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Peugeot PX-10 max cog size?



 
 
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  #21  
Old September 23rd 18, 04:52 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
JBeattie
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 5,870
Default Peugeot PX-10 max cog size?

On Sunday, September 23, 2018 at 7:55:02 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-09-22 13:42, jbeattie wrote:
On Saturday, September 22, 2018 at 11:40:39 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-09-21 23:57, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Friday, September 21, 2018 at 5:34:11 PM UTC-4, Joerg wrote:
Snipped
He is a machinist and tool & die maker by trade, has a fully
equipped garage with lathe, mill and so on. He is building
stuff for his various vehicles all the time and made a couple
of parts for my MTB so I could build a sturdy rack.

120mm is a pain though, 10mm is a lot of widening. Looks like
this one can be shortened by grinding off the outer cog:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shimano-TZ3...4/322007138705




Snipped

Is he going to grind down the body too?

He should read Sheldon Brown:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/speeds.html and
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/freewheels.html

"The freewheel threading on these older hubs is generally
interchangeable except for some very old French units. If you go
from a 5-speed freewheel to a 6- or 7-speed freewheel, you will
usually need to add some spacers to the right end of the axle
between the cone and the locknut. Once you have done this, you'll
also need to re-dish the wheel to bring the rim back to the
centerline. You may need to re-space the frame if you have added
spacers to the axle. See my Frame Spacing Article for details on
this."


Right. I also had to re-dish my rear wheel after UG freehubs were
no longer available. It wasn't fun but I got it all done in under
an hour including replacing the freehub.


"How Many Speeds?


Doesn't matter. Actually, the less speeds the better.


Really? Wasn't the complaint that he needed more gears to get up and
down the monster hills?


No, just a much larger cog than is on the corn cob right now. We all
become older and often due to a slowing metabolism also heavier. This
nonsensical 9-10-11-12 speed craze is unnecessary. Same with me, I
always shift across 2-3 gears, or 5-8 on the MTB, in one swoop. However,
I do need that 32T in back which I could do without when I was 25.


The olde tymie wide step 5sp freewheels weren't much fun with the big
jumps.



I loved those! Except, of course, that these were prone to axle breaks
which I had a lot.

My old MTB has 7-speed, the new one has a 10-speed cassette. I did not
perceive any advantage whatsoever. It's just that when I bought it they
were all 10-speed and I wish they weren't because then the chain would
still be a sturdier wide one.


... but it's a better arrangement than the current corn-cob. Also
check his crank. Some of the PX10s were spec'd with weird chainring
sizes with big small rings. I think mine had a 45t inner or something
like that.



My road bike has 42T and the smallest available for that set was 39T. So
some day I might throw a 40T in back as the largest cog but that would
also required a longer cage derailer.


... Again, he could make some good money selling the bike in
the collector's market and then go out and buy a nice gravel bike
with lots of gears, lighter and stiffer where it matters with even
more tire clearance for the gnarly gravel riding that you have to do
in the wilds of Cameron Park. There are some really good deals out
there on aluminum frame gravel bikes with hydraulic discs. I think
updating a mid-fi French bike is a waste of money. If he can get by
with throwing on a freewheel, then I would stop there -- otherwise,
go shopping.


That's also what I'd do. Especially since he is a mountain biker by
heart so doesn't want to spend much time fixing a road bike.

As for gravel bikes, most of our trails are really not suited for that.
Lots of loose rocks and stuff, it won't be fun and likely break the new
bike. Even if the gravel bike survives it could result in serious back
pain for older riders:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l5cjAW_nrl4


I'm just talking about those urban trails next to roads you show and not technical single track, although I can ride most anything on my gravel bike -- just like Marty, minus the whole paralysis thing: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ZmJtYaUTa0

IMO, having 11sp is more advantageous now that I'm older and struggling to keep up with others. It's nice to have a gear that I can spin comfortably and not grind or over-spin. When I was young, I could more easily push a gear that was too big.

