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#51
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How does I fix these cranks?
Impressive stuff, amazingly effective for pinholes.
USED IT ON A BROKEN 544 seam...worked 1st try....15 years.. assume the formulation improved after 15 ? cudna beleive it....had no prior knowledge of n thought I had to take it apart again for repair but no....zaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaap....no leak |
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#52
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How does I fix these cranks?
Lou Holtman wrote:
Op 29-9-2012 5:17, Dan O schreef: The UN54 in my bike has gone tens of thousands of miles and is fine, but if I had the dough, I'd be very happy with a Phil Wood BB (why go halfway?) Why, even a Phil Wood are two ball bearings in a shell, with a spindle. Hard to beat a Shimano unit. I had a UN72 which served 8 years of ATB duty and is now in a friends ATB. Agreed. My inexpensive Shimano unit has been perfect for many, many years. When Phil Wood's was (almost?) the only sealed BB, it was probably best. Now there are choices. Does the Phil BB require a special tool - or rather, is it different from other tools for sealed BBs? I ask because I acquired a Phil tool as part of a box of tools when a local bike shop folded. I had no matching bottom bracket, but a friend did, and he was extremely pleased when I gave him that tool. But this was before Shimano produced their sealed BB, so I wonder if the tools match. -- - Frank Krygowski |
#53
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How does I fix these cranks?
On 29 Sep, 10:12, Doug Cimperman wrote:
On 9/29/2012 3:19 AM, Lou Holtman wrote: Op 29-9-2012 5:17, Dan O schreef: On Sep 28, 6:26 am, Doug Cimperman wrote: On 9/28/2012 6:01 AM, John B. wrote: On Thu, 27 Sep 2012 19:15:52 -0500, Doug Cimperman wrote: On 9/27/2012 6:05 PM, AMuzi wrote: The Shimano unit is a stamped cartridge. Cannot be opened in a nondestructive manner. Some other similar looking products of better quality such as Tange, IRD, Phil can exchange bearing cartridges but none of these units uses a loose ball system I thought about getting a square-taper with cartridge bearings; I would have preferred it but couldn't find any cheaper options. Just Phil Wood, Dura-Ace, ect. If you are intent on the cheapest possible fix you might be able to get a set of the old three piece bottom brackets with the loose balls and install that. From a functional point of view it is probably as efficient as the more modern ones and if you keep it greased and adjusted *and will likely last a lifetime. Well,,,,, I didn't choose the absolute cheapest solution. I did want Shimano parts, and I didn't get the absolute cheapest ones there either. The UN55 is $24 and a Phil Wood BB would be around $200 (if I saw it correctly). If the UN55 fails soon then I'll probably want to spend more than $24 on another BB, but I probably won't jump up to the $200 level. Is there any square-taper/cartridge bearing BB's for $100? $75? I did not find any. The UN54 in my bike has gone tens of thousands of miles and is fine, but if I had the dough, I'd be very happy with a Phil Wood BB (why go halfway?) Why, even a Phil Wood are two ball bearings in a shell, with a spindle. Hard to beat a Shimano unit. I had a UN72 which served 8 years of ATB duty and is now in a friends ATB. Lou Mr Muzi informs us that the unit cannot be disassembled, but can you Everything can be disassembled. :-) take the bearing seals out without destroying them? I would want to dump some teflon in there if possible. I popped off the inner seal from a pedal bearing, washed it out, greased it and put a tablespoon of oil in the pedal body. If the same can be done to an unservicable sealed cartridge bearing bottom bracket then do it. IME teflon's benefit is not detectable for high-pressure bearing loads. It initially gave a sense of security in the belief of longer bearing life with lighter running. It was not born out in practice. |
#54
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How does I fix these cranks?
