|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#31
|
|||
|
|||
Is there any good non-rechargeable headlights anymore?
On 5/11/2017 4:31 PM, DougC wrote:
On 5/11/2017 8:43 AM, wrote: amazing how riders....and drivers but not truckers ..... can nickel n dime to see or not to see ..... It's not the nickels and dimes, it's the lack of things to spend them on. The kind I want, only one company (B&M) still seems to make. Also a lot of these lights now tend to emphasize how BLINDINGLY HIGH they can run for 1 hour, instead of running at a reasonable level for 15-20+ hours. That's showroom silliness. It's good for dazzling customers in the store, but it's not real useful overall. It's great for dazzling others on the road, as well. When leading night rides, I've had to ask others behind me to point their headlights downward. Even looking in my mirror was an irritation. -- - Frank Krygowski |
Ads |
#33
|
|||
|
|||
Is there any good non-rechargeable headlights anymore?
On 5/11/2017 1:31 PM, DougC wrote:
On 5/11/2017 8:43 AM, wrote: amazing how riders....and drivers but not truckers ..... can nickel n dime to see or not to see ..... It's not the nickels and dimes, it's the lack of things to spend them on. The kind I want, only one company (B&M) still seems to make. Also a lot of these lights now tend to emphasize how BLINDINGLY HIGH they can run for 1 hour, instead of running at a reasonable level for 15-20+ hours. Most of the lights I see have ratings for different run times at different levels. Sometimes you need the higher level (unlit multi-use trails, unlit tunnels, etc., but most of the time the lower levels are just fine. This one AA light I found from Amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06X6FXCLN or https://www.nebotools.com/prod_details.php?id=458 is interesting because it has both spot and flood beams at many different intensities. Most bicycle specific lights have a compromise of a beam pattern. A few have been made with two lamps in one housing, with separate spot and flood beams, and one pre-production model I saw had an adjustable beam. 2 LIGHT MODES - SPOT LIGHT • High (250 lumens) - 9 hours / 133 meters • Low (120 lumens) - 15 hours / 86 meters 4 LIGHT MODES - C•O•B FLOOD LIGHT • High (115 lumens) - 14 hours / 15 meters • Low (60 lumens) - 23 hours / 11 meters • Day Flash (15 lumens) - 24 hours / 15 meters • Night Flash (15 lumens) - 15 hours / 15 meters Not sure why day flash and night flash are the same lumens but the run times are so different. |
#34
|
|||
|
|||
Is there any good non-rechargeable headlights anymore?
"Joerg" wrote in message ... On 2017-05-10 19:53, sms wrote: On 5/10/2017 9:44 AM, Joerg wrote: snip Quote "4 rechargeable Ni-MH batteries, each 2100 mAh, no memory effect. Charging time approx. 5 hours using provided charging unit. Power supply by 4 non-rechargeable AA batteries possible". For a lot of lights, the output is significantly less on primary cells. Alkaline batteries have high internal resistance and can't provide the current that NiMH AA batteries provide. For a light as expensive as the Ixon I sure hope the engineers have figured out how to design a proper switch-mode converter for constant LED current. Else they should be moved to the dog house for a while. However, alkaline don't last long for high light output. Just like with digital cameras where NiMH provides for more shots despite having lower capacity. You might have some of that back to front. Ni-Nh isn't far off the Ah capacity of alkaline - but its **** poor at instantaneous peak current draw. Ni-Cd is size for size; comparable to lead acid for instantaneous current capability - but the Ah capacity is around 1/3 - 1/4 that of Ni-Mh. Ni-Cd have fairly rapid self discharge - Ni-Mh sold as; "ready to use" stay charged a fair bit longer in storage. Never use nickel chemistry batteries for rear lights - they have a "sudden death" discharge curve. They can look OK when you set off and dim out to a faint glow within minutes. There are rechargeable lithium units starting to appear - you can unclip the light and hook it to a USB charger, or take the cell out and charge that. |
#35
|
|||
|
|||
Is there any good non-rechargeable headlights anymore?
Gee I dunno jef n I look forward to your extensive n rematkable authority.
A 1.5 li tube yields 1.5V+ thus the question goes unanswered...is their hidden V meaning in Li ? from the auto ground last I have always grounded last n never corrected neither receiver or multimeter The Pioneer, which is exquisite, sez failed ground will cause fire. This is a loaded digital computer device not the Zenith tuber nor last year's Kenwood. The 510 line possible also as above. the battery nonsense makes me cry. Chow. I'll stop by if 101ing. |
#36
|
|||
|
|||
Is there any good non-rechargeable headlights anymore?
