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#21
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MTB disc brake caused wild fire
On Thursday, March 29, 2018 at 6:24:34 PM UTC+2, sms wrote:
On 3/27/2018 7:39 AM, Joerg wrote: Hydraulics also can suffer from sudden fade and that's scary. Then they require bleeding which, depending on the kind, is a messy business. On mine particularly so because there is no bleed kit for them. Cable disc brakes are fine for pavement riding, just not for heavy duty MTB riding. Avoid hydraulic disc brakes at all costs. Stick to mechanical disc brakes. Well argued! I assume it is based on own experience. Lou |
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#22
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MTB disc brake caused wild fire
On Thursday, March 29, 2018 at 4:09:07 PM UTC+2, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-03-28 20:28, James wrote: On 28/03/18 01:39, Joerg wrote: Hydraulics also can suffer from sudden fade and that's scary. Then they require bleeding which, depending on the kind, is a messy business. On mine particularly so because there is no bleed kit for them. Cable disc brakes are fine for pavement riding, just not for heavy duty MTB riding. With the use of a few hose clamps, a file that is harder than tool steel, nails and rocks, I'm sure you could build a front wheel for your MTB using a motorcycle front hub, disc brake and lever. After upgrading to 8" rotors front and back I am quite pleased with the brake performance of my MTB. The bleeding is messy but only needs to be done about once a year and takes 1/2h. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ Once a year? Why? Lou |
#24
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MTB disc brake caused wild fire
On Thursday, March 29, 2018 at 9:47:20 PM UTC+2, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-03-29 12:25, wrote: On Thursday, March 29, 2018 at 4:09:07 PM UTC+2, Joerg wrote: On 2018-03-28 20:28, James wrote: On 28/03/18 01:39, Joerg wrote: Hydraulics also can suffer from sudden fade and that's scary. Then they require bleeding which, depending on the kind, is a messy business. On mine particularly so because there is no bleed kit for them. Cable disc brakes are fine for pavement riding, just not for heavy duty MTB riding. With the use of a few hose clamps, a file that is harder than tool steel, nails and rocks, I'm sure you could build a front wheel for your MTB using a motorcycle front hub, disc brake and lever. After upgrading to 8" rotors front and back I am quite pleased with the brake performance of my MTB. The bleeding is messy but only needs to be done about once a year and takes 1/2h. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ Once a year? Why? Because after about a year the lever for the rear brake starts feeling soft. Braking is still fine and most other riders just leave it like that but I like the pressure point nice and hard. Also, the slightest amount of air in the line near the caliper can cause a brake failure on a long downhill which here in the hills is not cool. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ Never bleed my brakes on my cross bike for 4 years now and they feel like they did on day 1. Shimano must be doing something right. Lou |
#25
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MTB disc brake caused wild fire
On 3/29/2018 4:19 PM, wrote:
On Thursday, March 29, 2018 at 9:47:20 PM UTC+2, Joerg wrote: On 2018-03-29 12:25, wrote: On Thursday, March 29, 2018 at 4:09:07 PM UTC+2, Joerg wrote: On 2018-03-28 20:28, James wrote: On 28/03/18 01:39, Joerg wrote: Hydraulics also can suffer from sudden fade and that's scary. Then they require bleeding which, depending on the kind, is a messy business. On mine particularly so because there is no bleed kit for them. Cable disc brakes are fine for pavement riding, just not for heavy duty MTB riding. With the use of a few hose clamps, a file that is harder than tool steel, nails and rocks, I'm sure you could build a front wheel for your MTB using a motorcycle front hub, disc brake and lever. After upgrading to 8" rotors front and back I am quite pleased with the brake performance of my MTB. The bleeding is messy but only needs to be done about once a year and takes 1/2h. Once a year? Why? Because after about a year the lever for the rear brake starts feeling soft. Braking is still fine and most other riders just leave it like that but I like the pressure point nice and hard. Also, the slightest amount of air in the line near the caliper can cause a brake failure on a long downhill which here in the hills is not cool. Never bleed my brakes on my cross bike for 4 years now and they feel like they did on day 1. Shimano must be doing something right. Says the guy riding in Nederlands where there are no mountain lions. Of course they work for you. -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 |
#26
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MTB disc brake caused wild fire
sms wrote:
On 3/27/2018 7:39 AM, Joerg wrote: Hydraulics also can suffer from sudden fade and that's scary. Then they require bleeding which, depending on the kind, is a messy business. On mine particularly so because there is no bleed kit for them. Cable disc brakes are fine for pavement riding, just not for heavy duty MTB riding. Avoid hydraulic disc brakes at all costs. Stick to mechanical disc brakes. Which require constant adjustments as the pads wear, have cables that weather eats, etc. All my bikes have disks the CX/gravel/adventure road? Is cable the others are hydraulic. The cable is a lot more fuss, the Hydros just work, once set up you feed them pads which is very easy. Personally as someone who rides off-road plus high (ish) miles commuting disks and preferably Hydro are game changers in terms of performance and maintenance. In terms of stuff like power, there is quite a overlap between the two, my gravel bikes cable disks is about as powerful as the old commute MTB with its older and cheaper Hydro brakes, both are embarrassing weak compared to my Full suspension MTB. Roger Merriman |
#27
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MTB disc brake caused wild fire
On 2018-03-29 14:32, AMuzi wrote:
On 3/29/2018 4:19 PM, wrote: On Thursday, March 29, 2018 at 9:47:20 PM UTC+2, Joerg wrote: On 2018-03-29 12:25, wrote: On Thursday, March 29, 2018 at 4:09:07 PM UTC+2, Joerg wrote: On 2018-03-28 20:28, James wrote: On 28/03/18 01:39, Joerg wrote: Hydraulics also can suffer from sudden fade and that's scary. Then they require bleeding which, depending on the kind, is a messy business. On mine particularly so because there is no bleed kit for them. Cable disc brakes are fine for pavement riding, just not for heavy duty MTB riding. With the use of a few hose clamps, a file that is harder than tool steel, nails and rocks, I'm sure you could build a front wheel for your MTB using a motorcycle front hub, disc brake and lever. After upgrading to 8" rotors front and back I am quite pleased with the brake performance of my MTB. The bleeding is messy but only needs to be done about once a year and takes 1/2h. Once a year? Why? Because after about a year the lever for the rear brake starts feeling soft. Braking is still fine and most other riders just leave it like that but I like the pressure point nice and hard. Also, the slightest amount of air in the line near the caliper can cause a brake failure on a long downhill which here in the hills is not cool. Never bleed my brakes on my cross bike for 4 years now and they feel like they did on day 1. Shimano must be doing something right. Says the guy riding in Nederlands where there are no mountain lions. Of course they work for you. There are also no hills and dirt and stuff, or having to ride through rivers. My MTB brake calipers regularly reach a state where you can't even seem them anymore. The guys using Shimano out here need to bleed them as well, except they can't use the DOT4 fluid from the garage cabinet. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ |
#28
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MTB disc brake caused wild fire
On 2018-03-29 14:34, Roger Merriman wrote:
sms wrote: On 3/27/2018 7:39 AM, Joerg wrote: Hydraulics also can suffer from sudden fade and that's scary. Then they require bleeding which, depending on the kind, is a messy business. On mine particularly so because there is no bleed kit for them. Cable disc brakes are fine for pavement riding, just not for heavy duty MTB riding. Avoid hydraulic disc brakes at all costs. Stick to mechanical disc brakes. Which require constant adjustments as the pads wear, have cables that weather eats, etc. All my bikes have disks the CX/gravel/adventure road? Is cable the others are hydraulic. The cable is a lot more fuss, the Hydros just work, once set up you feed them pads which is very easy. Personally as someone who rides off-road plus high (ish) miles commuting disks and preferably Hydro are game changers in terms of performance and maintenance. In terms of stuff like power, there is quite a overlap between the two, my gravel bikes cable disks is about as powerful as the old commute MTB with its older and cheaper Hydro brakes, both are embarrassing weak compared to my Full suspension MTB. I recently upgrade to 8" rotors front and back. That was the real game changer. I can lock up either wheel with one finger and brake response is prontissimo. Now I no longer have to worry when riding a steep trail with some cargo in the back. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ |
#29
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MTB disc brake caused wild fire
On 3/29/2018 5:32 PM, AMuzi wrote:
On 3/29/2018 4:19 PM, wrote: On Thursday, March 29, 2018 at 9:47:20 PM UTC+2, Joerg wrote: On 2018-03-29 12:25, wrote: On Thursday, March 29, 2018 at 4:09:07 PM UTC+2, Joerg wrote: On 2018-03-28 20:28, James wrote: On 28/03/18 01:39, Joerg wrote: Hydraulics also can suffer from sudden fade and that's scary. Then they require bleeding which, depending on the kind, is a messy business. On mine particularly so because there is no bleed kit for them. Cable disc brakes are fine for pavement riding, just not for heavy duty MTB riding. With the use of a few hose clamps, a file that is harder than tool steel, nails and rocks, I'm sure you could build a front wheel for your MTB using a motorcycle front hub, disc brake and lever. After upgrading to 8" rotors front and back I am quite pleased with the brake performance of my MTB. The bleeding is messy but only needs to be done about once a year and takes 1/2h. Once a year? Why? Because after about a year the lever for the rear brake starts feeling soft. Braking is still fine and most other riders just leave it like that but I like the pressure point nice and hard. Also, the slightest amount of air in the line near the caliper can cause a brake failure on a long downhill which here in the hills is not cool. Never bleed my brakes on my cross bike for 4 years now and they feel like they did on day 1. Shimano must be doing something right. Says the guy riding in Nederlands where there are no mountain lions. Of course they work for you. Keep in mind, nothing works for Joerg. -- - Frank Krygowski |
#30
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MTB disc brake caused wild fire
On 3/29/2018 5:34 PM, Roger Merriman wrote:
sms wrote: On 3/27/2018 7:39 AM, Joerg wrote: Hydraulics also can suffer from sudden fade and that's scary. Then they require bleeding which, depending on the kind, is a messy business. On mine particularly so because there is no bleed kit for them. Cable disc brakes are fine for pavement riding, just not for heavy duty MTB riding. Avoid hydraulic disc brakes at all costs. Stick to mechanical disc brakes. Which require constant adjustments as the pads wear, have cables that weather eats, etc. All my bikes have disks the CX/gravel/adventure road? Is cable the others are hydraulic. The cable is a lot more fuss, the Hydros just work, once set up you feed them pads which is very easy. Personally as someone who rides off-road plus high (ish) miles commuting disks and preferably Hydro are game changers in terms of performance and maintenance. In terms of stuff like power, there is quite a overlap between the two, my gravel bikes cable disks is about as powerful as the old commute MTB with its older and cheaper Hydro brakes, both are embarrassing weak compared to my Full suspension MTB. "Embarrassingly weak" sounds strange to me. Aren't you really talking about overall mechanical advantage - that is, lever force vs. braking force? Practical braking force, especially off-road, is limited by traction and/or by risk of pitchover. I fail to see why getting that amount of force from a one pound lever force is better than getting it from a two pound lever force. I can squeeze a two pound force all day. -- - Frank Krygowski |
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