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Cheap bright tail light



 
 
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  #11  
Old August 30th 14, 01:41 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Sir Ridesalot
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 5,270
Default Cheap bright tail light

On Friday, August 29, 2014 7:51:05 PM UTC-4, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 8/29/2014 7:01 PM, Joerg wrote:

Frank Krygowski wrote:




The problem is that (at least in the U.S.) few people ride at night.


People think it's hideously dangerous. And of course they all have


cars. So the market is small.




And most of those who do ride at night tend to do it pretty rarely, only


in near-ideal conditions, because they're doing it only for fun. So


they tend to be pretty easy on their equipment. If it lasts only 50


hours, they'll get perhaps ten years use out of it.






That is because hardly anyone commutes anymore which is sad.




Oh, but that's not true! Everyone knows that bike use is surging! Why,

as this article states,

http://www.slate.com/blogs/the_slate...t_popular.html

"Bicycle Commuting Rates Rocket From 0.5 Percent to 0.6 Percent in Only

32 Years!"



According to the League of American Bicyclist's usual modus operandi,

that should be trumpeted as a 20% increase!!! ;-)



Serious


commuting means including winter and then one or both trips will require


lights. So 50 hours would be gone in a month or two. I run through


batteries as if it was popcorn. Environmentally not so cool. Luckily the


front one on the MTB is Li-Ion but one of them already starts to fade.




Yep. Another couple reasons to love generators or dynamos. They last

damned near forever, and low temperatures don't bother them.



Also, regarding one of your specific complaints, most people don't see a


need to run wires from a central battery to a taillight. AA or AAA


batteries in taillights last a long, long time and are easy to buy and


change.






You cannot get any serious light out of AAA and that's all you normally


find. A 2W LED will suck AAA dry in very few hours.




Do you really need 2 Watts into a rear red LED? Even bog standard red

LEDs are pretty efficient, in terms of lumens per watt. And since

you're moving with traffic, motorists generally have plenty of time to

spot you.



Everyone else has heard this from me before, but: I heartily recommend

enlisting a helper, and observing your bike and it's nighttime equipment

in your normal traffic conditions. Have your helper ride the bike, and

drive past him from various directions.



I've done this every once in a while since about 1978 or so. (Actually,

in '78, I did the riding, my wife did the driving, and my son did the

note taking.) I've also done it several times with bike club members, a

couple times as a formal "night lighting workshop."



I mention this because people have invariably learned that it doesn't

require huge outputs of dollars or lumens to make a cyclist very

conspicuous at night. Except for my now modern headlights, most of my

night equipment is very ordinary, and there have been many times (at

least six) that I've gotten spontaneous compliments from motorists,

pedestrians, and other cyclists on how well my lights and reflectors

show up. (And don't forget, reflectors and reflective tape can work very

well - especially low on the bike, and on moving parts.)



You should try testing your bike's lights that way. It may give you

peace of mind.



--

- Frank Krygowski


Joerg has often lamented tthe breakages of lights he's tried. In the severely rough usage he subjects them to I think and exposed wire from a dynamo would be very quickly snagged and broken or ripped out of the hunit or dynamo.

Many AA or AAA tail lights are quite bright especially on trails and some are too bright for a following rider.

I bought two very bright high-beam type headlights. I wanted an extra battery for my long overnight rides. I use one of the lights in conjunction withmy Cygo Lite Rover II light.

One of the high-beam type headlights developed a break in the cable where it plugs into the battery. After repairing the cable the light only operates in the blinking mode. Ah well all is not lost since i painted the lense amber and mounted it as a rear light Quite bright, blinking and amber = something motorists know should be avoided by them. A cheap red reflector on the rear of the seat post makes the bike night legal under Ontario, Canada law.

