Name of screw that holds the rear brake cable

On 8/20/2019 1:38 AM, AK wrote:
On Monday, August 19, 2019 at 2:16:45 AM UTC-5, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Monday, August 19, 2019 at 2:15:04 AM UTC-4, Chalo wrote:
Jeff Liebermann wrote:

I suspect you can't afford the very best, but you can borrow the list
of tools and buy the equivalent tools online or at your local hardware
store as you need them.

Normally this is very sound advice. But in the case of owning a Huffy, the first and much more important priority is to locate and acquire a real bike that was designed and constructed to be ridden. The Huffy already performed the only job it was ever intended to do when the initial purchaser paid money for it. After that, it's best for it to be recycled immediately into something possibly useful.

Not everyone can afford a more expensive bike at the time of purchase; therefore they get a cheaper bike at first, figure out the kind of riding they want to mostly and also their future wants/needs and then they buy a better bike later when finances allow it.

Cheers

I have started saving up for a more durable bike.

I hope to find one for around $300 - $500.

I would like both front and rear brakes to be disc.

So... why disc? Do you ride in rain a lot?


--
- Frank Krygowski

AK wrote:

I have started saving up for a more durable bike.

I hope to find one for around $300 - $500.

I would like both front and rear brakes to be disc.

You won't get a very durable bike for your money if you only pay up to $500 and you insist on dual discs. Under $500, there are pretty vicious cost compromises, and any part that raises the cost of one component must be balanced by trade-offs in other components. Disc brakes raise the costs of frame, fork, wheel hubs, and of course the brakes themselves. They make the wheels weaker, which means adding more cost to bring the strength of the wheels back to the same level (or at your price point, simply accepting weaker wheels).

The kind of disc brakes you'll find on a sub-$500 bike don't work better or require less attention than decent rim brakes. Don't assume that normal rim brakes are like what's on your Huffy. $20 retail can buy you a good strong, reliable and low-maintenance V-brake that will nicely outperform a cheap disc brake, but it won't buy any kind of disc brake at all.

On 8/20/2019 1:04 PM, Chalo wrote:
AK wrote:

I have started saving up for a more durable bike.

I hope to find one for around $300 - $500.

I would like both front and rear brakes to be disc.

You won't get a very durable bike for your money if you only pay up to $500 and you insist on dual discs. Under $500, there are pretty vicious cost compromises, and any part that raises the cost of one component must be balanced by trade-offs in other components. Disc brakes raise the costs of frame, fork, wheel hubs, and of course the brakes themselves. They make the wheels weaker, which means adding more cost to bring the strength of the wheels back to the same level (or at your price point, simply accepting weaker wheels).

The kind of disc brakes you'll find on a sub-$500 bike don't work better or require less attention than decent rim brakes. Don't assume that normal rim brakes are like what's on your Huffy. $20 retail can buy you a good strong, reliable and low-maintenance V-brake that will nicely outperform a cheap disc brake, but it won't buy any kind of disc brake at all.


I respectfully disagree:

https://www.reidbikes.com/product/mtb-pro-disc/

Win national ranked offroad races? Maybe not.
Go to work dependably and weekends on trails? Sure no problem.

As in all things, setup lubrication and prep varies widely
among dealers from nearly nothing to correct prep.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On Tuesday, August 20, 2019 at 9:07:09 AM UTC-5, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 8/20/2019 1:38 AM, AK wrote:
On Monday, August 19, 2019 at 2:16:45 AM UTC-5, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Monday, August 19, 2019 at 2:15:04 AM UTC-4, Chalo wrote:
Jeff Liebermann wrote:

I suspect you can't afford the very best, but you can borrow the list
of tools and buy the equivalent tools online or at your local hardware
store as you need them.

Normally this is very sound advice. But in the case of owning a Huffy, the first and much more important priority is to locate and acquire a real bike that was designed and constructed to be ridden. The Huffy already performed the only job it was ever intended to do when the initial purchaser paid money for it. After that, it's best for it to be recycled immediately into something possibly useful.

Not everyone can afford a more expensive bike at the time of purchase; therefore they get a cheaper bike at first, figure out the kind of riding they want to mostly and also their future wants/needs and then they buy a better bike later when finances allow it.

