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replacing 1980's rear wheel with a modern wheel
I intercepted my in-law's bike on the way to a yard sale. It's
basically a clone mtb circa 1985. The bike is in reasonable shape, except the rear wheel. It has seen its share of abuse. There are 3 spots of zero treads on an otherwise good tire (original?), and the wheel can't be trued. The rear bearings has a bit of grind to it. It looks like someone took it out for some rough riding and curb hopping. I've been out of biking for a couple of decades. It seems that now there are two types of gear clusters- the "freewheel" from the 80's, and a newer cassette design. The mtb I inherited has a Shimano MF-HG20 cluster/freewheel. Can I drop a modern wheel into the bike and expect it to work? Will there be a gear tooth spacing that can cause problems? |
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#2
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replacing 1980's rear wheel with a modern wheel
Veggie wrote:
I intercepted my in-law's bike on the way to a yard sale. It's basically a clone mtb circa 1985. Can I drop a modern wheel into the bike and expect it to work? Will there be a gear tooth spacing that can cause problems? It' do-able. You can take the old freewheel off and put it on a new freewheel hub wheel or get a new cassette type wheel. Only problem with the latter option might be chain and chainwheel wear. |
#3
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replacing 1980's rear wheel with a modern wheel
Derek Hodges wrote:
It' do-able. You can take the old freewheel off and put it on a new freewheel hub wheel or get a new cassette type wheel. Only problem with the latter option might be chain and chainwheel wear. Does that mean that Shimano doesn't make a cassette that is compatible with their old freewheels? (compatible from the chain's perspective) |
#4
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replacing 1980's rear wheel with a modern wheel
Is it index or friction shift? Even the early index is switchable to
friction fwiw. I'd grab a new wheel, 8sp cassette, and a fresh chain, and it should shift nicely. |
#5
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replacing 1980's rear wheel with a modern wheel
Friction shift, Shimano SIS. Good advice, I plan to go cheap for a
while until I figure out what I want to do long term. maxo wrote: Is it index or friction shift? Even the early index is switchable to friction fwiw. I'd grab a new wheel, 8sp cassette, and a fresh chain, and it should shift nicely. |
#6
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replacing 1980's rear wheel with a modern wheel
Veggie wrote:
I intercepted my in-law's bike on the way to a yard sale. It's basically a clone mtb circa 1985. The bike is in reasonable shape, except the rear wheel. It has seen its share of abuse. There are 3 spots of zero treads on an otherwise good tire (original?), and the wheel can't be trued. The rear bearings has a bit of grind to it. It looks like someone took it out for some rough riding and curb hopping. I've been out of biking for a couple of decades. It seems that now there are two types of gear clusters- the "freewheel" from the 80's, and a newer cassette design. The mtb I inherited has a Shimano MF-HG20 cluster/freewheel. Can I drop a modern wheel into the bike and expect it to work? Will there be a gear tooth spacing that can cause problems? How many cogs are on the old freewheel? Older MTBs had narrower back hubs and the frame was spaced to match. Your frame might have to stretch a bit to accept a new wheel. If the frame is steel, the stretching is no problem. See http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_sp-ss.html#spacing for details on rear hub width and http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_cn-z.html#coldset for a few more words about spreading your frame. Other than that, I think Bob's your uncle. -- Dave dvt at psu dot edu |
#7
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replacing 1980's rear wheel with a modern wheel
dvt wrote:
Veggie wrote: I've been out of biking for a couple of decades. It seems that now there are two types of gear clusters- the "freewheel" from the 80's, and a newer cassette design. The mtb I inherited has a Shimano MF-HG20 cluster/freewheel. Can I drop a modern wheel into the bike and expect it to work? Will there be a gear tooth spacing that can cause problems? How many cogs are on the old freewheel? Older MTBs had narrower back hubs and the frame was spaced to match. Your frame might have to stretch a bit to accept a new wheel. If the frame is steel, the stretching is no problem. See http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_sp-ss.html#spacing for details on rear hub width and http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_cn-z.html#coldset for a few more words about spreading your frame. Other than that, I think Bob's your uncle. The old freewheel has six cogs in it. I'll try to put in a 7 cog cassette to minimize the stretching, or maybe get a 9 cog and remove a cog or two. |
#8
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replacing 1980's rear wheel with a modern wheel
Veggie wrote:
dvt wrote: Veggie wrote: Can I drop a modern wheel into the bike and expect it to work? Will there be a gear tooth spacing that can cause problems? How many cogs are on the old freewheel? Older MTBs had narrower back hubs and the frame was spaced to match. Your frame might have to stretch a bit to accept a new wheel. If the frame is steel, the stretching is no problem. See http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_sp-ss.html#spacing for details on rear hub width and http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_cn-z.html#coldset for a few more words about spreading your frame. The old freewheel has six cogs in it. I'll try to put in a 7 cog cassette to minimize the stretching, or maybe get a 9 cog and remove a cog or two. 6-speed hubs are spaced 126 mm, 7-speed MTB hubs are spaced 130 mm. You should be able to stuff a 7-speed wheel in there if the frame is steel. It might be a pain to take the wheel in and out when you have a flat, but it will work just fine once you get the wheel in. You can't just take a couple of cogs off a 9-speed wheel and make it fit. The hub will remain the same width (135 mm, too wide to stuff into your frame comfortably). That's true of cassette and freewheel hubs; your 6-speed is likely a freewheel hub, while a new 7-speed will probably be a cassette hub (a.k.a. freehub). My advice: find a decent bike shop and I'm sure they'll be able to round up an inexpensive 6-speed wheel for you. Then you won't have to worry about any of this. -- Dave dvt at psu dot edu |
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