tool crossover between bike and auto/home and need a new BB

Hi all,

today I received in the mail my new bottom bracket tool (see previous
thread) so I figured I'd get at it and see what there was to see in
there. Well it turns out that it's made with a 36mm hex and the largest
wrench I have in my roll cabinet is a 32mm... and my big Crescent
wrench is in my friend's garage (I have a 8" one here, but it won't open
that far.)

I'm guessing that a 36mm wrench must be a common size for something on a
bicycle, otherwise it wouldn't be used here... so this prompts my
question. Assuming that I have a roll cabinet pretty well stocked with
metric and SAE tools sufficient for an "advanced amateur" auto mechanic,
is it likely sufficient for MOST work on bikes, or is it likely that I
may want to go ahead and instead of buying bicycle-specific tools on an
"As needed" basis simply buy a bike mechanic's tool assortment and be
done with it? If the latter, could someone recommend a good starter set
and source?

Oh, and if you were curious, the bottom bracket tool IS correct for what
I have, so that part's all good. I just have nothing to turn it with
handy as half my tools are not here at the moment

It also appears that my bottom bracket is in fact wore out:

http://parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=94

says "There is a fairly simple test to determine if the bottom bracket
bearing is worn out. Shift the chain to the inner most rear sprockets
front and rear. Drop the chain off the smallest front ring, and arrange
it so it will not strike the chainrings. Spin the crank while holding
the bike with one hand. If you feel an obvious rumbling or grinding
feeling, the bearing are wore out and the unit should be replaced. Very
worn bottom brackets will actually make a grinding noise."

Well, that is exactly what I feel, so I guess it's done wore out. If
I'm understanding this properly, I have a cartridge type BB so cleaning
and repacking is not an option. (remember, I still don't have the
bugger out yet.) Looks like I have more work to do. Can anyone
recommend a good ISIS type bottom bracket if such an animal exists, or
should I just look for another "GigaPipe" and slap 'er in there? Or
would it be preferable to seek out a completely different setup that
would accept my existing chainrings?

Sidebar question - it appears that the crank arms are greased where they
fit over the splines. What would be the recommended grease, or does it
not really matter? Would Mobil 1 wheel bearing grease be acceptable?
(that's something that I'm always likely to have on hand...)

I realize that these are possibly dumb questions for regular readers,
but back in the day I just rode, and either through dumb luck, good
equipment, or easy riding never really broke anything. (never really
maintained anything, either, save for oiling my chains whenever the
thought entered my head.) Now I find myself wanting to do everything
myself (as well as committing to riding more, now that I can no longer
run and don't have access to a swimming pool) but my real expertise is
with things that have spark plugs and universal joints, so I'm not sure
how much of that translates directly. I don't want to make any dumb
n00b mistakes and then have the LBS mechanics laugh at me later when I
bring my ride in in a box

thanks

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

"Nate Nagel" wrote in message
...
Hi all,

today I received in the mail my new bottom bracket tool (see previous
thread) so I figured I'd get at it and see what there was to see in there.
Well it turns out that it's made with a 36mm hex and the largest wrench I
have in my roll cabinet is a 32mm... and my big Crescent wrench is in my
friend's garage (I have a 8" one here, but it won't open that far.)

I'm guessing that a 36mm wrench must be a common size for something on a
bicycle, otherwise it wouldn't be used here... so this prompts my
question. Assuming that I have a roll cabinet pretty well stocked with
metric and SAE tools sufficient for an "advanced amateur" auto mechanic,
is it likely sufficient for MOST work on bikes, or is it likely that I may
want to go ahead and instead of buying bicycle-specific tools on an "As
needed" basis simply buy a bike mechanic's tool assortment and be done
with it? If the latter, could someone recommend a good starter set and
source?

