new chain... lube?

I know this has been done to death, but just curious if anyone has any
favorite (or favourite) lube methods out there, or even techniques to do
it right/best.

I just got a new chain, and a new rear derailleur, (and got a new BB
while I was at it, not that it matters) and I have totally de-greased
and cleaned my crankset & rings, cassette, and front derailleur. So the
whole drive train is clean and dry, save for the chain, which has the
factory lube on it (Shimano HG-CN53 chain).

So, I'm thinking I want to use a dry lube, since I live in Los Angeles,
and the bike rarely sees mud any more (this is my mtb, btw, not my road
bike). Isn't that the rule of thumb, a dry lube for dry climates, and a
wet lube for wet climates? Or is it the other way around?

Anyway, either way I go, should I degrease the chain of its factory lube
first? Isn't there some method also where you soak the chain, submerged
in a pan of lube? I think I heard of heating it too?

Any suggestions appreciated...
-KC

kc wrote:
Anyway, either way I go, should I degrease the chain of its factory lube
first? Isn't there some method also where you soak the chain, submerged
in a pan of lube? I think I heard of heating it too?

Any suggestions appreciated...
-KC

While you may not technically need to remove the packing grease on a
chain - it may function adequately as a lube for some time - I always
remove the packing grease as it always tends to yield dirty, grimy
results that are ugly and not likely good in the long run.

I use citrus cleaner/solvent from the local natural foods store. I drink
lots of 2 liter soda water so I use the bottles from that. I put maybe 1
inch of straight citrus solvent in the bottle, lower the chain in, screw
on the cap and shake vigorously. I shake many times. You will see the
solvent change color quickly. I then remove the chain, allow the solvent
to settle, pour off the less dirty solvent into another bottle for the
next time, and save the gunk for proper disposal at a later time. This
is the same technique I use for cleaning a dirty chain.

You can drip dry the chain, blow with compressed air, etc to remove any
remaining solvent. Then apply the lube of your choice.

goto

www.sheldonbrown.com/chains.html

Best Regards - Mike Baldwin

kc wrote:
I know this has been done to death, but just curious if anyone has any
favorite (or favourite) lube methods out there, or even techniques to
do it right/best.

I just got a new chain, and a new rear derailleur, (and got a new BB
while I was at it, not that it matters) and I have totally de-greased
and cleaned my crankset & rings, cassette, and front derailleur. So
the whole drive train is clean and dry, save for the chain, which has
the factory lube on it (Shimano HG-CN53 chain).

So, I'm thinking I want to use a dry lube, since I live in Los
Angeles, and the bike rarely sees mud any more (this is my mtb, btw,
not my road bike). Isn't that the rule of thumb, a dry lube for dry
climates, and a wet lube for wet climates? Or is it the other way
around?

A dry lube works better in a dry climate than a wet climate, but it won't
lubricate as well as a wet one. A wet lube will get dirtier, though, even
in a dry climate. There is no perfect answer.

Anyway, either way I go, should I degrease the chain of its factory
lube first?

If you want to use a wax lube, yes, thoroughly degrease the chain to give
the wax a chance to stick and stay relatively clean and dry.

If you are eventually going to use an oily lube, no, just wipe the excess
factory lube off the outside, then ride it as it is until further
lubrication or cleaning is needed.

Isn't there some method also where you soak the chain,
submerged in a pan of lube? I think I heard of heating it too?

There are various weird and not-so-wonderful methods for DIY waxing and
greasing, but do you really want to get into all that?

~PB

On Sun, 5 Oct 2008 04:06:22 +0200, Pete Biggs wrote:

kc wrote:
I know this has been done to death, but just curious if anyone has any
favorite (or favourite) lube methods out there, or even techniques to
do it right/best.

I just got a new chain, and a new rear derailleur, (and got a new BB
while I was at it, not that it matters) and I have totally de-greased
and cleaned my crankset & rings, cassette, and front derailleur. So
the whole drive train is clean and dry, save for the chain, which has
the factory lube on it (Shimano HG-CN53 chain).

So, I'm thinking I want to use a dry lube, since I live in Los
Angeles, and the bike rarely sees mud any more (this is my mtb, btw,
not my road bike). Isn't that the rule of thumb, a dry lube for dry
climates, and a wet lube for wet climates? Or is it the other way
around?

A dry lube works better in a dry climate than a wet climate, but it won't
lubricate as well as a wet one. A wet lube will get dirtier, though, even
in a dry climate. There is no perfect answer.


Yes there is.

Enclosure.

Somebody wrote:

There is no perfect answer.


Yes there is.
Enclosure.

I'm unaware of a chain case for derailer drivetrains, I'm sure it's been
done.

Maybe Fogel Labs has an example?

Best Regards - Mike Baldwin

Michael Baldwin wrote:
Somebody wrote:

There is no perfect answer.


Yes there is.
Enclosure.

