14 year-old Campy Record shifts like new...

On 5/13/2017 12:38 AM, Tim McNamara wrote:
On Mon, 8 May 2017 04:26:17 -0700 (PDT), Sir Ridesalot
wrote:
On Sunday, May 7, 2017 at 3:53:29 PM UTC-4, Robert Latest wrote:
...after I properly re-sorted the spacers in the rear cassette. Duh.

robert

It's pretty amazing how well a lot of the 1980s (or a lot earlier)
stuff still works if it's maintained reasnonably well rather than
abused.

I see people riding 70's bikes every day around here, apparently for
practical transportation judging by street clothes instead of athletic
stuff. Makes me smile.

I have acquaintances who ride bikes from the 30s-40s-50s (mostly old
British stuff) quite often. Couple drops of oil every so often and
those old S-A hubs will practically run forever.


+1

And if not 'forever' at least 'lifetime' after which who cares?

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On 5/12/2017 9:07 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 12 May 2017 18:08:37 -0400, Frank Krygowski
wrote:

On 5/12/2017 3:42 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 12 May 2017 14:53:39 -0400, Frank Krygowski
wrote:

On 5/11/2017 9:51 PM, John B. wrote:
On Thu, 11 May 2017 12:27:26 -0400, Frank Krygowski
wrote:

On 5/10/2017 10:56 PM, John B. wrote:
On Wed, 10 May 2017 20:13:56 -0400, Frank Krygowski
wrote:

On 5/10/2017 7:59 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 10 May 2017 07:28:24 -0700, Joerg
wrote:



One thing that I learned early on in bicycling was that offroad just
about anything will vibrate loose. Another bike rider who ventured into
the woods back then told me to slightly over-torque every connection.
That did the trick but does not work for a headset.


One thing that DOES work is the light or medium Loc Tite. Not the
stuff you need a torch to release. A drop on every part that might
otherwise ahake loos will even keep an old BSA or Norton from shedding
parts.

I'm a big believer in Loctite. Jobst wasn't, but I never understood why.

Probably as in most cases it isn't necessary.

As I recall, Jobst went further, saying something like "There is no
appropriate use for Loctite on a bicycle."

My fender and rack mounts staunchly disagree.

Well, Jobst was a little dogmatic... even when proven wrong... but I
don't use loctite and my fender stays have never loosened. But I do
use socket headed bolts, which may make a bit of a difference in
tightening torque, i.e, the difference in "feel" between a one inch
diameter screwdriver handle and a 2.5 inch allen wrench.

For me, fender mounting screws are the most common self-loosening
fastener, even though I use allen head screws. Loctite does fix it, but
on some bikes I haven't Loctited them yet, probably because "most
common" is still not terribly common.
NyLock nuts are a more elegant solution ---

My dropouts have tapped holes for the screws. That means I generally
don't use nuts.

Way back when I had just one bike, I used no fenders unless it was
likely to be wet, and I definitely removed them for time trials or long
(dry) rides. So I fitted my fenders for quick release. For a time, I
used the trick of threading screws permanently through from the inside
of the dropouts toward the outside, so they acted like studes. I then
used wing nuts to fasten the fenders in place on those studs.

But now I just leave the fenders on all the time.

(I don't think I've ever seen a Nylock wing nut.)
Then you haven't looked very hard.

True. I've never felt the need to look for one.


--
- Frank Krygowski

On 5/13/2017 1:38 AM, Tim McNamara wrote:
On Mon, 8 May 2017 04:26:17 -0700 (PDT), Sir Ridesalot
wrote:
On Sunday, May 7, 2017 at 3:53:29 PM UTC-4, Robert Latest wrote:
...after I properly re-sorted the spacers in the rear cassette. Duh.

robert

It's pretty amazing how well a lot of the 1980s (or a lot earlier)
stuff still works if it's maintained reasnonably well rather than
abused.

I see people riding 70's bikes every day around here, apparently for
practical transportation judging by street clothes instead of athletic
stuff. Makes me smile.

Well then, I'd make you smile!

I have acquaintances who ride bikes from the 30s-40s-50s (mostly old
British stuff) quite often. Couple drops of oil every so often and
those old S-A hubs will practically run forever.