Cheers
Ads
  #12  
Old August 30th 14, 05:39 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Joerg[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 6,016
Default Cheap bright tail light

Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Friday, August 29, 2014 7:51:05 PM UTC-4, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 8/29/2014 7:01 PM, Joerg wrote:

Frank Krygowski wrote:
The problem is that (at least in the U.S.) few people ride at
night. People think it's hideously dangerous. And of course
they all have cars. So the market is small. And most of those
who do ride at night tend to do it pretty rarely, only in
near-ideal conditions, because they're doing it only for fun.
So they tend to be pretty easy on their equipment. If it lasts
only 50 hours, they'll get perhaps ten years use out of it.
That is because hardly anyone commutes anymore which is sad.



Oh, but that's not true! Everyone knows that bike use is surging!
Why,

as this article states,

http://www.slate.com/blogs/the_slate...t_popular.html


"Bicycle Commuting Rates Rocket From 0.5 Percent to 0.6 Percent in
Only

32 Years!"



According to the League of American Bicyclist's usual modus
operandi,

that should be trumpeted as a 20% increase!!! ;-)



Serious


commuting means including winter and then one or both trips will
require lights. So 50 hours would be gone in a month or two. I
run through batteries as if it was popcorn. Environmentally not
so cool. Luckily the front one on the MTB is Li-Ion but one of
them already starts to fade.



Yep. Another couple reasons to love generators or dynamos. They
last

damned near forever, and low temperatures don't bother them.



Also, regarding one of your specific complaints, most people
don't see a need to run wires from a central battery to a
taillight. AA or AAA batteries in taillights last a long, long
time and are easy to buy and change.
You cannot get any serious light out of AAA and that's all you
normally find. A 2W LED will suck AAA dry in very few hours.



Do you really need 2 Watts into a rear red LED? Even bog standard
red

LEDs are pretty efficient, in terms of lumens per watt. And since


you're moving with traffic, motorists generally have plenty of time
to

spot you.



Everyone else has heard this from me before, but: I heartily
recommend

enlisting a helper, and observing your bike and it's nighttime
equipment

in your normal traffic conditions. Have your helper ride the bike,
and

drive past him from various directions.



I've done this every once in a while since about 1978 or so.
(Actually,

in '78, I did the riding, my wife did the driving, and my son did
the

note taking.) I've also done it several times with bike club
members, a

couple times as a formal "night lighting workshop."



I mention this because people have invariably learned that it
doesn't

require huge outputs of dollars or lumens to make a cyclist very

conspicuous at night. Except for my now modern headlights, most of
my

night equipment is very ordinary, and there have been many times
(at

least six) that I've gotten spontaneous compliments from motorists,


pedestrians, and other cyclists on how well my lights and
reflectors

show up. (And don't forget, reflectors and reflective tape can work
very

well - especially low on the bike, and on moving parts.)



You should try testing your bike's lights that way. It may give you


peace of mind.



--

- Frank Krygowski


Joerg has often lamented tthe breakages of lights he's tried. In the
severely rough usage he subjects them to I think and exposed wire
from a dynamo would be very quickly snagged and broken or ripped out
of the hunit or dynamo.


Actually, no, provided it's done right. I have used wires on my road
bike that was extensively used on trails and dirt roads in the 80's and
early 90's. Stuff never failed back then, the quality of bicycle gear
seemed to have been better.

For cables in rough turf there is a very simple solution. Run then in
conduit. Look at the hydraulic brake likes of the shifter cables. Do
they ever tear off or get crushed by a rock hit?


Many AA or AAA tail lights are quite bright especially on trails and
some are too bright for a following rider.


But you never know when they run out of juice because the manufacturer's
engineers can't get it into their heads that there should be a charge
level indicator. Technically a piece of cake, you measure the voltage
sag upon pulsing and when that exceeds the 80% or whatever discharge
mark let the light flash a bit more irregular than usual. Then the rider
would still have time to get homes safely but would know that a fresh
set of batteries or a Li-Ion recharge is required soon. When do they
wake up?

I've had it happen twice that my front light faded out during a ride.
That is not cool at all. And fully avoidable.

Because of this I use two independent tail lights on my mountain bike
and while on roads during the night both are turned on. On rural roads a
tail light that has gone dark is almost a guarantee to get hit by a car
from behind.

