Compact Frame sizing

I'm looking at getting a road/commuter bike. I want disc brakes (for
the rain) and drop handlebars. I don't want to spend more than
$1,000.00. My target right now is the Schwinn Super Sport DBX. There
are some 2006's still available. My problem is I can't tell if I need
a small or a medium frame. I'm about 5'7". I have an 18" Yukon Giant
MTB and I think it's just a touch big. Any idea what frame size would
be best? I don't really have an opportunity to ride one.

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On Sep 22, 6:45 pm, Sparky wrote:
I'm looking at getting a road/commuter bike. I want disc brakes (for
the rain) and drop handlebars. I don't want to spend more than
$1,000.00.

Disc brakes on a road bike are all hype. Put some Kool-Stops on
whatever calipers you get and you'll stop just fine. Discs limit your
ability to mount fenders and racks which are far more important on a
commuter.

I'd recommended a touring bike like the Jamis Aurora or wannabe
cyclocross bike like the Bianchi Volpe.

Seriously, those disc brakes are more trouble than they're worth on a
road going bike. Linear pull brakes or cantilevers are more than
powerful enough, cheap, and decrease the theft value of your bike. The
reason you see them on so many so-called "commuters" is fashion,
nothing else. They certainly are useful for when you're bombing down a
northwest soggy trail at at 30mph, but I doubt that's what this bike
will see. ;-)

If you're planning on traveling light and your terrain is flat, I
can't recommend a Redline 925 fixed/ single speed bike enough. Nuclear
blast proof, and only $500. Yes I'm biased, as I own one, but it's
insane. I ride it road and trail, through glass, over curbs, and it
begs for more.

On Sep 22, 6:45 pm, Sparky wrote:
. Any idea what frame size would
be best? I don't really have an opportunity to ride one.



It's all about reach. Measure your virtual top tube length on your
current bike and adjust for whether you find it cramped, stretched, or
just right.

In article
. comlandotter
wrote:
On Sep 22, 6:45 pm, Sparky wrote:
I'm looking at getting a road/commuter bike. I want disc brakes
(for the rain) and drop handlebars. I don't want to spend more than
$1,000.00.

Disc brakes on a road bike are all hype. Put some Kool-Stops on
whatever calipers you get and you'll stop just fine. Discs limit
yourability to mount fenders and racks which are far more important
on a
commuter.

I used to commute all year round, and I have slid into the back of a
car due to water on the rims keeping the brakes from grabbing. the
reviews I have read have been very positive toward the disc brakes on
the road bikes. I appreciate your opinion, but I'm not convinced that
discs are a waste of time.

--
I'm trying a new usenet client for Mac, Nemo OS X.
You can download it at http://www.malcom-mac.com/nemo

In article
. comlandotter
wrote:
On Sep 22, 6:45 pm, Sparky wrote:
. Any idea what frame size would
be best? I don't really have an opportunity to ride one.

It's all about reach. Measure your virtual top tube length on your
current bike and adjust for whether you find it cramped, stretched,
orjust right.

Thanks. that sounds like a useful approach. My current bike has
straight bars, and I am looking to go to drops. Is there any
adjustment needed to the virtual top tube length? Drops seem to extend
the reach. Thanks.

--
I'm trying a new usenet client for Mac, Nemo OS X.
You can download it at http://www.malcom-mac.com/nemo

On Sep 22, 7:34 pm, Sparky wrote:
In article
. comlandotter

wrote:
On Sep 22, 6:45 pm, Sparky wrote:
I'm looking at getting a road/commuter bike. I want disc brakes
(for the rain) and drop handlebars. I don't want to spend more than
$1,000.00.
Disc brakes on a road bike are all hype. Put some Kool-Stops on
whatever calipers you get and you'll stop just fine. Discs limit
yourability to mount fenders and racks which are far more important
on a
commuter.

I used to commute all year round, and I have slid into the back of a
car due to water on the rims keeping the brakes from grabbing. the
reviews I have read have been very positive toward the disc brakes on
the road bikes. I appreciate your opinion, but I'm not convinced that
discs are a waste of time.

--
I'm trying a new usenet client for Mac, Nemo OS X.
You can download it athttp://www.malcom-mac.com/nemo

Well, you're a Mac user, so I guess you need a bit of a handicap--but
I've been commuting near twenty years rain and dry with caliper
brakes, and they work fine.

