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#1
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carbon seatposts in carbon frames - TLC?
Hello everyone
My LBS said I need to pull out my carbon post from my carbon frame and wipe both with clean dry cloth every 1-3 months or riding (particularly if I ride in wet weather) to avoid the two "fusing" together permanently (very expensive situation since crushing carbon seat post would be the only way out in such a situation). Has anyone heard or seen such a thing? Is it a real risk or my LBS is overly paranoid? I am talking about 2005 Trek Madone 5.9 btw, if it makes any difference. Furthermore, how paranoid should I be when I tighten the bolt-clamp when securing my carbon seat post to avoid crushing the post or the carbon frame in which it resides? Do I really need to buy a torque wrench? thanks |
#2
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carbon seatposts in carbon frames - TLC?
Yuri Budilov wrote: Hello everyone My LBS said I need to pull out my carbon post from my carbon frame and wipe both with clean dry cloth every 1-3 months or riding (particularly if I ride in wet weather) to avoid the two "fusing" together permanently (very expensive situation since crushing carbon seat post would be the only way out in such a situation). Has anyone heard or seen such a thing? Is it a real risk or my LBS is overly paranoid? I am talking about 2005 Trek Madone 5.9 btw, if it makes any difference. Furthermore, how paranoid should I be when I tighten the bolt-clamp when securing my carbon seat post to avoid crushing the post or the carbon frame in which it resides? Do I really need to buy a torque wrench? thanks Good advice, I just saw a carbon post permanently bonded to a Trek 5900. Also, turn the clamp around 180 degrees. It will help to keep the seat tube hole rounder when you tighten the clamp to prevent crushing. Good idea for any seat post clamp and carbon post. |
#3
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carbon seatposts in carbon frames - TLC?
Qui si parla Campagnolo wrote:
Yuri Budilov wrote: Hello everyone My LBS said I need to pull out my carbon post from my carbon frame and wipe both with clean dry cloth every 1-3 months or riding (particularly if I ride in wet weather) to avoid the two "fusing" together permanently (very expensive situation since crushing carbon seat post would be the only way out in such a situation). Has anyone heard or seen such a thing? Is it a real risk or my LBS is overly paranoid? I am talking about 2005 Trek Madone 5.9 btw, if it makes any difference. Furthermore, how paranoid should I be when I tighten the bolt-clamp when securing my carbon seat post to avoid crushing the post or the carbon frame in which it resides? Do I really need to buy a torque wrench? thanks Good advice, I just saw a carbon post permanently bonded to a Trek 5900. Also, turn the clamp around 180 degrees. It will help to keep the seat tube hole rounder when you tighten the clamp to prevent crushing. Good idea for any seat post clamp and carbon post. Are you saying to place the clamp slot 180 degrees from the seat tube slot? Could you please explain a) how this is superior and b) why it wouldn't crush carbon composite material of the seat tube at the clamp slot anyway (or perhaps be more inclined to)? Curiously, I saw a Willier (sp?) carbon frame the other day with four seat tube slots and a clamp with a collet. Perhaps something like a handlebar clamp pulling two halves together? Robin Hubert |
#4
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carbon seatposts in carbon frames - TLC?
"Robin Hubert" wrote in message hlink.net... Qui si parla Campagnolo wrote: Yuri Budilov wrote: Hello everyone My LBS said I need to pull out my carbon post from my carbon frame and wipe both with clean dry cloth every 1-3 months or riding (particularly if I ride in wet weather) to avoid the two "fusing" together permanently (very expensive situation since crushing carbon seat post would be the only way out in such a situation). Has anyone heard or seen such a thing? Is it a real risk or my LBS is overly paranoid? I am talking about 2005 Trek Madone 5.9 btw, if it makes any difference. Furthermore, how paranoid should I be when I tighten the bolt-clamp when securing my carbon seat post to avoid crushing the post or the carbon frame in which it resides? Do I really need to buy a torque wrench? thanks Good advice, I just saw a carbon post permanently bonded to a Trek 5900. Also, turn the clamp around 180 degrees. It will help to keep the seat tube hole rounder when you tighten the clamp to prevent crushing. Good idea for any seat post clamp and carbon post. Are you saying to place the clamp slot 180 degrees from the seat tube slot? Could you please explain a) how this is superior and b) why it wouldn't crush carbon composite material of the seat tube at the clamp slot anyway (or perhaps be more inclined to)? Curiously, I saw a Willier (sp?) carbon frame the other day with four seat tube slots and a clamp with a collet. Perhaps something like a handlebar clamp pulling two halves together? Robin Hubert Hi I don't know the answers to your questions but I had a carbon Specialized Roubaix with carbon seat post and their instructions were exactly as the first reply said - bolt to be on the opposite side to where the crack/slit/whatever in the seat tube is - to prevent crashing the post. So I asked my LBS about this rule for Trek Madone and they said that Trek instructions were to place the bolt on the same side as crack/slit/etc not on opposite side. This is very puzzling for me too! But I hate to break Trek warranty by spinning the clamp around 180 degrees. Perhaps someone can send Trek support an e-mail question? I would if I knew where to send it to..... |
#5
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carbon seatposts in carbon frames - TLC?
