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#81
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Noise from new Sunrace cassette
On 2018-11-27 14:17, news18 wrote:
On Tue, 27 Nov 2018 10:22:18 -0800, Joerg wrote: On 2018-11-27 07:23, Ralph Barone wrote: In my case, 10-speed with friction shifters would not be that great. Of course, I could buy a new bike ... Are you sure? :-) No because then my wife would want this trusty old road bike to disappear. She has a point, too many bikes already in the garage, three for me and one is hers. Me = bicycles, her = sewing machines. Nuff said. Same here. However, I've already got sort of two man caves here. One being a hobby brewery downstairs. _With_ pool table and big screen TV, of course. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ |
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#82
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Noise from new Sunrace cassette
On Tue, 27 Nov 2018 11:26:07 -0000 (UTC), Duane
wrote: John B. slocomb wrote: On Mon, 26 Nov 2018 14:24:45 -0800, Joerg wrote: On 2018-11-26 14:01, Sir Ridesalot wrote: On Monday, November 26, 2018 at 4:26:53 PM UTC-5, duane wrote: Snipped Typically if I start off on a decent lenght ride, I like to have a reasonable expectation of getting back without having to try to rebuild the bike on the side of the road. To hack my cassette to save one cog makes no sense to me. Frugality is a good thing for the planet and all but this is sounding close to OCD. I have a couple of bicycle wheels that still have Uniglide Cassette bodies on them. A few years ago I came across a bicycle shop that was a bit outside of a city in our area. that shop HAD a number of brand new Uniglide 7 speed cassettes at $5.00 per cassette. I said HAD because I bough every one they had. I even have a couple of NOS Uniglide cassette bodies. Out of curiosity, what are UG cassette bodies? The UG cassettes I had, even before a hack, consisted only of cogs, spacers and three screws that held it all together (but which weren't really needed and removed by me). ... I'm set for the rest of my years and won't need to hack apart and Dremel Hyperglide cassettes to replace those Uniglide cogs once they wear out on both sides. If I get to the point where I need lower gears I'll just swap out the bottom bracket spindle 0r cartridge and add a triple chainring crankset. I have a number of those on hand waiting for that day. That'll be very hard on the chain and cogs if you ride a lot of hills. Depends on rider weight and load, of course. Speaking of hacking cassettes. I have one bicycle wheel that has a 9-speed hacked cassette with a corncob cluster 11 to 19 teeth being shifted with friction downtube shifters which is good because one of the cogs I could not find on my spare 9 speed cassettes was take from and 8 speed cassette. I have no problems shifting to or from any of those cogs. It's a fun bike to ride on gently rolling hills. On my long distance road bike I have the Campagnolo Veloce 30 - 42 - 52 triple crank and find that 30 teeth ring useful at times in strong headwinds, steep hills or if I'm really tired. However, I think some people like Joerg simply enjoy making something work with something it wasn't designed to work with. Oh yeah. Sometimes you get a little bonus in the wake. For example, this new cassette came with 11T and 13T as smallest cogs. Because of its construction these had to stay in unless I'd do a more serious hack on the big grinder. Turns out that 52/11 acts like an overdrive in a car and if the wind picks up a wee bit I can shift to 13T. Currently I am missing 15T so I accelerate for the last bit on the 18T, then shift to the 13T for a "mild overdrive". It suits me well because I am not used to spinning. Interesting. A 52/11 with a 23mm tire at a moderate 90 RPM crank speed is about 54 KPH or 33 MPH. I read that TdF level riders will ride a 36 K time trial in the 29 - 31 MPH range. Not to butt in but your comparing some unknown distance of a probably top speed over unknown grade and an arbitrary rpm with a pro’s average speed over some probably different distance and grade. I’ve certainly used my 52/11 in the hills and I am definitely not gunning for the TDF. Though I wouldn’t hack my cassette to achieve what I can buy off the shelf. As I read his original post he is riding on a generally level road using a 52/11 as an "over drive". Now you say that you use a 52/11 in the hills which implies that you are riding on hilly terrain using a 52/11. One can only assume that you actually mean that you use a 52/11 gear down hills... not up the hills :-) cheers, John B. |