-- Jay Beattie.
Ads
  #22  
Old September 23rd 18, 05:20 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Frank Krygowski[_4_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 10,538
Default Peugeot PX-10 max cog size?

On 9/23/2018 10:54 AM, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-09-22 13:42, jbeattie wrote:
On Saturday, September 22, 2018 at 11:40:39 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-09-21 23:57, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Friday, September 21, 2018 at 5:34:11 PM UTC-4, Joerg wrote:
Snipped
He is a machinist and tool & die maker by trade, has a fully
equipped garage with lathe, mill and so on. He is building
stuff for his various vehicles all the time and made a couple
of parts for my MTB so I could build a sturdy rack.

120mm is a pain though, 10mm is a lot of widening. Looks like
this one can be shortened by grinding off the outer cog:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shimano-TZ3...4/322007138705





Snipped

Is he going to grind down the body too?

He should read Sheldon Brown:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/speeds.html and
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/freewheels.html

"The freewheel threading on these older hubs is generally
interchangeable except for some very old French units. If you go
from a 5-speed freewheel to a 6- or 7-speed freewheel, you will
usually need to add some spacers to the right end of the axle
between the cone and the locknut. Once you have done this, you'll
also need to re-dish the wheel to bring the rim back to the
centerline. You may need to re-space the frame if you have added
spacers to the axle. See my Frame Spacing Article for details on
this."


Right. I also had to re-dish my rear wheel after UG freehubs were
no longer available. It wasn't fun but I got it all done in under
an hour including replacing the freehub.


"How Many Speeds?


Doesn't matter. Actually, the less speeds the better.


Really?Â* Wasn't the complaint that he needed more gears to get up and
down the monster hills?


No, just a much larger cog than is on the corn cob right now. We all
become older and often due to a slowing metabolism also heavier. This
nonsensical 9-10-11-12 speed craze is unnecessary. Same with me, I
always shift across 2-3 gears, or 5-8 on the MTB, in one swoop. However,
I do need that 32T in back which I could do without when I was 25.


The olde tymie wide step 5sp freewheels weren't much fun with the big
jumps.



I loved those! Except, of course, that these were prone to axle breaks
which I had a lot.

My old MTB has 7-speed, the new one has a 10-speed cassette. I did not
perceive any advantage whatsoever. It's just that when I bought it they
were all 10-speed and I wish they weren't because then the chain would
still be a sturdier wide one.


Â*... but it's a better arrangement than the current corn-cob.Â* Also
check his crank.Â* Some of the PX10s were spec'd with weird chainring
sizes with big small rings. I think mine had a 45t inner or something
like that.



My road bike has 42T and the smallest available for that set was 39T. So
some day I might throw a 40T in back as the largest cog but that would
also required a longer cage derailer.


Â*Â* ... Again, he could make some good money selling the bike in
the collector's market and then go out and buy a nice gravel bike
with lots of gears, lighter and stiffer where it matters with even
more tire clearance for the gnarly gravel riding that you have to do
in the wilds of Cameron Park.Â* There are some really good deals out
there on aluminum frame gravel bikes with hydraulic discs.Â* I think
updating a mid-fi French bike is a waste of money. If he can get by
with throwing on a freewheel, then I would stop there -- otherwise,
go shopping.


That's also what I'd do. Especially since he is a mountain biker by
heart so doesn't want to spend much time fixing a road bike.

As for gravel bikes, most of our trails are really not suited for that.
Lots of loose rocks and stuff, it won't be fun and likely break the new
bike. Even if the gravel bike survives it could result in serious back
pain for older riders:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l5cjAW_nrl4


https://yarchive.net/bike/mountain_bike.html

--
- Frank Krygowski
  #23  
Old September 23rd 18, 05:42 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Joerg[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 6,016
Default Peugeot PX-10 max cog size?

On 2018-09-23 08:52, jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, September 23, 2018 at 7:55:02 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-09-22 13:42, jbeattie wrote:
On Saturday, September 22, 2018 at 11:40:39 AM UTC-7, Joerg
wrote:
On 2018-09-21 23:57, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Friday, September 21, 2018 at 5:34:11 PM UTC-4, Joerg
wrote: Snipped
He is a machinist and tool & die maker by trade, has a
fully equipped garage with lathe, mill and so on. He is
building stuff for his various vehicles all the time and
made a couple of parts for my MTB so I could build a sturdy
rack.