[...]

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/
  #13  
Old August 30th 14, 05:58 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Sir Ridesalot
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 5,270
Default Cheap bright tail light

On Saturday, August 30, 2014 12:39:24 PM UTC-4, Joerg wrote:
Sir Ridesalot wrote:

On Friday, August 29, 2014 7:51:05 PM UTC-4, Frank Krygowski wrote:


On 8/29/2014 7:01 PM, Joerg wrote:




Frank Krygowski wrote:


The problem is that (at least in the U.S.) few people ride at


night. People think it's hideously dangerous. And of course


they all have cars. So the market is small. And most of those


who do ride at night tend to do it pretty rarely, only in


near-ideal conditions, because they're doing it only for fun.


So they tend to be pretty easy on their equipment. If it lasts


only 50 hours, they'll get perhaps ten years use out of it.


That is because hardly anyone commutes anymore which is sad.






Oh, but that's not true! Everyone knows that bike use is surging!


Why,




as this article states,




http://www.slate.com/blogs/the_slate...t_popular.html






"Bicycle Commuting Rates Rocket From 0.5 Percent to 0.6 Percent in


Only




32 Years!"








According to the League of American Bicyclist's usual modus


operandi,




that should be trumpeted as a 20% increase!!! ;-)








Serious




commuting means including winter and then one or both trips will


require lights. So 50 hours would be gone in a month or two. I


run through batteries as if it was popcorn. Environmentally not


so cool. Luckily the front one on the MTB is Li-Ion but one of


them already starts to fade.






Yep. Another couple reasons to love generators or dynamos. They


last




damned near forever, and low temperatures don't bother them.








Also, regarding one of your specific complaints, most people


don't see a need to run wires from a central battery to a


taillight. AA or AAA batteries in taillights last a long, long


time and are easy to buy and change.


You cannot get any serious light out of AAA and that's all you


normally find. A 2W LED will suck AAA dry in very few hours.






Do you really need 2 Watts into a rear red LED? Even bog standard


red




LEDs are pretty efficient, in terms of lumens per watt. And since






you're moving with traffic, motorists generally have plenty of time


to




spot you.








Everyone else has heard this from me before, but: I heartily


recommend




enlisting a helper, and observing your bike and it's nighttime


equipment




in your normal traffic conditions. Have your helper ride the bike,


and




drive past him from various directions.








I've done this every once in a while since about 1978 or so.


(Actually,




in '78, I did the riding, my wife did the driving, and my son did


the




note taking.) I've also done it several times with bike club


members, a




couple times as a formal "night lighting workshop."








I mention this because people have invariably learned that it


doesn't




require huge outputs of dollars or lumens to make a cyclist very




conspicuous at night. Except for my now modern headlights, most of


my




night equipment is very ordinary, and there have been many times


(at




least six) that I've gotten spontaneous compliments from motorists,






pedestrians, and other cyclists on how well my lights and


reflectors




show up. (And don't forget, reflectors and reflective tape can work


very




well - especially low on the bike, and on moving parts.)








You should try testing your bike's lights that way. It may give you






peace of mind.








--




- Frank Krygowski




Joerg has often lamented tthe breakages of lights he's tried. In the


severely rough usage he subjects them to I think and exposed wire


from a dynamo would be very quickly snagged and broken or ripped out


of the hunit or dynamo.






Actually, no, provided it's done right. I have used wires on my road

bike that was extensively used on trails and dirt roads in the 80's and

early 90's. Stuff never failed back then, the quality of bicycle gear

seemed to have been better.



For cables in rough turf there is a very simple solution. Run then in

conduit. Look at the hydraulic brake likes of the shifter cables. Do

they ever tear off or get crushed by a rock hit?





Many AA or AAA tail lights are quite bright especially on trails and


some are too bright for a following rider.