On 2017-05-11 14:26, Ian Field wrote:
"Joerg" wrote in message ... On 2017-05-10 19:53, sms wrote: On 5/10/2017 9:44 AM, Joerg wrote: snip Quote "4 rechargeable Ni-MH batteries, each 2100 mAh, no memory effect. Charging time approx. 5 hours using provided charging unit. Power supply by 4 non-rechargeable AA batteries possible". For a lot of lights, the output is significantly less on primary cells. Alkaline batteries have high internal resistance and can't provide the current that NiMH AA batteries provide. For a light as expensive as the Ixon I sure hope the engineers have figured out how to design a proper switch-mode converter for constant LED current. Else they should be moved to the dog house for a while. However, alkaline don't last long for high light output. Just like with digital cameras where NiMH provides for more shots despite having lower capacity. You might have some of that back to front. Ni-Nh isn't far off the Ah capacity of alkaline - but its **** poor at instantaneous peak current draw. NiMH can deliver a lot more peak current. My Nikon Coolpix can take 100-150 photos per charge in rapid succession on two AA NiMH cells, depending on how often I use the flash. With alkaline AA cells it conks out at around 20-30. I believe they warn about that in the manual somewhere. At purchase a Lithium primary battery was delivered for that purpose and they stated that if you must use non-rechargeables to use Li-cells. This is despite the fact that I am using low self-discharge Eneloop cells which aren't as staunch in terms of peak current as regular NiMH. Ni-Cd is size for size; comparable to lead acid for instantaneous current capability - but the Ah capacity is around 1/3 - 1/4 that of Ni-Mh. Ni-Cd have fairly rapid self discharge - Ni-Mh sold as; "ready to use" stay charged a fair bit longer in storage. IME NiMH is only better if it's Eneloop. Never use nickel chemistry batteries for rear lights - they have a "sudden death" discharge curve. They can look OK when you set off and dim out to a faint glow within minutes. There are rechargeable lithium units starting to appear - you can unclip the light and hook it to a USB charger, or take the cell out and charge that. In rear lights I either use alkalines or hook them to the central battery via a 3.3V converter. Got to re-do that on the MTB because it's rear end had to be gussied up. I just finished installing the battery, in a water-proof ABS enclosure bolted to a new diagonal bracing piece. Bicycles are so incomplete when bought new. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ |
#37
|
|||
|
|||
Is there any good non-rechargeable headlights anymore?
On 2017-05-11 09:18, sms wrote:
On 5/11/2017 7:57 AM, wrote: On Wednesday, May 10, 2017 at 5:44:56 PM UTC-7, Doug Cimperman wrote: On 5/10/2017 7:12 PM, Frank Krygowski wrote: ... I've done custom mounts for several different headlights, mostly because I almost always have handlebar bags mounted. Those interfere with most handlebar mounted lights . But I'm pretty content when fabricating a mechanical solution to such a problem. Welp, I ordered a couple of tactikewl flashlights and some mounts off Amazon for about $50 (for two of each). The flashlights are 18650 or 3xAA and come with the rechargeable stuff, but also have the 3xAA insert too. They are claimed as waterproof and have no USB charging ports, so they /should/ (might?) keep working in the rain. There is not a great amount of choice it seems. Apparently roughly 95% of all the flashlights listed on Amazon is one of maybe 6 different China models, just sold under different names and prices. And if you disregard the "all-rubber-band-mounts" and the "fake-Two-Fish-mounts" that don't hold, then there's only about four different kinds of handlebar-flashlight mounts--a couple of which were only big enough for the 3xAAA lights, and so were clearly too small for the flashlights I got. I can make mounts too but don't really wanna. I used these and there is a problem with them - the beam is too narrow. But they are so bright that God can see them in heaven. So I have a second light that is much less bright and has a wide beam. This one has a rather large battery that hangs off of the top tube. Now that I'm driving again I don't need a grocery bike so it is all sitting around. Find a flashlight with a spot to flood adjustable beam. These have an almost ideal beam pattern for illuminating mostly straight ahead, but with sufficient spill for side and upwards illumination, but without blinding oncoming traffic. Not a lot of choices with AA batteries though. 3C is more common, but that's a little big for handlebars. Those shake loose real soon on a bike unless you restrict your riding to pristine asphalt. The one I had also shook in the battery area and I had to make neoprene rings to muffle that. Eventually the focus adjuster thread had shaken itself so loose that I needed a piece of road bike tube and a rubber band to keep it from playing "autofocus". -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ |
#38
|
|||
|
|||
Is there any good non-rechargeable headlights anymore?
