Q: How to avoid corrosion/rust/gunk in shifter cables?

Last year I re-built a MTB in preparation for fall/winter. I used 5mm
housing (brake/shift) unlubricated stainless cables, and followed the
'rules' for good cable routing.

Shifting performance degraded rapidly after the first couple of months
due to corrosion/rust/gunk in the last section of housing connected to
the rear derailleur (metal ferrules). The cable stop in my derailleur
is full of rust too. No problems with the rest of the drivetrain.

Is there a sensible way to 'seal' the lowest section of housing to
prevent this from happening? 5mm plastic ferrules? Rubber gaskets?
Heatshrink? Grease? I live in a wet climate, which compounds the
problem. LBS recommends Gore Ride-On (but also says the new version
isn't as good as the originals and I'm not interested in spending $75
on a solution).

Ideas/recommendations? I'm thinking that heatshrink may work for the
section of housing connected to the derailleur, but I can't think of
anything to use for the other end (i.e. the first exposed cable
section on the seatstay). Maybe full-length housing, or a length of
housing that runs up to the cable stop nearest the seat tube?

Borrall Wonnell wrote:
Last year I re-built a MTB in preparation for fall/winter. I used 5mm
housing (brake/shift) unlubricated stainless cables, and followed the
'rules' for good cable routing.

Shifting performance degraded rapidly after the first couple of months
due to corrosion/rust/gunk in the last section of housing connected to
the rear derailleur (metal ferrules). The cable stop in my derailleur
is full of rust too. No problems with the rest of the drivetrain.

Is there a sensible way to 'seal' the lowest section of housing to
prevent this from happening? 5mm plastic ferrules? Rubber gaskets?
Heatshrink? Grease? I live in a wet climate, which compounds the
problem. LBS recommends Gore Ride-On (but also says the new version
isn't as good as the originals and I'm not interested in spending $75
on a solution).

Ideas/recommendations? I'm thinking that heatshrink may work for the
section of housing connected to the derailleur, but I can't think of
anything to use for the other end (i.e. the first exposed cable
section on the seatstay). Maybe full-length housing, or a length of
housing that runs up to the cable stop nearest the seat tube?


Is it rusting at the derailleur end or the chainstay end? Used to be
you could get a little rubber bellowsy thing that would seal that cable
to the stop on the chainstay. Don't know if they're still available,
but I've seen similar boots on V-brakes.

If it's at the derailleur end... um... I don't have any really good
ideas for you

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

On 09/20/2009 09:33 AM, Borrall Wonnell wrote:
Last year I re-built a MTB in preparation for fall/winter. I used 5mm
housing (brake/shift) unlubricated stainless cables, and followed the
'rules' for good cable routing.

Shifting performance degraded rapidly after the first couple of months
due to corrosion/rust/gunk in the last section of housing connected to
the rear derailleur (metal ferrules). The cable stop in my derailleur
is full of rust too. No problems with the rest of the drivetrain.

Is there a sensible way to 'seal' the lowest section of housing to
prevent this from happening? 5mm plastic ferrules? Rubber gaskets?
Heatshrink? Grease? I live in a wet climate, which compounds the
problem. LBS recommends Gore Ride-On (but also says the new version
isn't as good as the originals and I'm not interested in spending $75
on a solution).

Ideas/recommendations? I'm thinking that heatshrink may work for the
section of housing connected to the derailleur, but I can't think of
anything to use for the other end (i.e. the first exposed cable
section on the seatstay). Maybe full-length housing, or a length of
housing that runs up to the cable stop nearest the seat tube?


why on earth do you think you need 5mm shifter housing??? use 4mm
housing and the shimano plastic ferrules that come with it. if you look
inside, you'll see little o-ring seals. problem solved.

On 20 Sep., 18:33, Borrall Wonnell wrote:

Is there a sensible way to 'seal' the lowest section of housing to
prevent this from happening? 5mm plastic ferrules? Rubber gaskets?
Heatshrink? Grease? I live in a wet climate, which compounds the
problem. LBS recommends Gore Ride-On (but also says the new version
isn't as good as the originals and I'm not interested in spending $75
on a solution).