Cheers

I have started saving up for a more durable bike.

I hope to find one for around $300 - $500.

I would like both front and rear brakes to be disc.

So... why disc? Do you ride in rain a lot?


--
- Frank Krygowski

Disc brakes are far easier to adjust.

And to me, they stop faster than traditional brakes.

Andy

On Tuesday, August 20, 2019 at 1:13:30 PM UTC-5, AMuzi wrote:
On 8/20/2019 1:04 PM, Chalo wrote:
AK wrote:

I have started saving up for a more durable bike.

I hope to find one for around $300 - $500.

I would like both front and rear brakes to be disc.

You won't get a very durable bike for your money if you only pay up to $500 and you insist on dual discs. Under $500, there are pretty vicious cost compromises, and any part that raises the cost of one component must be balanced by trade-offs in other components. Disc brakes raise the costs of frame, fork, wheel hubs, and of course the brakes themselves. They make the wheels weaker, which means adding more cost to bring the strength of the wheels back to the same level (or at your price point, simply accepting weaker wheels).

The kind of disc brakes you'll find on a sub-$500 bike don't work better or require less attention than decent rim brakes. Don't assume that normal rim brakes are like what's on your Huffy. $20 retail can buy you a good strong, reliable and low-maintenance V-brake that will nicely outperform a cheap disc brake, but it won't buy any kind of disc brake at all.


I respectfully disagree:

https://www.reidbikes.com/product/mtb-pro-disc/

Win national ranked offroad races? Maybe not.
Go to work dependably and weekends on trails? Sure no problem.

As in all things, setup lubrication and prep varies widely
among dealers from nearly nothing to correct prep.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

Thanks. Found one for $369.

I saw a slightly used Specialized MTB 24 speed in a shop for $500.

Andy

On 8/20/2019 1:54 PM, AK wrote:
On Tuesday, August 20, 2019 at 1:13:30 PM UTC-5, AMuzi wrote:
On 8/20/2019 1:04 PM, Chalo wrote:
AK wrote:

I have started saving up for a more durable bike.

I hope to find one for around $300 - $500.

I would like both front and rear brakes to be disc.

You won't get a very durable bike for your money if you only pay up to $500 and you insist on dual discs. Under $500, there are pretty vicious cost compromises, and any part that raises the cost of one component must be balanced by trade-offs in other components. Disc brakes raise the costs of frame, fork, wheel hubs, and of course the brakes themselves. They make the wheels weaker, which means adding more cost to bring the strength of the wheels back to the same level (or at your price point, simply accepting weaker wheels).

The kind of disc brakes you'll find on a sub-$500 bike don't work better or require less attention than decent rim brakes. Don't assume that normal rim brakes are like what's on your Huffy. $20 retail can buy you a good strong, reliable and low-maintenance V-brake that will nicely outperform a cheap disc brake, but it won't buy any kind of disc brake at all.


I respectfully disagree:

https://www.reidbikes.com/product/mtb-pro-disc/

Win national ranked offroad races? Maybe not.
Go to work dependably and weekends on trails? Sure no problem.

As in all things, setup lubrication and prep varies widely
among dealers from nearly nothing to correct prep.


Thanks. Found one for $369.

I saw a slightly used Specialized MTB 24 speed in a shop for $500.

Andy


Likely equivalent bike, maybe from the same factory.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On 8/20/2019 2:46 PM, AK wrote:
On Tuesday, August 20, 2019 at 9:07:09 AM UTC-5, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 8/20/2019 1:38 AM, AK wrote:
On Monday, August 19, 2019 at 2:16:45 AM UTC-5, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Monday, August 19, 2019 at 2:15:04 AM UTC-4, Chalo wrote:
Jeff Liebermann wrote:

I suspect you can't afford the very best, but you can borrow the list
of tools and buy the equivalent tools online or at your local hardware
store as you need them.

Normally this is very sound advice. But in the case of owning a Huffy, the first and much more important priority is to locate and acquire a real bike that was designed and constructed to be ridden. The Huffy already performed the only job it was ever intended to do when the initial purchaser paid money for it. After that, it's best for it to be recycled immediately into something possibly useful.

