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#1
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Campagnolo Weak Return Springs?
I am assembling a "retro ride" using downtube shifters and standard brake
levers. However, the brakes (Campy Veloce dual pivot) do not want to release. I have to push the brake lever in the opposite direction (away from the bars) to get the brake calipers to clear the rims. This happens on both the front and the back. I am guessing that this is because the return spring on the calipers is weak, and that with ergo levers this is not an issue due to the "helper" spring in the levers. My two questions: Am I correct about the weak springs (and an ergo helper spring)? Will there be stronger springs in other newer Campy brake calipers, or do I have search for a set of retro Chorus Monoplaner brakes? Thanks for your input, Dave |
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#2
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Campagnolo Weak Return Springs?
You may want to have a shop take a look at your setup. I'm running a
set of older Cobalto single pivot brakes (basically Nuovo Record with a blue stone) with my Campy Record ergo levers and have NO problems. Since your Veloce dual pivots are newer than what I have, it sounds like your brakes are set up incorrectly. |
#3
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Campagnolo Weak Return Springs?
I don't know about your brake model but this can easily happen with
some brakes if you overtighten the center bolt. On the other hand some modern brake systems depend upon return springs within the brake lever itself which lightens up and simplifies the caliper spring design. If you are using an old-fashioned lever with a newfangled caliper based on this design, you may see exactly the problem you are describing. - Don Gillies San Diego, CA |
#4
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Campagnolo Weak Return Springs?
On 29 Aug 2005 15:20:54 -0700, "bfd" wrote:
You may want to have a shop take a look at your setup. I'm running a set of older Cobalto single pivot brakes (basically Nuovo Record with a blue stone) with my Campy Record ergo levers and have NO problems. Since your Veloce dual pivots are newer than what I have, it sounds like your brakes are set up incorrectly. Cable housing problems perhaps? Did the OP install new cables? Jasper |
#5
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Campagnolo Weak Return Springs?
I am assembling a "retro ride" using downtube shifters and standard
brake levers. However, the brakes (Campy Veloce dual pivot) do not want to release. I have to push the brake lever in the opposite direction (away from the bars) to get the brake calipers to clear the rims. This happens on both the front and the back. I am guessing that this is because the return spring on the calipers is weak, and that with ergo levers this is not an issue due to the "helper" spring in the levers. My two questions: Am I correct about the weak springs (and an ergo helper spring)? Will there be stronger springs in other newer Campy brake calipers, or do I have search for a set of retro Chorus Monoplaner brakes? Thanks for your input, Dave ====================================== Hi Dave, I have Campy Veloce Calipers on one of my Bikes, a Bianchi Campione. I have no idea if you are using a good, or new caliper, but I assume you are. Did you assemble these yourself? Did you find any binding of the Cable within the housing? Using correct length runs, which are not too short, yet not too long either? The Cables themselves must be able to slide within their housings like butter. The Veloce Ergos I'm using surprisingly have very little spring tension. By holding the caliper in with my fingers, there's very little spring tension on my Ergos. Just enough to barely return the Ergo Lever to off. Doubtful you'd see any improvement using Ergos versus Vintage Levers. WIth the Cables diconnected, the Calipers by themselves should have sufficient spring force by themselves, to release themselves from the rim. If not, and they appear to be hanging, and not releasing positively, you either have a mounting problem with your particular frame, or a Caliper issue such as worn out caliper springs, or seized calipers due to corrosion. Remove the calipers from the frame, Lubricate all pivot points on the calipers, compress them by hand repeatedly, and see if this makes an improvement? These calipers do need to be tightly fastened to the frame, and fork. They are not supposed to rock at all like you would see on some of the old single pivot Calipers.. After doing a preliminary centering of the Calipers on the frame/Fork when installing them, and cableing them up, they are then adjusted for clearance with the thumbwheel adjustment, precisely centering of the shoes to rim, with a small Allen Wrench on one of the Caliper Arms, so that there is an equal amount of clearance from each shoe to rim. and the Shoe Orbital adjustment needs to be set for proper contact of the Shoe to the rim. (Not necessarily done in the order I mention) Mark |
#6
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Campagnolo Weak Return Springs?