But you never know when they run out of juice because the manufacturer's

engineers can't get it into their heads that there should be a charge

level indicator. Technically a piece of cake, you measure the voltage

sag upon pulsing and when that exceeds the 80% or whatever discharge

mark let the light flash a bit more irregular than usual. Then the rider

would still have time to get homes safely but would know that a fresh

set of batteries or a Li-Ion recharge is required soon. When do they

wake up?



I've had it happen twice that my front light faded out during a ride.

That is not cool at all. And fully avoidable.



Because of this I use two independent tail lights on my mountain bike

and while on roads during the night both are turned on. On rural roads a

tail light that has gone dark is almost a guarantee to get hit by a car

from behind.



[...]



--

Regards, Joerg



http://www.analogconsultants.com/


My Cygo Lite Rover II has a indicator on top of the headlight housing and tthat indicator glows red when the battery is running low.

Cheers
  #14  
Old August 30th 14, 06:33 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Joerg[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 6,016
Default Cheap bright tail light

Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Saturday, August 30, 2014 12:39:24 PM UTC-4, Joerg wrote:
Sir Ridesalot wrote:


[...]



Many AA or AAA tail lights are quite bright especially on trails
and some are too bright for a following rider.



But you never know when they run out of juice because the
manufacturer's

engineers can't get it into their heads that there should be a
charge

level indicator. Technically a piece of cake, you measure the
voltage

sag upon pulsing and when that exceeds the 80% or whatever
discharge

mark let the light flash a bit more irregular than usual. Then the
rider

would still have time to get homes safely but would know that a
fresh

set of batteries or a Li-Ion recharge is required soon. When do
they

wake up?



I've had it happen twice that my front light faded out during a
ride.

That is not cool at all. And fully avoidable.



Because of this I use two independent tail lights on my mountain
bike

and while on roads during the night both are turned on. On rural
roads a

tail light that has gone dark is almost a guarantee to get hit by a
car

from behind.



[...]



--

Regards, Joerg



http://www.analogconsultants.com/


My Cygo Lite Rover II has a indicator on top of the headlight housing
and tthat indicator glows red when the battery is running low.


Some of the better front lights have that. But the problem is with tail
lights. You can always see when a front light dims away. Happened to me
twice and is very annoying but at least I can adjust my riding to it or
stop riding. When the tail light goes out this will be unnoticed by the
riders and unless you get warnings by honking car drivers you run the
risk of being rear-ended or side-swiped.

On my road bike I often bend down and look under the seat. On my MTB I
can't see the tail light because it's aluminum-encapsulated against rock
hits and stuff. So I have two tail lights. That is only necessary
because they failed to put in a low-bat warning.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/
  #15  
Old August 30th 14, 07:16 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
[email protected]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 6,374
Default Cheap bright tail light

$13 ?

eheheyayayyaya.....awcomon Dude $13


http://goo.gl/F09v8p

the Canadian has the answer: facing a headlamp backwards with red lens coloration.

I'm this after lunch with a small Hella for backup with yellow bulb.

beep beep beep beep

with a voice sez:

atención atención el camión se está moviendo hacia atrás
  #16  
Old August 30th 14, 11:37 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
[email protected]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 6,374
Default Cheap bright tail light

I have mild success fogging a light mist of candy apple red lacquer over lexan
  #17  
Old August 31st 14, 03:52 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Frank Krygowski[_4_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 10,538
Default Cheap bright tail light

On 8/30/2014 1:33 PM, Joerg wrote:


Some of the better front lights have that. But the problem is with tail
lights. You can always see when a front light dims away. Happened to me
twice and is very annoying but at least I can adjust my riding to it or
stop riding. When the tail light goes out this will be unnoticed by the
riders and unless you get warnings by honking car drivers you run the
risk of being rear-ended or side-swiped.

On my road bike I often bend down and look under the seat. On my MTB I
can't see the tail light because it's aluminum-encapsulated against rock
hits and stuff. So I have two tail lights. That is only necessary
because they failed to put in a low-bat warning.


I've thought about running a bit of fiber-optic cable to give me
confirmation of my lights working. So far, I haven't decided it was
worth the trouble.