#83
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Noise from new Sunrace cassette
On Tuesday, November 27, 2018 at 10:20:23 AM UTC-8, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-11-27 08:40, jbeattie wrote: On Tuesday, November 27, 2018 at 7:14:23 AM UTC-8, Joerg wrote: On 2018-11-27 07:04, jbeattie wrote: On Monday, November 26, 2018 at 2:24:47 PM UTC-8, Joerg wrote: On 2018-11-26 14:01, Sir Ridesalot wrote: On Monday, November 26, 2018 at 4:26:53 PM UTC-5, duane wrote: Snipped Typically if I start off on a decent lenght ride, I like to have a reasonable expectation of getting back without having to try to rebuild the bike on the side of the road. To hack my cassette to save one cog makes no sense to me. Frugality is a good thing for the planet and all but this is sounding close to OCD. I have a couple of bicycle wheels that still have Uniglide Cassette bodies on them. A few years ago I came across a bicycle shop that was a bit outside of a city in our area. that shop HAD a number of brand new Uniglide 7 speed cassettes at $5.00 per cassette. I said HAD because I bough every one they had. I even have a couple of NOS Uniglide cassette bodies. Out of curiosity, what are UG cassette bodies? The UG cassettes I had, even before a hack, consisted only of cogs, spacers and three screws that held it all together (but which weren't really needed and removed by me). ... I'm set for the rest of my years and won't need to hack apart and Dremel Hyperglide cassettes to replace those Uniglide cogs once they wear out on both sides. If I get to the point where I need lower gears I'll just swap out the bottom bracket spindle 0r cartridge and add a triple chainring crankset. I have a number of those on hand waiting for that day. That'll be very hard on the chain and cogs if you ride a lot of hills. Depends on rider weight and load, of course. Speaking of hacking cassettes. I have one bicycle wheel that has a 9-speed hacked cassette with a corncob cluster 11 to 19 teeth being shifted with friction downtube shifters which is good because one of the cogs I could not find on my spare 9 speed cassettes was take from and 8 speed cassette. I have no problems shifting to or from any of those cogs. It's a fun bike to ride on gently rolling hills. On my long distance road bike I have the Campagnolo Veloce 30 - 42 - 52 triple crank and find that 30 teeth ring useful at times in strong headwinds, steep hills or if I'm really tired. However, I think some people like Joerg simply enjoy making something work with something it wasn't designed to work with. Oh yeah. Sometimes you get a little bonus in the wake. For example, this new cassette came with 11T and 13T as smallest cogs. Because of its construction these had to stay in unless I'd do a more serious hack on the big grinder. Turns out that 52/11 acts like an overdrive in a car and if the wind picks up a wee bit I can shift to 13T. Currently I am missing 15T so I accelerate for the last bit on the 18T, then shift to the 13T for a "mild overdrive". It suits me well because I am not used to spinning. So, are your three lowest cogs 11, 13, 18? Is there nothing between 13 and 18? Unfortunately not. I'll see how that fares this week. If I really want that 15T I'll probably take out the 28T instead. The bike only supports 7-speed unless I'd go to a smaller chain. With friction shifters a smaller chain and more cogs would not be fun. https://www.bikenashbar.com/cycling/...-expert-bz-rfe Wait for the bankruptcy to ramp-up, and the price will drop some more -- or get the same bike at the door-closing sale at your nearest Performance. Steel, 9 reasonable speeds, tire clearance, discs, etc., etc. All the things you want for your gnarly road riding in the wilds of Cameron Park. The massive Trump tax break should more than fund that bike, or at least the bar tape. That is a good deal and with hydraulic brakes no less. Bankruptcy at Nashbar? Please tell us you were kidding. Pricepoint is already gone which hurt (no bankruptcy, they just shut down) and now another? https://www.bicycleretailer.com/indu...1#.W_3M49tKiUk Relatively old news -- and it is consolidated with the bankruptcies filed by the parent company, ASI, and Performance. I looked at the docket (NC Middle District). Yikes. Wells Fargo filed a proof of claim for $37M. Nashbar has filed a motion to approve the sale of substantially all its assets, which is kind of an end-around plan approval and probably means there is someone in the wings waiting to buy. Chapter 11 is fascinating -- full of tricks and way beyond my expertise. -- Jay Beattie. |
