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#11
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average lifespan of a rear derailleur
Frank Krygowski wrote:
I believe it's because with fewer speeds, there's usually more space between the cogs. .... OK? What's the implication of that? Does the chain nag the sprocket if it moves more closely from one to the other when shifting? Surely, when you are just pedaling, there is no "collateral damage" to other sprockets?! I have one folding bike that has nine rear cogs and index shifting. I find that folding and unfolding the bike sometimes upsets the index shifting for a while, until things settle down. I assume it's because of the flexing of the long shift cable housings. I doubt that would make a practical difference if the cogs were spaced wider, with fewer speeds. Are there such robust 5 or 6 casettes to buy today, new? I think I would like a 1x bike with such a casette, for urban use and infrequent shifting with focus on reliability and sustainability... Not for any real functional advantage compared to the coaster brake, just to make it a bit more fun/exciting to ride. BTW what chain would you then use? 7.8mm? And what chain for the Shimano Positron 2x5? -- underground experts united http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573 |
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#13
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average lifespan of a rear derailleur
I'm wondering if the fact that I wet lube the pivots might be beckoning the grit into the joints- accelerating the demise of the pivot pins. Perhaps I should be lubing with a dry lube or very sparingly... Must be some reason (other than I'm buying crap) for the pivots to get sloppy so fast!
Regards,Pat |
#14
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average lifespan of a rear derailleur
On 2018-01-30 06:11, AMuzi wrote:
On 1/30/2018 6:56 AM, patrick wrote: I bought a used but never assembled performer recumbent bike (one of 2 the guy was selling) and apparently he mixed the components- I got a sram x5 derailleur and a sram attack shifter (meant for shimano derailleur). Since I have mostly shimano stuff, I used a miscroshift der (actually a rebranded performance forte der. I got 10,000 miles on that before the pivots had been worn to the point of giving very sloppyy shifting. I then went up a grade to the xe marvo der. and am now another 20,000 miles further down the road with the der approaching the same worn pivots. since I haven't used a shimano deore on it (9sp BTW), am considering using one - nother 10 dollars or so more money for the deore. Am I expecting too much in mileage for a rear derailleur?I ride in sunny southern california on riverbed mup trails- typically about 150 miles/week. The trails are swept once a week so there's always a fine grit that's deposited on the bike and I'm pretty good on the maintanence of the b ike so the wear isn't from abuse or neglect. Thanks, Pat Deore are better than most in longevity, about as tough a changer as there is nowadays. Until a fist-sized rock gets kicked up by the front wheel and flies into it. Though I have to say that I was able to bend the Deore derailer on my MTB back many times. It looks horrid but so far still shifts ok. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ |
#15
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average lifespan of a rear derailleur
On 31/01/18 11:38, patrick wrote:
I'm wondering if the fact that I wet lube the pivots might be beckoning the grit into the joints- accelerating the demise of the pivot pins. Perhaps I should be lubing with a dry lube or very sparingly... Must be some reason (other than I'm buying crap) for the pivots to get sloppy so fast! Regards,Pat Maybe. I very rarely do anything to derailleurs on my bicycles. I sometimes remove the jockey wheels to properly clean them and the cage, and lube the plain bearings with not runny lube. I took the main pivot/bolt out that connects the derailleur to the dropout, and there was nice clean grease in there still from the manufacturer. A little soapy water and fresh water rinse is all I use, and no high pressure cleaners. -- JS |
#16
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average lifespan of a rear derailleur
On Tuesday, January 30, 2018 at 9:22:07 AM UTC-8, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 1/30/2018 11:32 AM, Emanuel Berg wrote: sms wrote: Deore are better than most in longevity, about as tough a changer as there is nowadays. I had a Deore front shifter fail after only twelve years. Sounds like a long time, but it's on a mountain bike that I probably rode not more than 500 miles. Well, when you speak of how long something will last on a bike, do you typically refer to time, distance, riding style, weather conditions, all of the above, or something else? I'd say all of the above, which makes the concept of average life pretty meaningless. I'd expect the low end of the scale - except for mountain bikes - would be Jay Beattie's everyday commuting including steep hills and some forest paths in all kinds of weather. I'd expect the high end would be, well, a guy who rode only on level trails in nice dry Southern California. I'm currently using a 600EX front derailleur on my commuter. It's probably 30 years old, but it replaced a newer Ultegra derailleur. Oddly enough, I wore through the cage