--
- Frank Krygowski
  #18  
Old August 31st 14, 02:00 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
[email protected]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 6,374
Default Cheap bright tail light

On Saturday, August 30, 2014 10:52:36 PM UTC-4, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 8/30/2014 1:33 PM, Joerg wrote:





Some of the better front lights have that. But the problem is with tail


lights. You can always see when a front light dims away. Happened to me


twice and is very annoying but at least I can adjust my riding to it or


stop riding. When the tail light goes out this will be unnoticed by the


riders and unless you get warnings by honking car drivers you run the


risk of being rear-ended or side-swiped.




On my road bike I often bend down and look under the seat. On my MTB I


can't see the tail light because it's aluminum-encapsulated against rock


hits and stuff. So I have two tail lights. That is only necessary


because they failed to put in a low-bat warning.




I've thought about running a bit of fiber-optic cable to give me

confirmation of my lights working. So far, I haven't decided it was

worth the trouble.



--

- Frank Krygowski


^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^EIR

http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a...-alerts/1.html
  #19  
Old August 31st 14, 09:43 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Joerg[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 6,016
Default Cheap bright tail light

Phil W Lee wrote:
Joerg considered Fri, 29 Aug 2014
17:37:38 -0700 the perfect time to write:

Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 8/29/2014 7:01 PM, Joerg wrote:
Frank Krygowski wrote:
The problem is that (at least in the U.S.) few people ride at night.
People think it's hideously dangerous. And of course they all have
cars. So the market is small.

And most of those who do ride at night tend to do it pretty rarely, only
in near-ideal conditions, because they're doing it only for fun. So
they tend to be pretty easy on their equipment. If it lasts only 50
hours, they'll get perhaps ten years use out of it.

That is because hardly anyone commutes anymore which is sad.
Oh, but that's not true! Everyone knows that bike use is surging! Why,
as this article states,
http://www.slate.com/blogs/the_slate...t_popular.html

"Bicycle Commuting Rates Rocket From 0.5 Percent to 0.6 Percent in Only
32 Years!"

According to the League of American Bicyclist's usual modus operandi,
that should be trumpeted as a 20% increase!!! ;-)

:-)

But I do have to say that since they started putting in more bike paths
and bike lanes it has picked up more than that here in the last 7-8
years. To the point where new bike dealers are opening while until 2005
they were dying left and right.

I also see some more longhaul commuters in road bikes.

What is sad is that some beautiful trails out here are barely used. When
I see another montain biker there we great each other enthusiastically
because that happens maybe once a month and I ride them 2-3 times a week.

I don't find it all that surprising that few people commute on
mountain bike trails, particularly ones which (by your own evidence)
are so brutal on the bike.



But they are fun :-)


Serious
commuting means including winter and then one or both trips will require
lights. So 50 hours would be gone in a month or two. I run through
batteries as if it was popcorn. Environmentally not so cool. Luckily the
front one on the MTB is Li-Ion but one of them already starts to fade.
Yep. Another couple reasons to love generators or dynamos. They last
damned near forever, and low temperatures don't bother them.

Only as long as there is also a sizeable rechargeable battery.

Sizeable enough for the whole half hour that you are moving slow
enough to need it?



With a dynamo, yes. But ...


I'm sure it wouldn't be hard to bleed off the spare power when you are
going over 15kmh to recharge it ready for the next hill.
You need to rectify it for an LED anyway.
It's so easy that B&M have already done it - the Ixon IQ has a pack of
four NiMH AAs and a charge socket on the bottom, into which you can
plug the ride & charge cable from a hub dynamo.
That would give you 5 hours of use at full power without any input
from the dynamo at all, and any time you are doing more than 15kmh,
it's charging, even with the light on full power.



That is good, four NiMH are ok. However, dynamos pretty much zonk out
around 4-5W. If you want a 2W tail light (and I do) and in order to see
enough trail a 5-10W front light, that's going to be a challenge. So
I'll be going the Li-Ion route and no dynamo, or maybe a small bottle
dynamo for emergency like I have on the road bike.