120mm is a pain though, 10mm is a lot of widening. Looks
like this one can be shortened by grinding off the outer
cog:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shimano-TZ3...4/322007138705






Snipped

Is he going to grind down the body too?

He should read Sheldon Brown:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/speeds.html and
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/freewheels.html

"The freewheel threading on these older hubs is generally
interchangeable except for some very old French units. If you
go from a 5-speed freewheel to a 6- or 7-speed freewheel, you
will usually need to add some spacers to the right end of the
axle between the cone and the locknut. Once you have done
this, you'll also need to re-dish the wheel to bring the rim
back to the centerline. You may need to re-space the frame if
you have added spacers to the axle. See my Frame Spacing
Article for details on this."


Right. I also had to re-dish my rear wheel after UG freehubs
were no longer available. It wasn't fun but I got it all done
in under an hour including replacing the freehub.


"How Many Speeds?


Doesn't matter. Actually, the less speeds the better.

Really? Wasn't the complaint that he needed more gears to get up
and down the monster hills?


No, just a much larger cog than is on the corn cob right now. We
all become older and often due to a slowing metabolism also
heavier. This nonsensical 9-10-11-12 speed craze is unnecessary.
Same with me, I always shift across 2-3 gears, or 5-8 on the MTB,
in one swoop. However, I do need that 32T in back which I could do
without when I was 25.


The olde tymie wide step 5sp freewheels weren't much fun with the
big jumps.



I loved those! Except, of course, that these were prone to axle
breaks which I had a lot.

My old MTB has 7-speed, the new one has a 10-speed cassette. I did
not perceive any advantage whatsoever. It's just that when I bought
it they were all 10-speed and I wish they weren't because then the
chain would still be a sturdier wide one.


... but it's a better arrangement than the current corn-cob.
Also check his crank. Some of the PX10s were spec'd with weird
chainring sizes with big small rings. I think mine had a 45t
inner or something like that.



My road bike has 42T and the smallest available for that set was
39T. So some day I might throw a 40T in back as the largest cog but
that would also required a longer cage derailer.


... Again, he could make some good money selling the bike in the
collector's market and then go out and buy a nice gravel bike
with lots of gears, lighter and stiffer where it matters with
even more tire clearance for the gnarly gravel riding that you
have to do in the wilds of Cameron Park. There are some really
good deals out there on aluminum frame gravel bikes with
hydraulic discs. I think updating a mid-fi French bike is a
waste of money. If he can get by with throwing on a freewheel,
then I would stop there -- otherwise, go shopping.


That's also what I'd do. Especially since he is a mountain biker
by heart so doesn't want to spend much time fixing a road bike.

As for gravel bikes, most of our trails are really not suited for
that. Lots of loose rocks and stuff, it won't be fun and likely
break the new bike. Even if the gravel bike survives it could
result in serious back pain for older riders:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l5cjAW_nrl4


I'm just talking about those urban trails next to roads you show and
not technical single track, although I can ride most anything on my
gravel bike ...



What I've shown? Like this?

http://analogconsultants.com/ng/bike/estavista3.JPG

Yes, you can ride than on a gravel bike but it won't be fun and the bike
will likely not enjoy a long life.


... -- just like Marty, minus the whole paralysis thing:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ZmJtYaUTa0


He sure is a talent but I always wondered how many times his stunts went
wrong and what the medical costs were.


IMO, having 11sp is more advantageous now that I'm older and
struggling to keep up with others. It's nice to have a gear that I
can spin comfortably and not grind or over-spin. When I was young, I
could more easily push a gear that was too big.


