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#81
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Chain wear and cassette question
On Tue, 20 Nov 2018 16:17:55 -0800 (PST), jbeattie
wrote: On Tuesday, November 20, 2018 at 10:03:26 AM UTC-8, AMuzi wrote: On 11/20/2018 10:36 AM, jbeattie wrote: On Tuesday, November 20, 2018 at 7:24:13 AM UTC-8, Joerg wrote: On 2018-11-18 10:17, wrote: On Saturday, November 10, 2018 at 2:53:28 PM UTC-8, John B. slocomb wrote: On Sat, 10 Nov 2018 12:51:48 -0800, Joerg wrote: To my amazement a Sachs-Sedis chain will absolutely not exceed 0.5% stretch after more than 5000mi, despite some hills where one has to stand in the pedals. Never had a chain last this long. However, the rollers have developed a lot of play, about 0.040" or 1mm. How much is too much? I guess it's almost finished because of those rollers. Getting older, I'd like to increase the large cog to at least 40T from my current 32T. Of course, that will require me to retire the trusty old Shimano 600 derailer. I don't want the cassette to become ever wider and also need to maintain 7-speed spacing so I can use the more robust old-style 7.3mm pin length chains such as KMC Z50 (can't find the Sachs anymore). In the past I hacked cassettes, installed the cogs I wanted and re-used the old spacers. Can the larger cassettes like in the link below still be hacked apart? I don't mind drilling or dremeling stuff to get them apart. If memory serves me correctly I've installed a Shimano STX-RC freehub on the road bike after the last UG freehub had croaked. https://www.ebay.com/itm/SunRace-CSM...k/132325285327 My rather limited experience has been that the cassettes with the larger cogs usually have the largest 3 or 4 cogs riveted to a hub that connects them to the free hub so yes you can hack them if you accept the size and spacing of the largest three, or so, cogs. Some time ago I think you talked about using friction shifters and if you do that then the spacing of the cassette is no longer relevant as the friction shifters will shift any cassette. cheers, John B. I was repairing a friend's bike yesterday and he uses a 10 speed 12-34 and the lower 8 speeds of the Deore cassette were all rivetted together. I didn't like the cassette or the long arm derailleur that goes with it. Yesterday I received the big Sunrace cassette, including new derailer and derailer extender. The cassette has only one screw and it almost fell into pieces when I dragged it out of its box. Not a problem, just strange. It's huge, almost the diameter of a dessert plate. This week's ride got smoked out (literally) and then it's suposed to begin to rain on Wednesday. So maybe some time to do the cassette hack unless something on the honey-do lits wins. Like the pool sweep that just quit. Told you it just looked like single screw and some locating pins -- if any pins. My tale of woe (stupidity): the Vuelta Corsa SLX disc rear that I got from Nashbar dirt-cheap suffered a broken spoke -- rear drive side. The wheel is amazingly robust for an el-cheapo prefab wheel, and the break is totally my fault. I threw on an old rear derailleur last year because the previous old rear derailleur finally wore out. The bike has been the sump for all my old, used parts. Anyway, I was in a hurry, threw it on, took off and overshifted into the spokes. Deja vu 1978. I scarred up the outbound spokes badly and one finally broke. Now I have to find a suitable replacement(s), which will be difficult from my vast used spoke collection because they are all too long. I'll probably have to buy a few from Universal. http://www.yellowjersey.org/fiberfix.html I had two of those in my winter fixie wheel* for 5~6 years until the volume of dents reached a point where a new wheel made sense. *other damage prevented sprocket removal I'm going to see if I can get a hose clamp to work. Or maybe I'll just use a spoke. As it turns out, it's a 292mm (according to the Vuelta guys, who returned my e-mail promptly), and I think I have some of those hanging around -- or close enough. -- Jay Beattie. I know that America is bigger and better but do they sell hose clamps large enough to fit a wheel? cheers, John B. |
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#82
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Chain wear and cassette question
On 2018-11-20 08:36, jbeattie wrote:
On Tuesday, November 20, 2018 at 7:24:13 AM UTC-8, Joerg wrote: On 2018-11-18 10:17, wrote: On Saturday, November 10, 2018 at 2:53:28 PM UTC-8, John B. slocomb wrote: On Sat, 10 Nov 2018 12:51:48 -0800, Joerg wrote: To my amazement a Sachs-Sedis chain will absolutely not exceed 0.5% stretch after more than 5000mi, despite some hills where one has to stand in the pedals. Never had a chain last this long. However, the rollers have developed a lot of play, about 0.040" or 1mm. How much is too much? I guess it's almost finished because of those rollers. Getting older, I'd like to increase the large cog to at least 40T from my current 32T. Of course, that will require me to retire the trusty old Shimano 600 derailer. I don't want the cassette to become ever wider and also need to maintain 7-speed spacing so I can use the more robust old-style 7.3mm pin length chains such as KMC Z50 (can't find the Sachs anymore). In the past I hacked cassettes, installed the cogs I wanted and re-used the old spacers. Can the larger cassettes like in the link below still be hacked apart? I don't mind drilling or dremeling stuff to get them apart. If memory serves me correctly I've installed a Shimano STX-RC freehub on the road bike after the last UG freehub had croaked. https://www.ebay.com/itm/SunRace-CSM...k/132325285327 My rather limited experience has been that the cassettes with the larger cogs usually have the largest 3 or 4 cogs riveted to a hub that connects them to the free hub so yes you can hack them if you accept the size and spacing of the largest three, or so, cogs. Some time ago I think you talked about using friction shifters and if you do that then the spacing of the cassette is no longer relevant as the friction shifters will shift any cassette. cheers, John B. I was repairing a friend's bike yesterday and he uses a 10 speed 12-34 and the lower 8 speeds of the Deore cassette were all rivetted together. I didn't like the cassette or the long arm derailleur that goes with it. Yesterday I received the big Sunrace cassette, including new derailer and derailer extender. The cassette has only one screw and it almost fell into pieces when I dragged it out of its box. Not a problem, just strange. It's huge, almost the diameter of a dessert plate. This week's ride got smoked out (literally) and then it's suposed to begin to rain on Wednesday. So maybe some time to do the cassette hack unless something on the honey-do lits wins. Like the pool sweep that just quit. Told you it just looked like single screw and some locating pins -- if any pins. There are two more locations, seems they just didn't put them in. Oh well. However, a pump broke so I've got some other work cut out for me first :-( My tale of woe (stupidity): the Vuelta Corsa SLX disc rear that I got from Nashbar dirt-cheap suffered a broken spoke -- rear drive side. The wheel is amazingly robust for an el-cheapo prefab wheel, and the break is totally my fault. I threw on an old rear derailleur last year because the previous old rear derailleur finally wore out. The bike has been the sump for all my old, used parts. Anyway, I was in a hurry, threw it on, took off and overshifted into the spokes. Deja vu 1978. I scarred up the outbound spokes badly and one finally broke. Now I have to find a suitable replacement(s), which will be difficult from my vast used spoke collection because they are all too long. I'll probably have to buy a few from Universal. Though shalt not ride off without properly adjusting the limit screws, even with index shifters. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ |
#83
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Chain wear and cassette question
On 2018-11-20 16:35, John B. slocomb wrote:
On Tue, 20 Nov 2018 16:17:55 -0800 (PST), jbeattie wrote: On Tuesday, November 20, 2018 at 10:03:26 AM UTC-8, AMuzi wrote: On 11/20/2018 10:36 AM, jbeattie wrote: On Tuesday, November 20, 2018 at 7:24:13 AM UTC-8, Joerg wrote: On 2018-11-18 10:17, wrote: On Saturday, November 10, 2018 at 2:53:28 PM UTC-8, John B. slocomb wrote: On Sat, 10 Nov 2018 12:51:48 -0800, Joerg wrote: To my amazement a Sachs-Sedis chain will absolutely not exceed 0.5% stretch after more than 5000mi, despite some hills where one has to stand in the pedals. Never had a chain last this long. However, the rollers have developed a lot of play, about 0.040" or 1mm. How much is too much? I guess it's almost finished because of those rollers. Getting older, I'd like to increase the large cog to at least 40T from my current 32T. Of course, that will require me to retire the trusty old Shimano 600 derailer. I don't want the cassette to become ever wider and also need to maintain 7-speed spacing so I can use the more robust old-style 7.3mm pin length chains such as KMC Z50 (can't find the Sachs anymore). In the past I hacked cassettes, installed the cogs I wanted and re-used the old spacers. Can the larger cassettes like in the link below still be