David Peake wrote: I am assembling a "retro ride" using downtube shifters and standard brake levers. However, the brakes (Campy Veloce dual pivot) do not want to release. I have to push the brake lever in the opposite direction (away from the bars) to get the brake calipers to clear the rims. This happens on both the front and the back. I am guessing that this is because the return spring on the calipers is weak, and that with ergo levers this is not an issue due to the "helper" spring in the levers. I haven't seen this with levers w/o springs. I think perhaps the housing is not seated in the levers. Unwrap it all, tighten the cable and pull hard on the levers to seat the housing. Ensure the housing is smooth and free of burrs at the ends. If still, pull the spting loose from the caliper and bend it up. Also ensure the husing has ferrules on the lever end and they are not pullling thru the holes in the levers. I don't think it's a caliper spring issue. My two questions: Am I correct about the weak springs (and an ergo helper spring)? Will there be stronger springs in other newer Campy brake calipers, or do I have search for a set of retro Chorus Monoplaner brakes? Thanks for your input, Dave |
#7
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Campagnolo Weak Return Springs?
David Peake wrote:
I am assembling a "retro ride" using downtube shifters and standard brake levers. "Standard" brake levers for the last 15 years have built-in return springs and run the cables under the handlebar tape. I'm guessing that you're referring to old-fashioned levers where the cables arch out of the tops of the levers. Modern so-called "aero" brake levers are functionally vastly superior to the old-fashioned type, and provide much better braking with any type of caliper. This is partly because of their reduced cable friction, and mostly because the internal geometry (pivot location) provides MUCH more effective braking when you apply the brake from the tops of the hoods. (No major difference when you brake from the drops however.) I highly recommend that you invest in a pair of modern levers if you actually plan to ride the bike much, as opposed to setting it up as a museum-type display piece. The excellent Shimano and Tektro/Cane Creek units are quite inexpensive, and would greatly improve your braking. However, the brakes (Campy Veloce dual pivot) do not want to release. I have to push the brake lever in the opposite direction (away from the bars) to get the brake calipers to clear the rims. This happens on both the front and the back. I am guessing that this is because the return spring on the calipers is weak, and that with ergo levers this is not an issue due to the "helper" spring in the levers. My two questions: Am I correct about the weak springs (and an ergo helper spring)? Yes. Very careful cable prep may let you get this system to work however. See: http://sheldonbrown.com/cables Will there be stronger springs in other newer Campy brake calipers, No. Shimano calipers have an adjustment for this, but I'm pretty sure Campagnolo doesn't. or do I have search for a set of retro Chorus Monoplaner brakes? Stay away from those stupid things if you actually want to stop, unless you have very strong hands. That was one of the most idiotic designs ever to come out of Vicenza. Sheldon "New Brakes Are Really Better" Brown +---------------------------------------------+ | If your bike has drop handlebars, but you | | rarely or never ride on the drops, it’s a | | sure sign that your bike is not properly | | fitted or is not properly adjusted! | | See: http://sheldonbrown.com/handsup | +---------------------------------------------+ Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041 http://harriscyclery.com Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide http://captainbike.com http://sheldonbrown.com |
#8
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Campagnolo Weak Return Springs?
First, let me say thank you to all of you who responded. This group is
really a tremendous resource. (Its too bad that we all couldn't meet, I would buy you all a beer!) However, the "sticking" problem remains. I have fiddled with the cable tension, the housing length, and the caliper fixing bolts, all to no effect. What I have noticed is that, when I compress the calipers by hand (in other words, with the cables detached), they release normally. However, when they are acuated by the levers, they will release to a certain point and then the lever impedes the brake from releasing fully. My guess is that I am going to need new levers. My intermediate step is to start the installation of the cables from scratch, that is to say, new cables and housing. However, is there a way to service the levers so that they will release fully? Grease, Triflow, etc? The levers that I am referring to are Campagnolo Record brake levers from the early to mid '90s, nothing terrribly exotic. Thank you again, Dave |
#9
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Campagnolo Weak Return Springs?