Oh, and if you were curious, the bottom bracket tool IS correct for what I
have, so that part's all good. I just have nothing to turn it with handy
as half my tools are not here at the moment

It also appears that my bottom bracket is in fact wore out:

http://parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=94

says "There is a fairly simple test to determine if the bottom bracket
bearing is worn out. Shift the chain to the inner most rear sprockets
front and rear. Drop the chain off the smallest front ring, and arrange it
so it will not strike the chainrings. Spin the crank while holding the
bike with one hand. If you feel an obvious rumbling or grinding feeling,
the bearing are wore out and the unit should be replaced. Very worn bottom
brackets will actually make a grinding noise."

Well, that is exactly what I feel, so I guess it's done wore out. If I'm
understanding this properly, I have a cartridge type BB so cleaning and
repacking is not an option. (remember, I still don't have the bugger out
yet.) Looks like I have more work to do. Can anyone recommend a good
ISIS type bottom bracket if such an animal exists, or should I just look
for another "GigaPipe" and slap 'er in there? Or would it be preferable
to seek out a completely different setup that would accept my existing
chainrings?

Sidebar question - it appears that the crank arms are greased where they
fit over the splines. What would be the recommended grease, or does it
not really matter? Would Mobil 1 wheel bearing grease be acceptable?
(that's something that I'm always likely to have on hand...)

I realize that these are possibly dumb questions for regular readers, but
back in the day I just rode, and either through dumb luck, good equipment,
or easy riding never really broke anything. (never really maintained
anything, either, save for oiling my chains whenever the thought entered
my head.) Now I find myself wanting to do everything myself (as well as
committing to riding more, now that I can no longer run and don't have
access to a swimming pool) but my real expertise is with things that have
spark plugs and universal joints, so I'm not sure how much of that
translates directly. I don't want to make any dumb n00b mistakes and then
have the LBS mechanics laugh at me later when I bring my ride in in a box


thanks

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

Nate,
Don't know that 36mm is common to anything on a bicycle. Your current tool
set will likely serve you well for most things on bicycles. Some possible
exceptions: cone wrenches, freewheel/freehub tool, bottom bracket tool,
spoke wrench, chain whip, tire irons. If you have a bench vise, it likely
opens to at least 36mm, and you may need the leverage provided by clamping
the bottom bracket tool in the vise, then rotating the bike frame, in order
to remove the bottom bracket. Oh, most bottom brackets are right-hand thread
on the non-drive side, and left-hand thread on the drive side. You probably
already knew that from the Park site, though.
Kerry

On 21 June, 00:17, Nate Nagel wrote:
Hi all,

today I received in the mail my new bottom bracket tool (see previous
thread) so I figured I'd get at it and see what there was to see in
there. *Well it turns out that it's made with a 36mm hex and the largest
wrench I have in my roll cabinet is a 32mm... *and my big Crescent
wrench is in my friend's garage (I have a 8" one here, but it won't open
that far.)

I'm guessing that a 36mm wrench must be a common size for something on a
bicycle, otherwise it wouldn't be used here... so this prompts my
question. *Assuming that I have a roll cabinet pretty well stocked with
metric and SAE tools sufficient for an "advanced amateur" auto mechanic,
is it likely sufficient for MOST work on bikes, or is it likely that I
may want to go ahead and instead of buying bicycle-specific tools on an
"As needed" basis simply buy a bike mechanic's tool assortment and be
done with it? *If the latter, could someone recommend a good starter set
and source?

Oh, and if you were curious, the bottom bracket tool IS correct for what
I have, so that part's all good. *I just have nothing to turn it with
handy as half my tools are not here at the moment

It also appears that my bottom bracket is in fact wore out:

http://parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=94

says "There is a fairly simple test to determine if the bottom bracket
bearing is worn out. Shift the chain to the inner most rear sprockets
front and rear. Drop the chain off the smallest front ring, and arrange
it so it will not strike the chainrings. Spin the crank while holding
the bike with one hand. If you feel an obvious rumbling or grinding
feeling, the bearing are wore out and the unit should be replaced. Very
worn bottom brackets will actually make a grinding noise."

