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tiagra 9 speed STI shifter maintenance
The right hand (ie rear derailleur) shifter sometimes fails to engage
the ratchet when I am downshifting (ie to a bigger cog). When I press the lever it just moves with minimal resistance and does nothing. Usually after a couple of pushes it engages and thern shifts ok but sometimes it takes longer. When it is stuck in this mode I can still upshift with the other paddle. I can occaisionally reproduce it on demand by randomly down and upshifting. Can anyone tell me if this is a common failure mode? Anyone care to offer any advice on stripping the shifter down? If I was to look for a second hand unit are theer any issues with mix and matching from the shimano range beyond appearance and number of cogs (is 9-speed compatible with anything else for shifting distance) tia james |
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tiagra 9 speed STI shifter maintenance
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tiagra 9 speed STI shifter maintenance
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tiagra 9 speed STI shifter maintenance
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tiagra 9 speed STI shifter maintenance
Qui si parla Campagnolo Wrote: wrote: The right hand (ie rear derailleur) shifter sometimes fails to engage the ratchet when I am downshifting (ie to a bigger cog). When I press the lever it just moves with minimal resistance and does nothing. Usually after a couple of pushes it engages and thern shifts ok but sometimes it takes longer. When it is stuck in this mode I can still upshift with the other paddle. I can occaisionally reproduce it on demand by randomly down and upshifting. Can anyone tell me if this is a common failure mode? It is, By pulling the big lever outbaord, the small lever shifts OK--very common. DON'T strip it down, you will never get it back together. make sure the inner witre/housing/BB guikde are smooth and clean. Flush the innards of the lever with a spray lube. If it is still bad-warranty(2 years) or replace. Another option is Campagnolo, levers and a rear der, that can be maintaned by taking them apart. Anyone care to offer any advice on stripping the shifter down? If I was to look for a second hand unit are theer any issues with mix and matching from the shimano range beyond appearance and number of cogs (is 9-speed compatible with anything else for shifting distance) tia james I'd just add to Peter's comment that those Campy ergo levers plus rear der will work just fine with Shimano 9 spd cassettes. I've used both 9 spd Ergo and 10 spd Ergo with Shimano 9 spd. I like the 10 spd a little better, but either one will work. Veloce derailer plus Veloce Ergo were less expensive than Shimano. For the front derailer use anything as the left Ergo shifter is not indexed. I ride with smallish (46 or 48 tooth) chainwheels so a Shimano mountain front works for me. Steve Shapiro -- Steve Shapiro |
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tiagra 9 speed STI shifter maintenance
I've had the exact same problem with my tiagra 9spd rear shifter James.
The problem occured within 6 months of new, generally i found it doesn't happen as much if i keep everything clean & change the gear cables say every 6 months. The shifter is now 3.5 years old and has got no worse. It happens very rarely now that i'm more on top of the maintenance. good luck :-) The Luggage wrote: wrote: The right hand (ie rear derailleur) shifter sometimes fails to engage the ratchet when I am downshifting (ie to a bigger cog). When I press the lever it just moves with minimal resistance and does nothing. Usually after a couple of pushes it engages and thern shifts ok but sometimes it takes longer. When it is stuck in this mode I can still upshift with the other paddle. I can occaisionally reproduce it on demand by randomly down and upshifting. Can anyone tell me if this is a common failure mode? Anyone care to offer any advice on stripping the shifter down? If I was to look for a second hand unit are theer any issues with mix and matching from the shimano range beyond appearance and number of cogs (is 9-speed compatible with anything else for shifting distance) As others have said, there's not much point trying to strip these things down. I've had a couple of sets of gear levers go in the same way. I think it's just the ratchets and pawls wearing out. Sometimes a good skoosh of lubricant will help for a while, but you'll need to start saving your pennies for a new one, I'm afraid. The Luggage |
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tiagra 9 speed STI shifter maintenance
Qui si parla Campagnolo wrote:
wrote: The right hand (ie rear derailleur) shifter sometimes fails to engage the ratchet when I am downshifting (ie to a bigger cog). When I press the lever it just moves with minimal resistance and does nothing. Usually after a couple of pushes it engages and thern shifts ok but sometimes it takes longer. When it is stuck in this mode I can still upshift with the other paddle. I can occaisionally reproduce it on demand by randomly down and upshifting. Can anyone tell me if this is a common failure mode? It is, By pulling the big lever outbaord, the small lever shifts OK--very common. DON'T strip it down, you will never get it back together. make sure the inner witre/housing/BB guikde are smooth and clean. Flush the innards of the lever with a spray lube. If it is still bad-warranty(2 years) or replace. Another option is Campagnolo, levers and a rear der, that can be maintaned by taking them apart. I disagree. The decision to strip it down vs. getting a new one (if it's past warranty) depends on how much your time is worth, and how mechanically inclined you are. I've never yet met a road STI lever that could not be repaired such