hacked apart? I don't mind drilling or dremeling stuff to get them apart. If memory serves me correctly I've installed a Shimano STX-RC freehub on the road bike after the last UG freehub had croaked. https://www.ebay.com/itm/SunRace-CSM...k/132325285327 My rather limited experience has been that the cassettes with the larger cogs usually have the largest 3 or 4 cogs riveted to a hub that connects them to the free hub so yes you can hack them if you accept the size and spacing of the largest three, or so, cogs. Some time ago I think you talked about using friction shifters and if you do that then the spacing of the cassette is no longer relevant as the friction shifters will shift any cassette. cheers, John B. I was repairing a friend's bike yesterday and he uses a 10 speed 12-34 and the lower 8 speeds of the Deore cassette were all rivetted together. I didn't like the cassette or the long arm derailleur that goes with it. Yesterday I received the big Sunrace cassette, including new derailer and derailer extender. The cassette has only one screw and it almost fell into pieces when I dragged it out of its box. Not a problem, just strange. It's huge, almost the diameter of a dessert plate. This week's ride got smoked out (literally) and then it's suposed to begin to rain on Wednesday. So maybe some time to do the cassette hack unless something on the honey-do lits wins. Like the pool sweep that just quit. Told you it just looked like single screw and some locating pins -- if any pins. My tale of woe (stupidity): the Vuelta Corsa SLX disc rear that I got from Nashbar dirt-cheap suffered a broken spoke -- rear drive side. The wheel is amazingly robust for an el-cheapo prefab wheel, and the break is totally my fault. I threw on an old rear derailleur last year because the previous old rear derailleur finally wore out. The bike has been the sump for all my old, used parts. Anyway, I was in a hurry, threw it on, took off and overshifted into the spokes. Deja vu 1978. I scarred up the outbound spokes badly and one finally broke. Now I have to find a suitable replacement(s), which will be difficult from my vast used spoke collection because they are all too long. I'll probably have to buy a few from Universal. http://www.yellowjersey.org/fiberfix.html I had two of those in my winter fixie wheel* for 5~6 years until the volume of dents reached a point where a new wheel made sense. *other damage prevented sprocket removal I'm going to see if I can get a hose clamp to work. Or maybe I'll just use a spoke. As it turns out, it's a 292mm (according to the Vuelta guys, who returned my e-mail promptly), and I think I have some of those hanging around -- or close enough. -- Jay Beattie. I know that America is bigger and better but do they sell hose clamps large enough to fit a wheel? Yup, the oil folks got those. There is one around our pool filter which has about the diameter of a bicycle wheel. How clamps rock. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ |
#84
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Chain wear and cassette question
On Tuesday, November 20, 2018 at 4:17:57 PM UTC-8, jbeattie wrote:
On Tuesday, November 20, 2018 at 10:03:26 AM UTC-8, AMuzi wrote: On 11/20/2018 10:36 AM, jbeattie wrote: On Tuesday, November 20, 2018 at 7:24:13 AM UTC-8, Joerg wrote: On 2018-11-18 10:17, wrote: On Saturday, November 10, 2018 at 2:53:28 PM UTC-8, John B. slocomb wrote: On Sat, 10 Nov 2018 12:51:48 -0800, Joerg wrote: To my amazement a Sachs-Sedis chain will absolutely not exceed 0.5% stretch after more than 5000mi, despite some hills where one has to stand in the pedals. Never had a chain last this long. However, the rollers have developed a lot of play, about 0.040" or 1mm. How much is too much? I guess it's almost finished because of those rollers. Getting older, I'd like to increase the large cog to at least 40T from my current 32T. Of course, that will require me to retire the trusty old Shimano 600 derailer. I don't want the cassette to become ever wider and also need to maintain 7-speed spacing so I can use the more robust old-style 7.3mm pin length chains such as KMC Z50 (can't find the Sachs anymore). In the past I hacked cassettes, installed the cogs I wanted and re-used the old spacers. Can the larger cassettes like in the link below still be hacked apart? I don't mind drilling or dremeling stuff to get them apart. If memory serves me correctly I've installed a Shimano STX-RC freehub on the road bike after the last UG freehub had croaked. https://www.ebay.com/itm/SunRace-CSM...k/132325285327 My rather limited experience has been that the cassettes with the larger cogs usually have the