With age I developed no desire at all to have finer stepped gears but I
did for larger cogs in back. I'd be perfectly happy with 3-5 cogs in
back as long as I have a 12-32T range. The only reason I ride the
"in-between" cogs is to not wear out the most frequently used ones.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/
  #24  
Old September 23rd 18, 05:46 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Joerg[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 6,016
Default Peugeot PX-10 max cog size?

On 2018-09-23 09:20, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 9/23/2018 10:54 AM, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-09-22 13:42, jbeattie wrote:
On Saturday, September 22, 2018 at 11:40:39 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-09-21 23:57, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Friday, September 21, 2018 at 5:34:11 PM UTC-4, Joerg wrote:
Snipped
He is a machinist and tool & die maker by trade, has a fully
equipped garage with lathe, mill and so on. He is building
stuff for his various vehicles all the time and made a couple
of parts for my MTB so I could build a sturdy rack.

120mm is a pain though, 10mm is a lot of widening. Looks like
this one can be shortened by grinding off the outer cog:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shimano-TZ3...4/322007138705





Snipped

Is he going to grind down the body too?

He should read Sheldon Brown:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/speeds.html and
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/freewheels.html

"The freewheel threading on these older hubs is generally
interchangeable except for some very old French units. If you go
from a 5-speed freewheel to a 6- or 7-speed freewheel, you will
usually need to add some spacers to the right end of the axle
between the cone and the locknut. Once you have done this, you'll
also need to re-dish the wheel to bring the rim back to the
centerline. You may need to re-space the frame if you have added
spacers to the axle. See my Frame Spacing Article for details on
this."


Right. I also had to re-dish my rear wheel after UG freehubs were
no longer available. It wasn't fun but I got it all done in under
an hour including replacing the freehub.


"How Many Speeds?


Doesn't matter. Actually, the less speeds the better.

Really? Wasn't the complaint that he needed more gears to get up and
down the monster hills?


No, just a much larger cog than is on the corn cob right now. We all
become older and often due to a slowing metabolism also heavier. This
nonsensical 9-10-11-12 speed craze is unnecessary. Same with me, I
always shift across 2-3 gears, or 5-8 on the MTB, in one swoop.
However, I do need that 32T in back which I could do without when I
was 25.


The olde tymie wide step 5sp freewheels weren't much fun with the big
jumps.



I loved those! Except, of course, that these were prone to axle breaks
which I had a lot.

My old MTB has 7-speed, the new one has a 10-speed cassette. I did not
perceive any advantage whatsoever. It's just that when I bought it
they were all 10-speed and I wish they weren't because then the chain
would still be a sturdier wide one.


... but it's a better arrangement than the current corn-cob. Also
check his crank. Some of the PX10s were spec'd with weird chainring
sizes with big small rings. I think mine had a 45t inner or something
like that.



My road bike has 42T and the smallest available for that set was 39T.
So some day I might throw a 40T in back as the largest cog but that
would also required a longer cage derailer.


... Again, he could make some good money selling the bike in
the collector's market and then go out and buy a nice gravel bike
with lots of gears, lighter and stiffer where it matters with even
more tire clearance for the gnarly gravel riding that you have to do
in the wilds of Cameron Park. There are some really good deals out
there on aluminum frame gravel bikes with hydraulic discs. I think
updating a mid-fi French bike is a waste of money. If he can get by
with throwing on a freewheel, then I would stop there -- otherwise,
go shopping.


That's also what I'd do. Especially since he is a mountain biker by
heart so doesn't want to spend much time fixing a road bike.

As for gravel bikes, most of our trails are really not suited for
that. Lots of loose rocks and stuff, it won't be fun and likely break
the new bike. Even if the gravel bike survives it could result in
serious back pain for older riders:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l5cjAW_nrl4


https://yarchive.net/bike/mountain_bike.html


Quote "That was the lightest frame I owned but I ruined it about 10
years later by descending a forest road that had a fairly short "rolling
drain" (a diagonal cross ditch that almost matched the wheel diameter.
That incident wrinkled the top and downtube but the bicycle was
ridable".

'nuff said.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/
  #25  
Old September 23rd 18, 06:48 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
AMuzi
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 13,447
Default Peugeot PX-10 max cog size?