On Thu, 11 May 2017 09:17:40 -0700, Jeff Liebermann
wrote: On Thu, 11 May 2017 04:03:29 -0700 (PDT), wrote: If the OP uses 4 1.5V Lion in a parallel batt carrier wired in series to a second same carrier the V is 3.0 3 in series is 4.5V Correct ? No. Most (not all) LiIon cells are a nominal 3.7V. Plug one of these into something made for a 1.5v akaline battery and you will have a smoking ruin. This is a very real problem. I have several flashlights that use 14500 LiIon cells which are exactly the same size as a AA battery. If I accidentally plug one of these into a AA battery holder, it will probably destroy the device. So in potential possibility repairing a failed proprietary integral batt device is possible. Nope. Plugging in the wrong battery does not make things go better or fix them. I have 2 devices, a Pioneer 2DIN receiver and a new Amprobe 510 multimeter asking connect to ground first. I had operated under the auto batt standard of grounD last. Is this a current sea change ? No. It is also wrong. In a car, I'm told that you connect the ground (negative) battery terminal last. That's because when you tighten the positive battery terminal with an un-insulated wrench, and you accidentally hit the grounded chassis or grounded battery frame, if the ground (negative) terminal is disconnected, there will be no spark, arc, smoke, or exploding battery. Of course, grounding the ground lead with a wrench will not do anything dangerous. Unless you have a classic car, such as a pre '60's Volkswagen, many British cars prior to the '60's, or even a Ford, from the Model A through about 1948, all of which had positive grounds :-) -- Cheers, John B. |
#39
|
|||
|
|||
Is there any good non-rechargeable headlights anymore?
On Thu, 11 May 2017 13:39:35 -0700 (PDT), wrote:
Perhaps there's a possibility to put an in-line resister in the LED lights that use 1.5V so that you can use the Lithium Ion rechargeable. Though in order to figure the size of the resister out I'd have to have some measured information and the LED number. As long as the battery voltage is higher than the LED voltage, it will light up. Whether it will stay at a constant brightness over the life of the battery is the big question. Just a resistor won't do that. What you really want is a current regulator instead of the resistor. This is more commonly known as an LED driver: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=led+driver Lots of different types designed to run from various power sources and drive various size LED's. The big difference between a series resistor and a switching power type LED driver is efficiency and power dissipation. The resistor will simply convert the voltage drop across it into heat. For example, if you have a 2 watt LED and are driving it from a battery that has twice the voltage that the LED needs, the power dissipated in the resistor will be 2 watts. The battery driving this affair will need to deliver twice the energy (watt-hours) to light the LED as it would with a switcher. What the switcher does is chop up the input DC voltage. For example, if you need 1/2 the voltage at the output, the duty cycle will be 50%. Note that the output of the LED driver is DC, not a chopped AC square wave, so your light won't be acting like a strobe. Since the LED driver only dissipates power during transitions, the power dissipation is zilch and the efficiency is quite high, which is much better than a hot resistor. However, that doesn't mean you won't find resistors INSIDE LED arrays. The purpose of these small value series resistors is to equalize the current through LED series strings that are run in parallel. For example, a typical 10 watt LED uses three LED's in series (so that it runs on 9-12V) with three of these three LED strings running in parallel. Without series resistors, the series string with the lowest diode voltage will hog all the current. At best, this causes uneven lighting among the strings. At worst, overheating of one string. So, a small value resistor is added in series with each string to help equalize the current through the strings. -- Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
#40
|
|||
|
|||
Is there any good non-rechargeable headlights anymore?
https://goo.gl/AwioAN
Ford 2008 Econoline wit 130 pages of elec trical shop manual switches hot to ground. If possible comment on a safety relay shutting off power if ground fails |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Good website on bike headlights | [email protected] | General | 69 | May 18th 07 12:43 PM |
Good website on bike headlights | [email protected] | Techniques | 73 | May 18th 07 12:43 PM |
rechargeable lights | [email protected] | UK | 6 | July 30th 05 10:09 PM |
Streamlight Strion--Finally a good, easily available, 6W, 80 lumens,Adjustable Beam, Rechargeable Lithium Ion Flashlight | Steven M. Scharf | General | 0 | December 22nd 04 06:24 AM |
Streamlight Strion--Finally a good, easily available, 6W, 80 lumens,Adjustable Beam, Rechargeable Lithium Ion Flashlight | Steven M. Scharf | Techniques | 0 | December 22nd 04 06:24 AM |