Sadly, I mangled the shift cable on my S-A 3 speed yesterday. I somehow
managed to snag it with my heel, and it tangled in the chain and crank.
:-(

The cable's the only thing that's given trouble with this drivetrain
since I installed it. But I'm not going to trade it for a kick-back 2
speed.


--
- Frank Krygowski

On Fri, 12 May 2017 21:57:29 -0700, John B. Slocomb
wrote:

On Fri, 12 May 2017 14:53:39 -0400, Frank Krygowski
wrote:

On 5/11/2017 9:51 PM, John B. wrote:
On Thu, 11 May 2017 12:27:26 -0400, Frank Krygowski
wrote:

On 5/10/2017 10:56 PM, John B. wrote:
On Wed, 10 May 2017 20:13:56 -0400, Frank Krygowski
wrote:

On 5/10/2017 7:59 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 10 May 2017 07:28:24 -0700, Joerg
wrote:



One thing that I learned early on in bicycling was that offroad just
about anything will vibrate loose. Another bike rider who ventured into
the woods back then told me to slightly over-torque every connection.
That did the trick but does not work for a headset.


One thing that DOES work is the light or medium Loc Tite. Not the
stuff you need a torch to release. A drop on every part that might
otherwise ahake loos will even keep an old BSA or Norton from shedding
parts.

I'm a big believer in Loctite. Jobst wasn't, but I never understood why.

Probably as in most cases it isn't necessary.

As I recall, Jobst went further, saying something like "There is no
appropriate use for Loctite on a bicycle."

My fender and rack mounts staunchly disagree.

Well, Jobst was a little dogmatic... even when proven wrong... but I
don't use loctite and my fender stays have never loosened. But I do
use socket headed bolts, which may make a bit of a difference in
tightening torque, i.e, the difference in "feel" between a one inch
diameter screwdriver handle and a 2.5 inch allen wrench.

For me, fender mounting screws are the most common self-loosening
fastener, even though I use allen head screws. Loctite does fix it, but
on some bikes I haven't Loctited them yet, probably because "most
common" is still not terribly common.

What I do, which seems to work, is to use two flat washers, one
between the stay and the dropout and one between the stay and the
screw head. I'm not sure whether this is logical or not but so far my
fenders haven't fallen off :-)
Mechanically sound. You are keeping vibration in the stay from acting
directly on the head of the screw and increasing the direct friction
between the stay and the dropout,and the screw and the stay so the
screw doesn't work loose.

On Sat, 13 May 2017 10:27:01 -0400, Frank Krygowski
wrote:

On 5/12/2017 9:07 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 12 May 2017 18:08:37 -0400, Frank Krygowski
wrote:

On 5/12/2017 3:42 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 12 May 2017 14:53:39 -0400, Frank Krygowski
wrote:

On 5/11/2017 9:51 PM, John B. wrote:
On Thu, 11 May 2017 12:27:26 -0400, Frank Krygowski
wrote:

On 5/10/2017 10:56 PM, John B. wrote:
On Wed, 10 May 2017 20:13:56 -0400, Frank Krygowski
wrote:

On 5/10/2017 7:59 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 10 May 2017 07:28:24 -0700, Joerg
wrote:



One thing that I learned early on in bicycling was that offroad just
about anything will vibrate loose. Another bike rider who ventured into
the woods back then told me to slightly over-torque every connection.
That did the trick but does not work for a headset.


One thing that DOES work is the light or medium Loc Tite. Not the
stuff you need a torch to release. A drop on every part that might
otherwise ahake loos will even keep an old BSA or Norton from shedding
parts.

I'm a big believer in Loctite. Jobst wasn't, but I never understood why.

Probably as in most cases it isn't necessary.

As I recall, Jobst went further, saying something like "There is no
appropriate use for Loctite on a bicycle."

My fender and rack mounts staunchly disagree.

Well, Jobst was a little dogmatic... even when proven wrong... but I
don't use loctite and my fender stays have never loosened. But I do
use socket headed bolts, which may make a bit of a difference in
tightening torque, i.e, the difference in "feel" between a one inch
diameter screwdriver handle and a 2.5 inch allen wrench.

For me, fender mounting screws are the most common self-loosening
fastener, even though I use allen head screws. Loctite does fix it, but
on some bikes I haven't Loctited them yet, probably because "most
common" is still not terribly common.
NyLock nuts are a more elegant solution ---

My dropouts have tapped holes for the screws. That means I generally
don't use nuts.

