Stripped pedal threads - manufacturer defect?

I was riding my Torker LX (which I've had since christmas '04) along in
the park when suddenly, the left pedal fell off. I took a moment to look
at the parts that had failed, and found that the threads on the pedal
itself appeared to have stripped off the threads inside the crank. (see
the pictures below)

Because the threads were stripped so deeply, it would seem that the
pedal was not loose at the time it came off - the threads gave way for
no apparent reason (I have only ridden along streets and occasionally
some grass w/ this unicycle - no hops, jumps, or major traumas).

Do you think this would be considered manufacturer defect? Or simply a
poorly made product?

Also, does anyone know how much it would cost to repair this? I'm
assuming the crank and the pedal would have to be replaced, given the
extent of the thread damage. I don't think loc-tite would hold this in
very well.

Thanks for the advice!

~ David

[image: http://coneff.org/P4125525-crop.jpg]

[image: http://coneff.org/P4125520-crop.jpg]


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aurum78
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This happened to my friend's torker that he ordered off of ebay.

I think it's a cheap product that caused the failure. We were only
learning to ride on his uni and it went the same way.

The pedals are probably fine, it looks like the crank is the part that
gave way. If the threads look to be intact on the pedal, you can order
up some new cranks if you'd like. People always talk about nimbus x
cranks as being cheap and strong. That's an idea.

Also, nice photos! It's much easier to tell what's going on when good
citizens as yourself post properly focused quality photos.


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Bob22b - MCL Tearer :d
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In fact, the one I have is also bought off of eBay (christmas present).
I was just wondering if it was simply b/c it was cheap, or perhaps if
it's a problem w/ the entire line (torker, or that model - lx).

Just to be clear though, the pedals are (or were) threaded in correctly
(right pedal to right crank, etc.). If I keep the pedal, I'll have to
dig out the stripped metal from the threads of the crank (I don't mind
doing that though). Thanks for the suggestion - I generally have no idea
which brands to go w/ for uni stuff - I'll start looking for some prices
on that brand.

Thx for the comment on the pics, btw I take about 5 pics of the same
thing just to make sure I get it focused right w/ these damn
point-and-shoot cams (I've got an Olympus D-550Z, I'd rather have a
Canon A70 though).


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aurum78
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I havnt had a unicycle do that but I have had a bike do that


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brockfisher05 - THE YAM FATHER

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That's exactly what the result of crossthreading looks like.


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mscalisi - Not such a newbie anymore
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I doubt it is the result of putting the wrong pedal in the wrong crank
(unless of course, the labels are wrong). The pedal has an R on the
surface at the tip of the end of the threads, and the inside of the
crank has the letters "TOP FORGED 152 D -2R", whereas the other crank
(not stripped) has the exact same, except for an L at the "-2R" part
(it's "-2L").


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aurum78
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mscalisi wrote:
*That's exactly what the result of crossthreading looks like. *
I have to agree. At any rate, the threads on the pedal are toast too,
and trying to install them on a new crank is unadvisable.


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jiheison
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Hi my names David, and I have a problem. I strip cranks.

Not being sarcastic my name is David and I strip cranks too. I've done
two sets of torkers, my bro's set, and most recently my KH's, all in one
year, as long as I've been riding semi seriously. Pedals are very
finnacky in my experience. My guess is human error. My first Torker I
didn't know there was a left and a right and put them in wrong and
stripped them quite easily. Second pair, the wheel got turned around in
a bike shop so it was like I was constantly pedaling backwards (thank
you Klaas Bill for bringing my attention to this) and it eventually
worked its way out and completely stripped. My left KH I was just to
rough. The threads got crossed and it stripped. I sent it to Darren and
he put in a helicoil no problems since, a bit of the helicoil came off
but really no issue. Recently my other one stripped and I don't know
how. I felt the tiniest wobble, then did a 28" drop (it was directly
after my personal record setting rolling hop) straight to flat with no
rollout, but I am pretty skinny. I heard a metallic clank and thought I
hit my rim, checked it over found nothin, went to ride and there was a
huge wobble in my pedal I tightened it then it popped out like after 10
metres of riding. My brothers I think he did the same screwing it in and
he worked it out a little then when mine broke and I started messing
around on his I really messed it up.

Personally I doubt it wa any kind of defect but it could be. You must
treat the pedal/crank interface like a woman, with care and delicately.
Screw (I didn't even think that till I typed it but I won't go there) it
in by hand and very gently to make sure the threads aren't crossed, then
tighten it with a wrench as hard as you can. I have relatively limited
experience but that is what I have learned. So just be careful. Your
cranks are pretty inexpensive to replace so I don't think you should
worry about repairing it. Good luck.

David


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darchibald wrote:Screw (I didn't even think that till
I typed it but I won't go there) it in by hand and very gently to make
sure the threads aren't crossed, then tighten it with a wrench as hard
as you can.
Good advice, but pedal/crank threads do have a maximum torque spec. It
is quite high, but not impossible to overcome and do damage. The
manufacturers should be able to tell you what the proper torque spec is.


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jiheison
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Maybe thats what I did to the mystery KH. Oh well, I will remember
that.

Thanks,
David


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darchibald - Trials and Street rider

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