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#1
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Worn out chainrings?
I've spent hours searching in groups. Maybe there's a NEW approach to
this. I've a pile of used chainrings. Just as if I had a pile of used chains, I'd like to describe their wear. How to do it? I tried putting a 5 inch length of new SRAM PC58 chain on each ring, holding down the last links and pulling up; also moving the length of chain around the rings. For comparison with used chainrings I had 3 new rings. A circa-1995 Campagnolo 53t ring and a new 1985 Takagi 52t. Both rings were ground and should represent quality machining. I also had a new old stock 52 t 144bcd ring by ??? Aside from visually obvious wear to the face of the teeth of some used rings, I could not say that the movement of the chainon the used chains differentiated them from the movement on the new ones. There was as much difference between the new chainrings as there was between new and used. This isn't academic if I'd like to predict how the ring will perform, for me or someone else, or if I'd like to be sure the ring will not excessively wear or damage a new chain, and then cassette sprockets. So what is the metric, besides "chain skips on it under load" and "teeth look hooked? |
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#3
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Worn out chainrings?
On Mar 27, 1:09*am, A Muzi wrote:
wrote: I've spent hours searching in groups. Maybe there's a NEW approach to this. I've a pile of used chainrings. Just as if I had a pile of used chains, I'd like to describe their wear. How to do it? I tried putting a 5 inch length of new SRAM PC58 chain on each ring, holding down the last links and pulling up; also moving the length of chain around the rings. For comparison with used chainrings I had 3 new rings. A circa-1995 Campagnolo 53t ring and a new 1985 Takagi 52t. Both rings were ground and should represent quality machining. I also had a new old stock 52 t 144bcd ring by ??? Aside from visually obvious wear to the face of the teeth of some used rings, I could not say that the movement of the chainon the used chains differentiated them from the movement on the new ones. There was as much difference between the new chainrings as there was between new and used. This isn't academic if I'd like to predict how the ring will perform, for me or someone else, or if I'd like to be sure the ring will not excessively wear or damage a new chain, and then cassette sprockets. So what is the metric, besides "chain skips on it under load" and "teeth look hooked? Yes, it's hard to evaluate chainring wear! A new chain will generally run acceptably well on old rings but shift response may suffer. The teeth have to be down to ugly little stumps before you get actual failure. *That limit is a smaller stump on big rings than on small rings because fewer teeth engage on small rings. (32t and 36t triple middle rings being the most commonly replaced 'worn out' sizes) Definitive overview hehttp://draco.acs.uci.edu/rbfaq/FAQ/8d.2.html short answer: No definitive measurable limit off the bike. -- Andrew Muziwww.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April, 1971 But, realistically, if one uses Campy or Shimano chains that have no easy-to-break links, removing a chain to lube this days is quite difficult. I clean my chains on the bike, use Pro-Link lube, and change my chains once per year or so and they are not beyond 1/16" in 12" by that time (i.e. almost no wear in 5000 miles). I do join my chains with a removable KMC missing-Link, but that is a one-time use link and I generally leave the chain on the bike for its life. What do others use and do you still remove the chain to clean it? |
#4
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Worn out chainrings?
On Mar 27, 1:09 am, A Muzi wrote:
wrote: I've spent hours searching in groups. Maybe there's a NEW approach to this. I've a pile of used chainrings. Just as if I had a pile of used chains, I'd like to describe their wear. How to do it? I tried putting a 5 inch length of new SRAM PC58 chain on each ring, holding down the last links and pulling up; also moving the length of chain around the rings. For comparison with used chainrings I had 3 new rings. A circa-1995 Campagnolo 53t ring and a new 1985 Takagi 52t. Both rings were ground and should represent quality machining. I also had a new old stock 52 t 144bcd ring by ??? Aside from visually obvious wear to the face of the teeth of some used rings, I could not say that the movement of the chainon the used chains differentiated them from the movement on the new ones. There was as much difference between the new chainrings as there was between new and used. This isn't academic if I'd like to predict how the ring will perform, for me or someone else, or if I'd like to be sure the ring will not excessively wear or damage a new chain, and then cassette sprockets. So what is the metric, besides "chain skips on it under load" and "teeth look hooked? Yes, it's hard to evaluate chainring wear! A new chain will generally run acceptably well on old rings but shift response may suffer. The teeth have to be down to ugly little stumps before you get actual failure. That limit is a smaller stump on big rings than on small rings because fewer teeth engage on small rings. (32t and 36t triple middle rings being the most commonly replaced 'worn out' sizes) Definitive overview hehttp://draco.acs.uci.edu/rbfaq/FAQ/8d.2.html short answer: No definitive measurable limit off the bike. -- Andrew Muziwww.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April, 1971 Thanks, Andrew. Your answers always pithy; Jobst's so ..... Anyway, Jobst doesn't get around to saying in the FAQ whether a worn chainring accelerates wear on the chain, new or old. Does it? If not, it would seem there's not much reason, except for looks, crisper shifting and the LBS's wrench's respecct , to ever change the big ring on, a commuter bike or a tourer. Chainsuck with a lubed chain on a big ring just never happens, does it? Harry Travis |
#5
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Worn out chainrings?