largest 3 or 4 cogs riveted to a hub that connects them to the free hub so yes you can hack them if you accept the size and spacing of the largest three, or so, cogs. Some time ago I think you talked about using friction shifters and if you do that then the spacing of the cassette is no longer relevant as the friction shifters will shift any cassette. cheers, John B. I was repairing a friend's bike yesterday and he uses a 10 speed 12-34 and the lower 8 speeds of the Deore cassette were all rivetted together. I didn't like the cassette or the long arm derailleur that goes with it. Yesterday I received the big Sunrace cassette, including new derailer and derailer extender. The cassette has only one screw and it almost fell into pieces when I dragged it out of its box. Not a problem, just strange. It's huge, almost the diameter of a dessert plate. This week's ride got smoked out (literally) and then it's suposed to begin to rain on Wednesday. So maybe some time to do the cassette hack unless something on the honey-do lits wins. Like the pool sweep that just quit. Told you it just looked like single screw and some locating pins -- if any pins. My tale of woe (stupidity): the Vuelta Corsa SLX disc rear that I got from Nashbar dirt-cheap suffered a broken spoke -- rear drive side. The wheel is amazingly robust for an el-cheapo prefab wheel, and the break is totally my fault. I threw on an old rear derailleur last year because the previous old rear derailleur finally wore out. The bike has been the sump for all my old, used parts. Anyway, I was in a hurry, threw it on, took off and overshifted into the spokes. Deja vu 1978. I scarred up the outbound spokes badly and one finally broke. Now I have to find a suitable replacement(s), which will be difficult from my vast used spoke collection because they are all too long. I'll probably have to buy a few from Universal. http://www.yellowjersey.org/fiberfix.html I had two of those in my winter fixie wheel* for 5~6 years until the volume of dents reached a point where a new wheel made sense. *other damage prevented sprocket removal I'm going to see if I can get a hose clamp to work. Or maybe I'll just use a spoke. As it turns out, it's a 292mm (according to the Vuelta guys, who returned my e-mail promptly), and I think I have some of those hanging around -- or close enough. -- Jay Beattie. FYI, for the historical record, the Vuelta SLX disc rear drive side is 289mm and not 292mm. Luckily, I had one sitting around. And more surprisingly, after taking off the cassette, the broken spoke was inbound and not outbound -- and not one of the spokes that had been scarred by the over-shift. I'm not excited about aero spokes and the thread goop on most prefab wheels. It makes it hard to do repairs and re-truing. -- Jay Beattie. |
#85
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Chain wear and cassette question
On Tuesday, November 20, 2018 at 3:47:15 PM UTC-8, Andre Jute wrote:
On Saturday, November 17, 2018 at 11:39:15 PM UTC, Ralph Barone wrote: I've always wanted a second smaller bar mounted in front of my regular bar for lights, GPS and whatever other **** I needed right in front of me. Sheldon's quill into a threadless stem idea was nifty, but being able to bolt a second stem at the end of the first would be even better. My steering setup is quill into threadless stem. (Newbies should take care to understand how each of the two systems work before they attempt this trick, or have the LBS fit the components. A steering failure from incompetent assembly could result in a nasty face plant or worse.) First you have to clamp down the steerer tube, which you would normally do with the stem on the more normal setup. I use a seat tube clamp. Then you fit the quill inside the steerer tube, stack spacers and fit the stem at its new height. My purpose was simply to raise the handlebars substantially. However you can also use the quill to get new height on the steering tube to fit a tool bar above the handlebar stem, by using the handlebar stem as clamp and attaching the toolbar above on the height of the quill, with spacers underneath as required. Andre Jute Sets and combinations Yes, I set mine up without looking it over carefully enough. The cap was actually holding the threadless stem from tightening onto the steering tube. I rode 3 miles before it started swiveling. Luckily I was passing back past my home and I walked it home and got another bike off the shelf. Later upon looking the spacers were holding the stem slightly above the "steering head" and allowing the threadless stem to tighten onto the cap. I solved this by putting all of the spacers above the stem. |