You can attach nosed end caps to your existing cables like these from
Jagwire called called "Cable Raincoats" (notice diameter though) :
http://www.jagwireusa.com/img/products/lg/CHA062-BJ.jpg
http://www.jagwireusa.com/index.php/products/road/517

The long nose acts as an extra seal and protects the part of the cable
that moves in and out the the cables housing, both protecting that
cable stretch from rusting easily, and prevents that it carries
contamination inside the cable housing.There are lots of other
producers of such extra sealed end caps.

If you need new cables anyway Jagwire "Ripcord" cable kits are sealed
from shifter to derailleur by using thin cable liner on the "long"
stretches. Should be much cheaper than "Ride On".

I believe that both Shimano and Jaqwire uses Silicone based grease as
cable lubricants: it repels water and can make a physical barrier that
prevents water and dirt ingress. It can also acts as a filler to
prevent condensation water to freeze inside the cable (mostly an issue
for internal gear hubs). Lubricates but doesn't gum up even at very
low temperatures, is a corrosion-inhibitor, doesn't attract dirt like
normal grease does, or attack or swell rubber sealings etc. All in all
Silicone based grease have good properties that makes it an excellent
choice for lubricating cable housings used in rough weather riding,
which is probably why Shimano and others uses it for their cables.
Silicone spray cans are good at cleaning already contaminated cable
housings. Silicone spray cans can be had almost everywhere, but
Silicone based grease can be harder to find.

Teflon lined cable housings are good, but Teflon lined wires are
allegedly a waste of money since the Teflon quickly flakes off.
Long nosed end caps and Silicone grease in the cable house should be a
cheap upgrade to your existing cables that works very well against
rusting cables, and.water and dirt intrusion.

--
Regards

In article
,
Borrall Wonnell wrote:

Last year I re-built a MTB in preparation for fall/winter. I used 5mm
housing (brake/shift) unlubricated stainless cables, and followed the
'rules' for good cable routing.

Shifting performance degraded rapidly after the first couple of months
due to corrosion/rust/gunk in the last section of housing connected to
the rear derailleur (metal ferrules). The cable stop in my derailleur
is full of rust too. No problems with the rest of the drivetrain.

Is there a sensible way to 'seal' the lowest section of housing to
prevent this from happening? 5mm plastic ferrules? Rubber gaskets?
Heatshrink? Grease? I live in a wet climate, which compounds the
problem. LBS recommends Gore Ride-On (but also says the new version
isn't as good as the originals and I'm not interested in spending $75
on a solution).

Ideas/recommendations? I'm thinking that heatshrink may work for the
section of housing connected to the derailleur, but I can't think of
anything to use for the other end (i.e. the first exposed cable
section on the seatstay). Maybe full-length housing, or a length of
housing that runs up to the cable stop nearest the seat tube?

If you drench equipment, water will get in so if you are
trying to seal against water your are shoveling against
the tide. Better to design in weep holes, and not have
basins in the cable housing run. House painters do not
caulk bottom seams.

I have a palm size grease gun with an 18 gauge hypodermic
needle at the business end to inject grease into cable
housing runs.

--
Michael Press

On Sep 20, 12:33*pm, Borrall Wonnell wrote:
Last year I re-built a MTB in preparation for fall/winter. *I used 5mm
housing (brake/shift) unlubricated stainless cables, and followed the
'rules' for good cable routing.

Shifting performance degraded rapidly after the first couple of months
due to corrosion/rust/gunk in the last section of housing connected to
the rear derailleur (metal ferrules). *The cable stop in my derailleur
is full of rust too. *No problems with the rest of the drivetrain.

Is there a sensible way to 'seal' the lowest section of housing to
prevent this from happening?

My first mountaing bike had a low-mounted cable loop to send the cable
up to the front derailleur. It caught water and caused rust probems,
plus freezing problems in the winter.

I greased that section of cable well, and I put dabs of silicon seal
caulk on each end of the cable. As I recall, it helped a lot. (That
bikes been gone for years now.)

- Frank Krygowski

On 20 Sep, 21:47, "Peter S." wrote:
On 20 Sep., 18:33, Borrall Wonnell wrote:

Is there a sensible way to 'seal' the lowest section of housing to
prevent this from happening? *5mm plastic ferrules? *Rubber gaskets?
Heatshrink? *Grease? *I live in a wet climate, which compounds the
problem. *LBS recommends Gore Ride-On (but also says the new version
isn't as good as the originals and I'm not interested in spending $75
on a solution).

