Fixing up an 85 Cannondale, Please advise!

So earlier I posted a question about possibly forgoing buying a bike,
and just borrowing an old friend's 85 cannondale road bike. I finally
picked up the bike today to see if it's in shape for a round-trip 24
mile commute, and I must say I was amazed at how beautiful a bike from
1985 could be.

Anyway, I'm new to cycling entirely, and was wondering whether I
should spend 700 on a new bike, or should i just consider changing
some of the components on this older model (brakes in front are a
little bit uneven, i probably ought to take it to a shop that can fit
the bike to me...). What are the big changes that took place between
then and now? Do I just stick with what I have?

If i got a new bike, i was leaning towards touring. Although with the
quality of the roads on the way to work (multi-potholes) perhaps I
would be best doing it with a hybrid.

Thoughts on repairs/upgrades? Let's say you had 200 bucks with an 85
cannondale (tuned up 2 years ago). What do you do?

Side question: How does one get used to that forward position that
drop handlebars seem to require? Do I ride in a parking lot to get
acclimated? How long does that usually take?

"Reggie" wrote:
So earlier I posted a question about possibly forgoing buying a bike,
and just borrowing an old friend's 85 cannondale road bike. I finally
picked up the bike today to see if it's in shape for a round-trip 24
mile commute, and I must say I was amazed at how beautiful a bike from
1985 could be.

Anyway, I'm new to cycling entirely, and was wondering whether I
should spend 700 on a new bike, or should i just consider changing
some of the components on this older model (brakes in front are a
little bit uneven, i probably ought to take it to a shop that can fit
the bike to me...). What are the big changes that took place between
then and now? Do I just stick with what I have?

If i got a new bike, i was leaning towards touring. Although with the
quality of the roads on the way to work (multi-potholes) perhaps I
would be best doing it with a hybrid.

Thoughts on repairs/upgrades? Let's say you had 200 bucks with an 85
cannondale (tuned up 2 years ago). What do you do?

Side question: How does one get used to that forward position that
drop handlebars seem to require? Do I ride in a parking lot to get
acclimated? How long does that usually take?

There are several things for you to consider. In order of importance, you
need to determine:

1) Is the the bike the right size for you? Even if you and your friend are
close to the same height, you may be proportioned differently. And there's
no guarrantee this bike was the right size for your friend in the first
place. (There's much more to fit than straddling the top tube.) If the bike
isn't the proper size for you, don't invest any money in it.

2) Do you really want a road bike? It sounds like you're not comfortable on
it. That may be because it's the wrong size or set up improperly. Or maybe
you'd be better off with a hybrid that offers a more upright postion.

3) Maintenance issues. At least for now concentrate on fit issues and
making the bike functional. You probably need new brake/derailleur cables
and housings, new brake pads, new tires, new chain, etc. Don't know what you
mean by "brakes not even." That could just mean the pads aren't aligned or
the caliper isn't centered. Or it could mean the wheel is out of true.

4) Upgrades. I'm guessing this bike has a 7-speed cassette and downtube
shifters. That's good enough for now. Modern road bikes have combined
brake/shift levers and 9 or 10 speed cassettes. Upgrading can be expensive,
and spreading the rear dropouts of an aluminum frame to accomodate more
gears is not a good idea.

If you're primarily interested in touring/commuting, go with slightly wider
tires (700 x 25 or 700 x 28) if they fit the frame.

Bring the bike to a good shop and get their opinion. They will let you know
if the bike is the right size, help adjust the fit, and take care of
whatever maintenance is required. While you're there, test ride a hybrid to
see if you prefer that type of bike.

Art Harris

On 18 Jul 2004 01:56:42 -0700, (Reggie)
wrote:

So earlier I posted a question about possibly forgoing buying a bike,
and just borrowing an old friend's 85 cannondale road bike. I finally
picked up the bike today to see if it's in shape for a round-trip 24
mile commute, and I must say I was amazed at how beautiful a bike from
1985 could be.

Anyway, I'm new to cycling entirely, and was wondering whether I
should spend 700 on a new bike, or should i just consider changing
some of the components on this older model (brakes in front are a
little bit uneven, i probably ought to take it to a shop that can fit
the bike to me...). What are the big changes that took place between
then and now? Do I just stick with what I have?

If i got a new bike, i was leaning towards touring. Although with the
quality of the roads on the way to work (multi-potholes) perhaps I
would be best doing it with a hybrid.

Thoughts on repairs/upgrades? Let's say you had 200 bucks with an 85
cannondale (tuned up 2 years ago). What do you do?

Side question: How does one get used to that forward position that
drop handlebars seem to require? Do I ride in a parking lot to get
acclimated? How long does that usually take?


Hi, if the bike is basically the right size, I would fix just what is
necessary and ride it. In a few months, you will have a much better
idea of what you need and want.

