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#2
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Durability vs Efficiency
I found an old Giant "Option" ATB and built it up as a tourer. I've commuted
to work several times, did two metric centuries on it, and numerous +20-mile "run-around-town" rides. It's sporting 700x35mm touring tires (traded out the 27" x 1 1/8") that give a fair decent ride without too much rolling resistance. They also hold up well on gravel hike & bike trails, dirt paths, and uneven sidewalks. A skinny tire at 90 or 100 psi would blow on some of the stuff I ride on, but at about 50 psi, 35's roll right over 'em. Except 2" high rises in the concrete... Flats are one of the constants of the universe...as far as mechanical trouble, just keep your bike maintained, and you shouldn't have any problems. |
#3
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Durability vs Efficiency
I 2nd George's suggestion to look for a bicycle that has enough clearance
that you can mount at least a 28mm tire, if not larger (I don't know HOW rough your ride is nor your willingness to trade off speed). Also, I recommend looking for a bicycle that has a large number of spokes built in a cross-over (non-radial) pattern. This will reduce the need for frequent re-truing. Use of kevlar-belted tires or flat prevention strips is controversial. I like them. Good luck. "salmoneous" wrote in message om... ... By durability... I mean the likelihood that flat tires or other mechanical problems will interrupt my commute. |
#4
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Durability vs Efficiency
On 22 Jul 2003 08:11:58 -0700, (salmoneous) wrote:
If we look at the continuum of bikes - from mountain to true road bike, we trade comfort for efficiency as the bikes become more road-like. I'm certainly willing to give up some comfort to shorten my commute time. What I'm not willing to give us is durability. What you describe is an Audax bike. 700c wheels, reasonably slim tyres (put bigger ones on in winter if you like), clearance for mudguards, frame angles which are sporty but not punishingly upright, enough stiffness to mount a rack for carrying stuff, and braze-ons for lights and dynamo. Audax bikes are built to last. Good ones are also light and surprisingly nimble. Or you could go the whole hog and buy a recumbent ;-) Here's an audax bike from a firm that knows what they are doing: http://www.sjscycles.com/thorn/700so...daxclassic.htm Guy === ** WARNING ** This posting may contain traces of irony. http://www.chapmancentral.com [currently offline awaiting ADSL transfer to new ISP] |
#5
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Durability vs Efficiency
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#6
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Durability vs Efficiency
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#7
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Durability vs Efficiency
A tourer might work for you--
I picked up a Jamis Aurora on sale for US$450; 700Cx32 tires, fender clearance, rack mounting points, all around comfortable position (dropped bars; I ride on the hoods 95% of the time) okay gearing. I'm only now learning the intricacies of hopping and wheelie-ing a bike with dropped bars, so I'll get back to the ng after a while when I learn how to crawl over stuff. As to speed and comfort--the aurora is the fastest I've ridden a bike. It's also my most comfortable bike. the comfortable bike will be faster than an uncomfortable bike, just because you can stay in the saddle longer and put more power in. Other option is to convert your MTB. Advantage: this can be a phased project, so you get used to one modification at a time. Disadvantage: parts singly are more expensive than a whole new bike. Phase I [Minor alterations]: High-pressure, slick tires. Rack. Fenders. Bar-ends. Toeclips/straps Phase II [Major alterations]: Conversion to dropped handlebars--entails new handlebars, levers, shifters, cables, housing, stem (?). Rigid fork (if applicable) Clipless pedals. If your frame sits you very upright as you pedal, then the dropped-bar conversion option might not be too great. If, on the other hand, your frame stretches you out more--your back is flatter, more weight on your hands--then the dropped-bar conversion might be a great idea. -Luigi |
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