29" mountain bike tires from Vee Rubber?

Folks,

After only 500 miles the Hutchinson Cobra tire on my 29" MTB rear wheel
is down to less than 50% tread. Considering that it is a $50 tire this
disappoints a bit. The tires on my SUV don't cost much more but last at
least 50 times more miles.

Sooo ... since MTB riders told me that tires pretty much all wear down
fast I am looking for a better bang for the buck and found:

http://www.pricepoint.com/Components...no=1&fq=price:[10+TO+20]

Reviews that I saw on mtbr.com and other places were generally ok. Or is
there anything I should be concerned about? And which one should I pick?

I am an XC rider, not a downhiller, but I do ride some very gnarly
trails with rock gardens. I still got time since I can switch front and
back, so maybe another 1000mi if lucky but then they'll be really bald
in the center and I think I must replace them before the wet and muddy
season starts here in Northern California. I do not care about weight at
all. What matters is sturdiness (against punctures, rock hits, side wall
scrapes and such), tread wear and price. In that order. Regarding
traction I found that the $12 Maxxis 1040 on my old 26" MTB are not
worse and they show similar tread wear. Unfortunately Maxxis does not
make those in 29".

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

Joerg wrote:
Folks,

After only 500 miles the Hutchinson Cobra tire on my 29" MTB rear wheel
is down to less than 50% tread. Considering that it is a $50 tire this
disappoints a bit. The tires on my SUV don't cost much more but last at
least 50 times more miles.

Sooo ... since MTB riders told me that tires pretty much all wear down
fast I am looking for a better bang for the buck and found:

http://www.pricepoint.com/Components...no=1&fq=price:[10+TO+20]

Reviews that I saw on mtbr.com and other places were generally ok. Or is
there anything I should be concerned about? And which one should I pick?

I am an XC rider, not a downhiller, but I do ride some very gnarly
trails with rock gardens. I still got time since I can switch front and
back, so maybe another 1000mi if lucky but then they'll be really bald
in the center and I think I must replace them before the wet and muddy
season starts here in Northern California. I do not care about weight at
all. What matters is sturdiness (against punctures, rock hits, side wall
scrapes and such), tread wear and price. In that order. Regarding
traction I found that the $12 Maxxis 1040 on my old 26" MTB are not
worse and they show similar tread wear. Unfortunately Maxxis does not
make those in 29".


For sime reason their links don't work well, maybe this works as an example:

http://www.pricepoint.com/Brand/Vee-...lding-Tire.axd

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

On Tue, 22 Jul 2014 09:23:14 -0700, Joerg
wrote:

(...)
I don't have an answer to your questions, but do have a suggestion.
Get a durometer tester:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/141250852613
Rule-o-thumb. 70 is hard, 60 is typical, 50 is soft.

I have one that I've been using to measure the hardness of various
rubber bicycle components (and encapsulation compounds). I find that
the harder rubbers tend to last longer, while the really soft rubbers,
that give the most comfortable rides, wear quickly. Some tires have
different durometer readings on different parts of the tread. The
reading will also vary with temperature. If you spin the tires in the
dirt or skid to a halt, the tire will get hot and soften. My guess
(not verified) is that the more rubber in contact with the road, the
longer it will last.

Mo
http://mountainbikefaq.com/2010/02/mountain-bike-tire-compound

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Vapors here. Run on street....Oregooninas took a Big Apple....enjoying that a the first stretch off the driveway in down the grass berm past torists, drunks, various miscreants, headed into Deadman's Tern.

Here the scoop:

http://www.conti-online.com/www/bicy...en/themes/mtb/

tho we feel you pain, you have missed the point @

market rules here, quality control holds the helm. That is, what you bought is a special tire for a niche use...I have no specialknowledge of what that means but this is usually the situation with a 'manufacturer.
That said, as Brandt would write, everyone get it wong but not often or the market will kill their income: no boat.

so if you doahn know...meaning a communications line into the headsup LBS or on the scene racing or club activity, well read in online reviews...informed..

then buying form a major company solves the prob.

the Vapors are not disintegrating on pavement, run down the berms with authority/grip/directional control.