Yes, take it to a shop and get new tubes, tires, and brake shoes. Get
a basic tune up and have them check the chain. Have them raise the
stem/handlebars and adjust the saddle to the general area of correct
height. Two options would be a new saddle, get an inexpensive one, for
now, and new handlebar tape.

If you are uncomfortable on streets and paths, then, go where there is
an open area and practice. If the bike is of a reasonable fit, and you
are in reasonable physical condition, you will get used to it.

Here read the info at this link:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/beginners/index.html
Lots of good info for the beginner and for the rest of us;-)

Life is Good!
Jeff

(Reggie) wrote in message . com...
Anyway, I'm new to cycling entirely, and was wondering whether I
should spend 700 on a new bike, or should i just consider changing
some of the components on this older model (brakes in front are a
little bit uneven, i probably ought to take it to a shop that can fit
the bike to me...). What are the big changes that took place between
then and now? Do I just stick with what I have?

Here's what I would do. Take the bike to a good shop and get them to
check it out and see if everything is sound. Have them check to see
if the bike fits you and let them adjust the bike to you. It will be
money well spent.

If the bike and the components are sound and it fits, ride it. After
a while you will figure out what you like and don't like and can make
an educated decision as to whether you want to upgrade any of the
components or not.

Dick Durbin

On 18 Jul 2004 01:56:42 -0700, (Reggie)
wrote:

So earlier I posted a question about possibly forgoing buying a bike,
and just borrowing an old friend's 85 cannondale road bike. I finally
picked up the bike today to see if it's in shape for a round-trip 24
mile commute, and I must say I was amazed at how beautiful a bike from
1985 could be.

Bicycles are beautiful, elegant machines. Road bicycles from another
age have a kind of grace that modern compact-geometry bikes don't
have.

Anyway, I'm new to cycling entirely, and was wondering whether I
should spend 700 on a new bike, or should i just consider changing
some of the components on this older model (brakes in front are a
little bit uneven

Define "uneven"? Brakes often need to be 'toed-in' to prevent a nasty
squeal every time you brake.

If you've got piccies of the bike, we'd be able to help you appraise
it!

, i probably ought to take it to a shop that can fit
the bike to me...).

Well if you've got a friend who rides, then he can help you out, too.
Standover height isn't everything. Get on the bike, ride it around,
see what works and what doesn't.

What are the big changes that took place between
then and now? Do I just stick with what I have?

1) Integrated shifting and braking. This is huge--it allows you to
shift from the handlebars (from the brake levers, to be specific).

2) Clipless pedals: shoe/cleat/pedal systems that lock you to the
pedals securely without using clips and straps...think like skiboots.

Is it worth dropping the money now to be up to date? Only you can
tell. Cyclists rode pretty well before without the new stuff--but the
new stuff is pretty cool.


If i got a new bike, i was leaning towards touring. Although with the
quality of the roads on the way to work (multi-potholes) perhaps I
would be best doing it with a hybrid.


Tourers will handle the roads you intend to ride, unless your dealing
with shell holes.

Does the bike have double or triple chainrings? If you want to tour
on this bike, it had better have a triple, unless you're Superman or a
masochist (and some would argue that Superman *was* a masochist).

Thoughts on repairs/upgrades? Let's say you had 200 bucks with an 85
cannondale (tuned up 2 years ago). What do you do?

For repairs, I'd have to see the bike itself.

For a commuter, I'd buy a rack, some fenders, a set of lights.


If the bike fits you, and you like it, and nothing's seriously broken,
buy it. A not-quite-optimal tourer would still be a great
commuter--and if you decide that cycling's your thing, you can spend
the RealMoney (TM) on a tourer.

That's what I did--I bought a cheap-ass ($ 75, US) used Raleigh road
bike (ca 1984), used that to learn on (and had a lot of fun, too).
When I knew what I wanted, I dropped $450 on the Jamis Aurora which is
now my principal ride.


Side question: How does one get used to that forward position that
drop handlebars seem to require? Do I ride in a parking lot to get
acclimated? How long does that usually take?

I've posted extensively on the merits of drops, and how I set them up
to be comfortable. Remember: you're not supposed to ride deep in the
drops ALL THE TIME.

I ride with my hands on the brake lever hoods 90 percent of the time,
and find the position quite natural. I have raised the handlebars to
the level of my saddle, and that works just great for me.

-Luigi

On Mon, 19 Jul 2004 00:37:23 -0400, Luigi de Guzman
wrote:
For a commuter, I'd buy a rack, some fenders, a set of lights.

I'd buy the rack and lights even if not a commuter.
--
Rick Onanian

Question: I also can have a 94 touring fuji. Question is, I want to
have the shifting in the handlebars-- I'm new with this whole drop bar
thing, and I don't like having to move my hands to shift. Is it
possible to pay the bike shop to install handlebars that would include
shifters? How much would something like that run?


(Reggie) wrote in message . com...
So earlier I posted a question about possibly forgoing buying a bike,
and just borrowing an old friend's 85 cannondale road bike. I finally
picked up the bike today to see if it's in shape for a round-trip 24
mile commute, and I must say I was amazed at how beautiful a bike from
1985 could be.

