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Rear wheel building questions
I have a self-built rear wheel with Mavic CXP33 rim, 32 DT 14/15/14G spokes and a modern Campagnolo Chorus hub. The wheel has about 13 months or 6500 kilometres on it. It was the first wheel I ever built, and I built it three-cross on the right and radial on the left. It's been mostly troublefree, but I've noticed that the left-side spokes have gradually lost some of their tension. Not enough to make it unrideable, but I've had to tighten the left-side spokes twice because of the tight clearance of the break pads. When I built the wheel, I didn't lubricate the threads of the radial left spokes, as recommended by Sheldon Brown, but I didn't use any kind of thread lock either. I think I tensioned the wheel to the verge of tacoing, as described in the Book, but it is possible that my observations while tensioning the wheel were not correct due to inexperience. I don't have a tensiometer so I can't give any absolute values. I have thought of two alternatives to fix the problem of loosening left-side spokes for good: 1) Rebuild the wheel with the same spokes and spoking pattern, using new nipples and thread lock. 2) Rebuild the wheel three-cross on both sides, and perhaps with thinner spokes. However, it's been pointed out that rebuilding a wheel with a different spoking pattern with the same hub can lead to hub flange failure. Does this also apply to the left flange of a heavily dished rear wheel, where spoke tension is very low? Educated opinions are welcome. I weigh barely 60 kilograms, so building a reliable wheel with these components should be a no-brainer. -as |
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#2
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Rear wheel building questions
Antti- I have a self-built rear wheel with Mavic CXP33 rim, 32 DT 14/15/14G
spokes and a modern Campagnolo Chorus hub. The wheel has about 13 months or 6500 kilometres on it. It was the first wheel I ever built, and I built it three-cross on the right and radial on the left. It's been mostly troublefree, but I've noticed that the left-side spokes have gradually lost some of their tension. Not enough to make it unrideable, but I've had to tighten the left-side spokes twice because of the tight clearance of the break pads. BRBR It was outta dish, pulled to the right? If the left side 'lost tension', it was because the right wasn't tensioned enough..It doesn't just change dish, having all the left side get loose. When I built the wheel, I didn't lubricate the threads of the radial left spokes, as recommended by Sheldon Brown, but I didn't use any kind of thread lock either. BRBR The key to keeping the left side spokes from looening is ensuring the right side are tensioned properly. No need to threadlock anything...AND should lube all the nipps, threads. I have thought of two alternatives to fix the problem of loosening left-side spokes for good: 1) Rebuild the wheel with the same spokes and spoking pattern, using new nipples and thread lock. 2) Rebuild the wheel three-cross on both sides, and perhaps with thinner spokes. However, it's been pointed out that rebuilding a wheel with a different spoking pattern with the same hub can lead to hub flange failure. Does this also apply to the left flange of a heavily dished rear wheel, where spoke tension is very low? Educated opinions are welcome. I weigh barely 60 kilograms, so building a reliable wheel with these components should be a no-brainer. BRBR Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St. Boulder, CO, 80302 (303)440-3535 http://www.vecchios.com "Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene" |
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Rear wheel building questions
Antti- 1) Rebuild the wheel with the same spokes and spoking pattern, using
new nipples and thread lock. 2) Rebuild the wheel three-cross on both sides, and perhaps with thinner spokes. However, it's been pointed out that rebuilding a wheel with a different spoking pattern with the same hub can lead to hub flange failure. Does this also apply to the left flange of a heavily dished rear wheel, where spoke tension is very low? Retension the wheel, make the right side proper, with the rim round, dished, true and stress relieved. radial does nothin but it is what it is....I wouldn't relace it, your warranty is already history. I think the tension of the right wasn't proper, not spoke gauge or threadlock stuff... Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St. Boulder, CO, 80302 (303)440-3535 http://www.vecchios.com "Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene" |
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Rear wheel building questions
"Antti Salonen" wrote in message ... I have a self-built rear wheel with Mavic CXP33 rim, 32 DT 14/15/14G spokes and a modern Campagnolo Chorus hub. The wheel has about 13 months or 6500 kilometres on it. It was the first wheel I ever built, and I built it three-cross on the right and radial on the left. It's been mostly troublefree, but I've noticed that the left-side spokes have gradually lost some of their tension. Not enough to make it unrideable, but I've had to tighten the left-side spokes twice because of the tight clearance of the break pads. When I built the wheel, I didn't lubricate the threads of the radial left spokes, as recommended by Sheldon Brown, but I didn't use any kind of thread lock either. I think I tensioned the wheel to the verge of tacoing, as described in the Book, but it is possible that my observations while tensioning the wheel were not correct due to inexperience. I don't have a tensiometer so I can't give any absolute values. I have thought of two alternatives to fix the problem of loosening left-side spokes for good: 1) Rebuild the wheel with the same spokes and spoking pattern, using new nipples and thread lock. 2) Rebuild the wheel three-cross on both sides, and perhaps with thinner spokes. However, it's been pointed out that rebuilding a wheel with a different spoking pattern with the same hub can lead to hub flange failure. Does this also apply to the left flange of a heavily dished rear wheel, where spoke tension is very low? Educated opinions are welcome. I weigh barely 60 kilograms, so building a reliable wheel with these components should be a no-brainer. -as Read The Book again. I agree with most of what Sheldon Brown suggest, but I don't agree with radial spoking or omitting lubrication on any spokes or nipples. You may have had residual spoke wind-up, especially due to the lack of lubrication. Spokes will also settle towards their straight line alignment. There is a section of The Book that demonstrates methods of spoke alignment. David Ornee, Western Springs, IL |
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Rear wheel building questions
David Ornee wrote:
Read The Book again. I agree with most of what Sheldon Brown suggest, but I don't agree with radial spoking or omitting lubrication on any spokes or nipples. You may have had residual spoke wind-up, especially due to the lack of lubrication. I very much doubt that. I carefully lubricated the drive-side three-cross spokes and nipples, just not the radial left-side nipples. The tension on the left side was low and the friction in the threads lower than usual because of the radial spoking. There was very little friction when I turned the nipples while building the wheel, and I'm confident I would've felt the 1.8 mm spokes winding up, as it's really quite apparent. I think the overall tension of the wheel was simply too low. Thanks for replies. -as |
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