chain tool technique?

I'm using a Park CT-5 http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?
cat=5&item=CT-5, this time with a single speed SRAM chain, to break
apart a dirty chain, and then re-assemble the clean chain. The pin
doesn't always go back in smoothly. Often, I notice some burrs on the
outside of the pin link plate at the point where I broke/ re-assembled
the chain. Sometimes, I also find thin strands of metal on the pin
link, caused by pushing the pin back in.

So far, I've usually shrugged my shoulders, figured "what the heck,"
and gone for a ride. Once, a chain (on a geared bike, 8-speed IIRC)
spontaneously broke during a ride -- possibly as a result of my chain
tool technique.

I used superlinks for a while. They seemed to work ok on clean
chains, but were too difficult to separate on dirty chains.

Any thoughts or advice?

Thanks,
Larry

LF wrote:
I'm using a Park CT-5 http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?
cat=5&item=CT-5, this time with a single speed SRAM chain, to break
apart a dirty chain, and then re-assemble the clean chain. The pin
doesn't always go back in smoothly. Often, I notice some burrs on the
outside of the pin link plate at the point where I broke/ re-assembled
the chain. Sometimes, I also find thin strands of metal on the pin
link, caused by pushing the pin back in.

So far, I've usually shrugged my shoulders, figured "what the heck,"
and gone for a ride. Once, a chain (on a geared bike, 8-speed IIRC)
spontaneously broke during a ride -- possibly as a result of my chain
tool technique.

I used superlinks for a while. They seemed to work ok on clean
chains, but were too difficult to separate on dirty chains.

Any thoughts or advice?

We do not rivet 7 chain here.
For 8, 9, 10 use the manufacturer's snap link or a compatible as the
downside risk is a rider injury not just the $5 expense.
--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971
** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

On Tue, 18 Nov 2008 19:13:12 -0800 (PST), LF wrote:

s, I also find thin strands of metal on the pin
link, caused by pushing the pin back in.

So far, I've usually shrugged my shoulders, figured "what the heck,"
and gone for a ride. Once, a chain (on a geared bike, 8-speed IIRC)
spontaneously broke during a ride -- possibly as a result of my chain
tool technique.

A broken chain can be very dangerous -- I can't offer you advice on
using that tool, but don't ride a chain if the assembly doesn't go
just right.

On Nov 18, 10:13*pm, LF wrote:
I'm using a Park CT-5 http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?
cat=5&item=CT-5, this time with a single speed SRAM chain, to break
apart a dirty chain, and then re-assemble the clean chain. *The pin
doesn't always go back in smoothly. *Often, I notice some burrs on the
outside of the pin link plate at the point where I broke/ re-assembled
the chain. *Sometimes, I also find thin strands of metal on the pin
link, caused by pushing the pin back in.

So far, I've usually shrugged my shoulders, figured "what the heck,"
and gone for a ride. *Once, a chain (on a geared bike, 8-speed IIRC)
spontaneously broke during a ride -- possibly as a result of my chain
tool technique.

I used superlinks for a while. *They seemed to work ok on clean
chains, but were too difficult to separate on dirty chains.


The phrase "go back in smoothly" scares the waterproof grease out of
me. You're not *completely* removing the pin, are you? You should be
pushing it just enough to be able to wiggle the chain apart - about
1/3 of the length of the pin, maybe 1/2, max.

And I don't use a chain tool on my 8-speed bike - I use a "superlink."
They're not that hard to undo - I usually use a small pair of semi-
needle-nose pliers - ViseGrip type - to push the opposite corners of
the link. A shot of fresh oil and a paper napkin can help clean it
before disassembly, which makes it a lot easier. In other words, don't
try to do it on a dirty chain, clean that one link first.

On Nov 18, 8:13*pm, LF wrote:
I'm using a Park CT-5 http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?
cat=5&item=CT-5, this time with a single speed SRAM chain, to break
apart a dirty chain, and then re-assemble the clean chain. *The pin
doesn't always go back in smoothly. *Often, I notice some burrs on the
outside of the pin link plate at the point where I broke/ re-assembled
the chain. *Sometimes, I also find thin strands of metal on the pin
link, caused by pushing the pin back in.

So far, I've usually shrugged my shoulders, figured "what the heck,"
and gone for a ride. *Once, a chain (on a geared bike, 8-speed IIRC)
spontaneously broke during a ride -- possibly as a result of my chain
tool technique.

I used superlinks for a while. *They seemed to work ok on clean
chains, but were too difficult to separate on dirty chains.

Any thoughts or advice?

Thanks,
Larry

Advice is to use the supplied master link on the PC-1. Like Andy, we
do not push pins out and then IN on any chain we sell. WE use the
supplied pin(shimano, Campagnolo) or a compatible snap link(Wipperman
and Sram). Plates and pins of today's chains are not designed to push
the pin out and then back in.

Qui si parla Campagnolo wrote:
On Nov 18, 8:13 pm, LF wrote:
I'm using a Park CT-5 http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?
cat=5&item=CT-5, this time with a single speed SRAM chain, to break
apart a dirty chain, and then re-assemble the clean chain. The pin
doesn't always go back in smoothly. Often, I notice some burrs on the
outside of the pin link plate at the point where I broke/ re-assembled
the chain. Sometimes, I also find thin strands of metal on the pin
link, caused by pushing the pin back in.