On 9/23/2018 11:42 AM, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-09-23 08:52, jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, September 23, 2018 at 7:55:02 AM UTC-7, Joerg
wrote:
On 2018-09-22 13:42, jbeattie wrote:
On Saturday, September 22, 2018 at 11:40:39 AM UTC-7, Joerg
wrote:
On 2018-09-21 23:57, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Friday, September 21, 2018 at 5:34:11 PM UTC-4, Joerg
wrote: Snipped
He is a machinist and tool & die maker by trade, has a
fully equipped garage with lathe, mill and so on. He is
building stuff for his various vehicles all the time and
made a couple of parts for my MTB so I could build a
sturdy
rack.

120mm is a pain though, 10mm is a lot of widening. Looks
like this one can be shortened by grinding off the outer
cog:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shimano-TZ3...4/322007138705







Snipped

Is he going to grind down the body too?

He should read Sheldon Brown:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/speeds.html and
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/freewheels.html

"The freewheel threading on these older hubs is generally
interchangeable except for some very old French units.
If you
go from a 5-speed freewheel to a 6- or 7-speed
freewheel, you
will usually need to add some spacers to the right end
of the
axle between the cone and the locknut. Once you have done
this, you'll also need to re-dish the wheel to bring
the rim
back to the centerline. You may need to re-space the
frame if
you have added spacers to the axle. See my Frame Spacing
Article for details on this."


Right. I also had to re-dish my rear wheel after UG
freehubs
were no longer available. It wasn't fun but I got it
all done
in under an hour including replacing the freehub.


"How Many Speeds?


Doesn't matter. Actually, the less speeds the better.

Really? Wasn't the complaint that he needed more gears
to get up
and down the monster hills?


No, just a much larger cog than is on the corn cob right
now. We
all become older and often due to a slowing metabolism also
heavier. This nonsensical 9-10-11-12 speed craze is
unnecessary.
Same with me, I always shift across 2-3 gears, or 5-8 on
the MTB,
in one swoop. However, I do need that 32T in back which I
could do
without when I was 25.


The olde tymie wide step 5sp freewheels weren't much fun
with the
big jumps.


I loved those! Except, of course, that these were prone
to axle
breaks which I had a lot.

My old MTB has 7-speed, the new one has a 10-speed
cassette. I did
not perceive any advantage whatsoever. It's just that
when I bought
it they were all 10-speed and I wish they weren't because
then the
chain would still be a sturdier wide one.


... but it's a better arrangement than the current
corn-cob.
Also check his crank. Some of the PX10s were spec'd
with weird
chainring sizes with big small rings. I think mine had a
45t
inner or something like that.


My road bike has 42T and the smallest available for that
set was
39T. So some day I might throw a 40T in back as the
largest cog but
that would also required a longer cage derailer.


... Again, he could make some good money selling the
bike in the
collector's market and then go out and buy a nice gravel
bike
with lots of gears, lighter and stiffer where it matters
with
even more tire clearance for the gnarly gravel riding
that you
have to do in the wilds of Cameron Park. There are some
really
good deals out there on aluminum frame gravel bikes with
hydraulic discs. I think updating a mid-fi French bike
is a
waste of money. If he can get by with throwing on a
freewheel,
then I would stop there -- otherwise, go shopping.


That's also what I'd do. Especially since he is a
mountain biker
by heart so doesn't want to spend much time fixing a road
bike.

As for gravel bikes, most of our trails are really not
suited for
that. Lots of loose rocks and stuff, it won't be fun and
likely
break the new bike. Even if the gravel bike survives it
could
result in serious back pain for older riders:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l5cjAW_nrl4


I'm just talking about those urban trails next to roads
you show and
not technical single track, although I can ride most
anything on my
gravel bike ...



What I've shown? Like this?

http://analogconsultants.com/ng/bike/estavista3.JPG

Yes, you can ride than on a gravel bike but it won't be fun
and the bike will likely not enjoy a long life.