#84
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Noise from new Sunrace cassette
On Tue, 27 Nov 2018 15:36:46 -0500, Frank Krygowski
wrote: On 11/27/2018 1:02 PM, Sir Ridesalot wrote: On Tuesday, November 27, 2018 at 10:14:23 AM UTC-5, Joerg wrote: Snipped Unfortunately not. I'll see how that fares this week. If I really want that 15T I'll probably take out the 28T instead. The bike only supports 7-speed unless I'd go to a smaller chain. With friction shifters a smaller chain and more cogs would not be fun. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ I have two bicycles with 9 speed clusters, chain and old school friction shifters. I can shift gears on either bicycle with no problems. YMMV and probably does. My folding bike has a 9 speed cluster and bar end shifters that can be set to either index or friction. Sometimes the folding messes with the indexing for a while, so I just use the friction setting. It's no problem at all. But I know it wouldn't work for Joerg. Both of my "Bangkok" bikes have down tube friction shifters and I find no problems in shifting. I read once in a magazine that someone asked Eddy Merckx, who probably rode much of his career with friction shifters, if he had ever missed a shift and he replied, "I haven't missed a shift since I was 12 years old". cheers, John B. |
#85
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Noise from new Sunrace cassette
On Tue, 27 Nov 2018 07:07:10 -0800, Joerg
wrote: On 2018-11-26 19:43, John B. slocomb wrote: On Mon, 26 Nov 2018 14:24:45 -0800, Joerg wrote: [...] Speaking of hacking cassettes. I have one bicycle wheel that has a 9-speed hacked cassette with a corncob cluster 11 to 19 teeth being shifted with friction downtube shifters which is good because one of the cogs I could not find on my spare 9 speed cassettes was take from and 8 speed cassette. I have no problems shifting to or from any of those cogs. It's a fun bike to ride on gently rolling hills. On my long distance road bike I have the Campagnolo Veloce 30 - 42 - 52 triple crank and find that 30 teeth ring useful at times in strong headwinds, steep hills or if I'm really tired. However, I think some people like Joerg simply enjoy making something work with something it wasn't designed to work with. Oh yeah. Sometimes you get a little bonus in the wake. For example, this new cassette came with 11T and 13T as smallest cogs. Because of its construction these had to stay in unless I'd do a more serious hack on the big grinder. Turns out that 52/11 acts like an overdrive in a car and if the wind picks up a wee bit I can shift to 13T. Currently I am missing 15T so I accelerate for the last bit on the 18T, then shift to the 13T for a "mild overdrive". It suits me well because I am not used to spinning. Interesting. A 52/11 with a 23mm tire at a moderate 90 RPM crank speed is about 54 KPH or 33 MPH. I read that TdF level riders will ride a 36 K time trial in the 29 - 31 MPH range. Then there are people who prefer not to ride longer distance at 90rpm. I often ride at 20mph and the resulting lower rpm feels just right. While "spinning" initially seems difficult it really isn't and it is the most efficient method of powering a bicycle. (horse) Power = RPM x Force (and, yes I know there is a constant used to convert to some specified output value :-) cheers, John B. |
#86
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Noise from new Sunrace cassette
On Tue, 27 Nov 2018 07:16:19 -0800, Joerg
wrote: On 2018-11-26 19:29, John B. slocomb wrote: On Mon, 26 Nov 2018 12:28:09 -0800, Joerg wrote: On 2018-11-25 17:56, jbeattie wrote: [...] I can't get a HG cassette cog to fit on a HG freehub body if I flip the cog. The notches are not symmetrical. After a little dance with a Dremel you can. A new 10 speed free hub is less then $20. Spreading the rear fork is a trivial task, re dishing a wheel, that is reasonably true, is simple ... In my case, 10-speed with friction shifters would not be that great. Of course, I could buy a new bike ... Interesting. One of my bikes has a ten speed cassette and I shift it with a friction down tube shifter with no problems. cheers, John B. |