Well, that is exactly what I feel, so I guess it's done wore out. *If
I'm understanding this properly, I have a cartridge type BB so cleaning
and repacking is not an option. *(remember, I still don't have the
bugger out yet.) *Looks like I have more work to do. *Can anyone
recommend a good ISIS type bottom bracket if such an animal exists, or
should I just look for another "GigaPipe" and slap 'er in there? *Or
would it be preferable to seek out a completely different setup that
would accept my existing chainrings?

Sidebar question - it appears that the crank arms are greased where they
fit over the splines. *What would be the recommended grease, or does it
not really matter? *Would Mobil 1 wheel bearing grease be acceptable?
(that's something that I'm always likely to have on hand...)

I realize that these are possibly dumb questions for regular readers,
but back in the day I just rode, and either through dumb luck, good
equipment, or easy riding never really broke anything. *(never really
maintained anything, either, save for oiling my chains whenever the
thought entered my head.) *Now I find myself wanting to do everything
myself (as well as committing to riding more, now that I can no longer
run and don't have access to a swimming pool) but my real expertise is
with things that have spark plugs and universal joints, so I'm not sure
how much of that translates directly. *I don't want to make any dumb
n00b mistakes and then have the LBS mechanics laugh at me later when I
bring my ride in in a box

You may want a two handed tool to hold the BB key. Even when the
torque is low, it makes for easier operation due to better balance.
Any assembly lubricant should not interfere with the fit of the
assembly. I prefer oil, excess is easily squeezed out so as not to
interfere with the fit of the components. If you use grease, use
something which naturally thin and make sure that it gets into all the
nooks and crannies, remove any excess by wiping it off again. It
really is less troublesome to use an oil can. A flux brush or similar
may be used to distibute the lubricant.

Nate Nagel wrote:
Hi all,

today I received in the mail my new bottom bracket tool (see previous
thread) so I figured I'd get at it and see what there was to see in
there. Well it turns out that it's made with a 36mm hex and the largest
wrench I have in my roll cabinet is a 32mm... and my big Crescent
wrench is in my friend's garage (I have a 8" one here, but it won't open
that far.)

Use a pipe wrench. Make sure the BB tool is held by a QR to prevent
camming out.



I'm guessing that a 36mm wrench must be a common size for something on a
bicycle, otherwise it wouldn't be used here... so this prompts my
question. Assuming that I have a roll cabinet pretty well stocked with
metric and SAE tools sufficient for an "advanced amateur" auto mechanic,
is it likely sufficient for MOST work on bikes, or is it likely that I
may want to go ahead and instead of buying bicycle-specific tools on an
"As needed" basis simply buy a bike mechanic's tool assortment and be
done with it? If the latter, could someone recommend a good starter set
and source?

I wouldn't waste your money.

On Sun, 21 Jun 2009 00:13:18 GMT, Peter Cole
wrote:

Nate Nagel wrote:
Hi all,

today I received in the mail my new bottom bracket tool (see previous
thread) so I figured I'd get at it and see what there was to see in
there. Well it turns out that it's made with a 36mm hex and the largest
wrench I have in my roll cabinet is a 32mm... and my big Crescent
wrench is in my friend's garage (I have a 8" one here, but it won't open
that far.)

Use a pipe wrench. Make sure the BB tool is held by a QR to prevent
camming out.



I'm guessing that a 36mm wrench must be a common size for something on a
bicycle, otherwise it wouldn't be used here... so this prompts my
question. Assuming that I have a roll cabinet pretty well stocked with
metric and SAE tools sufficient for an "advanced amateur" auto mechanic,
is it likely sufficient for MOST work on bikes, or is it likely that I
may want to go ahead and instead of buying bicycle-specific tools on an
"As needed" basis simply buy a bike mechanic's tool assortment and be
done with it? If the latter, could someone recommend a good starter set
and source?

