤cy=USD I'm not too hip to disc brakes on road going bikes, though I can understand the arguments for in Portland and for areas folks have mentioned that have road surfaces that destroy rims--they're mainly just a gee-whiz selling point. Inexpensive linear pull brakes work better than most folks need. That said, if the 'dale speaks to you, get it. In defense of the Trek, with the boring old linear pull brakes and compliment of mounts, it'll take racks, fenders, and the like, so as you get in shape, you can turn it into your utility bike and upgrade to a higher zoot exercise model. |
#5
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Need expert help
mkr5000 wrote: I want to get something before the end of the week. Ahem... not a good strategy. Best to look longer, ride a few more. You haven't tried the comparably priced Bianchi's, the Redlines, the Raleighs. There are a lot of good machines out there. And there are some considerations you haven't gotten too... tire size and fender compatibility are biggies. Everybody laughs at fenders until they have to clean their drive-train. Tire size is WAY more important than disk brakes. You ought to ride something that has a Shimano 8 speed hub before you settle on a derailleur... |
#6
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Need expert help
On Apr 30, 4:13 pm, Will wrote:
mkr5000 wrote: I want to get something before the end of the week. Ahem... not a good strategy. Best to look longer, ride a few more. You haven't tried the comparably priced Bianchi's, the Redlines, the Raleighs. There are a lot of good machines out there. And there are some considerations you haven't gotten too... tire size and fender compatibility are biggies. Everybody laughs at fenders until they have to clean their drive-train. Tire size is WAY more important than disk brakes. You ought to ride something that has a Shimano 8 speed hub before you settle on a derailleur... Way true. And don't forget used. I'm a big fan of the $500 new bike-- you get a lot of service and start fresh, but for more expensive bikes, the deals on Craigslist are incredible--then pay a shop to dial it in. That's what they make their money on anyway. |
#7
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Need expert help
In article ,
mkr5000 writes: It was the 1 through 3 shifter on the left -- when it was between 2 and 3 it would create alot of noist on the front sprocket. That could be normal -- just a bad chainline. Extreme chain angles, especially between the outermost (smallest) rear sprocket and the innermost front chainring, can make an horrible grinding noise, which often comes in part from the chain rubbing against one side of the front derailer cage, but also from the slanted chain trying to pull itself off the individual cogs. That particular gear ratio can be obtained more pleasantly & relatively silently with your middle chainring and one of your in-between rear sprockets. The bikes you test-rode no doubt come with a setup known as crossover gearing, in which certain front chainring/rear sprocket combinations are duplicated, but whichever of those duplicates keeps the chain the straightest is the more preferable choice, and extreme chain angles are best avoided. If you're interested, here's a good tutorial on bicycle gearing arrangements and effects: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gear-theory.html The geometries of some bike frames can handle extreme chain angles better than others, but as I say, extreme chain angles are still best avoided. You can still get the same front/rear gear ratio with other combinations that keep the chain straighter. Although my preference currently lies with friction (smooth-moving, non-clicky) thumbshifters, I've always liked the convenient ease with which slightly out-of-tune Twist Grips can make the chain fall into place by fudging them a little between and beyond their clicks. The downside of Twist Grips is: unintended shifting by flexing your wrist for whatever reasons other than shifting. I also find Twist Grips too noisy -- by clicking so loudly, they tip my hand as to my intentions in impromptu, friendly li'l races with fellow riders on the street ;-) cheers, Tom -- Nothing is safe from me. I'm really at: tkeats curlicue vcn dot bc dot ca |
#8
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Need expert help
Tom Keats wrote: The geometries of some bike frames can handle extreme chain angles better than others... A good reason to test a Shimano 8 speed hub... Why fuss with cogs when you can always run a good line, always have positive shifts, and easily cover (4 oz. plastic chain guard) the drive-train... The downside of Twist Grips is: unintended shifting... Twists are good for cold weather commuting. It's tough to shift rapid- fires with mittens. |
#9
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Need expert help
The main thing that I need to figure out is the type of bike I need.
I really intend to take it on urban streets, which have their share of bumps and grinds, as much as I'll try to avoid them. I don't see myself doing the nice paved bike trails that we have here throughout the city -- although I'm sure I'll spend time there as well. I first decided to get something when I saw this "comfort" bike, a Giant Sedona that someone was riding and was amazed at the difference between now and the many years ago I was on a bike......shocks, a seat suspension, big tires etc. And that's my major concern -- Tire size and the ability to give me a comfortable ride on the streets of Indianapolis. So based on that, do I stay with one specific style of bike? ......Do I always look at what's classified a "comfort" bike, with the sturdier frames and larger tires? The Trek 7300 and that Cannondale adventure I don't think fall into that classification, although I can see if you can avoid hitting crap, they would be a joy to ride. I want something easy to ride also so maybe the wide tires will make me work harder? I probably need to get somewhere with a great selection and just spend half a day test riding. |
#10
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Need expert help
On May 1, 9:50 am, mkr5000 wrote:
The main thing that I need to figure out is the type of bike I need. I really intend to take it on urban streets, which have their share of bumps and grinds, as much as I'll try to avoid them. I don't see myself doing the nice paved bike trails that we have here throughout the city -- although I'm sure I'll spend time there as well. I first decided to get something when I saw this "comfort" bike, a Giant Sedona that someone was riding and was amazed at the difference between now and the many years ago I was on a bike......shocks, a seat suspension, big tires etc. And that's my major concern -- Tire size and the ability to give me a comfortable ride on the streets of Indianapolis. So based on that, do I stay with one specific style of bike? ......Do I always look at what's classified a "comfort" bike, with the sturdier frames and larger tires? The Trek 7300 and that Cannondale adventure I don't think fall into that classification, although I can see if you can avoid hitting crap, they would be a joy to ride. I want something easy to ride also so maybe the wide tires will make me work harder? Nah, ya want something with a decent amount of cush that's still skinny and light enough to not be piggy. Most of the world figgured this out a long time ago--the same tire dimensions you see on touring bikes and British 3 speeds is really a great compromise, around 32-37mm. That said, if you want to start fatter, tires are relatively inexpensive to switch out. Bikes in the "comfort" and "hybrid" categories usually come with rather nasty tires when it comes to ride feel, usually erring on durability. If you've not felt the difference, wait a while before spoiling yourself, but it can mean a couple miles per hour. Suspension forks and posts are pointless on the road for most of us, you'll soon learn to lift your bum over bumps, avoid them--if possible, but if you like a bike with them--by all means, knock yourself out. I probably need to get somewhere with a great selection and just spend half a day test riding. Both those bikes could work out, though those of us that have been riding a while would probably tire of the very upright position of the Trek, and use the adjustable stem to lower the bars. The cockpit of the Cannondale's rather nice--but perhaps a bit hunched if your'e getting back into the saddle. You want some weight over the front end for control, but take your time getting there if your back is not used to it--thus a good reason for adjustable angle stems to exist. Go ride a bunch more--that's probably the best bet. |
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