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#21
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hex entry at the back of pedal
On 2018-09-30 01:02, news18 wrote:
On Sat, 29 Sep 2018 19:49:42 -0400, Frank Krygowski wrote: was skeptical about its adequacy when we first got the bikes, but I've used it many times without problems. Pedal spindles tend to self-tighten into the crank arms anyway. Getting them out is more of a problem than tightening them sufficiently. IME, I found a touch of grease on the thread makes it easier to remove them when required without resaorting to major toolage. It is part of my regular bearing maintenance. Miss! MISS!! He put grease on his threads Miss! Tell him Miss, tell him!! |
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#22
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hex entry at the back of pedal
jbeattie wrote:
I'm not sure if I'm following, but all you do is put an 8mm hex socket on your torque wrench. https://images.homedepot-static.com/...77-64_1000.jpg Or buy an el-cheapo 8mm pedal wrench and just give it a good hard push. Right, that's a much better idea than the open end spanner approach. Maybe others have a more scientific approach. Well, not me, I never thought of pedals in terms of torque before David Scheidt mentioned 35-40nm, but it can be fun to do. When I did the single speed steel bikes I always used the torque wrench to put the wheel axle dome nuts in 28-32nm, because that was what Shimano recommended for their coaster brakes. I never met anyone else who bothered, but I thought the torque wrench (with deep weel sockets, 14 or 15mm) was just an interesting tool -- underground experts united http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573 |
#23
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hex entry at the back of pedal
BTW I just checked the pedals which I replaced
the fancy ones with and they don't come with an allen/hex broach anywhere on the pedal spindle/axle, or anywhere else for that matter Maybe this is yet another indication how much, or little, people care about the exact pedal torque -- underground experts united http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573 |
#24
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hex entry at the back of pedal
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#25
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hex entry at the back of pedal
Emanuel Berg wrote:
: (with deep weel sockets :*wall well. deep well socket, https://www.irwin.com/tools/impact-a...p-well-sockets -- sig 61 |
#26
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hex entry at the back of pedal
On 9/29/2018 11:12 AM, AMuzi wrote:
On 9/29/2018 12:59 PM, Emanuel Berg wrote: Today I replaced the pedals on a modern bike with regular ones, which are just commodity items from the hardware store. The modern pedals are too short and, without using such shoes, the interface to fixate them becomes an uncomfortable blob under the foot. Anyway first thing I noticed was an entry for a hex key at the back of the pedal "screw block" (?) I removed the pedals just like a would with the single speed, old steel bikes, i.e. a long pipe, a 15mm wrench, a string to hold the crank to the chainstay, CRC 5-56 (probably not needed even), left pedal LT, right pedal regular, and so very little force needed for the pedal to come loose. So what is the reason for the hex entry and when do you use it? BTW does anyone have an image with pedal parts and terminology? I image googled but didn't find anything to that end. Pedal spindle (or axle - people use both terms) with allen broach: https://outdoorgearlab-mvnab3pwrvp3t...46_3693_XL.jpg offers faster assembly: http://i.ebayimg.com/00/$%28KGrHqZ,!lIE2EP64yPuBNhl+JMIDw~~_35.JPG?set_id= 8800005007 Fully tighten, or break free to remove, with 15mm pedal wrench. Some pedals omit the wrench flats and have an 8mm allen broach only on the inside. And some pedals (~10 year old Time ATAC) omit the wrench flats and have a /6mm/ allen socket (broach?) only on the inside. It's a bad design, IMHO, and the 8mm socket works far better. Mark J. |
#27
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hex entry at the back of pedal
David Scheidt wrote:
well. deep well socket From now on I'll stop correcting my own typos. Actually they are not really typos BTW. I do it in my speech all the time, e.g., say "tanks a lot" instead of "thanks". Something with my brain that doesn't click. Well, I suppose I trivial problem in the grande scheme of things. -- underground experts united http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573 |
#28
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hex entry at the back of pedal
well.
deep well socket From now on I'll stop correcting my own typos. Actually they are not really typos BTW. I do it in my speech all the time, e.g., say "tanks a lot" instead of "thanks". Something with my brain that doesn't click. Well, I suppose I trivial problem in the grande scheme *a trivial problem. Case in point -- underground experts united http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573 |
#29
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hex entry at the back of pedal
On 2018-09-29 14:01, jbeattie wrote:
On Saturday, September 29, 2018 at 1:19:02 PM UTC-7, Joerg wrote: On 2018-09-29 13:12, jbeattie wrote: On Saturday, September 29, 2018 at 12:36:21 PM UTC-7, Joerg wrote: On 2018-09-29 11:12, AMuzi wrote: On 9/29/2018 12:59 PM, Emanuel Berg wrote: Today I replaced the pedals on a modern bike with regular ones, which are just commodity items from the hardware store. The modern pedals are too short and, without using such shoes, the interface to fixate them becomes an uncomfortable blob under the foot. You aren't supposed to ride click pedals with regular shoes :-) Anyway first thing I noticed was an entry for a hex key at the back of the pedal "screw block" (?) I removed the pedals just like a would with the single speed, old steel bikes, i.e. a long pipe, a 15mm wrench, a string to hold the crank to the chainstay, CRC 5-56 (probably not needed even), left pedal LT, right pedal regular, and so very little force needed for the pedal to come loose. So what is the reason for the hex entry and when do you use it? BTW does anyone have an image with pedal parts and terminology? I image googled but didn't find anything to that end. Pedal spindle (or axle - people use both terms) with allen broach: https://outdoorgearlab-mvnab3pwrvp3t...46_3693_XL.jpg offers faster assembly: http://i.ebayimg.com/00/$%28KGrHqZ,!lIE2EP64yPuBNhl+JMIDw~~_35.JPG?set_id= 8800005007 Or use a power drill with an allen bit in there, faster. We even use a power drill to make bread dough. Fully tighten, or break free to remove, with 15mm pedal wrench. Some pedals omit the wrench flats and have an 8mm allen broach only on the inside. That sounds scary, I'd never buy those. 8mm ist too wimpy for a nice tight fit. Virtually every rider in the pro peleton has pedals tightened with an 8mm hex wrench. https://www.excelsports.com/assets/z...y/112594-5.jpg It's not a problem. But those guys don't weigh over 200lbs :-) Yah, but the pros produce two or three times your power and a much higher seated crank bending load than you do. I raced for years at the 200lb mark and bent or broke some pedal spindles -- with flats (early Look and early DuraAce which were re-branded Look). I've never had a problem with the 8mm hex spindle on recent Looks or the XT level Shimano SPD pedals that are hex-only. Those things are bullet proof. Plenty of big boys ride the Shimano road pedals. The design is inconvenient, but it is not scary or dangerous. True, it shouldn't present a danger. It just doesn't make much sense. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ |
#30
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hex entry at the back of pedal
On 2018-09-29, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-09-29 13:12, jbeattie wrote: On Saturday, September 29, 2018 at 12:36:21 PM UTC-7, Joerg wrote: On 2018-09-29 11:12, AMuzi wrote: Some pedals omit the wrench flats and have an 8mm allen broach only on the inside. It's just inconvenient as compared to the old days of wrench flats. It sure looks like it but probably shaves off a couple of grams in weight so you can arrive 200 microseconds earlier than the other guy. Right. It's a buffer so you can use 500ms posting-up before the line. http://****yeahwhoops.tumblr.com/ -- Gregory S. Sutter Mostly Harmless http://zer0.org/~gsutter/ |
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