#87
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Noise from new Sunrace cassette
On 2018-11-27 15:54, John B. slocomb wrote:
On Tue, 27 Nov 2018 07:07:10 -0800, Joerg wrote: On 2018-11-26 19:43, John B. slocomb wrote: On Mon, 26 Nov 2018 14:24:45 -0800, Joerg wrote: [...] Speaking of hacking cassettes. I have one bicycle wheel that has a 9-speed hacked cassette with a corncob cluster 11 to 19 teeth being shifted with friction downtube shifters which is good because one of the cogs I could not find on my spare 9 speed cassettes was take from and 8 speed cassette. I have no problems shifting to or from any of those cogs. It's a fun bike to ride on gently rolling hills. On my long distance road bike I have the Campagnolo Veloce 30 - 42 - 52 triple crank and find that 30 teeth ring useful at times in strong headwinds, steep hills or if I'm really tired. However, I think some people like Joerg simply enjoy making something work with something it wasn't designed to work with. Oh yeah. Sometimes you get a little bonus in the wake. For example, this new cassette came with 11T and 13T as smallest cogs. Because of its construction these had to stay in unless I'd do a more serious hack on the big grinder. Turns out that 52/11 acts like an overdrive in a car and if the wind picks up a wee bit I can shift to 13T. Currently I am missing 15T so I accelerate for the last bit on the 18T, then shift to the 13T for a "mild overdrive". It suits me well because I am not used to spinning. Interesting. A 52/11 with a 23mm tire at a moderate 90 RPM crank speed is about 54 KPH or 33 MPH. I read that TdF level riders will ride a 36 K time trial in the 29 - 31 MPH range. Then there are people who prefer not to ride longer distance at 90rpm. I often ride at 20mph and the resulting lower rpm feels just right. While "spinning" initially seems difficult it really isn't and it is the most efficient method of powering a bicycle. (horse) Power = RPM x Force I am just not used to it and spent most of my cycling life in sort of an "overdrive". Old dog, new tricks? Nah ... Also, the taller a person is the less he or she generally likes high rpm. (and, yes I know there is a constant used to convert to some specified output value :-) My legs can pump all the output I want from them. Eventually I just run out of breath, that's the limiter. That can be trained up as well but I don't have any Tour de France ambitions. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ |
#88
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Noise from new Sunrace cassette
On 2018-11-27 15:56, John B. slocomb wrote:
On Tue, 27 Nov 2018 07:16:19 -0800, Joerg wrote: On 2018-11-26 19:29, John B. slocomb wrote: On Mon, 26 Nov 2018 12:28:09 -0800, Joerg wrote: On 2018-11-25 17:56, jbeattie wrote: [...] I can't get a HG cassette cog to fit on a HG freehub body if I flip the cog. The notches are not symmetrical. After a little dance with a Dremel you can. A new 10 speed free hub is less then $20. Spreading the rear fork is a trivial task, re dishing a wheel, that is reasonably true, is simple ... In my case, 10-speed with friction shifters would not be that great. Of course, I could buy a new bike ... Interesting. One of my bikes has a ten speed cassette and I shift it with a friction down tube shifter with no problems. Sure, I can do that as well. It's just not very comfortable without indexing, especially like yesterday where I rode along a busy road with lots of noise, in the dark. So you could be going miles with a slightly out of trim derailer and not hear it. Not healthy for the chain. That chance is lower the wider the chain is. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ |
#89
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Noise from new Sunrace cassette
On 2018-11-27 15:39, jbeattie wrote:
On Tuesday, November 27, 2018 at 10:20:23 AM UTC-8, Joerg wrote: On 2018-11-27 08:40, jbeattie wrote: On Tuesday, November 27, 2018 at 7:14:23 AM UTC-8, Joerg wrote: On 2018-11-27 07:04, jbeattie wrote: On Monday, November 26, 2018 at 2:24:47 PM UTC-8, Joerg wrote: On 2018-11-26 14:01, Sir Ridesalot wrote: On Monday, November 26, 2018 at 4:26:53 PM UTC-5, duane wrote: Snipped Typically if I start off on a decent lenght ride, I like to have a reasonable expectation of getting back without having to try to rebuild the bike on the side of the road. To hack my cassette to save one cog makes no sense to me. Frugality is a good thing for the planet and all but this is sounding close to OCD. I have a couple of bicycle wheels that still have Uniglide Cassette bodies on them. A few years ago I came across a bicycle shop that was a bit outside of a city in our area. that shop HAD a number of brand new Uniglide 7 speed cassettes at $5.00 per cassette. I said HAD because I bough every one they had. I even have a couple of NOS Uniglide cassette bodies. Out of curiosity, what are UG cassette bodies? The UG cassettes I had, even before a hack, consisted only of cogs, spacers and three screws that held it all together (but which weren't really needed and removed by me). ... I'm set for the rest of my years and won't need to hack apart and Dremel Hyperglide cassettes to replace those Uniglide cogs once they wear out on both sides. If I get to the point where I need lower gears I'll just swap out the bottom bracket spindle 0r cartridge and add a triple chainring crankset. I have a number of those on hand waiting for that day. That'll be very hard on the chain and cogs if you ride a lot of hills. Depends on rider weight and load, of course. Speaking of hacking cassettes. I have one bicycle wheel that has a 9-speed hacked cassette with a corncob cluster 11 to 19 teeth being shifted with friction downtube shifters which is good because one of the cogs I could not find on my spare 9 speed cassettes was take from and 8 speed cassette. I have no problems shifting to or from any of those cogs. It's a fun bike to ride on gently rolling hills. On my long distance road bike I have the Campagnolo Veloce 30 - 42 - 52 triple crank and find that 30 teeth ring useful at times in strong headwinds, steep hills or if I'm really tired. However, I think some people like Joerg simply enjoy making something work with something it wasn't designed to work with. Oh yeah. Sometimes you get a little bonus in the wake. For example, this new cassette came with 11T and 13T as smallest cogs. Because of its construction these had to stay in unless I'd do a more serious hack on the big grinder. Turns out that 52/11 acts like an overdrive in a car and if the wind picks up a wee bit I can shift to 13T. Currently I am missing 15T so I accelerate for the last bit on the 18T, then shift to the 13T for a "mild overdrive". It suits me well because I am not used to spinning. So, are your three lowest cogs 11, 13, 18? Is there nothing between 13 and 18? Unfortunately not. I'll see how that fares this week. If I really want that 15T I'll probably take out the 28T instead. The bike only supports 7-speed unless I'd go to a smaller chain. With friction shifters a smaller chain and more cogs would not be fun. https://www.bikenashbar.com/cycling/...-expert-bz-rfe Wait for the bankruptcy to ramp-up, and the price will drop some more -- or get the same bike at the door-closing sale at your nearest Performance. Steel, 9 reasonable speeds, tire clearance, discs, etc., etc. All the things you want for your gnarly road riding in the wilds of Cameron Park. The massive Trump tax break should more than fund that bike, or at least the bar tape. That is a good deal and with hydraulic brakes no less. Bankruptcy at Nashbar? Please tell us you were kidding. Pricepoint is already gone which hurt (no bankruptcy, they just shut down) and now another? https://www.bicycleretailer.com/indu...1#.W_3M49tKiUk Relatively old news -- and it is consolidated with the bankruptcies filed by the parent company, ASI, and Performance. I looked at the docket (NC Middle District). Yikes. Wells Fargo filed a proof of claim for $37M. Ugh! That's even worse. ASI has the Fuji brand and that's what my MTB is. So if I bust the Horst link I may not be able to buy a spare. Oh-oh. Nashbar has filed a motion to approve the sale of substantially all its assets, which is kind of an end-around plan approval and probably means there is someone in the wings waiting to buy. Chapter 11 is fascinating -- full of tricks and way beyond my expertise. If Nashbar, ASI and Performance all go down the chute that would be a major blow to the American bicyle market. Thanks for elucidating, I didn't know any of that. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ |
#90
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Noise from new Sunrace cassette
On 2018-11-27 15:24, John B. slocomb wrote:
On Tue, 27 Nov 2018 11:26:07 -0000 (UTC), Duane wrote: John B. slocomb wrote: On Mon, 26 Nov 2018 14:24:45 -0800, Joerg wrote: On 2018-11-26 14:01, Sir Ridesalot wrote: On Monday, November 26, 2018 at 4:26:53 PM UTC-5, duane wrote: Snipped Typically if I start off on a decent lenght ride, I like to have a reasonable expectation of getting back without having to try to rebuild the bike on the side of the road. To hack my cassette to save one cog makes no sense to me. Frugality is a good thing for the planet and all but this is sounding close to OCD. I have a couple of bicycle wheels that still have Uniglide Cassette bodies on them. A few years ago I came across a bicycle shop that was a bit outside of a city in our area. that shop HAD a number of brand new Uniglide 7 speed cassettes at $5.00 per cassette. I said HAD because I bough every one they had. I even have a couple of NOS Uniglide cassette bodies. Out of curiosity, what are UG cassette bodies? The UG cassettes I had, even before a hack, consisted only of cogs, spacers and three screws that held it all together (but which weren't really needed and removed by me). ... I'm set for the rest of my years and won't need to hack apart and Dremel Hyperglide cassettes to replace those Uniglide cogs once they wear out on both sides. If I get to the point where I need lower gears I'll just swap out the bottom bracket spindle 0r cartridge and add a triple chainring crankset. I have a number of those on hand waiting for that day. That'll be very hard on the chain and cogs if you ride a lot of hills. Depends on rider weight and load, of course. Speaking of hacking cassettes. I have one bicycle wheel that has a 9-speed hacked cassette with a corncob cluster 11 to 19 teeth being shifted with friction downtube shifters which is good because one of the cogs I could not find on my spare 9 speed cassettes was take from and 8 speed cassette. I have no problems shifting to or from any of those cogs. It's a fun bike to ride on gently rolling hills. On my long distance road bike I have the Campagnolo Veloce 30 - 42 - 52 triple crank and find that 30 teeth ring useful at times in strong headwinds, steep hills or if I'm really tired. However, I think some people like Joerg simply enjoy making something work with something it wasn't designed to work with. Oh yeah. Sometimes you get a little bonus in the wake. For example, this new cassette came with 11T and 13T as smallest cogs. Because of its construction these had to stay in unless I'd do a more serious hack on the big grinder. Turns out that 52/11 acts like an overdrive in a car and if the wind picks up a wee bit I can shift to 13T. Currently I am missing 15T so I accelerate for the last bit on the 18T, then shift to the 13T for a "mild overdrive". It suits me well because I am not used to spinning. Interesting. A 52/11 with a 23mm tire at a moderate 90 RPM crank speed is about 54 KPH or 33 MPH. I read that TdF level riders will ride a 36 K time trial in the 29 - 31 MPH range. Not to butt in but your comparing some unknown distance of a probably top speed over unknown grade and an arbitrary rpm with a pro’s average speed over some probably different distance and grade. I’ve certainly used my 52/11 in the hills and I am definitely not gunning for the TDF. Though I wouldn’t hack my cassette to achieve what I can buy off the shelf. As I read his original post he is riding on a generally level road using a 52/11 as an "over drive". Now you say that you use a 52/11 in the hills which implies that you are riding on hilly terrain using a 52/11. One can only assume that you actually mean that you use a 52/11 gear down hills... not up the hills :-) You can get up to impressive speeds with 52/11 downhill, pedaling full blast. On Sunday I couldn't resist but throttled back when the front end started a hard shimmy. What would be really cool is to move from the bike lane all the way into the left lane and pass a Porsche :-) Anyhow, I could almost kick myself for not having done this mod much earlier when 40-11T came out. I saw such a cassette on a friend's MTB and just had to have one. I'll probably never look back. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ |
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