... -- just like Marty, minus the whole paralysis
thing:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ZmJtYaUTa0


He sure is a talent but I always wondered how many times his
stunts went wrong and what the medical costs were.


IMO, having 11sp is more advantageous now that I'm older and
struggling to keep up with others. It's nice to have a
gear that I
can spin comfortably and not grind or over-spin. When I
was young, I
could more easily push a gear that was too big.


With age I developed no desire at all to have finer stepped
gears but I did for larger cogs in back. I'd be perfectly
happy with 3-5 cogs in back as long as I have a 12-32T
range. The only reason I ride the "in-between" cogs is to
not wear out the most frequently used ones.


"I always wondered how many times his stunts went wrong"

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ee54EP-nho4

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971


  #26  
Old September 23rd 18, 08:55 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Sir Ridesalot
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 5,270
Default Peugeot PX-10 max cog size?

On Sunday, September 23, 2018 at 12:46:19 PM UTC-4, Joerg wrote:
Snipped

Quote "That was the lightest frame I owned but I ruined it about 10
years later by descending a forest road that had a fairly short "rolling
drain" (a diagonal cross ditch that almost matched the wheel diameter.
That incident wrinkled the top and downtube but the bicycle was
ridable".

'nuff said.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/


The same thing can happen with a heavy fork and/or frame too if the front wheel drops into something deep that's nearly the same diameter as the wheel..

Btw, 9 gears in the rear can be very nice = you can set it up as a fairly close 7 speed and still have 2 bailout gears.

I remember my MTB with the 5 speed cogs and so many times I'd shift to a lower gear from the one I was using but that new gear would cause me to spin a lot because the jumps between gears were so great. that was on road riding, t rails riding as well as loaded off-road touring. I was so glad when the 6 speed cogs freewheels became available as the jumps between gears were't so bad. The 7 speeds were even better.

You seem to have unique needs/wants that no one else seems to have. I often wonder why you even bother to ride if everything about the bike is so sub-par for you.

Cheers
  #27  
Old September 23rd 18, 09:04 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Frank Krygowski[_4_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 10,538
Default Peugeot PX-10 max cog size?

On 9/23/2018 12:46 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-09-23 09:20, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 9/23/2018 10:54 AM, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-09-22 13:42, jbeattie wrote:
On Saturday, September 22, 2018 at 11:40:39 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-09-21 23:57, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Friday, September 21, 2018 at 5:34:11 PM UTC-4, Joerg wrote:
Snipped
He is a machinist and tool & die maker by trade, has a fully
equipped garage with lathe, mill and so on. He is building
stuff for his various vehicles all the time and made a couple
of parts for my MTB so I could build a sturdy rack.

120mm is a pain though, 10mm is a lot of widening. Looks like
this one can be shortened by grinding off the outer cog:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shimano-TZ3...4/322007138705






Snipped

Is he going to grind down the body too?

He should read Sheldon Brown:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/speeds.html and
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/freewheels.html

"The freewheel threading on these older hubs is generally
interchangeable except for some very old French units. If you go
from a 5-speed freewheel to a 6- or 7-speed freewheel, you will
usually need to add some spacers to the right end of the axle
between the cone and the locknut. Once you have done this, you'll
also need to re-dish the wheel to bring the rim back to the
centerline. You may need to re-space the frame if you have added
spacers to the axle. See my Frame Spacing Article for details on
this."


Right. I also had to re-dish my rear wheel after UG freehubs were
no longer available. It wasn't fun but I got it all done in under
an hour including replacing the freehub.


"How Many Speeds?


Doesn't matter. Actually, the less speeds the better.

Really?Â* Wasn't the complaint that he needed more gears to get up and
down the monster hills?


No, just a much larger cog than is on the corn cob right now. We all
become older and often due to a slowing metabolism also heavier. This
nonsensical 9-10-11-12 speed craze is unnecessary. Same with me, I
always shift across 2-3 gears, or 5-8 on the MTB, in one swoop.
However, I do need that 32T in back which I could do without when I
was 25.


The olde tymie wide step 5sp freewheels weren't much fun with the big
jumps.


