Advice sought on fork repair

Andrew W wrote:

So the only choices I seem to have are using these or spending a
significant amount having one custom made.

I'm not averse to spending a little money - after all, I reckon a
replacement steerer will be fifty to sixty pounds by the time I've got
it re-painted etc. My problem is that stock forks of this dimension
just don't seem to be available at any price.

Andrew

Just have one made. I'd be willing to bet that you can get pne for what
you were going to spend on the repair. I'd make a fork like the one you
want for $150 with a simple paint job and it will be cheaper in Jolly
Old.
Phil Brown

Andrew W wrote:
I have a broken fork which I would like to get repaired.

http://tinyurl.com/coljg

The left hand fork has the steerer tube come away from the crown. The
threaded insert for mudguard/brakes/reflector bracket is all that is
holding the steerer in place.

The fork is from a 26" wheel touring bike with 1" unthreaded steerer.
The main frame is Renolds 631 tubing, the fork isn't marked so I don't
know the exact materials, though it is the original for that bike.

I would just go ahead and get it fixed, but there are two things that
concern me:

1. Looking from below (http://tinyurl.com/88vxd) the end of the steerer
tube is now distinctly flattened at one side and has deformed the hole
in the crown. It is no longer a snug fit in the crown, but wobbles
freely. (I had difficulty getting my camera to focus on the right bit
here so the photo isn't as clear as it might be).

2. No matter what I do the steerer will never sit straight, this is
about the best I can do (http://tinyurl.com/dtvc7). The only thing I
can think of is that the crown itself may be somewhat twisted (though I
can see no sign of damage even to the paintwork).

So, at last getting to the point. Should I:

1. Get a new steerer fixed to the damaged fork, letting the
framebuilder work out how to get it straight and fill in any gaps round
the hole.

why not? you like the fork, you can save money by painting it
yourself... just make sure you don't go back to the guy that built it
in the first place. the failure appears to be the brazing coming apart
- the tube/crown/blades should break long before the weld breaks on a
socket connection like that. suspect the crown/steerer tube interface
was not sufficiently clean/fluxed before brazing. again, find a good
competent builder that knows that they're doing.

try http://www.merciancycles.co.uk/renovation.asp

new fork column 40 ukp


2. On the right of the pictures you will see an old 531 fork. Can I
simply have the threaded steerer replaced with a longer, unthreaded one
and use this? (lack of disk and low-rider mounts are not and issue)?

yes, but it costs the same...


Advice sought.

you could also try a cyclocross carbon fork like winwood, but
personally, i'd only use a steel steerer of a 1" fork, especially for
the larger sizes, but that's your call.


Andrew

On 24 Jul 2005 08:32:13 -0700, "Andrew W"
wrote:

If I could easily source a decent fork of appropriate dimensions then I
would buy one, but none of five bike shops I visited yesterday had ANY
forks of this size, never mind some that would be a good match for my
frame.

A good bit of internet seaching has failed to come up with anything
either. Surprising for a 3-year old bike, but that's life.

You said it was a 26" fork; would that be for 559 or 590 wheels? If
the rims are 559, then look for a mountain bike fork. If the rims are
590, then you're up against more of a challenge.

There's a decent 559 mtb fork with a 280mm steerer at Nashbar for
US$65 plus shipping.
--
Typoes are a feature, not a bug.
Some gardening required to reply via email.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

Damage was accident rather than wear and tear so no complaints there.

Thanks for thr recommedation of Mercian, I had overlooked them. Having
had differing advice I will come down on fitting a new steerer to the
531 fork. It has plenty of miles on it (pre cycle computer days so I
don't know how many exactly), and should be good for a lot more.

I have found Bob Jackson (Leeds), Argos (Bristol) and now Mercian all
offering reasonable rates for the modification (all around 40 pounds) -
I'm spoilt for choice - all these have excellent reputations, though I
have no personal experience.

You are right about the paintwork. All the above would charge nearly
as much again for painting. All in all 40 pounds for a 531 fork looks
good value (especially as I have no possible other use for it).

Thanks to all for helping me make up my mind.