"Yuri Budilov" wrote in message ... I don't know the answers to your questions but I had a carbon Specialized Roubaix with carbon seat post and their instructions were exactly as the first reply said - bolt to be on the opposite side to where the crack/slit/whatever in the seat tube is - to prevent crashing the post. So I asked my LBS about this rule for Trek Madone and they said that Trek instructions were to place the bolt on the same side as crack/slit/etc not on opposite side. This is very puzzling for me too! But I hate to break Trek warranty by spinning the clamp around 180 degrees. Perhaps someone can send Trek support an e-mail question? I would if I knew where to send it to..... I sent e-mail to Trek Australia yesterday and they said it does not matter either way and there is no preference on their part re clamp bolt and split as far as crushing seat post goes.... |
#6
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carbon seatposts in carbon frames - TLC?
Robin Hubert wrote: Qui si parla Campagnolo wrote: Are you saying to place the clamp slot 180 degrees from the seat tube slot? Could you please explain a) how this is superior and b) why it wouldn't crush carbon composite material of the seat tube at the clamp slot anyway (or perhaps be more inclined to)? Curiously, I saw a Willier (sp?) carbon frame the other day with four seat tube slots and a clamp with a collet. Perhaps something like a handlebar clamp pulling two halves together? Robin Hubert When the first gen Campag carbon posts were getting cracked at the back where the split was in the seat tube and the clamp, Campag suggested turning the clamp around 180 degrees to help keep the 'hole' for the SP more round rather than oval. helped for the thin-ish Campag post, would work for others. Not trying to argue with you Robin, and the tone of your post suggests that I must defend the practice somehow. I do it on all carbon posts, I discourage carbon posts in frames w/o a clamp. |
#7
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carbon seatposts in carbon frames - TLC?
Qui si parla Campagnolo wrote:
Robin Hubert wrote: Qui si parla Campagnolo wrote: Are you saying to place the clamp slot 180 degrees from the seat tube slot? Could you please explain a) how this is superior and b) why it wouldn't crush carbon composite material of the seat tube at the clamp slot anyway (or perhaps be more inclined to)? Curiously, I saw a Willier (sp?) carbon frame the other day with four seat tube slots and a clamp with a collet. Perhaps something like a handlebar clamp pulling two halves together? Robin Hubert When the first gen Campag carbon posts were getting cracked at the back where the split was in the seat tube and the clamp, Campag suggested turning the clamp around 180 degrees to help keep the 'hole' for the SP more round rather than oval. helped for the thin-ish Campag post, would work for others. Not trying to argue with you Robin, and the tone of your post suggests that I must defend the practice somehow. I do it on all carbon posts, I discourage carbon posts in frames w/o a clamp. No defense necessary. I just like explanations for things so I understand. Just because someone (even the "experts" at Campagnolo) said so carries little weight, in my mind. Personally, I don't understand how turning the clamp around 180 degrees will help. The inner diameter of the seat tube must be reduced somehow to clamp the seatpost, and I don't think compressing the seat tube is the better alternative. The diameter has to be made smaller, and that's what the split clamp does. Unfortunately, it also provides uneven, point loading at the edges of the slot. I still think most damaged carbon posts are due to a) poor tolerances of either seat tube or post, or a combination of both and b) knuckleheaded operators who think tighter is better without regard to the side-effects. Ever try to put a carbon post into an older Aegis with the internal pinch-design seat clamp? Aegis wasn't even aware it'd be a problem. All said, I think carbon posts are a bad idea on modern frame designs. Something different needs to be explored, such as the example I listed above (four slots and collet). Maybe two-bolt clamps at the slot (aka, a stem on carbon steerer? The folks at Waterford agree. They refuse to recommend a carbon post for their frames. Oh, and I apologize for cracking wise, but all too often the egos float around this place and legitimate answers to legitimate questions fall to the wayside (as was the case to which I responded so wise-assed). Robin Hubert |
#8
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carbon seatposts in carbon frames - TLC?