Anyway, I'm new to cycling entirely, and was wondering whether I
should spend 700 on a new bike, or should i just consider changing
some of the components on this older model (brakes in front are a
little bit uneven, i probably ought to take it to a shop that can fit
the bike to me...). What are the big changes that took place between
then and now? Do I just stick with what I have?

If i got a new bike, i was leaning towards touring. Although with the
quality of the roads on the way to work (multi-potholes) perhaps I
would be best doing it with a hybrid.

Thoughts on repairs/upgrades? Let's say you had 200 bucks with an 85
cannondale (tuned up 2 years ago). What do you do?

Side question: How does one get used to that forward position that
drop handlebars seem to require? Do I ride in a parking lot to get
acclimated? How long does that usually take?

On 19 Jul 2004 13:04:50 -0700, (Reggie)
wrote:
Question: I also can have a 94 touring fuji. Question is, I want to
possible to pay the bike shop to install handlebars that would include
shifters? How much would something like that run?

It depends on exactly what equipment your bike has; probably nobody
here would know. However, it will most likely cost almost as much as
a brand new Fuji Touring, which includes what you want (known as
"integrated shift levers", "STI", or known here as "brifters").

Here's why (prices are GUESSES of cost at LBS):
STI levers: $150
New rear wheel: $120
New cassette: $60
New cables/housings: $20
New front derailer: $30
New rear derailer: $60
New crankset: $120
Labor: $100
Total: $660

In reality, you won't need the rear derailer, and the wheel can be
re-worked (for more $$$ in labor and a new hub, costing more). You
probably don't need the crankset either. Many LBS won't want to do
the work without those items, though. A new Fuji Touring costs
something like $800, and a similar new Jamis Aurora is less.
--
Rick Onanian

On Tue, 20 Jul 2004 22:14:51 -0400, Rick Onanian
wrote:

On 19 Jul 2004 13:04:50 -0700, (Reggie)
wrote:
Question: I also can have a 94 touring fuji. Question is, I want to
possible to pay the bike shop to install handlebars that would include
shifters? How much would something like that run?

Here's why (prices are GUESSES of cost at LBS):
STI levers: $150

Not necessary. Bar-ends will be just fine.

New rear wheel: $120

Maybe unnecessary.

New cassette: $60

Depends on wear.

New cables/housings: $20

VERY good idea.

New front derailer: $30
New rear derailer: $60
New crankset: $120


Again, maybe unnecessary.

But then, it may just be that I'm a cheapskate, and blessed,
cyclingwise, with a bit of a mend-and-make-do ethic.

The main thing is to get a bike that works for you. In my experience,
that meant getting an old bike, cheap, to learn what I wanted,
exactly, before I spent RealMoney on a new bike. By the time I wanted
the NEW bike, I already had very clear idea of what I wanted in a
bicycle...and wasn't bothered that I had to spend a bit for what I
wanted.

-Luigi

On Tue, 20 Jul 2004 22:30:18 -0400, Luigi de Guzman
wrote:
On Tue, 20 Jul 2004 22:14:51 -0400, Rick Onanian
On 19 Jul 2004 13:04:50 -0700, (Reggie)
possible to pay the bike shop to install handlebars that would include
shifters? How much would something like that run?

Here's why (prices are GUESSES of cost at LBS):
STI levers: $150
Not necessary. Bar-ends will be just fine.

Good point; I hadn't thought outside of what the OP asked for. I'm
pretty sure he was talking about STI. However, bar-end shifters may
be as far away for him as his existing [IIRC] stem shifters, unless
he rides in the drops often, and his goal was to keep his hands in
one spot when shifting.

New rear wheel: $120
Maybe unnecessary.

I said the same. However, his LBS will probably charge more to do
the modifications, if they'll do them at all.

New cassette: $60
Depends on wear.

If he uses bar-end shifters, he can use them in friction mode with
his old cassette, true.

New front derailer: $30
New rear derailer: $60
New crankset: $120

Again, maybe unnecessary.

With indexed shifting, the front derailer probably won't work, and
maybe the chainrings will be spaced wrong. The rear derailer is most
likely fine, but the bike shop won't want to do it without the rear.

But then, it may just be that I'm a cheapskate, and blessed,
cyclingwise, with a bit of a mend-and-make-do ethic.

We enjoy doing this stuff ourselves, and anybody that does can read
rec.bicycles.tech and sheldonbrown.com and learn all about the
cheapest ways to DIY. Going to a bike shop, you won't get them to do
it those ways.

The main thing is to get a bike that works for you. In my experience,
that meant getting an old bike, cheap, to learn what I wanted,
exactly, before I spent RealMoney on a new bike. By the time I wanted
the NEW bike, I already had very clear idea of what I wanted in a

Very good point.
--
Rick Onanian