I wouldn't waste your money.

Yeah. Buy as needed.

On Jun 21, 12:17*am, Nate Nagel wrote:
Hi all,

today I received in the mail my new bottom bracket tool (see previous
thread) so I figured I'd get at it and see what there was to see in
there. *Well it turns out that it's made with a 36mm hex and the largest
wrench I have in my roll cabinet is a 32mm... *and my big Crescent
wrench is in my friend's garage (I have a 8" one here, but it won't open
that far.)

I'm guessing that a 36mm wrench must be a common size for something on a
bicycle, otherwise it wouldn't be used here...

Threaded headsets have 36mm locknuts often enough for Park Tool to
make a short 36 x 15mm locknut/pedal/Nexus hub nut travelling spanner
with two holes to bolt it under a water bottle cage. I carry on my
Cyber Nexus Trek because the designer ensure a sleek line by leaving
the lock ring out of the headset...

so this prompts my
question. *Assuming that I have a roll cabinet pretty well stocked with
metric and SAE tools sufficient for an "advanced amateur" auto mechanic,
is it likely sufficient for MOST work on bikes, or is it likely that I
may want to go ahead and instead of buying bicycle-specific tools on an
"As needed" basis simply buy a bike mechanic's tool assortment and be
done with it?

I have enough automotive tools to have built several cars from scratch
but they are useless for bicycle work. Example: I have a single 8x10mm
open spanner I've carried from bike to bike for years. Now, you might
say, go buy a good quality brake wrench and be done with it. Not so.
The brake wrench is too thick to fit a bike, the opening is too small
to fit over bike brake lines and/or fittings; the thing is terminally
clumsy. The correct spanner is very flat and came in a bicycle
specific kit, from which I removed it to go into my on-bike kit; I
have failed to find another to replace it.

*If the latter, could someone recommend a good starter set
and source?

I found it cheaper to buy the Velomann box kit and replace/add parts
than to buy individual tools, but it must be said I bought the
Velomann kit as a means of identifying the tools required and their
uses, as I was trying to become a bicycle mechanic in a big hurry,
with a new bike entirely beyond the ability of my LBS already ordered.
This is the toolkit I bought, though I paid more than the present
price:
http://poisonbikes.de/frame.php?Make...id=15_38000005
The same thing was on sale at a local supermarket a while ago for 20
euro. A better quality set is sold for more money by BBB.

I've replaced nothing though I've added several tools, some more
conveniently handled duplicates of tools already in the box.

I've found that a useful way to build a toolkit is to start with what
you will carry on the bike. The main thing I carry might seem to some
to be a toy; I assure you it is not:
Topeak Toolbar http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/M...x?ModelID=2926
for hex, screw driver and torx bits, plus two ali tyre levers, total
weight 68gr. To this I've added a T20 bit and a hexdrive 8mm socket
(from another kit) for my Rohloff gearbox, and an 8mm hex bit for
emergency get-you-home crankbolt/pedal fastening.
The 8x10 spanner, some tiewraps and a glueless patch kit complete the
travelling kit. I have a high quality spoke nipple key coming to match
the nipples on my Utopia perfectly, to carry in this kit.

At home I have a long/ballend hex key set (useful auto tools at
last!), Y socket and hex sets (very handy tools!), a ratchet driver
with bits (a lot of stuff on a modern bike is torqued very low -- you
don't need an offset handle, just a screwdriver handle will do), an
electronics pliers set for working with tiewraps, spoke nipple keys, a
good quality bicycle cable cutter, torque wrenches to cover all the
necessary ranges, a steel rule to use as a chaingauge (I have a
chaingauge too -- the steel rule is more accurate). I've recently
bought a pair of Park Tool quick-link chainsplitter pliers but haven't
yet had a chance to try them.

