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  #11  
Old April 30th 19, 10:13 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Joerg[_2_]
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Posts: 6,016
Default Belt drive

On 2019-04-30 12:16, Joerg wrote:
On 2019-04-29 18:52, Andre Jute wrote:
On Tuesday, April 30, 2019 at 12:35:24 AM UTC+1, Joerg wrote:
On 2019-04-29 16:02, John B. wrote:
On Mon, 29 Apr 2019 07:16:27 -0700, Joerg
wrote:

On 2019-04-28 15:07, John B. wrote:
On Sun, 28 Apr 2019 07:46:33 -0700, Joerg
wrote:

On 2019-04-27 15:55, John B. wrote:
On Sat, 27 Apr 2019 07:59:25 -0700, Joerg
wrote:

On 2019-04-26 16:12, John B. wrote:
On Fri, 26 Apr 2019 07:27:05 -0700, Joerg
wrote:

On 2019-04-25 16:32, John B. wrote:
On Thu, 25 Apr 2019 14:16:28 -0700, Joerg
wrote:

On 2019-04-25 14:03, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Thursday, April 25, 2019 at 3:22:36 PM
UTC-4, Joerg wrote:
On 2019-04-25 11:00, Roger Merriman wrote:
Joerg
wrote:
On 2019-04-12 07:27, db wrote:
My son is set on getting a belt drive
for the bike he is building. What is
good about them? You have to have the
exact length for your bike, and if it
breaks, it is very expensive to
replace.

So, why?


Dad gave him too much money :-)

Now, a shaft drive, that would be
great.


Imagine it would be much heavier and
complicated, they have been tried and
used on MTB but don’t seem to have been
cracked, I think generally the extra
weight/cost though a E-MTB would mitigate
that?


Motorcycle manufacturers have figured it
out, most of all BMW. That company should
also build MTB, they know how it's done.
Weight doesn't always matter, especially
not for many MTB riders. We just want less
wear and most importanly not have to clean
and lube the chain every 50 miles.

It often takes the bicycle industry decades
longer to figure something out. Such as
decent heavy-duty rack space on FS MTB and
central-battery powered lighting where, no
surprise, I had to build it all myself.
Beats me why one still cannot buy this:

http://www.analogconsultants.com/ng/bike/Muddy5.JPG



It's lasted many thousand hard miles now which included heavy
loads. Yeah, that bike is heavy but it
never breaks down anymore.


Given a choice I’d love a belt drive bike
for the commute as I clock up fairly
respectable distances per day which does
chew though the drive chain.


I'd be careful ...

https://www.thelocal.se/20180524/ike...-lead-to-falls






--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

Weight of an MTB doesn't matter? What a crock
full of El Toro Poo Poo! Maybe weight doesn't
matter in your world but it sure does to a
LOT of other MTB users. I keep telling you
Joerg; your best bet to get the durability
that you say YOU need is to buy a small
gasoline powered dirt motorcycle and convert
it to pedal power. After all, weight doesn't
matter to you.


Within reason, of course. There are people who
rather ride a bicycle that weighs 10lbs more
than customary but in contrast to others they
generally arrive at their destinations on time,
due to a lack of breakdowns. I happen to be one
of those.

The only times during the last years (!) that I
didn't arrive on time were when I assisted
others during repairs. Because they didn't
have thorn-resistant tubes et cetera.

But Joerg, I ride a conventional steel frame
bicycle and I haven't had a breakdown, or even
something that came loose so I couldn't ride,
in 20 years or more. In fact, in thinking back I
can't even remember a time that my bike broke and
I couldn't ride it.


No flats in 20 years?

I didn't say anything about flat tires but I don't
judge a flat tire to be a "breakdown" or "came
loose"

A flat tire without any tools _is_ a breakdown. He get
to hoof it out of the wilderness for then next 10-20
miles.

But in all the years I've been riding a bicycle I have
NEVER had a flat tire that I couldn't fix in a matter of
minutes. Way back in the old "sew-up" tire days you
didn't even need any tools. Fix it with your bare
hands.


Now try that with a Gatorskin or a Vee Rubber 700c 25mm.
Yeah, it can be done but you won't be able to feel some of
your fingertips for a while.

I bought a pair of Gatorskin tires, oh probably 10 years ago,
and contrary to their advertised proof against flats promptly
had two flats in less than 5 Km of riding. I haven't used a
gatorskin since.


I never use them anymore either. I found them a bit undersized,
a bear to get on. The running surface is sturdy and no flats
there. Also, one of them made it to a record 2500mi while no
others ever exceeded 2000mi by much on the rear. However, all
other Gatorskins I had failed prematurely in their sidewalls
and that's what makes them unacceptable to me.


As for Vee tires, I have the feeling that they are a very
cheap Thai made tire or at least I saw some for sale in a
store called "Super Cheap" for something like 3 dollars each,
so I don't use those either.


Just because something is cheap does not mean it is a bad
product.

No, but it does mean that it is cheap and cheap can be produced
by using less than quality materials.

I've been told that the cheap tires in Thailand all made
from a rubber mix that contains a lot of carbon black, which
makes them harder and they wear less and thus are very well
regarded by those who can't afford to buy tires frequently.
Unfortunately hard tires also "grip the road" less well and
have minimal traction.


I do not need Tour de France level cornering performance and
found them to be quite adequate for riding. Especially the MTB
tires because there durability and sturdiness counts a lot more
than sqeezing the last tenth of an mph out of a ride.

On both the road bike and the MTB I want beefy sidewalls and so
far tires made in Thailand gave me that, plus a decent number
of miles in terms of wear.

I really don't understand this fetish with how many miles a
bicycle tire lasts. After all, compared to something like auto
tires or egg beaters they are pretty cheap.


How would you like it if you had to switch out the tires on your
car every 2500mi?

Besides, it ain't cheap:

1. SUV, four tires, $70 each so $280 total, 1st set lasted 70000mi
and still had half the tread. I only replaced them because they
were around 15 years old.

2. Gatorskin, $45, lasted 2500mi at which point the tread surface
was at bare minimum.

3. Vittoria Zafiro, $13, 2000mi.

Want more? I trust you can do the math.

-- Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/


I dunno what you're doing, Joerg, but you're doing it wrong. Compare
this to your expensive misfortunes with supposedly "cheap" tyres:

1. Schwalbe 622x60 Big Apples, pair, plus T19A Ultraleigt tubes,
pair, total delivered to my door Euro 66 -- half-worn at
8500km/5300m


Maybe your riding style or terrain. I tend to always go full bore,
whatever the leg muscles can deliver. That ain't wrong, that's my mode
of operation because I don't like to go slow. None of my local bike
friends milks more than 2500mi out of a rear tire. None.


Andre Jute The best is always in the end the cheap option


Expensive does always not mean good. Certainly not with bicycle tires.


Sorry, should read "Expensive does not always mean good".

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/
 




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