with chain rub. That's the deal when your bike is caked in mud. You don't notice chain rub, and I think the sheer number of shifts got it too. The 600EX is kludgy, but it works. It's my third or fourth front derailleur in the last 15 years. My RD is similar vintage, but only because I wore out a more modern Ultegra 10sp. It got so sloppy that it barely shifted after maybe five or six years. I'm running old 9sp shifters. The old 8sp derailleur works fine with 9sp shifters, but not great. Good enough. It's my third RD in the last 15 years. When I rebuilt the CX commuter with the new frame (after breaking the prior frame), I threw on a SRAM Red BB30 CF crank that I took off my broken SuperSix. This is what I hate about warranty replacements: my broken frame had a threaded BB, and the replacement is BB30, so I scavenged the BB30 crank off the SuperSix. That crank lasted six months on my commuter and then broke -- the pedal insert loosened and cracked through to the end of the crank arm. POS. I had an FSA do the same thing on another bike. I just put on a $95 105 crank with Wheels Mfg. adapters. That's the fifth crank in the last 15 years on my commuter. I changed the original out because it was ISIS, and I was blowing through BBs. The second was an Ultegra, and it broke (crank arm while out of the saddle). Third crank was a Praxis Works M30 taken off my Roubaix that was stolen. That crank is in a box because of the proprietary dimensions. I don't want to buy the special bearings. The SRAM Red broke. I've got boxes of old parts and use them on the commuter. It's a parts eater. If I upgrade to 10sp or above, I can't use all the old parts -- but I'm not going to upgrade until the shifters die, which may be never . . . or may be tomorrow. Another gripe is that the new frame is intended for hydraulic discs, and for cable discs, you have to use housing for the entire run, and it adds a lot of drag. -- Jay Beattie. |
#17
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average lifespan of a rear derailleur
On Wednesday, January 31, 2018 at 5:35:07 AM UTC+1, jbeattie wrote:
On Tuesday, January 30, 2018 at 9:22:07 AM UTC-8, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 1/30/2018 11:32 AM, Emanuel Berg wrote: sms wrote: Deore are better than most in longevity, about as tough a changer as there is nowadays. I had a Deore front shifter fail after only twelve years. Sounds like a long time, but it's on a mountain bike that I probably rode not more than 500 miles. Well, when you speak of how long something will last on a bike, do you typically refer to time, distance, riding style, weather conditions, all of the above, or something else? I'd say all of the above, which makes the concept of average life pretty meaningless. I'd expect the low end of the scale - except for mountain bikes - would be Jay Beattie's everyday commuting including steep hills and some forest paths in all kinds of weather. I'd expect the high end would be, well, a guy who rode only on level trails in nice dry Southern California. I'm currently using a 600EX front derailleur on my commuter. It's probably 30 years old, but it replaced a newer Ultegra derailleur. Oddly enough, I wore through the cage with chain rub. That's the deal when your bike is caked in mud. You don't notice chain rub, and I think the sheer number of shifts got it too. The 600EX is kludgy, but it works. It's my third or fourth front derailleur in the last 15 years. My RD is similar vintage, but only because I wore out a more modern Ultegra 10sp. It got so sloppy that it barely shifted after maybe five or six years. I'm running old 9sp shifters. The old 8sp derailleur works fine with 9sp shifters, but not great. Good enough. It's my third RD in the last 15 years. When I rebuilt the CX commuter with the new frame (after breaking the prior frame), I threw on a SRAM Red BB30 CF crank that I took off my broken SuperSix. This is what I hate about warranty replacements: my broken frame had a threaded BB, and the replacement is BB30, so I scavenged the BB30 crank off the SuperSix. That crank lasted six months on my commuter and then broke -- the pedal insert loosened and cracked through to the end of the crank arm. POS. I had an FSA do the same thing on another bike. I just put on a $95 105 crank with Wheels Mfg. adapters. That's the fifth crank in the last 15 years on my commuter. I changed the original out because it was ISIS, and I was blowing through BBs. The second was an Ultegra, and it broke (crank arm while out of the saddle). Third crank was a Praxis Works M30 taken off my Roubaix that was stolen. That crank is in a box because of the proprietary dimensions. I don't want to buy the special bearings. The SRAM Red broke. I've got boxes of old parts and use them on the commuter. It's a parts eater. If I upgrade to 10sp or above, I can't use all the old parts -- but I'm not going to upgrade until the shifters die, which may be never . . . or may be tomorrow. Another gripe is that the new frame is intended for hydraulic discs, and for cable discs, you have to use housing for the entire run, and it adds a lot of drag. -- Jay Beattie. Wow.. I never wore out a RD except for the jockey wheels, only one FD, never broke a crank or pedals. Maybe that is the advantage of living in a dead flat country where I shift maybe 2-4 times a ride. On the other hand off road I shift the crap out of my RD. A Deore 9 speed RD cost 30-35 euro on this side of the pond. Great value for money and I would not go for less. With that kind of money I would not worry about a lifetime of 10000 miles. Lou |