On Mar 27, 8:24 am, "
wrote: Anyway, Jobst doesn't get around to saying in the FAQ whether a worn chainring accelerates wear on the chain, new or old. Does it? If not, it would seem there's not much reason, except for looks, crisper shifting and the LBS's wrench's respecct , to ever change the big ring on, a commuter bike or a tourer. Chainsuck with a lubed chain on a big ring just never happens, does it? I had to flip the big (52T) ring over on my bike about 20 kmiles ago when the chain started to skip on it under load. It's been working ok so far wih the chain applying pressure on the other side of the teeth but I expect that within another year or two it'll start skipping again and need to be replaced. |
#6
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Worn out chainrings?
On Wed, 26 Mar 2008 20:27:42 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote: So what is the metric, besides "chain skips on it under load" and "teeth look hooked? With 50/34 combinations, the chain will miss the 34 on a downshift when the 50 is worn. With the bicycle on the stand have the chain on the big ring and the 2nd largest cog. Downshift the front derailleur. Then slowly move the crank. You will see that the chain begins to engage the 34 before it is completely off the 50. If the chain hangs onto the 50 a bit too long, it will miss the inner ring and you'll drop the chain. |
#7
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Worn out chainrings?
In article
, DNM wrote: On Mar 27, 1:09*am, A Muzi wrote: wrote: I've spent hours searching in groups. Maybe there's a NEW approach to this. I've a pile of used chainrings. Just as if I had a pile of used chains, I'd like to describe their wear. How to do it? I tried putting a 5 inch length of new SRAM PC58 chain on each ring, holding down the last links and pulling up; also moving the length of chain around the rings. For comparison with used chainrings I had 3 new rings. A circa-1995 Campagnolo 53t ring and a new 1985 Takagi 52t. Both rings were ground and should represent quality machining. I also had a new old stock 52 t 144bcd ring by ??? Aside from visually obvious wear to the face of the teeth of some used rings, I could not say that the movement of the chainon the used chains differentiated them from the movement on the new ones. There was as much difference between the new chainrings as there was between new and used. This isn't academic if I'd like to predict how the ring will perform, for me or someone else, or if I'd like to be sure the ring will not excessively wear or damage a new chain, and then cassette sprockets. So what is the metric, besides "chain skips on it under load" and "teeth look hooked? Yes, it's hard to evaluate chainring wear! A new chain will generally run acceptably well on old rings but shift response may suffer. The teeth have to be down to ugly little stumps before you get actual failure. *That limit is a smaller stump on big rings than on small rings because fewer teeth engage on small rings. (32t and 36t triple middle rings being the most commonly replaced 'worn out' sizes) Definitive overview hehttp://draco.acs.uci.edu/rbfaq/FAQ/8d.2.html short answer: No definitive measurable limit off the bike. But, realistically, if one uses Campy or Shimano chains that have no easy-to-break links, removing a chain to lube this days is quite difficult. I clean my chains on the bike, use Pro-Link lube, and change my chains once per year or so and they are not beyond 1/16" in 12" by that time (i.e. almost no wear in 5000 miles). I do join my chains with a removable KMC missing-Link, but that is a one-time use link and I generally leave the chain on the bike for its life. What do others use and do you still remove the chain to clean it? I leave it on the bicycle. Wipe the chain regularly. Occasionally I clean and lubricate with Rock and Roll using their instructions. -- Michael Press |
#8
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Worn out chainrings?
wrote:
I've spent hours searching in groups. Maybe there's a NEW approach to this. I've a pile of used chainrings. Just as if I had a pile of used chains, I'd like to describe their wear. How to do it? I tried putting a 5 inch length of new SRAM PC58 chain on each ring, holding down the last links and pulling up; also moving the length of chain around the rings. For comparison with used chainrings I had 3 new rings. A circa-1995 Campagnolo 53t ring and a new 1985 Takagi 52t. Both rings were ground and should represent quality machining. I also had a new old stock 52 t 144bcd ring by ??? Aside from visually obvious wear to the face of the teeth of some used rings, I could not say that the movement of the chainon the used chains differentiated them from the movement on the new ones. There was as much difference between the new chainrings as there was between new and used. This isn't academic if I'd like to predict how the ring will perform, for me or someone else, or if I'd like to be sure the ring will not excessively wear or damage a new chain, and then cassette sprockets. So what is the metric, besides "chain skips on it under load" and "teeth look hooked? A Muzi wrote: Yes, it's hard to evaluate chainring wear! A new chain will generally run acceptably well on old rings but shift response may suffer. The teeth have to be down to ugly little stumps before you get actual failure. That limit is a smaller stump on big rings than on small rings because fewer teeth engage on small rings. (32t and 36t triple middle rings being the most commonly replaced 'worn out' sizes) Definitive overview hehttp://draco.acs.uci.edu/rbfaq/FAQ/8d.2.html short answer: No definitive measurable limit off the bike. DNM wrote: But, realistically, if one uses Campy or Shimano chains that have no easy-to-break links, removing a chain to lube this days is quite difficult. I clean my chains on the bike, use Pro-Link lube, and change my chains once per year or so and they are not beyond 1/16" in 12" by that time (i.e. almost no wear in 5000 miles). I do join my chains with a removable KMC missing-Link, but that is a one-time use link and I generally leave the chain on the bike for its life. What do others use and do you still remove the chain to clean it? We think KMC's 'one time use' admonishment is overstated. -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April, 1971 |
#9
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Worn out chainrings?