Also, regarding one of your specific complaints, most people don't see a
need to run wires from a central battery to a taillight. AA or AAA
batteries in taillights last a long, long time and are easy to buy and
change.

You cannot get any serious light out of AAA and that's all you normally
find. A 2W LED will suck AAA dry in very few hours.
Do you really need 2 Watts into a rear red LED?


Oh yeah.


Why?
In Germany it is standardised on 0.6w even for filament bulbs, and
they don't seem to have any serious problems with rear-end collisions.



They do. One of my former class mates ended up losing a kidney, the
other landed in the hospital with a ruptured spleen. And I personally
witnessed a side swipe accident in Germany. But I live in the US so I am
not bound by this stupid 3W total dynamo power law.


Mind you, the design is fairly tightly controlled, so light output is
well distributed in the areas where it is needed, instead of projected
down a narrow beam.



Well, in the bush you need a bit more, including a good overhead
illumination to spot branches that could snap your helmet. On the road
I'd turn that off. Some lights have that feature but it's often
implemented crudely via 3-4 LEDs instead of just one, and so far I only
found cheap Chinese lights like that. Possibly I'll have to buy one and
try to ruggedize it like I did with my current light.


... Even bog standard red
LEDs are pretty efficient, in terms of lumens per watt. And since
you're moving with traffic, motorists generally have plenty of time to
spot you.

Everyone else has heard this from me before, but: I heartily recommend
enlisting a helper, and observing your bike and it's nighttime equipment
in your normal traffic conditions. Have your helper ride the bike, and
drive past him from various directions.

I've done this every once in a while since about 1978 or so. (Actually,
in '78, I did the riding, my wife did the driving, and my son did the
note taking.) I've also done it several times with bike club members, a
couple times as a formal "night lighting workshop."

I mention this because people have invariably learned that it doesn't
require huge outputs of dollars or lumens to make a cyclist very
conspicuous at night. Except for my now modern headlights, most of my
night equipment is very ordinary, and there have been many times (at
least six) that I've gotten spontaneous compliments from motorists,
pedestrians, and other cyclists on how well my lights and reflectors
show up. (And don't forget, reflectors and reflective tape can work very
well - especially low on the bike, and on moving parts.)

You should try testing your bike's lights that way. It may give you
peace of mind.

On my road bike that's true. It is hugely decked out with reflectors and
I don't need lots of lumens and the light does not have to be full metal
or very sturdy. On the front I need something better though because I
need to see farther out for top speed.

On the MTB that's all different. No space for reflectors, everything I
tried flew off. A small light gives inattentive drivers the impression
that something is far away and I had a few close calls. I mostly like to
be seen also during the day and I want my tail light to stand out from
the crowd. So that despite it's small size people wake up and think
"Whoa, there's something weird up there".

I see that on county roads where bikers with really bright lights stand
out. You see them from half a mile away and can easily prepare for the
time you have to pass them.


Anything more than a couple of hundred yards is counterproductive, a
it gives drivers time to forget you.
Light output is over-rated - what helps most is the area of the
illuminated part of the light, as that is what clues drivers in to the
rate of closure ("it's getting bigger, it must be closer", instead of
"it's still so far off it's only a point source").



I've seen different. There is a long rural road out here and with a few
bike riders you think a locomotive is coming. Theyr tail lights are
equally impressive and care drivers give them a lot of room. As if they
wee afraid they'd bite or maybe think it's police.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/
  #20  
Old August 31st 14, 10:00 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Joerg[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 6,016
Default Cheap bright tail light

wrote:
$13 ?

eheheyayayyaya.....awcomon Dude $13


http://goo.gl/F09v8p

the Canadian has the answer: facing a headlamp backwards with red lens coloration.

I'm this after lunch with a small Hella for backup with yellow bulb.

beep beep beep beep

with a voice sez:

atención atención el camión se está moviendo hacia atrás



Works with bulbs but LEDs have very narrow spectral bands. I've tried a
red filter in front of my fairly powerful LED front light and it made it
rather dim.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/
 




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