Way back when I had just one bike, I used no fenders unless it was
likely to be wet, and I definitely removed them for time trials or long
(dry) rides. So I fitted my fenders for quick release. For a time, I
used the trick of threading screws permanently through from the inside
of the dropouts toward the outside, so they acted like studes. I then
used wing nuts to fasten the fenders in place on those studs.

But now I just leave the fenders on all the time.

(I don't think I've ever seen a Nylock wing nut.)
Then you haven't looked very hard.

True. I've never felt the need to look for one.

I've always thought that the purpose of a wing nut was to allow easy
removal :-)
--
Cheers,

John B.

On Sat, 13 May 2017 20:43:25 -0700, John B. Slocomb
wrote:

On Sat, 13 May 2017 10:27:01 -0400, Frank Krygowski
wrote:

On 5/12/2017 9:07 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 12 May 2017 18:08:37 -0400, Frank Krygowski
wrote:

On 5/12/2017 3:42 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 12 May 2017 14:53:39 -0400, Frank Krygowski
wrote:

On 5/11/2017 9:51 PM, John B. wrote:
On Thu, 11 May 2017 12:27:26 -0400, Frank Krygowski
wrote:

On 5/10/2017 10:56 PM, John B. wrote:
On Wed, 10 May 2017 20:13:56 -0400, Frank Krygowski
wrote:

On 5/10/2017 7:59 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 10 May 2017 07:28:24 -0700, Joerg
wrote:



One thing that I learned early on in bicycling was that offroad just
about anything will vibrate loose. Another bike rider who ventured into
the woods back then told me to slightly over-torque every connection.
That did the trick but does not work for a headset.


One thing that DOES work is the light or medium Loc Tite. Not the
stuff you need a torch to release. A drop on every part that might
otherwise ahake loos will even keep an old BSA or Norton from shedding
parts.

I'm a big believer in Loctite. Jobst wasn't, but I never understood why.

Probably as in most cases it isn't necessary.

As I recall, Jobst went further, saying something like "There is no
appropriate use for Loctite on a bicycle."

My fender and rack mounts staunchly disagree.

Well, Jobst was a little dogmatic... even when proven wrong... but I
don't use loctite and my fender stays have never loosened. But I do
use socket headed bolts, which may make a bit of a difference in
tightening torque, i.e, the difference in "feel" between a one inch
diameter screwdriver handle and a 2.5 inch allen wrench.

For me, fender mounting screws are the most common self-loosening
fastener, even though I use allen head screws. Loctite does fix it, but
on some bikes I haven't Loctited them yet, probably because "most
common" is still not terribly common.
NyLock nuts are a more elegant solution ---

My dropouts have tapped holes for the screws. That means I generally
don't use nuts.

Way back when I had just one bike, I used no fenders unless it was
likely to be wet, and I definitely removed them for time trials or long
(dry) rides. So I fitted my fenders for quick release. For a time, I
used the trick of threading screws permanently through from the inside
of the dropouts toward the outside, so they acted like studes. I then
used wing nuts to fasten the fenders in place on those studs.

But now I just leave the fenders on all the time.

(I don't think I've ever seen a Nylock wing nut.)
Then you haven't looked very hard.

True. I've never felt the need to look for one.

I've always thought that the purpose of a wing nut was to allow easy
removal :-)
It is to allow tool-less removal.

On Friday, May 12, 2017 at 10:38:57 PM UTC-7, Tim McNamara wrote:
On Mon, 8 May 2017 04:26:17 -0700 (PDT), Sir Ridesalot
wrote:
On Sunday, May 7, 2017 at 3:53:29 PM UTC-4, Robert Latest wrote:
...after I properly re-sorted the spacers in the rear cassette. Duh.

robert

It's pretty amazing how well a lot of the 1980s (or a lot earlier)
stuff still works if it's maintained reasnonably well rather than
abused.

I see people riding 70's bikes every day around here, apparently for
practical transportation judging by street clothes instead of athletic
stuff. Makes me smile.

I have acquaintances who ride bikes from the 30s-40s-50s (mostly old
British stuff) quite often. Couple drops of oil every so often and
those old S-A hubs will practically run forever.

