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  #11  
Old February 26th 18, 02:01 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Emanuel Berg[_2_]
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Posts: 826
Default v-brakes

John B. wrote:

Why? There are the brakes attached to the
bicycle and there are you sitting there
looking at them. Why for you need a poster.


Because this is a wood house, the work shop
must look advanced and hi-tech to compensate

--
underground experts united
http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573
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  #12  
Old February 26th 18, 02:20 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
AMuzi
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Posts: 9,442
Default v-brakes

On 2/25/2018 7:42 PM, John B. wrote:
On Sun, 25 Feb 2018 09:46:22 -0500, Frank Krygowski
wrote:

On 2/25/2018 6:01 AM, John B. wrote:

The three little holes at the hub are to adjust the brake arms. Try to
get the brake arms parallel. The small bolts are for fine tuning the
adjustment. Start with them screwed in about half way. (Or out about
half way, if you prefer


Half way in vs. half way out? This could be the next r.b.tech controversy!


Well, one does try to be politically correct and given all the claims
of indecent conduct occurring 20 or 30 years in the past a certain
level of prudence seems to be called for. After all some will
certainly argue that half way in is a whole different matter then half
way out :-)


In the famously heroic words of Capt. Lloyd Bucher,
"penetration however slight is sufficient to complete the act."

Right up there with Gen McAuliffe for catchy composition
under fire.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971


  #13  
Old February 26th 18, 03:18 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
John B.[_3_]
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Posts: 3,967
Default v-brakes

On Mon, 26 Feb 2018 03:01:01 +0100, Emanuel Berg
wrote:

John B. wrote:

Why? There are the brakes attached to the
bicycle and there are you sitting there
looking at them. Why for you need a poster.


Because this is a wood house, the work shop
must look advanced and hi-tech to compensate


So a wall covered with Posters.... in lieu of competency?
--
Cheers,

John B.

  #14  
Old February 26th 18, 09:12 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Ian Field
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Posts: 249
Default v-brakes



"Emanuel Berg" wrote in message
...
Here are a couple of pics to facilitate the
discussion:

http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573/bike/brake/

I've heard that

1) the long spring pin should be in the
middle boss hole

2) the pads/shoes/blocks should be slightly
pointing inward on the rim on the front
end

3) the arms should be vertical

4) between the cable anchor bolt/cable
clamp and the noodle/guide should be
39mm of cable


Most brake arms seem to be curved - so which bit needs to be vertical.

I frequently have a problem with no clearance between cable clamp and noodle
guide.

The steel rims seem to be slightly wider than the aluminium ones, so I can
usually use the blocks down to their wear limits without stacking washers on
the brake block studs when the noodle hits the clamp.

Arms bolt upright gives optimum leverage, so worth aiming for if you can get
it. Maybe set them leaning out a bit so they wear in to vertical.

"toeing in" the brake blocks is to prevent brake noise - leave it and its as
good as a horn/bell for dumbass pedestrians wandering about in the road.

  #15  
Old February 27th 18, 03:46 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Emanuel Berg[_2_]
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Posts: 826
Default v-brakes

Ian Field wrote:

"toeing in" the brake blocks is to prevent
brake noise - leave it and its as good as
a horn/bell for dumbass pedestrians wandering
about in the road.


Really? That's it?

OTOH I really dislike any kind of noise from
riding a bike tho.

--
underground experts united
http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573
  #16  
Old February 27th 18, 03:51 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Emanuel Berg[_2_]
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Posts: 826
Default v-brakes

Ned Mantei wrote:

What hasn't worked for me is a special tool
like this one:
https://www.veloplus.ch/AlleProdukte...hevonTacx.aspx
In theory that tool holds the brake shoes
just where they should be, including with
proper toe-in. However, I always ended up
with the brake shoes at the lower/inner edge
of the rim (towards the hub). This isn't
good, because as the brake shoes wear and get
thinner the brake will engage farther down in
the rim. If it starts at the edge, later it
will be partly off the rim towards the
center**. So this could be a point 5 in
your list.


.... OK, how would you phrase that, except the
tool doesn't work as intended?

I thought about such a tool myself, a small
clamp basically, and not just for this brake in
particular, but just ended up with squeezing
them together manually so far...

I haven't worried at all about your point 4,
and just adjust the cable so that there is
minimal clearance between pads and rim.
Whether more or less than 39 mm would depend
on rim width, so not a constant for all bikes
(and for my BR-M750 the service instructions
anyhow say to have 45 mm or more).


OK, great, thanks!

--
underground experts united
http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573
 




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