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#1
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Cup & Cone Bottom Brackets - Any Sources?
I am looking for a source for high-quality conventional cup & cone BBs
(JIS square taper). Ritchey used to still make some but they are no longer shown on his site. Any ideas? |
#2
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Cup & Cone Bottom Brackets - Any Sources?
On Mar 25, 6:29*am, Hands Of Stone wrote:
I am looking for a source for high-quality conventional cup & cone BBs (JIS square taper). *Ritchey used to still make some but they are no longer shown on his site. *Any ideas? Any particular reason a cartridge BB won't work for you? FWIW--I believe the new version house brand square taper BB at Nashbar is being made by RPM in Taiwan and has an aluminum lock ring. Well made and a steal at $15. |
#3
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Cup & Cone Bottom Brackets - Any Sources?
On Mar 25, 6:09*am, landotter wrote:
On Mar 25, 6:29*am, Hands Of Stone wrote: I am looking for a source for high-quality conventional cup & cone BBs (JIS square taper). *Ritchey used to still make some but they are no longer shown on his site. *Any ideas? Any particular reason a cartridge BB won't work for you? FWIW--I believe the new version house brand square taper BB at Nashbar is being made by RPM in Taiwan and has an aluminum lock ring. Well made and a steal at $15. I bought one 2 weeks ago (for $10!) and it is indeed MUCH nicer than I expected. Alloy cups, very smooth bearings, very little seal drag. Made by TH Industries, AKA RPM, as you say. I'd intended on stealing the Truvativ out of another bike and using the Nashbar to replace it when I built my new CX, but this turned out to be the nicer part. I was quite impressed. |
#4
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Cup & Cone Bottom Brackets - Any Sources?
..
YEAH GET THE CARTRIDGE ride like Allworth take a look at the winter sale items-terramar balaclava and mid weight Nbar tights a steal. but wash carefully before wearing. Mex aren't rinsing after dyed cloth |
#5
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Cup & Cone Bottom Brackets - Any Sources?
On Mar 25, 3:56*pm, datakoll wrote:
. YEAH GET THE CARTRIDGE ride like Allworth take a look at the winter sale items-terramar *balaclava and mid weight Nbar tights a steal. but wash carefully before wearing. Mex aren't rinsing after dyed cloth Ha ha - get a free rash with every purchase? Good advice. I did manange to find a NOS Lightspeed TItanium BB (cartridge, still in the box, and unused, from 1990!) in my parts bins. But it's almost too crazy-light for me to trust.... |
#6
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Cup & Cone Bottom Brackets - Any Sources?
On Mar 25, 6:09*am, landotter wrote:
On Mar 25, 6:29*am, Hands Of Stone wrote: I am looking for a source for high-quality conventional cup & cone BBs (JIS square taper). *Ritchey used to still make some but they are no longer shown on his site. *Any ideas? Any particular reason a cartridge BB won't work for you? FWIW--I believe the new version house brand square taper BB at Nashbar is being made by RPM in Taiwan and has an aluminum lock ring. Well made and a steal at $15. No, I have nothing against cartridge. I just like everything about the old-school BBs (except for the fixed cup): I run'em cageless with a few extra balls, regrease and replace bearings (cheaply) when needed, plus I like being able to adjust the bearings. Why fix what ain't broke? Having said that, I may go with your idea as I am always a sucker for a good deal. |
#7
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Cup & Cone Bottom Brackets - Any Sources?
On Mar 26, 1:48*pm, Hands Of Stone wrote:
On Mar 25, 6:09*am, landotter wrote: On Mar 25, 6:29*am, Hands Of Stone wrote: I am looking for a source for high-quality conventional cup & cone BBs (JIS square taper). *Ritchey used to still make some but they are no longer shown on his site. *Any ideas? Any particular reason a cartridge BB won't work for you? FWIW--I believe the new version house brand square taper BB at Nashbar is being made by RPM in Taiwan and has an aluminum lock ring. Well made and a steal at $15. No, I have nothing against cartridge. *I just like everything about the old-school BBs (except for the fixed cup): I run'em cageless with a few extra balls, regrease and replace bearings (cheaply) when needed, plus I like being able to adjust the bearings. *Why fix what ain't broke? *Having said that, I may go with your idea as I am always a sucker for a good deal. It's a stupidly nice BB for the money. As much as I like loose ball hubs and headsets, which are easy to maintain--I do love cartridge BBs. I've never managed to wear one out--though the most miles I ever put on one was 30K on a UN73. It's a superior technology, for sure. Careful with the alloy cups, btw--you'll want to use loctite, these guys like to work loose if assembled with grease. |
#8
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Cup & Cone Bottom Brackets - Any Sources?
landotter wrote:
On Mar 25, 6:29Â*am, Hands Of Stone wrote: I am looking for a source for high-quality conventional cup & cone BBs (JIS square taper). Â*Ritchey used to still make some but they are no longer shown on his site. Â*Any ideas? Any particular reason a cartridge BB won't work for you? FWIW--I believe the new version house brand square taper BB at Nashbar is being made by RPM in Taiwan and has an aluminum lock ring. Well made and a steal at $15. Jobst Brandt |
#9
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Cup & Cone Bottom Brackets - Any Sources?
The current design of the BBs one of the last holdovers from ancient
times that is still a perpetual problem. As I mentioned before, if it has a left hand thread, the design is faulty, the thread being a crude patch for the design problem, just as it is for pedal threads that fail in spite of the orientation. Left hand threads are used to cover for a moving interface that tends to unscrews itself in use. As is visible on pedal crank faces, pedals regardless of tightening, move in their contact with the crank and by fretting erode the crank face. This erosion leads to cracks that cause pedal eyes to fracture and throw the rider to the ground if standing at the moment of failure. Like pedals, BB cups also fret in the BB shell but, with the larger thread, were moderately secure with right hand threads if tightened to nearly unmanageable torque. That is why left hand threads are used today to hide that they move. In time, the threads of the right hand cup or BB shell become eroded to oblivion in time depending on which of the two is the harder material. With steel hardened bearing cups, the BB shell loses all its threads while with aluminum cups, the right hand cup loses its threads. Shimano has used a clamping method for left crank attachment to the spindle that would also work for the BB. Meanwhile, cartridge bearings fret on the inside and outside while the retaining cup frets in the BB shell. That is what is wrong with the current design especially with cartridge bearings. In the short term, the current design works if monitored often and maintained, but when the thread is gone, it presents a difficult problem. Jobst Brandt |
#10
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Cup & Cone Bottom Brackets - Any Sources?
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