I loved those! Except, of course, that these were prone to axle breaks
which I had a lot.

My old MTB has 7-speed, the new one has a 10-speed cassette. I did not
perceive any advantage whatsoever. It's just that when I bought it
they were all 10-speed and I wish they weren't because then the chain
would still be a sturdier wide one.


Â*... but it's a better arrangement than the current corn-cob.Â* Also
check his crank.Â* Some of the PX10s were spec'd with weird chainring
sizes with big small rings. I think mine had a 45t inner or something
like that.


My road bike has 42T and the smallest available for that set was 39T.
So some day I might throw a 40T in back as the largest cog but that
would also required a longer cage derailer.


Â*Â* ... Again, he could make some good money selling the bike in
the collector's market and then go out and buy a nice gravel bike
with lots of gears, lighter and stiffer where it matters with even
more tire clearance for the gnarly gravel riding that you have to do
in the wilds of Cameron Park.Â* There are some really good deals out
there on aluminum frame gravel bikes with hydraulic discs.Â* I think
updating a mid-fi French bike is a waste of money. If he can get by
with throwing on a freewheel, then I would stop there -- otherwise,
go shopping.


That's also what I'd do. Especially since he is a mountain biker by
heart so doesn't want to spend much time fixing a road bike.

As for gravel bikes, most of our trails are really not suited for
that. Lots of loose rocks and stuff, it won't be fun and likely break
the new bike. Even if the gravel bike survives it could result in
serious back pain for older riders:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l5cjAW_nrl4


https://yarchive.net/bike/mountain_bike.html


Quote "That was the lightest frame I owned but I ruined it about 10
years later by descending a forest road that had a fairly short "rolling
drain" (a diagonal cross ditch that almost matched the wheel diameter.
That incident wrinkled the top and downtube but the bicycle was
ridable".

'nuff said.


From the same source: "Why is it
that when I propose something, you try to disprove it by distorting to
the extreme? There must be a defensive mentality at work..."

Jobst did ten years of at least occasional off-road riding with that
frame before hitting a hell of a ditch - "almost matched the wheel
diameter. " That says to me that the frame and its rider performed
pretty well. I suspect many a mountain bike frame has given up before
ten years. And that's not even counting the ones that simply became too
unfashionable to ride.

I'm not saying that mountain bikes aren't more appropriate for riding
off-road. But I very much doubt your constant claims that your trails
require super bikes ridden by super men.

Granted, I haven't ridden my road bike on a rough forest path for, oh,
about five days now.

--
- Frank Krygowski
  #28  
Old September 23rd 18, 09:09 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Frank Krygowski[_4_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 10,538
Default Peugeot PX-10 max cog size?

On 9/23/2018 12:42 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-09-23 08:52, jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, September 23, 2018 at 7:55:02 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-09-22 13:42, jbeattie wrote:
On Saturday, September 22, 2018 at 11:40:39 AM UTC-7, Joerg
wrote:
On 2018-09-21 23:57, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Friday, September 21, 2018 at 5:34:11 PM UTC-4, Joerg
wrote: Snipped
He is a machinist and tool & die maker by trade, has a
fully equipped garage with lathe, mill and so on. He is
building stuff for his various vehicles all the time and
made a couple of parts for my MTB so I could build a sturdy
rack.

120mm is a pain though, 10mm is a lot of widening. Looks
like this one can be shortened by grinding off the outer
cog:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shimano-TZ3...4/322007138705







Snipped

Is he going to grind down the body too?

He should read Sheldon Brown:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/speeds.html and
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/freewheels.html

"The freewheel threading on these older hubs is generally
interchangeable except for some very old French units. If you
go from a 5-speed freewheel to a 6- or 7-speed freewheel, you
will usually need to add some spacers to the right end of the
axle between the cone and the locknut. Once you have done
this, you'll also need to re-dish the wheel to bring the rim
back to the centerline. You may need to re-space the frame if
you have added spacers to the axle. See my Frame Spacing
Article for details on this."