What else would you want ? .378 off the lap time ? what lap time ?

One upon I bought an aluminum chain ring theoretically producing a better lap time around town from the then '78 era Raleigh sport-tourer. Worked grate. You know how that goes.

Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Tue, 22 Jul 2014 09:23:14 -0700, Joerg
wrote:

(...)
I don't have an answer to your questions, but do have a suggestion.
Get a durometer tester:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/141250852613
Rule-o-thumb. 70 is hard, 60 is typical, 50 is soft.


Most modern tires are dual compound. Hard longer-lasting rubber in the
center, soft on the sides for when you hit the trail. However, my
definition of longer-lasting is entirely different from that of the
bicycle industry.


I have one that I've been using to measure the hardness of various
rubber bicycle components (and encapsulation compounds). I find that
the harder rubbers tend to last longer, while the really soft rubbers,
that give the most comfortable rides, wear quickly. Some tires have
different durometer readings on different parts of the tread. The
reading will also vary with temperature. If you spin the tires in the
dirt or skid to a halt, the tire will get hot and soften. My guess
(not verified) is that the more rubber in contact with the road, the
longer it will last.


My rear wheel rarely spins and I don't drag it through turns like
competition MTB riders. But I do cycle at a pretty fast clip on trails a
lot, 15mph or more through the rough stuff, mostly to get from A to B in
a reasonable time.


Mo
http://mountainbikefaq.com/2010/02/mountain-bike-tire-compound


Not much new info in there, I know that you can't have it all. That's
why I have a priority list and am willing to sacrifice traction for
better durability. What I find disappointing is that bicycle tires are
orders of magnitudes from the tread wear quality of SUV tires yet cost
almost as much or sometimes more.

My MTB isn't only used for fun but also for transport. Though I have to
confess that I occasionally take a detour via a nice trail. This is why
the bike spends most of its time on dirt, riding on asphalt is so boring.

If there isn't any tire with substantially less wear I'll just go the
route of finding the lowest cost tire that does the job and then use
them up one by one. Environmentally that is not a good way of doing
things but what can ya do?

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

wrote:
Vapors here. Run on street....Oregooninas took a Big
Apple....enjoying that a the first stretch off the driveway in down
the grass berm past torists, drunks, various miscreants, headed into
Deadman's Tern.

Here the scoop:

http://www.conti-online.com/www/bicy...en/themes/mtb/


That has just their offerings. The Trail King looks nice but like the
Cobra it's a $50 tire. I will only spend that much if I know it'll last
way more than 1000mi.


tho we feel you pain, you have missed the point @


What point?


market rules here, quality control holds the helm. That is, what you
bought is a special tire for a niche use...


It isn't. The Hutchinson Cobra came stock with the bike and that is an
all-purpose XC tire. Not a niche market.


... I have no specialknowledge
of what that means but this is usually the situation with a
'manufacturer. That said, as Brandt would write, everyone get it wong
but not often or the market will kill their income: no boat.

so if you doahn know...meaning a communications line into the headsup
LBS or on the scene racing or club activity, well read in online
reviews...informed..

then buying form a major company solves the prob.


I am sure that is does not solve the problem. My tires are from a major
company and have a good reputation. Many mountain bikers told me that
such a lifetime is normal out here. If that is indeed true then I am
going to need cheaper tires that do the same kind of job.


the Vapors are not disintegrating on pavement, run down the berms
with authority/grip/directional control.

What else would you want ? .378 off the lap time ? what lap time ?

One upon I bought an aluminum chain ring theoretically producing a
better lap time around town from the then '78 era Raleigh
sport-tourer. Worked grate. You know how that goes.


That probably would not last through the end of the year on my MTB :-)

But I do have aluminum chain rings on my 80's road bike. Shimano 600,
had it all custom built in the 80's, and only the good stuff.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

'It isn't. The Hutchinson Cobra came stock with the bike and that is an
all-purpose XC tire. Not a niche market.'

I would disagree. The bike factory stuck you with soft compound tires enhancing bike's performance image.