Not everyone can afford a more expensive bike at the time of purchase; therefore they get a cheaper bike at first, figure out the kind of riding they want to mostly and also their future wants/needs and then they buy a better bike later when finances allow it.

Cheers

I have started saving up for a more durable bike.

I hope to find one for around $300 - $500.

I would like both front and rear brakes to be disc.

So... why disc? Do you ride in rain a lot?


--
- Frank Krygowski

Disc brakes are far easier to adjust.

Hmm. Well, if you say so. But you may want to review this "how to" video
just in case:

https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair...rake-alignment

And to me, they stop faster than traditional brakes.

Perhaps yes, perhaps no.

They are trendy, though! That's usually all that matters.

--
- Frank Krygowski

On Monday, August 19, 2019 at 9:28:56 AM UTC-7, Chalo wrote:
Tom Kunich wrote:

https://imgur.com/a/JT76Qog

That is a standard "Internal Wrenching Bolt"

This made me laugh. It says so much with so few words. It even hints at an explanation (not to say excuse) for your politics.

A perhaps more widely understood technical term would be "M6 x 1.0 x 12 socket head cap screw".

Chalo - no one knows the size of these things if they're asking about it. It is a STANDARD type of screw that can be bought in any fully equipped Ace Hardware Store anywhere in the US.

By the way - It is NOT a "cap screw". It is as I said, and Internal Wrenching Bolt. Now they are often mislabeled and you'd find a Cap Screw in the wrong bin.

On Tue, 20 Aug 2019 01:39:44 -0700 (PDT), Sir Ridesalot
wrote:

On Tuesday, 20 August 2019 04:14:45 UTC-4, John B. Slocomb wrote:
On Mon, 19 Aug 2019 22:06:04 -0400, Frank Krygowski
wrote:

On 8/19/2019 11:54 AM, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Sunday, August 18, 2019 at 5:35:56 PM UTC-7, AK wrote:
The opening in the hex screw that holds the rear brake cable has become much looser than it used to be. What is the name of the part so I can order another one? (Hopefully they have some made of harder steel.)

https://imgur.com/a/JT76Qog

That is a standard "Internal Wrenching Bolt" and is probably available at your nearest Ace Hardware store in the Metric area.

Tom should go into a specialty fastener store (or just a good hardware
store) and ask for an "Internal Wrenching Bolt."

Please report back on the look on the proprietor's face.

The proper terminology is "one of them there thangs" :-)

--

Cheers,

John B.

I worked at a mine and one day a guy came into the tool crib and asked for a part. His description of the part. "The whatcamacallit that fits on the doohickey that goes on the thingamajig." I was amazed that the guy in the tool crib handed him the part he needed. Apparently that part broke frequently.

A lot of times, not knowing the terminology of bicycle things makes it very difficult for those who'd like to help a person with the questions.

Cheers

Old car parts guys are/were much the same. You'd walk in the door with
this grotty, broken, dirty, hunk of iron, and the guy would look up
and, from across the room, say "Oh Yes, front steering knuckle on the
1937 pickup". "Charley! There is one on shelf 113/B".
--

Cheers,

John B.

On 8/20/2019 5:25 PM, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Monday, August 19, 2019 at 9:28:56 AM UTC-7, Chalo wrote:
Tom Kunich wrote:

https://imgur.com/a/JT76Qog

That is a standard "Internal Wrenching Bolt"

This made me laugh. It says so much with so few words. It even hints at an explanation (not to say excuse) for your politics.

A perhaps more widely understood technical term would be "M6 x 1.0 x 12 socket head cap screw".

Chalo - no one knows the size of these things if they're asking about it. It is a STANDARD type of screw that can be bought in any fully equipped Ace Hardware Store anywhere in the US.

By the way - It is NOT a "cap screw". It is as I said, and Internal Wrenching Bolt. Now they are often mislabeled and you'd find a Cap Screw in the wrong bin.


Yes. V-brake anchor bolts have an oddly shaped head but an
actual DIN #912 cap screw would both fit and are readily
available anywhere.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971