#86
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Chain wear and cassette question
On Wednesday, November 21, 2018 at 8:07:02 AM UTC-8, jbeattie wrote:
On Tuesday, November 20, 2018 at 4:17:57 PM UTC-8, jbeattie wrote: On Tuesday, November 20, 2018 at 10:03:26 AM UTC-8, AMuzi wrote: On 11/20/2018 10:36 AM, jbeattie wrote: On Tuesday, November 20, 2018 at 7:24:13 AM UTC-8, Joerg wrote: On 2018-11-18 10:17, wrote: On Saturday, November 10, 2018 at 2:53:28 PM UTC-8, John B. slocomb wrote: On Sat, 10 Nov 2018 12:51:48 -0800, Joerg wrote: To my amazement a Sachs-Sedis chain will absolutely not exceed 0.5% stretch after more than 5000mi, despite some hills where one has to stand in the pedals. Never had a chain last this long. However, the rollers have developed a lot of play, about 0.040" or 1mm. How much is too much? I guess it's almost finished because of those rollers. Getting older, I'd like to increase the large cog to at least 40T from my current 32T. Of course, that will require me to retire the trusty old Shimano 600 derailer. I don't want the cassette to become ever wider and also need to maintain 7-speed spacing so I can use the more robust old-style 7.3mm pin length chains such as KMC Z50 (can't find the Sachs anymore). In the past I hacked cassettes, installed the cogs I wanted and re-used the old spacers. Can the larger cassettes like in the link below still be hacked apart? I don't mind drilling or dremeling stuff to get them apart. If memory serves me correctly I've installed a Shimano STX-RC freehub on the road bike after the last UG freehub had croaked. https://www.ebay.com/itm/SunRace-CSM...k/132325285327 My rather limited experience has been that the cassettes with the larger cogs usually have the largest 3 or 4 cogs riveted to a hub that connects them to the free hub so yes you can hack them if you accept the size and spacing of the largest three, or so, cogs. Some time ago I think you talked about using friction shifters and if you do that then the spacing of the cassette is no longer relevant as the friction shifters will shift any cassette. cheers, John B. I was repairing a friend's bike yesterday and he uses a 10 speed 12-34 and the lower 8 speeds of the Deore cassette were all rivetted together. I didn't like the cassette or the long arm derailleur that goes with it. Yesterday I received the big Sunrace cassette, including new derailer and derailer extender. The cassette has only one screw and it almost fell into pieces when I dragged it out of its box. Not a problem, just strange. It's huge, almost the diameter of a dessert plate. This week's ride got smoked out (literally) and then it's suposed to begin to rain on Wednesday. So maybe some time to do the cassette hack unless something on the honey-do lits wins. Like the pool sweep that just quit. Told you it just looked like single screw and some locating pins -- if any pins. My tale of woe (stupidity): the Vuelta Corsa SLX disc rear that I got from Nashbar dirt-cheap suffered a broken spoke -- rear drive side. The wheel is amazingly robust for an el-cheapo prefab wheel, and the break is totally my fault. I threw on an old rear derailleur last year because the previous old rear derailleur finally wore out. The bike has been the sump for all my old, used parts. Anyway, I was in a hurry, threw it on, took off and overshifted into the spokes. Deja vu 1978. I scarred up the outbound spokes badly and one finally broke. Now I have to find a suitable replacement(s), which will be difficult from my vast used spoke collection because they are all too long. I'll probably have to buy a few from Universal. http://www.yellowjersey.org/fiberfix.html I had two of those in my winter fixie wheel* for 5~6 years until the volume of dents reached a point where a new wheel made sense. *other damage prevented sprocket removal I'm going to see if I can get a hose clamp to work. Or maybe I'll just use a spoke. As it turns out, it's a 292mm (according to the Vuelta guys, who returned my e-mail promptly), and I think I have some of those hanging around -- or close enough. -- Jay Beattie. FYI, for the historical record, the Vuelta SLX disc rear drive side is 289mm and not 292mm. Luckily, I had one sitting around. And more surprisingly, after taking off the cassette, the broken spoke was inbound and not outbound -- and not one of the spokes that had been scarred by the over-shift. I'm not excited about aero spokes and the thread goop on most prefab wheels. It makes it hard to do repairs and re-truing. -- Jay Beattie. I agree with you about aero spokes. Especially if you have deep aero wheels so that the actual speed of the spokes are quite low and making aero spokes pretty much useless. |
