crappy rubber cement?

Had a flat this morning (of course.. it's wet. not really a morning
to ride in in Sydney), and one backup tube had an existing leaky
patch.

Anyway..

I had to crack open a new tube of rubber cement to patch the tube, and
its taken me three goes to get the two patches to adhere properly (not
leak). I've never had this problem before.. usually get them fixed
first go.

I suspect my latest tube of el-cheapo rubber cement that came in a no-
name patch kit. It certainly doesn't smell as toxic as the stuff
usually does.

Anyone else had this problem before? Am I just imagining things?

(looking forward to the ride home in 30kn winds and driving rain.. not)

Duncan wrote:
Had a flat this morning (of course.. it's wet. not really a morning
to ride in in Sydney), and one backup tube had an existing leaky
patch.

Anyway..

I had to crack open a new tube of rubber cement to patch the tube, and
its taken me three goes to get the two patches to adhere properly (not
leak). I've never had this problem before.. usually get them fixed
first go.

I suspect my latest tube of el-cheapo rubber cement that came in a no-
name patch kit. It certainly doesn't smell as toxic as the stuff
usually does.

Anyone else had this problem before? Am I just imagining things?

Well, I don't know if this is relevant to you or not but tubes can
be made of different compounds. I've found that "shinier" tubes are
not as easy to fix for the reasons you give - the cement doesn't seem
to stick. Do you roughen the tube before gluing?

I seem to recall that tubes used to have a lot more rubber in them
and you could fix them with a vulcanising kit. I remember having one
as a kid where you clamped the tube to a little disk that had some
flammable material in it. You then set the thing a light (very easy
to do in wet and windy conditions) and it would transfer a patch onto
the tube. Don't think this can be done now.


(looking forward to the ride home in 30kn winds and driving rain.. not)


Come on, it's character building!

Enjoy,
DeF.


--
e-mail: d.farrow@your finger.murdoch.edu.au
To reply, you'll have to remove your finger.

On Jun 8, 5:12 pm, DeF ""d.farrow\"@your finger.murdoch.edu.au"
wrote:
Duncan wrote:
Had a flat this morning (of course.. it's wet. not really a morning
to ride in in Sydney), and one backup tube had an existing leaky
patch.

Anyway..

I had to crack open a new tube of rubber cement to patch the tube, and
its taken me three goes to get the two patches to adhere properly (not
leak). I've never had this problem before.. usually get them fixed
first go.

I suspect my latest tube of el-cheapo rubber cement that came in a no-
name patch kit. It certainly doesn't smell as toxic as the stuff
usually does.

Anyone else had this problem before? Am I just imagining things?

Well, I don't know if this is relevant to you or not but tubes can
be made of different compounds. I've found that "shinier" tubes are
not as easy to fix for the reasons you give - the cement doesn't seem
to stick. Do you roughen the tube before gluing?

yep.. lots of roughin up

I seem to recall that tubes used to have a lot more rubber in them
and you could fix them with a vulcanising kit. I remember having one
as a kid where you clamped the tube to a little disk that had some
flammable material in it. You then set the thing a light (very easy
to do in wet and windy conditions) and it would transfer a patch onto
the tube. Don't think this can be done now.

I often wondered what happened to those kits.. they certainly were
alot more effective for those quick on-the-road patch jobs (which I
try to avoid by carrying a couple of spare tubes).

At least I'm heading ENE tonight.. so should mostly be a tail wind
(unlike this morning).

Duncan wrote:

I often wondered what happened to those kits.. they certainly
were alot more effective for those quick on-the-road patch
jobs (which I try to avoid by carrying a couple of spare
tubes).

Vulcanising patches have gone the way of the dinosaurs. They
don't work on modern butyl rubber compounds.

John

On Fri, 08 Jun 2007 17:46:19 +1000, John Henderson wrote:

Vulcanising patches have gone the way of the dinosaurs. They
don't work on modern butyl rubber compounds.

I remember my Dad using them when I was a kid. I thought they
were banned for safety reasons.

--
Home page: http://members.westnet.com.au/mvw

Michael Warner wrote:

I remember my Dad using them when I was a kid. I thought they
were banned for safety reasons.

That could be another reason. I'm old enough to have used them
regularly, and found they didn't work any more sometime in the
70's. The butyl rubber explanation was given at the time.

John

John Henderson wrote:

Vulcanising patches have gone the way of the dinosaurs. They
don't work on modern butyl rubber compounds.

Also tended to leave a lumpy patch in your wheel. Worked great on
thronproof tubes though.

On 2007-06-08, DeF (aka Bruce)
was almost, but not quite, entirely unlike tea:
Duncan wrote:
I had to crack open a new tube of rubber cement to patch the tube, and
its taken me three goes to get the two patches to adhere properly (not
leak). I've never had this problem before.. usually get them fixed
first go.

I suspect my latest tube of el-cheapo rubber cement that came in a no-
name patch kit. It certainly doesn't smell as toxic as the stuff
usually does.

Anyone else had this problem before? Am I just imagining things?

Well, I don't know if this is relevant to you or not but tubes can
be made of different compounds. I've found that "shinier" tubes are
not as easy to fix for the reasons you give - the cement doesn't seem
to stick. Do you roughen the tube before gluing?

And you absolutely must wait for the glue to dry before applying the
patch, otherwise the reaction doesn't happen properly.

(looking forward to the ride home in 30kn winds and driving rain.. not)


Come on, it's character building!

It snowed up here today! I saw little flurry things fall out of the
sky! I've not seen that since I was 2, and even then, I'm not sure
whether it was actually snowing, or whether we just arrived on already
existing snow.

Not enough today to settle on the ground, but currently 3 degrees and
dropping.

I love this ****. It's raining, the kangaroos are happy, the grass is
happy, the resevoir is not dire. Mind you, I haven't yet pulled the
bike out of the observatory's car. Said car was covered in an inch of
frost/snow this morning when we packed up the telescope.

--
TimC
Sign on door of computing lecturer: "If your project is 90% right,
I will give you a distinction, your employer will fire you." -- Zebee

On Jun 8, 3:04 pm, Duncan wrote:
Had a flat this morning (of course.. it's wet. not really a morning
to ride in in Sydney), and one backup tube had an existing leaky
patch.

The vast majority of punctures I've had have been in the wet. I often
wonder if it's because I can't see little bits of potentially
puncturing debris as easily or the rain is washing/floating bits of
debris around more freely.

Then again, maybe it's something to do with the fact that I ride
through the really deep puddles for fun. There could be anything
hiding in there!

Graeme

Graeme Dods wrote:
On Jun 8, 3:04 pm, Duncan wrote:
Had a flat this morning (of course.. it's wet. not really a morning
to ride in in Sydney), and one backup tube had an existing leaky
patch.

The vast majority of punctures I've had have been in the wet. I often
wonder if it's because I can't see little bits of potentially
puncturing debris as easily or the rain is washing/floating bits of
debris around more freely.

Then again, maybe it's something to do with the fact that I ride
through the really deep puddles for fun. There could be anything
hiding in there!

Graeme


We had a thread on this recently and a number of theories were
suggested.

In the end, the consensus was that punctures in the wet were more
likely as water lubricates the glass/metal slicing into the tire.

DeF

--
e-mail: d.farrow@your finger.murdoch.edu.au
To reply, you'll have to remove your finger.