So far, I've usually shrugged my shoulders, figured "what the heck,"
and gone for a ride. Once, a chain (on a geared bike, 8-speed IIRC)
spontaneously broke during a ride -- possibly as a result of my chain
tool technique.

I used superlinks for a while. They seemed to work ok on clean
chains, but were too difficult to separate on dirty chains.

Any thoughts or advice?

Thanks,
Larry

Advice is to use the supplied master link on the PC-1. Like Andy, we
do not push pins out and then IN on any chain we sell. WE use the
supplied pin(shimano, Campagnolo) or a compatible snap link(Wipperman
and Sram). Plates and pins of today's chains are not designed to push
the pin out and then back in.

Specifically, the ends of the pins are riveted to flare the ends
slightly. This prevents them from coming out of the side plates easily,
making them more resistant to the forces encountered with shifting and
cross-chaining. The downside to this is that when you push a pin out,
the hole in the side plate is stretched and enlarged and some of the
flare is removed from the pin. When you force it back into place, you do
more damage and the result is a weak link. While it may be fine to get
you home in an emergency, you should not continue to ride it.
Personally, I use connecting links on all my chains and carry a spare on
all my bikes, along with a chain to to remove broken links.

BTW, in days of olde, when 5 and 6 speed drivetrains ruled the earth,
chain pins weren't riveted, their pins protruded well past the side
plates and you could push them in and out with relative impunity.
Connecting links weren't necessary and weren't even available.

In theory, a single speed chain doesn't need riveted pins, but I don't
know if anyone makes one without them.

Ah, I'm beginning to understand:

Specifically, the ends of the pins are riveted to flare the ends
slightly. This prevents them from coming out of the side plates easily,
making them more resistant to the forces encountered with shifting and
cross-chaining. The downside to this is that when you push a pin out,
the hole in the side plate is stretched and enlarged and some of the
flare is removed from the pin. When you force it back into place, you do
more damage and the result is a weak link.

Snip

BTW, in days of olde, when 5 and 6 speed drivetrains ruled the earth,
chain pins weren't riveted, their pins protruded well past the side
plates and you could push them in and out with relative impunity.
Connecting links weren't necessary and weren't even available.

In theory, a single speed chain doesn't need riveted pins, but I don't
know if anyone makes one without them.

OK. So, the "advance" in chain technology prevents a chain tool from
doing a good job. Maybe (unlikely. none found on SRAM site) I can
find some "non-riveted" 3/32 chains. Otherwise, it's back to
connector links. Too bad. A chain tool with a non-riveted chain is,
IMO, a superior technology. I prefer things that can easily be taken
apart and put back together by the end user.

Best,
Larry "7-speed is the pinnacle of bicycle drive-train technology"
Fieman

On Nov 20, 7:17*am, LF wrote:
Ah, I'm beginning to understand:



Specifically, the ends of the pins are riveted to flare the ends
slightly. This prevents them from coming out of the side plates easily,
making them more resistant to the forces encountered with shifting and
cross-chaining. The downside to this is that when you push a pin out,
the hole in the side plate is stretched and enlarged and some of the
flare is removed from the pin. When you force it back into place, you do
more damage and the result is a weak link.

Snip



BTW, in days of olde, when 5 and 6 speed drivetrains ruled the earth,
chain pins weren't riveted, their pins protruded well past the side
plates and you could push them in and out with relative impunity.
Connecting links weren't necessary and weren't even available.

In theory, a single speed chain doesn't need riveted pins, but I don't
know if anyone makes one without them.

OK. *So, the "advance" in chain technology prevents a chain tool from
doing a good job. *Maybe (unlikely. none found on SRAM site) I can
find some "non-riveted" 3/32 chains. *Otherwise, it's back to
connector links. *Too bad. *A chain tool with a non-riveted chain is,
IMO, a superior technology. *I prefer things that can easily be taken
apart and put back together by the end user.

Best,
Larry "7-speed is the pinnacle of bicycle drive-train technology"
Fieman

Campagnolo 9s chains, Rohloff 8s chains, Sedis SC-40..all have the pin
pushed out, then in, type design. Look for those.

On Nov 20, 9:31*am, Qui si parla Campagnolo
wrote:
On Nov 20, 7:17*am, LF wrote:



Campagnolo 9s chains, Rohloff 8s chains, Sedis SC-40..all have the pin
pushed out, then in, type design. Look for those.

Thanks much.
Larry

UH SO FAR ?

use the tool in a vice. use new pins - the pins in the chain tool.
use a bright light focused on the chain tool/chain pin interface.
lube link or better soak link in HOT light synthetic oil.
light oil is found at the bottom of an unshaken and undisturbed synth
motor oil after the main volume is drained off.
start off slow. use a small screwdriver on the roght forcing chain
tool pin to center on the chain pin.
the chain tool pin will indent the chain pin after 2-3 tries.
do not wander the chain tool pin over to the chain pin's outer
circumference.
if the chain tool pin wanders off center then back off and recenter.
4-5 squeezes will move chain pin across the link facing you toward the
chain's center.
at some point there you'll decide to move the chain pin fully across
at some point depending on your experience.
rui9ning a chain is easy with the handheld press tools.
pro's use a pliers and zap the pin out with one stroke.
howabout that?
butthen itsnot their chain izzzit?