No defense necessary. I just like explanations for things so I
understand. Just because someone (even the "experts" at Campagnolo) said so carries little weight, in my mind. Personally, I don't understand how turning the clamp around 180 degrees will help. The inner diameter of the seat tube must be reduced somehow to clamp the seatpost, and I don't think compressing the seat tube is the better alternative. The diameter has to be made smaller, and that's what the split clamp does. Unfortunately, it also provides uneven, point loading at the edges of the slot. Robin: Peter's correct that it's generally a good idea to reverse the seat clamps. The problem comes when the slot in the seat clamp lines up with the slot in the frame. In both cases they try to deform (point load, as you mention), increase pressure on that one particular spot. You don't want to increase pressure on a spot that's already suffering from increased pressure, and keeping the slots from lining up prevents that. What Trek is doing now is creating a seat clamp that has a diagonal slot, so it can still be placed normally (without putting extra pressure right on the edge of the frame slots). --Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles www.ChainReactionBicycles.com "Robin Hubert" wrote in message ink.net... Qui si parla Campagnolo wrote: Robin Hubert wrote: Qui si parla Campagnolo wrote: Are you saying to place the clamp slot 180 degrees from the seat tube slot? Could you please explain a) how this is superior and b) why it wouldn't crush carbon composite material of the seat tube at the clamp slot anyway (or perhaps be more inclined to)? Curiously, I saw a Willier (sp?) carbon frame the other day with four seat tube slots and a clamp with a collet. Perhaps something like a handlebar clamp pulling two halves together? Robin Hubert When the first gen Campag carbon posts were getting cracked at the back where the split was in the seat tube and the clamp, Campag suggested turning the clamp around 180 degrees to help keep the 'hole' for the SP more round rather than oval. helped for the thin-ish Campag post, would work for others. Not trying to argue with you Robin, and the tone of your post suggests that I must defend the practice somehow. I do it on all carbon posts, I discourage carbon posts in frames w/o a clamp. No defense necessary. I just like explanations for things so I understand. Just because someone (even the "experts" at Campagnolo) said so carries little weight, in my mind. Personally, I don't understand how turning the clamp around 180 degrees will help. The inner diameter of the seat tube must be reduced somehow to clamp the seatpost, and I don't think compressing the seat tube is the better alternative. The diameter has to be made smaller, and that's what the split clamp does. Unfortunately, it also provides uneven, point loading at the edges of the slot. I still think most damaged carbon posts are due to a) poor tolerances of either seat tube or post, or a combination of both and b) knuckleheaded operators who think tighter is better without regard to the side-effects. Ever try to put a carbon post into an older Aegis with the internal pinch-design seat clamp? Aegis wasn't even aware it'd be a problem. All said, I think carbon posts are a bad idea on modern frame designs. Something different needs to be explored, such as the example I listed above (four slots and collet). Maybe two-bolt clamps at the slot (aka, a stem on carbon steerer? The folks at Waterford agree. They refuse to recommend a carbon post for their frames. Oh, and I apologize for cracking wise, but all too often the egos float around this place and legitimate answers to legitimate questions fall to the wayside (as was the case to which I responded so wise-assed). Robin Hubert |
#9
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carbon seatposts in carbon frames - TLC?
Robin Hubert wrote: Qui si parla Campagnolo wrote: Robin Hubert wrote: Qui si parla Campagnolo wrote: Are you saying to place the clamp slot 180 degrees from the seat tube slot? Could you please explain a) how this is superior and b) why it wouldn't crush carbon composite material of the seat tube at the clamp slot anyway (or perhaps be more inclined to)? Curiously, I saw a Willier (sp?) carbon frame the other day with four seat tube slots and a clamp with a collet. Perhaps something like a handlebar clamp pulling two halves together? Robin Hubert When the first gen Campag carbon posts were getting cracked at the back where the split was in the seat tube and the clamp, Campag suggested turning the clamp around 180 degrees to help keep the 'hole' for the SP more round rather than oval. helped for the thin-ish Campag post, would work for others. Not trying to argue with you Robin, and the tone of your post suggests that I must defend the practice somehow. I do it on all carbon posts, I discourage carbon posts in frames w/o a clamp. No defense necessary. I just like explanations for things so I understand. Just because someone (even the "experts" at Campagnolo) said so carries little weight, in my mind. Personally, I don't understand how turning the clamp around 180 degrees will help. Then don't do it... The inner diameter of the seat tube must be reduced somehow to clamp the seatpost, and I don't think compressing the seat tube is the better alternative. The diameter has to be made smaller, and that's what the split clamp does. Unfortunately, it also provides uneven, point loading at the edges of the slot. I still think most damaged carbon posts are due to a) poor tolerances of either seat tube or post, or a combination of both and b) knuckleheaded operators who think tighter is better without regard to the side-effects. Ever try to put a carbon post into an older Aegis with the internal pinch-design seat clamp? Aegis wasn't even aware it'd be a problem. All said, I think carbon posts are a bad idea on modern frame designs. Something different needs to be explored, such as the example I listed above (four slots and collet). Maybe two-bolt clamps at the slot (aka, a stem on carbon steerer? The folks at Waterford agree. They refuse to recommend a carbon post for their frames. Oh, and I apologize for cracking wise, but all too often the egos float around this place and legitimate answers to legitimate questions fall to the wayside (as was the case to which I responded so wise-assed). Robin Hubert |
#10
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carbon seatposts in carbon frames - TLC?
My LBS said I need to pull out my carbon post from my carbon frame and wipe both with clean dry cloth every 1-3 months or riding (particularly if I ride in wet weather) to avoid the two "fusing" together permanently (very expensive situation since crushing carbon seat post would be the only way out in such a situation). Put grease on the carbon post, and it'll glue it to the frame, and then you won't need a clamp. |
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