Andrew

Andrew W wrote:

I have a broken fork which I would like to get repaired.

http://tinyurl.com/coljg

The left hand fork has the steerer tube come away from the crown. The
threaded insert for mudguard/brakes/reflector bracket is all that is
holding the steerer in place.

The fork is from a 26" wheel touring bike with 1" unthreaded steerer.
The main frame is Renolds 631 tubing, the fork isn't marked so I don't
know the exact materials, though it is the original for that bike.

I would just go ahead and get it fixed, but there are two things that
concern me:

1. Looking from below (http://tinyurl.com/88vxd) the end of the steerer
tube is now distinctly flattened at one side and has deformed the hole
in the crown. It is no longer a snug fit in the crown, but wobbles
freely. (I had difficulty getting my camera to focus on the right bit
here so the photo isn't as clear as it might be).
2. No matter what I do the steerer will never sit straight, this is
about the best I can do (http://tinyurl.com/dtvc7). The only thing I
can think of is that the crown itself may be somewhat twisted (though I
can see no sign of damage even to the paintwork).
So, at last getting to the point. Should I:
1. Get a new steerer fixed to the damaged fork, letting the
framebuilder work out how to get it straight and fill in any gaps round
the hole.
2. On the right of the pictures you will see an old 531 fork. Can I
simply have the threaded steerer replaced with a longer, unthreaded one
and use this? (lack of disk and low-rider mounts are not and issue)?

If you engage a framebuilder s/he will work out the
alignment, don't worry.
And if you're going to pay for a fork rebuild ( usually
costs more than just buying a fork) decide which of the two
you prefer and/or see if the rake and clearance are
identical. Your framebuilder should be able to advise, so
bring both along.
Did you inquire about a warranty replacement on that
defective fork? If you are the original owner you may be
able to get a free replacement - that is not a normally
expected failure.
--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

Andrew W wrote:

If I could easily source a decent fork of appropriate dimensions then I
would buy one, but none of five bike shops I visited yesterday had ANY
forks of this size, never mind some that would be a good match for my
frame.

A good bit of internet seaching has failed to come up with anything
either. Surprising for a 3-year old bike, but that's life.

So the only choices I seem to have are using these or spending a
significant amount having one custom made.

I'm not averse to spending a little money - after all, I reckon a
replacement steerer will be fifty to sixty pounds by the time I've got
it re-painted etc. My problem is that stock forks of this dimension
just don't seem to be available at any price.

Try an email with dimensions ( or bike year/model) to Peter,
Sheldon Brown, ourselves, similar shops which commonly
service road bikes.

Few 'bike shops' worthy of the name any more. . .

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

Andrew W wrote:

2. On the right of the pictures you will see an old 531 fork. Can I
simply have the threaded steerer replaced with a longer, unthreaded one
and use this? (lack of disk and low-rider mounts are not and issue)?

Option 2 is marginally cheaper than a new carbon fork from eBay, and
much cheaper than a new steel fork. Cost about 50UKP including paint
over here, not sure in the US.

Measure the rake and ensure it is reasonably close to that of the old
fork. Most forks for racing bikes have a rake of 43mm or thereabouts,
but touring bikes with slack head angles often have huge rake. Put one
of those on a frame with a steep head angle and you'll be in the ditch
as soon as you get out of the saddle.

"Andrew W" writes:

I have a broken fork which I would like to get repaired.

http://tinyurl.com/coljg

This looks like a pretty common made-in-asia C52 Everest semisloping
crown. That means that you should be able to get another fork of this
type, or have the fork re-made if you cannot get it repaired. I
believe that Ceeway still offers these crowns :

http://www.framebuilding.com/Fork-Crowns.htm

- Don Gillies
San Diego, CA

My local dealer has inquired about replacements from the original bike
maker (Dawes), which comes in at 110 pounds.

I have a quote of 40 pounds for replacing the steerer on my old fork,
so I think I will go with that idea.

I don't have anywhere local to do this work so I will have to deal by
post - this was one reason I wanted to take impartial advice first.

This isn't a warranty issue as it is crash damage rather than wear and
tear.

Thanks for the help.