On Sep 22, 7:40 pm, Sparky wrote:
In article
. comlandotter

wrote:
On Sep 22, 6:45 pm, Sparky wrote:
. Any idea what frame size would
be best? I don't really have an opportunity to ride one.
It's all about reach. Measure your virtual top tube length on your
current bike and adjust for whether you find it cramped, stretched,
orjust right.

Thanks. that sounds like a useful approach. My current bike has
straight bars, and I am looking to go to drops. Is there any
adjustment needed to the virtual top tube length? Drops seem to extend
the reach. Thanks.


I ride the same top tube length on my flat bar city bike and my drop
bar bike, which probably doesn't mean much.

Sparky wrote:
I'm looking at getting a road/commuter bike. I want disc brakes (for
the rain) and drop handlebars. I don't want to spend more than
$1,000.00. My target right now is the Schwinn Super Sport DBX. There
are some 2006's still available. My problem is I can't tell if I need
a small or a medium frame. I'm about 5'7". I have an 18" Yukon Giant
MTB and I think it's just a touch big. Any idea what frame size would
be best? I don't really have an opportunity to ride one.

Is there some reason you're looking at a compact frame? For most riders,
a compact frame is a very bad idea.

As one major bicycle manufacturer wrote: "there's a disturbing trend
among some bike companies to re-tool their road frames by shortening the
seat tube and slanting the top tube down from the head tube. This new
design "breakthrough," they argue, saves frame weight. And if you take
their claim literally, they're right - a shorter seat tube does make a
bare frame a little lighter. What they don't tell you is that their
complete bicycle actually weighs more than a bike with a conventional
geometry. Why? You have to use longer (and therefore heavier) seatposts
and stems on smaller frames to fit the rider properly, and their added
weight more than off-sets the few grams saved by their sloping top tube
frames."

Disc brakes are rare on road bikes, as they really are unnecessary, even
in rain, but if you've got your heart set on disc brakes on a road bike
look at the Novara Element, "http://www.rei.com/product/744808#"

With the REI dividend it'd be under $1000. Get an REI Visa card first,
and save another 5%. Or wait for a sale, as often REI has 15-20% off on
Novara bicycles (no dividend but the 5% for the Visa card still applies
on sale items).

If the size isn't right, REI gives you no trouble on exchanges,
something that is not the case at most other bicycle retailers.

On Sep 23, 10:45 am, SMS wrote:
Sparky wrote:
I'm looking at getting a road/commuter bike. I want disc brakes (for
the rain) and drop handlebars. I don't want to spend more than
$1,000.00. My target right now is the Schwinn Super Sport DBX. There
are some 2006's still available. My problem is I can't tell if I need
a small or a medium frame. I'm about 5'7". I have an 18" Yukon Giant
MTB and I think it's just a touch big. Any idea what frame size would
be best? I don't really have an opportunity to ride one.

Is there some reason you're looking at a compact frame? For most riders,
a compact frame is a very bad idea.

[drivelsnip]

That's bull****. Just ride a properly sized compact and you can avoid
using a bunch of spacers or stupid stem dohicky to get the bars at a
comfortable height.

You might think a flat top looks better--but please, stop with the
bull**** to back up your "faith". The problem is that people buy
frames too small, whether it be sloping top tube or not.

landotter wrote:

That's bull****. Just ride a properly sized compact and you can avoid
using a bunch of spacers or stupid stem dohicky to get the bars at a
comfortable height.

You might think a flat top looks better--but please, stop with the
bull**** to back up your "faith". The problem is that people buy
frames too small, whether it be sloping top tube or not.


There _is_ a tendency for shops toe sell frames that are too small.

It has nothing to do with looks.

You need to understand the inherent disadvantages in the compact frame
geometry for the vast majority of riders that are of "normal" proportions.

Compact frames are to save the manufacturer money. They've tried to
convince people that they're better (or at least no worse) than standard
geometry frames because there's a big monetary incentive. Don't fall for
it! There are still a sufficient number of non-compact frames available,
so you don't have to do whatever the bicycle manufacturers want you to do.

For $1000, you don't have to compromise with a compact frame.