Univerals Cycles titre wall boggles. Tread tread tread variations....work the designs over in your head....you'll see there's an iron for every fairway or trying to get there. But one size doahn fit all.

hmmm where's the wet red clay subase tread ?

1000 miles ? knobbies cut.lotta knobby designs.Ifn the knobs loose a sharp edge then the design effectiveness/performance in grip goes down down down.

so 1000 miles is imposseblay.

tire life depends more on the cyclist/mechanic than the factory. Are the wheels always TRUE ? bearings TIGHT ? are you scrubbing corners, spinning rear without caws ?

but there's Pirelli....know several drivers mention Pirelli n they convulse.. I have a grudge on Michelin for designing a tread locks up in puddles zzzzzzziiiiiiiiiiinnnnnnnnnnnnnnnng it went. deadly. cars in ravines all over north yurp. then there's Badrich.....

Conti TT went from back sidewalls to brown 'gumwalls' losing weight carrying capacity to gain response which was that Conti expletive deleted an outstanding tire.

current tire question here is how wide ?

first rides with a Redline steel cyclocrosser mounted a 2.4 ? Schwlabe BA on rear for soft surface floating. The BA was a boat anchor. Was stolen by said oregoonians.

Mounted a 2.1 Vapor. Good.

Now looking find 47c tires at 1.65.\

Need to check the rim see if that width mounts a 1.65.

I feel squirrely thinking abt it

..5 inch loss with .25 rubber contact gain ?

My head is locked into big rubber.

wrote:
'It isn't. The Hutchinson Cobra came stock with the bike and that is
an all-purpose XC tire. Not a niche market.'

I would disagree. The bike factory stuck you with soft compound tires
enhancing bike's performance image.


Nope. The center knobs are 50 shore A, only the side ones are 42
durometer. The underlayment is 60. That is not a soft tire.


Univerals Cycles titre wall boggles. Tread tread tread
variations....work the designs over in your head....you'll see
there's an iron for every fairway or trying to get there. But one
size doahn fit all.

hmmm where's the wet red clay subase tread ?

1000 miles ? knobbies cut.lotta knobby designs.Ifn the knobs loose a
sharp edge then the design effectiveness/performance in grip goes
down down down.

so 1000 miles is imposseblay.


Looks like they will give me 1000 miles, but barely. I don't care so
much about top performance as long as they don't slip too much on gnarly
uphills and so far, at 40-50% of remaining tread, they don't.

How many miles do you get and on what tires?


tire life depends more on the cyclist/mechanic than the factory. Are
the wheels always TRUE ? bearings TIGHT ? are you scrubbing corners,
spinning rear without caws ?

but there's Pirelli....know several drivers mention Pirelli n they
convulse. I have a grudge on Michelin for designing a tread locks up
in puddles zzzzzzziiiiiiiiiiinnnnnnnnnnnnnnnng it went. deadly. cars
in ravines all over north yurp. then there's Badrich.....

Conti TT went from back sidewalls to brown 'gumwalls' losing weight
carrying capacity to gain response which was that Conti expletive
deleted an outstanding tire.


I just want a tire that lasts a long time. Or, if not available, one
that is cheaper and has similar performance. Hence my peek into what Vee
Rubber has to offer.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

wrote:
current tire question here is how wide ?

first rides with a Redline steel cyclocrosser mounted a 2.4 ?
Schwlabe BA on rear for soft surface floating. The BA was a boat
anchor. Was stolen by said oregoonians.

Mounted a 2.1 Vapor. Good.

Now looking find 47c tires at 1.65.\

Need to check the rim see if that width mounts a 1.65.

I feel squirrely thinking abt it

.5 inch loss with .25 rubber contact gain ?

My head is locked into big rubber.


Depends on where you ride. For me a 1.65" would definitely be worse than
2.1" because I have to ride a lot of gravel paths. That gravel can be
anything between what they have on railroad beds to "loose boulders". A
1.65" would hopelessly sink in just like most Cyclocross tires would.

You'll brobably also see a lot of downsides in mud, once winter sets in
we've got a lot of that.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/