On Friday in a rather rich town I saw a kid riding a Mercier in close to perfect condition. I'm sure he didn't know what he had so I complimented him on it.

On Sat, 13 May 2017 10:49:09 -0400, Frank Krygowski
wrote:
On 5/13/2017 1:38 AM, Tim McNamara wrote:
On Mon, 8 May 2017 04:26:17 -0700 (PDT), Sir Ridesalot
wrote:
On Sunday, May 7, 2017 at 3:53:29 PM UTC-4, Robert Latest wrote:
...after I properly re-sorted the spacers in the rear cassette.
Duh.

robert

It's pretty amazing how well a lot of the 1980s (or a lot earlier)
stuff still works if it's maintained reasnonably well rather than
abused.

I see people riding 70's bikes every day around here, apparently for
practical transportation judging by street clothes instead of
athletic stuff. Makes me smile.

Well then, I'd make you smile!

I have acquaintances who ride bikes from the 30s-40s-50s (mostly old
British stuff) quite often. Couple drops of oil every so often and
those old S-A hubs will practically run forever.

Sadly, I mangled the shift cable on my S-A 3 speed yesterday. I
somehow managed to snag it with my heel, and it tangled in the chain
and crank.
:-(

The cable's the only thing that's given trouble with this drivetrain
since I installed it. But I'm not going to trade it for a kick-back 2
speed.

Some years back I was riding across the Hwy 5 bridge by Fort Snelling in
the Twin Cities, which obliges one to deal with stairs at either end.
As I was carrying my bike up the stairs on the St. Paul side, I looked
down and saw an S-A indicator chain. Huh! One of the links was bent,
but given how uncommon these things are nowadays I was really surprised
to find it.

On Sat, 13 May 2017 07:45:40 -0500, AMuzi wrote:
On 5/13/2017 12:38 AM, Tim McNamara wrote:

I have acquaintances who ride bikes from the 30s-40s-50s (mostly old
British stuff) quite often. Couple drops of oil every so often and
those old S-A hubs will practically run forever.


+1

And if not 'forever' at least 'lifetime' after which who cares?

Usually the original owner's lifetime then the lifetimes of several
subsequent owners. Sometimes someone will overhaul one, but I think
it's mainly for entertainment than necessity.

My friend Jon is a rabid British bike collector and has dozens of bikes,
many of them pre-WW II, and has rarely had to take apart an S-A. 70-80
years old, add a few drops of oil and they work fine.

On 5/14/2017 11:35 PM, Tim McNamara wrote:
On Sat, 13 May 2017 10:49:09 -0400, Frank Krygowski
wrote:
On 5/13/2017 1:38 AM, Tim McNamara wrote:
On Mon, 8 May 2017 04:26:17 -0700 (PDT), Sir Ridesalot
wrote:
On Sunday, May 7, 2017 at 3:53:29 PM UTC-4, Robert Latest wrote:
...after I properly re-sorted the spacers in the rear cassette.
Duh.

robert

It's pretty amazing how well a lot of the 1980s (or a lot earlier)
stuff still works if it's maintained reasnonably well rather than
abused.

I see people riding 70's bikes every day around here, apparently for
practical transportation judging by street clothes instead of
athletic stuff. Makes me smile.

Well then, I'd make you smile!

I have acquaintances who ride bikes from the 30s-40s-50s (mostly old
British stuff) quite often. Couple drops of oil every so often and
those old S-A hubs will practically run forever.

Sadly, I mangled the shift cable on my S-A 3 speed yesterday. I
somehow managed to snag it with my heel, and it tangled in the chain
and crank.
:-(

The cable's the only thing that's given trouble with this drivetrain
since I installed it. But I'm not going to trade it for a kick-back 2
speed.

Some years back I was riding across the Hwy 5 bridge by Fort Snelling in
the Twin Cities, which obliges one to deal with stairs at either end.
As I was carrying my bike up the stairs on the St. Paul side, I looked
down and saw an S-A indicator chain. Huh! One of the links was bent,
but given how uncommon these things are nowadays I was really surprised
to find it.

Well, at the end of that incident, after carrying my bike down into the
basement, I noticed the indicator chain assembly had fallen off the bike
somewhere. I immediately headed back out expecting a long and fruitless
search. But I found it lying at the bottom of my basement steps. Whew!


--
- Frank Krygowski