In article j04Re.27024$Bc2.24550@trnddc06,
"David Peake" wrote: First, let me say thank you to all of you who responded. This group is really a tremendous resource. (Its too bad that we all couldn't meet, I would buy you all a beer!) However, the "sticking" problem remains. I have fiddled with the cable tension, the housing length, and the caliper fixing bolts, all to no effect. What I have noticed is that, when I compress the calipers by hand (in other words, with the cables detached), they release normally. However, when they are acuated by the levers, they will release to a certain point and then the lever impedes the brake from releasing fully. Now you know that the calipers are not the source of the drag. Does the cable glide through the cable housing? This is a good place for copious lubrication. Does the cable move freely through the cable housing end cuts? Does the cable move freely through the ferrules and ferrule stops? Are there bends in the cable that drag in the cable housing or in the ferrules? My guess is that I am going to need new levers. My intermediate step is to Have you isolated the problem at the levers? How do the levers impede the brake return? You might as well ask now "What do I do if new levers do not solve the problem?" Now I am curious. start the installation of the cables from scratch, that is to say, new cables and housing. However, is there a way to service the levers so that they will release fully? Grease, Triflow, etc? The levers that I am referring to are Campagnolo Record brake levers from the early to mid '90s, nothing terrribly exotic. -- Michael Press |
#10
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Campagnolo Weak Return Springs?
Sheldon Brown wrote: David Peake wrote: I am assembling a "retro ride" using downtube shifters and standard brake levers. "Standard" brake levers for the last 15 years have built-in return springs and run the cables under the handlebar tape. I'm guessing that you're referring to old-fashioned levers where the cables arch out of the tops of the levers. Modern so-called "aero" brake levers are functionally vastly superior to the old-fashioned type, and provide much better braking with any type of caliper. This is partly because of their reduced cable friction, and mostly because the internal geometry (pivot location) provides MUCH more effective braking when you apply the brake from the tops of the hoods. (No major difference when you brake from the drops however.) I highly recommend that you invest in a pair of modern levers if you actually plan to ride the bike much, as opposed to setting it up as a museum-type display piece. The excellent Shimano and Tektro/Cane Creek units are quite inexpensive, and would greatly improve your braking. However, the brakes (Campy Veloce dual pivot) do not want to release. I have to push the brake lever in the opposite direction (away from the bars) to get the brake calipers to clear the rims. This happens on both the front and the back. I am guessing that this is because the return spring on the calipers is weak, and that with ergo levers this is not an issue due to the "helper" spring in the levers. My two questions: Am I correct about the weak springs (and an ergo helper spring)? Yes. Very careful cable prep may let you get this system to work however. See: http://sheldonbrown.com/cables Will there be stronger springs in other newer Campy brake calipers, No. Shimano calipers have an adjustment for this, but I'm pretty sure Campagnolo doesn't. Some Campag calipers have spring increase screws, most do not. Most modern shimano calpers do not. New 7800 do, but 7700, 6500, 1056, did not. or do I have search for a set of retro Chorus Monoplaner brakes? Stay away from those stupid things if you actually want to stop, unless you have very strong hands. That was one of the most idiotic designs ever to come out of Vicenza. Sheldon "New Brakes Are Really Better" Brown +---------------------------------------------+ | If your bike has drop handlebars, but you | | rarely or never ride on the drops, it's a | | sure sign that your bike is not properly | | fitted or is not properly adjusted! | | See: http://sheldonbrown.com/handsup | +---------------------------------------------+ Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041 http://harriscyclery.com Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide http://captainbike.com http://sheldonbrown.com |
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