You can attach nosed end caps to your existing cables like these from
Jagwire called called "Cable Raincoats" (notice diameter though) :http://www.jagwireusa.com/img/produc...ducts/road/517

The long nose acts as an extra seal and protects the part of the cable
that moves in and out the the cables housing, both protecting that
cable stretch from rusting easily, and prevents that it carries
contamination inside the cable housing.There are lots of other
producers of such extra sealed end caps.

If you need new cables anyway Jagwire "Ripcord" cable kits are sealed
from shifter to derailleur by using thin cable liner on the "long"
stretches. Should be much cheaper than "Ride On".

I believe that both Shimano and Jaqwire uses Silicone based grease as
cable lubricants: it repels water and can make a physical barrier that
prevents water and dirt ingress. It can also acts as a filler to
prevent condensation water to freeze inside the cable (mostly an issue
for internal gear hubs). Lubricates but doesn't gum up even at very
low temperatures, is a corrosion-inhibitor, doesn't attract dirt like
normal grease does, or attack or swell rubber sealings etc. All in all
Silicone based grease have good properties that makes it an excellent
choice for lubricating cable housings used in rough weather riding,
which is probably why Shimano and others uses it for their cables.
Silicone spray cans are good at cleaning already contaminated cable
housings. Silicone spray cans can be had almost everywhere, but
Silicone based grease can be harder to find.

Model shops, used in gearboxes or electronics supply, used for
waterproofing, corrosion resistance, oxidation and barrier for
abrasive particles. Quite a good recommendation for gear cables,
although I've been satisfied with any liquid lubricant in unlined
cables, although graphited grease used to be the choice (messy) , and
silicon spray in lined cables.

waxing the inner wire where it enters the sleeve, just drip a candle
on it, should also provide the necessary protection.


Teflon lined cable housings are good, but Teflon lined wires are
allegedly a waste of money since the Teflon quickly flakes off.
Long nosed end caps and Silicone grease in the cable house should be a
cheap upgrade to your existing cables that works very well against
rusting cables, and.water and dirt intrusion.

--
Regards

Peter S. wrote:
Silicone spray cans can be had almost everywhere, but
Silicone based grease can be harder to find.

I buy it at the auto parts store. There it's called "dielectric grease"
-- used for ignition wire boots typically. The can I bought was
pressurized like Cheese Whiz, which didn't work so well. I pulled out
the valve & use a Popsicle stick to dispense.

On Sep 21, 9:08*am, Peter Cole wrote:
Peter S. wrote:
Silicone spray cans can be had almost everywhere, but
Silicone based grease can be harder to find.

I buy it at the auto parts store. There it's called "dielectric grease"
-- used for ignition wire boots typically. The can I bought was
pressurized like Cheese Whiz, which didn't work so well. I pulled out
the valve & use a Popsicle stick to dispense.

you could also use a tube of "Sil-Glyde" which is a silicone based
grease (commonly found at your FLAPS) and manually lube the cable
before running it into the housing.

nate

Borrall Wonnell wrote:
Last year I re-built a MTB in preparation for fall/winter. I used 5mm
housing (brake/shift) unlubricated stainless cables, and followed the
'rules' for good cable routing.

Shifting performance degraded rapidly after the first couple of months
due to corrosion/rust/gunk in the last section of housing connected to
the rear derailleur (metal ferrules). The cable stop in my derailleur
is full of rust too. No problems with the rest of the drivetrain.

Is there a sensible way to 'seal' the lowest section of housing to
prevent this from happening? 5mm plastic ferrules? Rubber gaskets?
Heatshrink? Grease? I live in a wet climate, which compounds the
problem. LBS recommends Gore Ride-On (but also says the new version
isn't as good as the originals and I'm not interested in spending $75
on a solution).

Ideas/recommendations? I'm thinking that heatshrink may work for the
section of housing connected to the derailleur, but I can't think of
anything to use for the other end (i.e. the first exposed cable
section on the seatstay). Maybe full-length housing, or a length of
housing that runs up to the cable stop nearest the seat tube?


I favor full length housing for that kind of environment.

The "final loop" on rear derailer cables is usually the most
troublesome. On bikes that I haven't run full housing, I just replace it
fairly frequently.