I'm unaware of a chain case for derailer drivetrains, I'm sure it's been
done.

Maybe Fogel Labs has an example?

Kettlers have the best I've seen, not fully enclosed though

http://bikepark.com.pl/uploads/image...-rad_src_1.jpg

I think it's Dogs way of telling you to get a Rohloff.

On Sun, 05 Oct 2008 14:06:05 +0100, Tosspot
wrote:

Michael Baldwin wrote:
Somebody wrote:

There is no perfect answer.


Yes there is.
Enclosure.

I'm unaware of a chain case for derailer drivetrains, I'm sure it's been
done.

Maybe Fogel Labs has an example?

Kettlers have the best I've seen, not fully enclosed though

http://bikepark.com.pl/uploads/image...-rad_src_1.jpg

I think it's Dogs way of telling you to get a Rohloff.

Dear Frank,

That's the same chain guard or fender (not really a case) used on the
bike built for President Eisenhower, shown in Berto's "Dancing Chain":
http://i33.tinypic.com/mraao2.jpg

Like the tire fenders in the picture, the chain guard doesn't keep the
chain clean. It just keeps the oily chain from brushing the rider's
leg and throwing muddy rain onto his shoe and pants-leg.

Leg guards were common on highwheelers, looking like gigantic thorn
catchers, but they're often hidden by the rider's legs or hard to see
because they follow the lines of the tire and backbone so closely:
http://www.hochrad.info/hochradbilde...oner200gif.gif
http://www.hochrad.info/hochradbilde...ttel200gif.gif

Same kind of highwheeler trouser guard, seat missing:
http://www.hochrad.info/hochradbilde...ing-saddle.jpg
http://www.hochrad.info/hochradbilde...schoner150.jpg

Highwheeler leg guards are more noticeable in real life. Once you know
about them, you'll start seeing them in many photos.

Intead of wire-rods lef guards, some highwheelers like the early
Victors used a deep-flange or skirted saddle to keep the trousers out
of the huge wheel, like the one in the upper right corner:
http://www.goldenoldy.org/case1.jpg

Another example of the deep-flange highwheeler seat:

http://www.thewheelmen.org/sections/...ghwheel17v.jpg

An 1886 Victor highwheeler with the skirted saddle, from Adams's
"Collecting and Restoring Antique Bicycles":
http://i33.tinypic.com/2ngevf4.jpg

If you've never seen a highwheeler seat up close, it's worth the
trouble, even without a skirted saddle design. They're enormous and
complicated contraptions, about twice the size of modern bicycle
seats, with adjustable elevating and tension rods. Compared to the
originals, the modern Brooks saddles look like ponies standing next to
Clydesdales.

Getting back to newfangled derailleurs, here's an ambitious chain
guard from the 1950s, shown in "The Data Book":
http://i34.tinypic.com/15gw4yo.jpg

Of course, fully enclosed derailleur chains are commonplace in some
circles.

Here are the two halves of a derailleur chain case:
http://www.ohpv.org/albums/bm2004/va...s/varnas19.htm

Here the two halves of the chain-case are being assembled:
http://www.ohpv.org/albums/bm2004/va...s/varnas14.htm

A typical enclosed 4-speed derailleur for short commutes in Nevada:
http://www.ohpv.org/albums/bm2004/va...s/varnas16.htm

Cheers,

Carl Fogel

kc wrote:
I know this has been done to death, but just curious if anyone has any
favorite (or favourite) lube methods out there, or even techniques to do
it right/best.

My favorite is a 50/50 mix of oil and mineral spirits. Wipe off
chain... wait a few hours for solvent to dry, then wipe again. Spray
some generic "Pledge" on a paper towel and wipe the chain off. Reapply
"Pledge" after every ride or two, and relube with oil and mineral
spirits when needed... about every 1000 miles for me. Your chain will
stay pretty clean... and smell great!

someone wrote:

I know this has been done to death, but just curious if anyone has
any favorite (or favourite) lube methods out there, or even
techniques to do it right/best.

I just got a new chain, and a new rear derailleur, (and got a new BB
while I was at it, not that it matters) and I have totally
de-greased and cleaned my crankset & rings, cassette, and front
derailleur. So the whole drive train is clean and dry, save for the
chain, which has the factory lube on it (Shimano HG-CN53 chain).

So, I'm thinking I want to use a dry lube, since I live in Los
Angeles, and the bike rarely sees mud any more (this is my MTB, BTW,
not my road bike). Isn't that the rule of thumb, a dry lube for dry
climates, and a wet lube for wet climates? Or is it the other way
around?

Anyway, either way I go, should I degrease the chain of its factory
lube first? Isn't there some method also where you soak the chain,
submerged in a pan of lube? I think I heard of heating it too?

Any suggestions appreciated...

Look in the FAQ first if you think it's been asked often.

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/chain-care.html

Jobst Brandt