On Sep 29, 1:17 am, Lou Holtman wrote:
Op 29-9-2012 5:17, Dan O schreef: On Sep 28, 6:26 am, Doug Cimperman wrote: On 9/28/2012 6:01 AM, John B. wrote: On Thu, 27 Sep 2012 19:15:52 -0500, Doug Cimperman wrote: On 9/27/2012 6:05 PM, AMuzi wrote: The Shimano unit is a stamped cartridge. Cannot be opened in a nondestructive manner. Some other similar looking products of better quality such as Tange, IRD, Phil can exchange bearing cartridges but none of these units uses a loose ball system I thought about getting a square-taper with cartridge bearings; I would have preferred it but couldn't find any cheaper options. Just Phil Wood, Dura-Ace, ect. If you are intent on the cheapest possible fix you might be able to get a set of the old three piece bottom brackets with the loose balls and install that. From a functional point of view it is probably as efficient as the more modern ones and if you keep it greased and adjusted and will likely last a lifetime. Well,,,,, I didn't choose the absolute cheapest solution. I did want Shimano parts, and I didn't get the absolute cheapest ones there either. The UN55 is $24 and a Phil Wood BB would be around $200 (if I saw it correctly). If the UN55 fails soon then I'll probably want to spend more than $24 on another BB, but I probably won't jump up to the $200 level. Is there any square-taper/cartridge bearing BB's for $100? $75? I did not find any. The UN54 in my bike has gone tens of thousands of miles and is fine, but if I had the dough, I'd be very happy with a Phil Wood BB (why go halfway?) Why, even a Phil Wood are two ball bearings in a shell, with a spindle. Hard to beat a Shimano unit. I had a UN72 which served 8 years of ATB duty and is now in a friends ATB. Well, as noted I am running a cheapo throwaway BB; but there's an appeal to having core components that are both maximally durable, serviceable, *and* provide ideal performance. I can't afford a Rolex, but expect my Seiko to be there for me forever. The guy was talking about spending $100 just to get up away from the low end. Given that kind of inclination, I'd just go for the high-end and be done with it. |
#55
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How does I fix these cranks?
On 9/29/2012 3:09 PM, Dan O wrote:
Well, as noted I am running a cheapo throwaway BB; but there's an appeal to having core components that are both maximally durable, serviceable, *and* provide ideal performance. I can't afford a Rolex, but expect my Seiko to be there for me forever. The guy was talking about spending $100 just to get up away from the low end. Given that kind of inclination, I'd just go for the high-end and be done with it. What I meant earlier when I said that a lot of cartridge-bearing BB's were expensive, was that I noticed that a couple (road triples) I found had their own (also expensive) cranks, such as Dura Ace. The price of the bottom brackets was no big deal, but the price of the necessary cranks to fit them made them economically unattractive. The Phil Wood is a highly regarded BB that is still made for square-taper. ,,,,, Do you put anything on the square-tapers when assembling? Anti-sieze? A bit of grease or oil? This is another place I would not put teflon powder, but a bit of something in there would help reduce the crank sticking a lot. Oil alone would just squeeze out so anything to help would need to have a solid content. |
#56
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How does I fix these cranks?
the seize or not once was a holy war for square tapir users.
no seize folk used too much or not enough torque...an indiscriminate slobish lot having oxy torch on hand...available at SEARS for $50..... both a film of aluminum never seize and copper coat..the auto preference...work with 100pounds of tapir torque....examine and file for burrs, ridges. Shimano has apparently done a world class job with the BB...not doing so would become an immense PITA |
#57
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How does I fix these cranks?
"Doug Cimperman" wrote in message ... On 9/29/2012 3:09 PM, Dan O wrote: Well, as noted I am running a cheapo throwaway BB; but there's an appeal to having core components that are both maximally durable, serviceable, *and* provide ideal performance. I can't afford a Rolex, but expect my Seiko to be there for me forever. The guy was talking about spending $100 just to get up away from the low end. Given that kind of inclination, I'd just go for the high-end and be done with it. What I meant earlier when I said that a lot of cartridge-bearing BB's were expensive, was that I noticed that a couple (road triples) I found had their own (also expensive) cranks, such as Dura Ace. The price of the bottom brackets was no big deal, but the price of the necessary cranks to fit them made them economically unattractive. The Phil Wood is a highly regarded BB that is still made for square-taper. ,,,,, Do you put anything on the square-tapers when assembling? Anti-sieze? A bit of grease or oil? This is another place I would not put teflon powder, but a bit of something in there would help reduce the crank sticking a lot. Oil alone would just squeeze out so anything to help would need to have a solid content. Doug Cimperman, Anti-sieze. Kerry |
#58
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How does I fix these cranks?