Andrew Muzi wrote:
wrote: I've spent hours searching in groups. Maybe there's a NEW approach to this. I've a pile of used chainrings. Just as if I had a pile of used chains, I'd like to describe their wear. How to do it? I tried putting a 5 inch length of new SRAM PC58 chain on each ring, holding down the last links and pulling up; also moving the length of chain around the rings. For comparison with used chainrings I had 3 new rings. A circa-1995 Campagnolo 53t ring and a new 1985 Takagi 52t. Both rings were ground and should represent quality machining. I also had a new old stock 52 t 144bcd ring by ??? Aside from visually obvious wear to the face of the teeth of some used rings, I could not say that the movement of the chainon the used chains differentiated them from the movement on the new ones. There was as much difference between the new chainrings as there was between new and used. This isn't academic if I'd like to predict how the ring will perform, for me or someone else, or if I'd like to be sure the ring will not excessively wear or damage a new chain, and then cassette sprockets. So what is the metric, besides "chain skips on it under load" and "teeth look hooked? Yes, it's hard to evaluate chainring wear! A new chain will generally run acceptably well on old rings but shift response may suffer. The teeth have to be down to ugly little stumps before you get actual failure. That limit is a smaller stump on big rings than on small rings because fewer teeth engage on small rings. (32t and 36t triple middle rings being the most commonly replaced 'worn out' sizes) Definitive overview he http://draco.acs.uci.edu/rbfaq/FAQ/8d.2.html short answer: No definitive measurable limit off the bike. So how does the professional bicycle mechanic decide when to recommend new chainrings [1] to the customer? [1] Or is a new crank with rings included less expensive? -- Tom Sherman - Holstein-Friesland Bovinia The weather is here, wish you were beautiful |
#10
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Worn out chainrings?
A Muzi Wrote: wrote: I've spent hours searching in groups. Maybe there's a NEW approach to this. I've a pile of used chainrings. Just as if I had a pile of used chains, I'd like to describe their wear. How to do it? I tried putting a 5 inch length of new SRAM PC58 chain on each ring, holding down the last links and pulling up; also moving the length of chain around the rings. For comparison with used chainrings I had 3 new rings. A circa-1995 Campagnolo 53t ring and a new 1985 Takagi 52t. Both rings were ground and should represent quality machining. I also had a new old stock 52 t 144bcd ring by ??? Aside from visually obvious wear to the face of the teeth of some used rings, I could not say that the movement of the chainon the used chains differentiated them from the movement on the new ones. There was as much difference between the new chainrings as there was between new and used. This isn't academic if I'd like to predict how the ring will perform, for me or someone else, or if I'd like to be sure the ring will not excessively wear or damage a new chain, and then cassette sprockets. So what is the metric, besides "chain skips on it under load" and "teeth look hooked? A Muzi wrote: Yes, it's hard to evaluate chainring wear! A new chain will generally run acceptably well on old rings but shift response may suffer. The teeth have to be down to ugly little stumps before you get actual failure. That limit is a smaller stump on big rings than on small rings because fewer teeth engage on small rings. (32t and 36t triple middle rings being the most commonly replaced 'worn out' sizes) Definitive overview hehttp://draco.acs.uci.edu/rbfaq/FAQ/8d.2.html short answer: No definitive measurable limit off the bike. DNM wrote: But, realistically, if one uses Campy or Shimano chains that have no easy-to-break links, removing a chain to lube this days is quite difficult. I clean my chains on the bike, use Pro-Link lube, and change my chains once per year or so and they are not beyond 1/16" in 12" by that time (i.e. almost no wear in 5000 miles). I do join my chains with a removable KMC missing-Link, but that is a one-time use link and I generally leave the chain on the bike for its life. What do others use and do you still remove the chain to clean it? We think KMC's 'one time use' admonishment is overstated. -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April, 1971 Yup. Re-use em all the time. No issues. -- Dan Burkhart |
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