#87
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Chain wear and cassette question
Joerg writes:
On 2018-11-20 16:35, John B. slocomb wrote: On Tue, 20 Nov 2018 16:17:55 -0800 (PST), jbeattie wrote: On Tuesday, November 20, 2018 at 10:03:26 AM UTC-8, AMuzi wrote: On 11/20/2018 10:36 AM, jbeattie wrote: [ ... ] My tale of woe (stupidity): the Vuelta Corsa SLX disc rear that I got from Nashbar dirt-cheap suffered a broken spoke -- rear drive side. The wheel is amazingly robust for an el-cheapo prefab wheel, and the break is totally my fault. I threw on an old rear derailleur last year because the previous old rear derailleur finally wore out. The bike has been the sump for all my old, used parts. Anyway, I was in a hurry, threw it on, took off and overshifted into the spokes. Deja vu 1978. I scarred up the outbound spokes badly and one finally broke. Now I have to find a suitable replacement(s), which will be difficult from my vast used spoke collection because they are all too long. I'll probably have to buy a few from Universal. http://www.yellowjersey.org/fiberfix.html I had two of those in my winter fixie wheel* for 5~6 years until the volume of dents reached a point where a new wheel made sense. *other damage prevented sprocket removal I'm going to see if I can get a hose clamp to work. Or maybe I'll just use a spoke. As it turns out, it's a 292mm (according to the Vuelta guys, who returned my e-mail promptly), and I think I have some of those hanging around -- or close enough. -- Jay Beattie. I know that America is bigger and better but do they sell hose clamps large enough to fit a wheel? Yup, the oil folks got those. There is one around our pool filter which has about the diameter of a bicycle wheel. How clamps rock. I see large hose clamps used to attach things to utility poles around here. Like these: https://www.safetysign.com/products/...yABEgJce_D_BwE https://tinyurl.com/yao5gbeb -- |
#89
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Chain wear and cassette question
On Wednesday, November 21, 2018 at 4:24:36 PM UTC, wrote:
On Tuesday, November 20, 2018 at 3:47:15 PM UTC-8, Andre Jute wrote: On Saturday, November 17, 2018 at 11:39:15 PM UTC, Ralph Barone wrote: I've always wanted a second smaller bar mounted in front of my regular bar for lights, GPS and whatever other **** I needed right in front of me. Sheldon's quill into a threadless stem idea was nifty, but being able to bolt a second stem at the end of the first would be even better. My steering setup is quill into threadless stem. (Newbies should take care to understand how each of the two systems work before they attempt this trick, or have the LBS fit the components. A steering failure from incompetent assembly could result in a nasty face plant or worse.) First you have to clamp down the steerer tube, which you would normally do with the stem on the more normal setup. I use a seat tube clamp. Then you fit the quill inside the steerer tube, stack spacers and fit the stem at its new height. My purpose was simply to raise the handlebars substantially. However you can also use the quill to get new height on the steering tube to fit a tool bar above the handlebar stem, by using the handlebar stem as clamp and attaching the toolbar above on the height of the quill, with spacers underneath as required. Andre Jute Sets and combinations Yes, I set mine up without looking it over carefully enough. The cap was actually holding the threadless stem from tightening onto the steering tube.. I rode 3 miles before it started swiveling. Luckily I was passing back past my home and I walked it home and got another bike off the shelf. Later upon looking the spacers were holding the stem slightly above the "steering head" and allowing the threadless stem to tighten onto the cap. I solved this by putting all of the spacers above the stem. That's exactly the sort of detail that I mean that shouldn't be overlooked because the outcome could be at least tiresome or at worst very serious indeed. AJ |
#90
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Chain wear and cassette question
On Thursday, November 15, 2018 at 4:19:45 PM UTC, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-11-14 19:01, Gregory Sutter wrote: On top of the top tube does seem like the best location for water on Joerg's Fuji. Looks like a nice spot for a strap-on cage, one that could hold a large bike bottle. Until you crash or have to jump in a hurry. That would change the voice to soprano :-) Countertenor. Andre Jute Unless you've suddenly joined the LGBTQWERTYs |
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