On 10/2/2012 10:49 AM, Kerry Montgomery wrote:
"Doug Cimperman" wrote in message ... On 9/29/2012 3:09 PM, Dan O wrote: Well, as noted I am running a cheapo throwaway BB; but there's an appeal to having core components that are both maximally durable, serviceable, *and* provide ideal performance. I can't afford a Rolex, but expect my Seiko to be there for me forever. The guy was talking about spending $100 just to get up away from the low end. Given that kind of inclination, I'd just go for the high-end and be done with it. What I meant earlier when I said that a lot of cartridge-bearing BB's were expensive, was that I noticed that a couple (road triples) I found had their own (also expensive) cranks, such as Dura Ace. The price of the bottom brackets was no big deal, but the price of the necessary cranks to fit them made them economically unattractive. The Phil Wood is a highly regarded BB that is still made for square-taper. ,,,,, Do you put anything on the square-tapers when assembling? Anti-sieze? A bit of grease or oil? This is another place I would not put teflon powder, but a bit of something in there would help reduce the crank sticking a lot. Oil alone would just squeeze out so anything to help would need to have a solid content. Doug Cimperman, Anti-sieze. Kerry I figured something might be in order. I got the parts just now. Two observations: 1,,,, Ain't no way you could get the BB seals out without ruining them. I doubt that you could even use an oiling needle stuck through inside or outside the seals to squirt more oil in there. 2,,,, I find it odd that the BB tapers only go about halfway into the cranks, but I guess that's how it's supposed to be. I understand that they're not gonna go ALL the way in, but still. This is a portion of bicycles I never really looked at much though. |
#59
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How does I fix these cranks?
On 2 Oct, 10:07, Doug Cimperman wrote:
On 9/29/2012 3:09 PM, Dan O wrote: Well, as noted I am running a cheapo throwaway BB; but there's an appeal to having core components that are both maximally durable, serviceable, *and* provide ideal performance. *I can't afford a Rolex, but expect my Seiko to be there for me forever. The guy was talking about spending $100 just to get up away from the low end. *Given that kind of inclination, I'd just go for the high-end and be done with it. What I meant earlier when I said that a lot of cartridge-bearing BB's were expensive, was that I noticed that a couple (road triples) I found had their own (also expensive) cranks, such as Dura Ace. The price of the bottom brackets was no big deal, but the price of the necessary cranks to fit them made them economically unattractive. The Phil Wood is a highly regarded BB that is still made for square-taper.. ,,,,, Do you put anything on the square-tapers when assembling? Anti-sieze? A bit of grease or oil? Only oil. This is another place I would not put teflon powder, but a bit of something in there would help reduce the crank sticking a lot. Oil alone would just squeeze out so anything to help would need to have a solid content. The point is that the oil will lubricate in the thinnest layer whilst the crank is installed and possibly first ridden. One doesn't need a lubricant there any longer and a grease could cause problems later on, should it eventually thin down after weeks or months. It's good that the oil gets squeezed out relatively quickly. |
#60
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How does I fix these cranks?
apparently no probs with a sqaure tapir plastic shell shimano BB. Mine's attached to a rear door stake for almost 4 years. I cannuh here noise, runs smooth. Butbutbut no extensive rain on it...
.. itsnot expensive doahn worrry abt it. tapirs should slip fit into the cranks or cranKs fit on tapirs in a fairly SOLID FEEL. The spindle bolt then forces parts together. use a 3'8th's drive ratchet with a 14" pipe on it, 4" over the ratchet handle and PRESS THAT SUCKER HOME, over never seize off course....a thin but continuous film of abt 1/128" with your weight on it. .... the aluminum cranks will not split apart, the spindle bolt...cleaned with alcohol/paper towel...clean out the threads grooves...and scxrew an al soaked paper towel wick into the nut or spindle...twist it - it'll come out covered with grease...then lightly lube nut or bolt threads with blue locktite and one SPOT of red lock in the middle if its on hand. do not pressure a factory wad of whatever with 75-100 pounds on the spindle/bolt/nut caws the backpressure will screw up your torque down. get the assembly free of whatever then locktite as a sealant and thread holding ,ight fluid. doahn stand arounding after locktighting then 20 minjutes later try assembling....DO IT THEN.... LIKE A SURGEON...LAYOUT THE TOOLS...GO THRU THE MOTIons \ an doahn gettum on backwars....BB or cranks when done cover the end assembly with linseed oil laying bike down on side....then next time fersure it'll come out. do you have a shimano puller ? a delight. Porsche at wal prices. |
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