Right. I also had to re-dish my rear wheel after UG freehubs
were no longer available. It wasn't fun but I got it all done
in under an hour including replacing the freehub.


"How Many Speeds?


Doesn't matter. Actually, the less speeds the better.

Really?Â* Wasn't the complaint that he needed more gears to get up
and down the monster hills?


No, just a much larger cog than is on the corn cob right now. We
all become older and often due to a slowing metabolism also
heavier. This nonsensical 9-10-11-12 speed craze is unnecessary.
Same with me, I always shift across 2-3 gears, or 5-8 on the MTB,
in one swoop. However, I do need that 32T in back which I could do
without when I was 25.


The olde tymie wide step 5sp freewheels weren't much fun with the
big jumps.


I loved those! Except, of course, that these were prone to axle
breaks which I had a lot.

My old MTB has 7-speed, the new one has a 10-speed cassette. I did
not perceive any advantage whatsoever. It's just that when I bought
it they were all 10-speed and I wish they weren't because then the
chain would still be a sturdier wide one.


... but it's a better arrangement than the current corn-cob.
Also check his crank.Â* Some of the PX10s were spec'd with weird
chainring sizes with big small rings. I think mine had a 45t
inner or something like that.


My road bike has 42T and the smallest available for that set was
39T. So some day I might throw a 40T in back as the largest cog but
that would also required a longer cage derailer.


... Again, he could make some good money selling the bike in the
collector's market and then go out and buy a nice gravel bike
with lots of gears, lighter and stiffer where it matters with
even more tire clearance for the gnarly gravel riding that you
have to do in the wilds of Cameron Park.Â* There are some really
good deals out there on aluminum frame gravel bikes with
hydraulic discs.Â* I think updating a mid-fi French bike is a
waste of money. If he can get by with throwing on a freewheel,
then I would stop there -- otherwise, go shopping.


That's also what I'd do. Especially since he is a mountain biker
by heart so doesn't want to spend much time fixing a road bike.

As for gravel bikes, most of our trails are really not suited for
that. Lots of loose rocks and stuff, it won't be fun and likely
break the new bike. Even if the gravel bike survives it could
result in serious back pain for older riders:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l5cjAW_nrl4


I'm just talking about those urban trails next to roads you show and
not technical single track, although I can ride most anything on my
gravel bike ...



What I've shown? Like this?

http://analogconsultants.com/ng/bike/estavista3.JPG


What? The photo shows a boulder field maybe 15 feet long. Looks to me
like a person could ride to the left of it with no trouble. Yes, there
are smaller rocks beyond it, but many times I've ridden stuff like that
on a normal touring bike. On a gravel bike it would be easy.


--
- Frank Krygowski
  #29  
Old September 23rd 18, 09:38 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Emanuel Berg[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,035
Default Peugeot PX-10 max cog size?

Frank Krygowski wrote:

What I've shown? Like this?
http://analogconsultants.com/ng/bike/estavista3.JPG


What? The photo shows a boulder field maybe
15 feet long. Looks to me like a person could
ride to the left of it with no trouble. Yes,
there are smaller rocks beyond it, but many
times I've ridden stuff like that on a normal
touring bike. On a gravel bike it would
be easy.


? You need a MTB to ride that.

--
underground experts united
http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573
  #30  
Old September 23rd 18, 09:58 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Sir Ridesalot
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 5,270
Default Peugeot PX-10 max cog size?

On Sunday, September 23, 2018 at 4:38:34 PM UTC-4, Emanuel Berg wrote:
Frank Krygowski wrote:

What I've shown? Like this?
http://analogconsultants.com/ng/bike/estavista3.JPG


What? The photo shows a boulder field maybe
15 feet long. Looks to me like a person could
ride to the left of it with no trouble. Yes,
there are smaller rocks beyond it, but many
times I've ridden stuff like that on a normal
touring bike. On a gravel bike it would
be easy.


? You need a MTB to ride that.

--
underground experts united
http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573


A lot of people can or would ride that on a cyclo-cross bike, a gravel bike or even a road bike.

Cheers
 




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