From the Velomann box I expect to use for my current bike: the
chainwhip, crank puller and possibly the bottom bracket tool at some
distant future date. However, that box has earned its keep already as
most of the tools have been used on my other bikes; it is just that my
new bike is essentially maintenance free, with very long expected
lifespans to all components.

The best money I ever invested in bicycle tools was in the Topeak Tool
Bar -- it is on its third bike already, and you will not prise it from
my dead fingers for, who knows, on the other side my bicycle might be
waiting for me. I think the thing's very efficiency -- its tiny
dimensions -- works against it in making it appear a toy. But it is a
very serious and versatile and strong tool, and far handier than those
clumsy fold-out multitools.

my real expertise is
with things that have spark plugs and universal joints, so I'm not sure
how much of that translates directly.

That's where I started too. Take heart. Bikes are easy and you have
plenty of advice to hand on the net. For a start, get the Shimano
service sheets for every Shimano part on your bike.

*I don't want to make any dumb
n00b mistakes and then have the LBS mechanics laugh at me later when I
bring my ride in in a box

Hasn't happened to me in five years...

Andre Jute
http://www.audio-talk.co.uk/fiultra/Andre%20Jute's%20Utopia%20Kranich.pdf

"Kerry Montgomery" wrote in message
news

"Nate Nagel" wrote in message
...
Hi all,

today I received in the mail my new bottom bracket tool (see previous
thread) so I figured I'd get at it and see what there was to see in
there. Well it turns out that it's made with a 36mm hex and the largest
wrench I have in my roll cabinet is a 32mm... and my big Crescent wrench
is in my friend's garage (I have a 8" one here, but it won't open that
far.)

I'm guessing that a 36mm wrench must be a common size for something on a
bicycle, otherwise it wouldn't be used here... so this prompts my
question. Assuming that I have a roll cabinet pretty well stocked with
metric and SAE tools sufficient for an "advanced amateur" auto mechanic,
is it likely sufficient for MOST work on bikes, or is it likely that I
may want to go ahead and instead of buying bicycle-specific tools on an
"As needed" basis simply buy a bike mechanic's tool assortment and be
done with it? If the latter, could someone recommend a good starter set
and source?

Oh, and if you were curious, the bottom bracket tool IS correct for what
I have, so that part's all good. I just have nothing to turn it with
handy as half my tools are not here at the moment

It also appears that my bottom bracket is in fact wore out:

http://parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=94

says "There is a fairly simple test to determine if the bottom bracket
bearing is worn out. Shift the chain to the inner most rear sprockets
front and rear. Drop the chain off the smallest front ring, and arrange
it so it will not strike the chainrings. Spin the crank while holding the
bike with one hand. If you feel an obvious rumbling or grinding feeling,
the bearing are wore out and the unit should be replaced. Very worn
bottom brackets will actually make a grinding noise."

Well, that is exactly what I feel, so I guess it's done wore out. If I'm
understanding this properly, I have a cartridge type BB so cleaning and
repacking is not an option. (remember, I still don't have the bugger out
yet.) Looks like I have more work to do. Can anyone recommend a good
ISIS type bottom bracket if such an animal exists, or should I just look
for another "GigaPipe" and slap 'er in there? Or would it be preferable
to seek out a completely different setup that would accept my existing
chainrings?

Sidebar question - it appears that the crank arms are greased where they
fit over the splines. What would be the recommended grease, or does it
not really matter? Would Mobil 1 wheel bearing grease be acceptable?
(that's something that I'm always likely to have on hand...)