that shifting functionality is as good as new (assuming no internal parts broke). All such repairs are still going strong, past the 10K mi. mark. A repair such as this should take most people no more than 30-45 minutes once the lever is off the bike. The Shimano Service Instructions even provides info to separate the lever from the lever body, which is generally about as far as one needs to go in such instances. Anyone care to offer any advice on stripping the shifter down? If I was to look for a second hand unit are theer any issues with mix and matching from the shimano range beyond appearance and number of cogs (is 9-speed compatible with anything else for shifting distance) tia james You have absolutely nothing to lose (except time) to strip it down and re-lube it. Generally these levers get stuck because the grease is gone and the shift pod is left with the binders that was in the grease. The prawls get stuck in this gunk and have difficulty engaging. The only tools you should need to accomplish disassembly are allen keys, and maybe a screwdriver. I do *not* recommend the WD-40 flush as a permanent fix. Once that evaporates (and it will do so reasonably quickly), you're pretty much stuck with the same issue. The WD-40 flush however, is a good sanity check to determine whether your levers are good candidates for restoration. - Take the levers apart from the brake lever body (hooded part) as instructed by Shimano Service Instructions. - Use compressed air to blow away any residual gunk in the shifting mechanism. You can use the compressed air cans available at office supply stores if you don't have a compressor. Use qtips or whatever other tools to remove as much gunk from the shift mechanism as possible. If you're really in an adventurous mood, soak the lever body in kerosene. If you do this you probably want to remove the rubber hoods first. Use compressed air to dry out the shift mechanism afterwards. - Apply about 5 drops of oil (like Phil Wood Tenacious) into the shift mechanism. Cycle thru shifts a few times to make sure oil penetrates the shift mechanism. - Use a synthetic grease (like Phil Wood) and lube all moving parts inside the shift mechanism. Use a grease injector if you have to. Again cycle thru shift mechanism a few times to make sure the grease gets distributed evenly in the shift mechanism. - Verify correct operation by shifting to each of the detents. If this stage is successful, you may reassemble the lever back onto the lever body as instructed by Shimano Service Instructions. Wipe off any excess oil and grease. Make sure the springs in the shift mechanism are inside the right places when you reassemble. If the levers do not pass test, repeat above two steps. - Mount the lever back onto the handlebars. Lever may drip oil for days, so make sure you have a rag on ground beneath lever to catch excess oil. Wipe any excess oil from levers diligently. - Enjoy your good as new levers for the next 10K miles |
#9
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tiagra 9 speed STI shifter maintenance
in message . com, The
Luggage ') wrote: wrote: The right hand (ie rear derailleur) shifter sometimes fails to engage the ratchet when I am downshifting (ie to a bigger cog). When I press the lever it just moves with minimal resistance and does nothing. Usually after a couple of pushes it engages and thern shifts ok but sometimes it takes longer. When it is stuck in this mode I can still upshift with the other paddle. I can occaisionally reproduce it on demand by randomly down and upshifting. Can anyone tell me if this is a common failure mode? Anyone care to offer any advice on stripping the shifter down? If I was to look for a second hand unit are theer any issues with mix and matching from the shimano range beyond appearance and number of cogs (is 9-speed compatible with anything else for shifting distance) As others have said, there's not much point trying to strip these things down. I've had a couple of sets of gear levers go in the same way. I think it's just the ratchets and pawls wearing out. Sometimes a good skoosh of lubricant will help for a while, but you'll need to start saving your pennies for a new one, I'm afraid. By contrast, Campagnolo ones are fairly easy to strip, and every last little bit is available as a spare part at reasonable cost. You pays your money and you makes your choice... -- (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/ [ This mind intentionally left blank ] |
#10
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tiagra 9 speed STI shifter maintenance
Qui si parla Campagnolo wrote: wrote: `snip STI shifter ratchet not catching ... Another option is Campagnolo, levers and a rear der, that can be maintaned by taking them apart. I am a bit torn with prices. New tiagra levers come to GBP105. New mirage levers and rear mech come to GBP77 plus I will need new cables, probbaly at leats some new outers, new bar tape and more work to fit it all. On the plus side I lose the simano gear cabel run at the shifters, I get an excuse to change to a long/medium cage mech which will allow me to use a bigger max cog size (I presume campy mechs have an equivalent to the shimano b screw adjustment) plus i get easier to maintain shifters. Sheldon Brown and Chris Juden both seem a little equivoical on exactly how good the indexing will be with a shimnao cassette/ campy shifters and mech combo will be. Anyone got any practical experience to share? Also, I was checking out a sora shifter today and it looks to me that you can only upshift from the hoods, not from the drops. Is that right? Is there a similar limitation on ergopower? What is the shifting action with ergopower? I think I will probbaly try stripping/lubing the shifter as I have little to lose tia james |
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