#18
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average lifespan of a rear derailleur
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#19
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average lifespan of a rear derailleur
On Tuesday, January 30, 2018 at 11:23:40 PM UTC-8, wrote:
On Wednesday, January 31, 2018 at 5:35:07 AM UTC+1, jbeattie wrote: On Tuesday, January 30, 2018 at 9:22:07 AM UTC-8, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 1/30/2018 11:32 AM, Emanuel Berg wrote: sms wrote: Deore are better than most in longevity, about as tough a changer as there is nowadays. I had a Deore front shifter fail after only twelve years. Sounds like a long time, but it's on a mountain bike that I probably rode not more than 500 miles. Well, when you speak of how long something will last on a bike, do you typically refer to time, distance, riding style, weather conditions, all of the above, or something else? I'd say all of the above, which makes the concept of average life pretty meaningless. I'd expect the low end of the scale - except for mountain bikes - would be Jay Beattie's everyday commuting including steep hills and some forest paths in all kinds of weather. I'd expect the high end would be, well, a guy who rode only on level trails in nice dry Southern California. I'm currently using a 600EX front derailleur on my commuter. It's probably 30 years old, but it replaced a newer Ultegra derailleur. Oddly enough, I wore through the cage with chain rub. That's the deal when your bike is caked in mud. You don't notice chain rub, and I think the sheer number of shifts got it too. The 600EX is kludgy, but it works. It's my third or fourth front derailleur in the last 15 years. My RD is similar vintage, but only because I wore out a more modern Ultegra 10sp. It got so sloppy that it barely shifted after maybe five or six years. I'm running old 9sp shifters. The old 8sp derailleur works fine with 9sp shifters, but not great. Good enough. It's my third RD in the last 15 years. When I rebuilt the CX commuter with the new frame (after breaking the prior frame), I threw on a SRAM Red BB30 CF crank that I took off my broken SuperSix. This is what I hate about warranty replacements: my broken frame had a threaded BB, and the replacement is BB30, so I scavenged the BB30 crank off the SuperSix. That crank lasted six months on my commuter and then broke -- the pedal insert loosened and cracked through to the end of the crank arm. POS. I had an FSA do the same thing on another bike. I just put on a $95 105 crank with Wheels Mfg. adapters. That's the fifth crank in the last 15 years on my commuter. I changed the original out because it was ISIS, and I was blowing through BBs. The second was an Ultegra, and it broke (crank arm while out of the saddle). Third crank was a Praxis Works M30 taken off my Roubaix that was stolen. That crank is in a box because of the proprietary dimensions. I don't want to buy the special bearings. The SRAM Red broke. I've got boxes of old parts and use them on the commuter. It's a parts eater. If I upgrade to 10sp or above, I can't use all the old parts -- but I'm not going to upgrade until the shifters die, which may be never . . . or may be tomorrow. Another gripe is that the new frame is intended for hydraulic discs, and for cable discs, you have to use housing for the entire run, and it adds a lot of drag. -- Jay Beattie. Wow.. I never wore out a RD except for the jockey wheels, only one FD, never broke a crank or pedals. Maybe that is the advantage of living in a dead flat country where I shift maybe 2-4 times a ride. On the other hand off road I shift the crap out of my RD. A Deore 9 speed RD cost 30-35 euro on this side of the pond. Great value for money and I would not go for less. With that kind of money I would not worry about a lifetime of 10000 miles. You're better at maintaining your bike. I'll ride for months in the rain and do nothing but lube the chain -- and then fix things if they break. I think water and grit really kill RDs. -- Jay Beattie. |
#20
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average lifespan of a rear derailleur
On 1/30/2018 8:35 PM, jbeattie wrote:
When I rebuilt the CX commuter with the new frame (after breaking the prior frame), I threw on a SRAM Red BB30 CF crank that I took off my broken SuperSix. This is what I hate about warranty replacements: my broken frame had a threaded BB, and the replacement is BB30, so I scavenged the BB30 crank off the SuperSix. That crank lasted six months on my commuter and then broke -- the pedal insert loosened and cracked through to the end of the crank arm. POS. I had an FSA do the same thing on another bike. I just put on a $95 105 crank with Wheels Mfg. adapters. That's the fifth crank in the last 15 years on my commuter. I changed the original out because it was ISIS, and I was blowing through BBs. The second was an Ultegra, and it broke (crank arm while out of the saddle). I thought I was reading a post from Joerg. You obviously are very hard on your equipment. Broken frames, broken cranks, broken pedal inserts. Have you considered a steel frame with more robust components? |
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