I realize that these are possibly dumb questions for regular readers, but
back in the day I just rode, and either through dumb luck, good
equipment, or easy riding never really broke anything. (never really
maintained anything, either, save for oiling my chains whenever the
thought entered my head.) Now I find myself wanting to do everything
myself (as well as committing to riding more, now that I can no longer
run and don't have access to a swimming pool) but my real expertise is
with things that have spark plugs and universal joints, so I'm not sure
how much of that translates directly. I don't want to make any dumb n00b
mistakes and then have the LBS mechanics laugh at me later when I bring
my ride in in a box

thanks

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

Nate,
Don't know that 36mm is common to anything on a bicycle. Your current tool
set will likely serve you well for most things on bicycles. Some possible
exceptions: cone wrenches, freewheel/freehub tool, bottom bracket tool,
spoke wrench, chain whip, tire irons. If you have a bench vise, it likely
opens to at least 36mm, and you may need the leverage provided by clamping
the bottom bracket tool in the vise, then rotating the bike frame, in
order to remove the bottom bracket. Oh, most bottom brackets are
right-hand thread on the non-drive side, and left-hand thread on the drive
side. You probably already knew that from the Park site, though.
Kerry


Nate,
Regarding grease for the arm to spline interface - I use Anti-seize which
will make it easier to disassemble the parts in the future - it's great
wherever you're fitting dissimilar metals together.
Kerry

Kerry Montgomery wrote:
"Kerry Montgomery" wrote in message
news
"Nate Nagel" wrote in message
...
Hi all,

today I received in the mail my new bottom bracket tool (see previous
thread) so I figured I'd get at it and see what there was to see in
there. Well it turns out that it's made with a 36mm hex and the largest
wrench I have in my roll cabinet is a 32mm... and my big Crescent wrench
is in my friend's garage (I have a 8" one here, but it won't open that
far.)

I'm guessing that a 36mm wrench must be a common size for something on a
bicycle, otherwise it wouldn't be used here... so this prompts my
question. Assuming that I have a roll cabinet pretty well stocked with
metric and SAE tools sufficient for an "advanced amateur" auto mechanic,
is it likely sufficient for MOST work on bikes, or is it likely that I
may want to go ahead and instead of buying bicycle-specific tools on an
"As needed" basis simply buy a bike mechanic's tool assortment and be
done with it? If the latter, could someone recommend a good starter set
and source?

Oh, and if you were curious, the bottom bracket tool IS correct for what
I have, so that part's all good. I just have nothing to turn it with
handy as half my tools are not here at the moment

It also appears that my bottom bracket is in fact wore out:

http://parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=94

says "There is a fairly simple test to determine if the bottom bracket
bearing is worn out. Shift the chain to the inner most rear sprockets
front and rear. Drop the chain off the smallest front ring, and arrange
it so it will not strike the chainrings. Spin the crank while holding the
bike with one hand. If you feel an obvious rumbling or grinding feeling,
the bearing are wore out and the unit should be replaced. Very worn
bottom brackets will actually make a grinding noise."

Well, that is exactly what I feel, so I guess it's done wore out. If I'm
understanding this properly, I have a cartridge type BB so cleaning and
repacking is not an option. (remember, I still don't have the bugger out
yet.) Looks like I have more work to do. Can anyone recommend a good
ISIS type bottom bracket if such an animal exists, or should I just look
for another "GigaPipe" and slap 'er in there? Or would it be preferable
to seek out a completely different setup that would accept my existing
chainrings?

Sidebar question - it appears that the crank arms are greased where they
fit over the splines. What would be the recommended grease, or does it
not really matter? Would Mobil 1 wheel bearing grease be acceptable?
(that's something that I'm always likely to have on hand...)

I realize that these are possibly dumb questions for regular readers, but
back in the day I just rode, and either through dumb luck, good
equipment, or easy riding never really broke anything. (never really
maintained anything, either, save for oiling my chains whenever the
thought entered my head.) Now I find myself wanting to do everything
myself (as well as committing to riding more, now that I can no longer
run and don't have access to a swimming pool) but my real expertise is
with things that have spark plugs and universal joints, so I'm not sure
how much of that translates directly. I don't want to make any dumb n00b
mistakes and then have the LBS mechanics laugh at me later when I bring
my ride in in a box

thanks

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel
Nate,
Don't know that 36mm is common to anything on a bicycle. Your current tool
set will likely serve you well for most things on bicycles. Some possible
exceptions: cone wrenches, freewheel/freehub tool, bottom bracket tool,
spoke wrench, chain whip, tire irons. If you have a bench vise, it likely
opens to at least 36mm, and you may need the leverage provided by clamping
the bottom bracket tool in the vise, then rotating the bike frame, in
order to remove the bottom bracket. Oh, most bottom brackets are
right-hand thread on the non-drive side, and left-hand thread on the drive
side. You probably already knew that from the Park site, though.
Kerry


