Stripped crank arm

Swapping out old-for-new rings last night, thought I had the Park crank
extractor threaded on correctly to a vintage Suntour XC-Pro crank, felt the
extractor "slip" while attempting to remove the crank.

Bottom line is the crank threads are shot and while the crank isn't coming
off right away, the bad news is the Park tool isn't getting the crank off
right away either.

So what's the accepted method for removing the crank ?. LBS "special tool",
Sawzall the spindle ?.

Any (useful) thoughts appreciated.

Steve B.

On Wed, 19 May 2004 21:32:07 GMT, "Steve"
wrote:

Swapping out old-for-new rings last night, thought I had the Park crank
extractor threaded on correctly to a vintage Suntour XC-Pro crank, felt the
extractor "slip" while attempting to remove the crank.

Bottom line is the crank threads are shot and while the crank isn't coming
off right away, the bad news is the Park tool isn't getting the crank off
right away either.

So what's the accepted method for removing the crank ?. LBS "special tool",
Sawzall the spindle ?.


One consideration and two ideas.

Basically, the crank is hosed, right? No harm in making it worse, eh?

Ive heard that people will do a bit of hard riding with a crank bolt
all but falling off. This should loosen the crank to the point it is
about to drop off too. The crank is boned now though since the flats
(assuming square tapers) are no longer...umm.. flat.

Ive taken a hacksaw and dremel to the crank near the spindle and
worked it till it popped free too. Takes a long time if you dont want
to damage the frame or spindle with the hacksaw blade. Much easier
going than trying to get through the spindle though.

"Steve" wrote in message . net...
snip

So what's the accepted method for removing the crank ?. LBS "special tool",
Sawzall the spindle ?.

Any (useful) thoughts appreciated.

Steve B.

I've heard of various methods, from gear pullers to pickle forks
(one of these: http://www.toolking.com/performance/view.asp?id=1233 ).
The lowest-tech solution is to leave the bolt out and ride the bike
(carefully!) until the crank falls off.

I'd probably take a hacksaw to the crank and split it. That'll teach
it to strip!

Jeff

On 19 May 2004 21:21:30 -0700, (Jeff Wills) wrote:

"Steve" wrote in message . net...
snip

So what's the accepted method for removing the crank ?. LBS "special tool",
Sawzall the spindle ?.

Any (useful) thoughts appreciated.

Steve B.

I've heard of various methods, from gear pullers to pickle forks
(one of these: http://www.toolking.com/performance/view.asp?id=1233 ).
The lowest-tech solution is to leave the bolt out and ride the bike
(carefully!) until the crank falls off.

I'd probably take a hacksaw to the crank and split it. That'll teach
it to strip!

Jeff

I was taking the Park Tool course at my LBS and when I was in process
of removing the crank arm on the project bike I experienced the same
problem. The instructor used a pickle fork with quite some force and
extracted the crank arm. Did no damage to the carbon frame or the
spindle.
Your mileage may vary.

Regards

David James

On Wed, 19 May 2004 21:32:07 GMT, "Steve" may
have said:

Swapping out old-for-new rings last night, thought I had the Park crank
extractor threaded on correctly to a vintage Suntour XC-Pro crank, felt the
extractor "slip" while attempting to remove the crank.

Bottom line is the crank threads are shot and while the crank isn't coming
off right away, the bad news is the Park tool isn't getting the crank off
right away either.

So what's the accepted method for removing the crank ?. LBS "special tool",
Sawzall the spindle ?.

Any (useful) thoughts appreciated.

If you can demount the rings, move them toward the frame and thereby
get adequate access to the crank to use a conventional gear puller,
that's the logical place to start.

--
My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail.
Typoes are not a bug, they're a feature.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

On Thu, 20 May 2004 09:00:14 -0500, David James
may have said:

I was taking the Park Tool course at my LBS and when I was in process
of removing the crank arm on the project bike I experienced the same
problem. The instructor used a pickle fork with quite some force and
extracted the crank arm. Did no damage to the carbon frame or the
spindle.
Your mileage may vary.

I recently sent a mass-market steel frame to recycling because it had
a BB shell with threads that would no longer permit BB installation
due to the use of one of those by someone prior to my having acquired
it. If the BB has a stout lip, and you don't mind the possibility
that the bearings may be hosed by the side force, a fork will often
work. Just don't try it with a BB that has a thin or fragile lip; the
fork may do ugly things in that case.

--
My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail.
Typoes are not a bug, they're a feature.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

On Thu, 20 May 2004 17:01:39 GMT, Werehatrack
wrote:
I recently sent a mass-market steel frame to recycling because it had
a BB shell with threads that would no longer permit BB installation
due to the use of one of those by someone prior to my having acquired
it.

There are BBs for frames with stripped threads.
--
Rick Onanian

If you have *any* threads at all left, there's a pretty good solution.
Your LBS will have a little tool, that has pilot that threads into the BB
threads themselvles. Then, there's a piced that guides down into the
threads, over the pilot, and allows you to easily remove the crank.
With this tool, it's shocking how little threds you need to pull the crank.
I got mine long ago, I think it's a QBP part, but I'm not sure. It's saved
me several times, great investment, and I've seen them on the wall at most
LBS'.

-pete

"Steve" wrote in message
et...
Swapping out old-for-new rings last night, thought I had the Park crank
extractor threaded on correctly to a vintage Suntour XC-Pro crank, felt
the
extractor "slip" while attempting to remove the crank.

Bottom line is the crank threads are shot and while the crank isn't coming
off right away, the bad news is the Park tool isn't getting the crank off
right away either.

So what's the accepted method for removing the crank ?. LBS "special
tool",
Sawzall the spindle ?.

Any (useful) thoughts appreciated.

Steve B.

On Thu, 20 May 2004 13:10:32 -0400, Rick Onanian
may have said:

On Thu, 20 May 2004 17:01:39 GMT, Werehatrack
wrote:
I recently sent a mass-market steel frame to recycling because it had
a BB shell with threads that would no longer permit BB installation
due to the use of one of those by someone prior to my having acquired
it.

There are BBs for frames with stripped threads.

Not stripped in this case. Mashed and distorted. The shoulder of the
shell is no longer square. It would still would with a threadless BB,
but it was a crappy frame anyway; why bother?

--
My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail.
Typoes are not a bug, they're a feature.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

For removal of a stripped arm, one fairly simply and effective method
is to loosen the crank bolt one or two turns and to ride the bike.
The pressure from the bolt holds the arm secure. The stress of riding
without pressure tends to loosen the arm, either square type or spline
type. Do not remove the bolt entirely, as the arm may come off during
a power stroke.

Regarding the tool mentioned by Pete Grey, that is a Bicycle Research
tool, the TC-10.