brake levers, road bike, flat bar

I have put together a flat bar road bike with grip shifters and mountain
type brake levers. this setup is for my wife and she really likes the design
mainly because she has mastered the grip shift on the mountain bike and
doesn't have to go through a new learning process which can be tough on both
of us. One problem is that I don't feel the rear brake has enough power for
a safe emergency stop. I assume this is due to the type levers I am
using.The bike has standard type road bike brakes. Anyone have any
suggestions for this type setup the would give me more braking power.
I will at some time in the future transfer all these new parts to new
frame with big wheels, v-brakes and a flat bar but right now the this frame
fits her really well and I'd like to make this work for a year or two.

Thank you.
Joseph S.

On Sun, 20 Jul 2003 19:28:20 GMT, "Joseph S."
wrote:

The bike has standard type road bike brakes. Anyone have any
suggestions for this type setup the would give me more braking power.

If the bicycle currently has dual pivot brakes that are properly
setup, you will not beat the braking with direct pull brakes,
cantilevers, or other types. You might look at installing Kool Stop
salmon pads.

Joseph S. wrote:
I have put together a flat bar road bike with grip shifters and mountai=
n
type brake levers. this setup is for my wife and she really likes the d=
esign
mainly because she has mastered the grip shift on the mountain bike and=

doesn't have to go through a new learning process which can be tough on=
both
of us. One problem is that I don't feel the rear brake has enough power=
for
a safe emergency stop. I assume this is due to the type levers I am
using.The bike has standard type road bike brakes. Anyone have any
suggestions for this type setup the would give me more braking power.

You haven't made it clear which kind of brake levers you've got.=20
"Mountain bike" brake levers fall into two broad categories:

=95Older levers intended for center-pull cantilevers.

=95Newer levers made for direct-pull cantis, such as V-Brakes.

The older style levers will work just dandy with road calipers. If you=20
need a pair, we've got some really, really nice Ritchey units on=20
special, see: http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/brakes.html#leversup

New-style "direct pull" levers have the cable attachment twice as far=20
from the lever pivot, so they only pull half as hard on the cable as the =

older type. If you have used this type of lever, I wouldn't be=20
surprised if there's not much braking power..it takes a gorilla grip to=20
overcome the mismatch in cable travel.

Sheldon "Not A Gorilla" Brown
+--------------------------------------------------------+
| Happy Moon Landing Day to all! None of us should |
| be working today--we should all be celebrating the |
| most important event of the last millennium! |
+--------------------------------------------------------+
Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts
Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041
http://harriscyclery.com
Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide
http://captainbike.com http://sheldonbrown.com

I don't care how high priced or high end it is. The rear brake NEVER has
enough for an emergency stop (unless you're rolling backwards). This is
because, as you stop, your weight shifts forwards, onto the front wheel.

If you have to stop fast, shift your weight back and grip the front
brake. The rear brake is pretty much useless except for situations where
you don't want to take the chance of the front wheel sliding. Such as
when traction is questionable.

May you have the wind at your back.
And a really low gear for the hills!
Chris

Chris'Z Corner
"The Website for the Common Bicyclist":
http://www.geocities.com/czcorner

On Sun, 20 Jul 2003 , Sheldon Brown wrote:

need a pair, we've got some really, really nice Ritchey units on
special, see: http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/brakes.html#leversup

Wow - they still make those? I had a pair of those as OE on my '92
Cannondale (with XT thumbshifters). They look exactly the same.

Ed J. wrote:
On Sun, 20 Jul 2003 , Sheldon Brown wrote:

need a pair, we've got some really, really nice Ritchey units on
special, see: http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/brakes.html#leversup

Wow - they still make those? I had a pair of those as OE on my '92
Cannondale (with XT thumbshifters). They look exactly the same.

No, they don't still make them, but we bought a bunch of 'em on close
out. They were actually made for Ritchey by DiaCompe in Japan.

Sheldon "Cold Forged" Brown
+--------------------------------------------------------+
| Happy Moon Landing Day to all! None of us should |
| be working today--we should all be celebrating the |
| most important event of the last millennium! |
+--------------------------------------------------------+
Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts
Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041
http://harriscyclery.com
Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide
http://captainbike.com http://sheldonbrown.com

In article ,
Paul Kopit wrote:

On Sun, 20 Jul 2003 19:28:20 GMT, "Joseph S."
wrote:

The bike has standard type road bike brakes. Anyone have any
suggestions for this type setup the would give me more braking power.

If the bicycle currently has dual pivot brakes that are properly
setup, you will not beat the braking with direct pull brakes,
cantilevers, or other types. You might look at installing Kool Stop
salmon pads.

If you jam on your front brake and can throw yourself over the bar,
you have all the stopping power you need. And it doesn't matter
if you have dual-pivots or cantis. What you can't do with current
dual-pivot road brakes is get them around a 700x35 tire. (Not
counting long-reach, etc. here.)

Matt