Nate,
Regarding grease for the arm to spline interface - I use Anti-seize which
will make it easier to disassemble the parts in the future - it's great
wherever you're fitting dissimilar metals together.
Kerry



good to know, I'm well stocked with that, having been a member of the
Church of Stainless for quite a few years now

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

On Jun 20, 11:17 pm, Nate Nagel wrote:
Hi all,

today I received in the mail my new bottom bracket tool (see previous
thread) so I figured I'd get at it and see what there was to see in
there. Well it turns out that it's made with a 36mm hex and the largest
wrench I have in my roll cabinet is a 32mm... and my big Crescent
wrench is in my friend's garage (I have a 8" one here, but it won't open
that far.)

The standard Park spline tool should take a standard socket wrench.
However, if you're removing a BB, using a crescent wrench is advisable
as it'l be closer to the BB body and less likely to torque out.

I just have the Shimano spline tool on hand and no calipers, but it's
quite a bit less than 32mm on the small flats. 32 mm is a common
headset nut size for threaded 1" steerers, FWIW.


I'm guessing that a 36mm wrench must be a common size for something on a
bicycle, otherwise it wouldn't be used here... so this prompts my
question. Assuming that I have a roll cabinet pretty well stocked with
metric and SAE tools sufficient for an "advanced amateur" auto mechanic,
is it likely sufficient for MOST work on bikes, or is it likely that I
may want to go ahead and instead of buying bicycle-specific tools on an
"As needed" basis simply buy a bike mechanic's tool assortment and be
done with it? If the latter, could someone recommend a good starter set
and source?

On a very modern bike and if you don't plan on servicing other older
bikes, just buy as needed. However, if you can catch a sale on a
Performance/Nashbar basic toolkit--they're stupid cheap and you get a
carry case so everything's consolidated. Older bikes need all sorts of
pin spanners and dental picks. ;-)

Most modern bikes are primarily metric hex with a few torx thrown in
on disc brakes and Campy ****.


Oh, and if you were curious, the bottom bracket tool IS correct for what
I have, so that part's all good. I just have nothing to turn it with
handy as half my tools are not here at the moment

It also appears that my bottom bracket is in fact wore out:

http://parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=94
[snip]
Well, that is exactly what I feel, so I guess it's done wore out.[[s]Can anyone
recommend a good ISIS type bottom bracket if such an animal exists, or
should I just look for another "GigaPipe" and slap 'er in there? Or
would it be preferable to seek out a completely different setup that
would accept my existing chainrings?

Hello proprietary. Me, I'd get another GP BB, run it and see how long
it lasts. If it kicks the bucket in a year I'd think about switching
to a different crank/bb.


Sidebar question - it appears that the crank arms are greased where they
fit over the splines. What would be the recommended grease, or does it
not really matter? Would Mobil 1 wheel bearing grease be acceptable?
(that's something that I'm always likely to have on hand...)

If it's square taper--no grease. On a spline system, you could use
Crisco. No matter.


[kvetchsnip]

You'll be fine.

Andre Jute schreef:


I've found that a useful way to build a toolkit is to start with what
you will carry on the bike. The main thing I carry might seem to some
to be a toy; I assure you it is not:
Topeak Toolbar http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/M...x?ModelID=2926
for hex, screw driver and torx bits, plus two ali tyre levers, total
weight 68gr.


Agreed. This is a very good quality tool to carry with you.

Lou