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Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
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Right size wrenches/spanners, the proper nuts, and wrenches designedto ruin components
On Sunday, May 17, 2015 at 3:08:22 PM UTC+1, John B. wrote to Jeff Liebermann:
But over torqueing? Pedals take, I believe, a 15 MM wrench. A common 15 MM wrench (or the ones in my tool chest) measure about 6 inches over all, say 5.5 inches from the center of the 15mm fastener to the free end of the wrench. I suggest that it would take a pretty husky bloke to strip the threads out of the aluminum crank with a wrench of that size. Purpose-designed pedal spanners are about 12 inches long, at least mine is. It came in a German toolkit, so I presume it was correctly designed for the job. However, what I find very odd is that the articulated C-spanner from the same kit is about six inches long, maybe only five, and yet is intended to pull up a bottom bracket lockring to 30-40Nm. That's clearly impossible unless you're a 900 pound gorilla with your own fulltime personal physiotherapist. The other day, when for the first time I wanted to use it (never having had a bottom bracket or any other ocmponent with that format lock), I checked my other toolkits and without exception the hooked-C spanner was 5-7inches long, nothing at all like the length required. I imagine the spsnner was originally designed to do something much less forceful in the sprocket cluster (too long ago for me to remember -- I haven't had anything except internal hub gearboxes on any of my bikes for around twenty years now), and only later applied to bottom brackets... A newly bought X-Tools wrench for the Shimano Hollowtech II BB locking is about 10 inches long and comfortably shaped and padded, but I still doubt that even with my 195 pounds of rippling muscle the 35Nm spec demanded by the component was achieved. I really liked the older Shimano model of BB lockring, fastened by a toothed socket, driven by a half-inch bar or ratchet that you could stand up on, much better. These newfangled levers that fit loosely around fasteners seem to me designed in the first instance to ruin components. Andre Jute Relentless rigour -- Gaius Germanicus |
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#2
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Right size wrenches/spanners, the proper nuts, and wrenchesdesigned to ruin components
On Sunday, May 17, 2015 at 7:53:38 AM UTC-7, Andre Jute wrote:
On Sunday, May 17, 2015 at 3:08:22 PM UTC+1, John B. wrote to Jeff Liebermann: But over torqueing? Pedals take, I believe, a 15 MM wrench. A common 15 MM wrench (or the ones in my tool chest) measure about 6 inches over all, say 5.5 inches from the center of the 15mm fastener to the free end of the wrench. I suggest that it would take a pretty husky bloke to strip the threads out of the aluminum crank with a wrench of that size. Purpose-designed pedal spanners are about 12 inches long, at least mine is. It came in a German toolkit, so I presume it was correctly designed for the job. However, what I find very odd is that the articulated C-spanner from the same kit is about six inches long, maybe only five, and yet is intended to pull up a bottom bracket lockring to 30-40Nm. That's clearly impossible unless you're a 900 pound gorilla with your own fulltime personal physiotherapist. The other day, when for the first time I wanted to use it (never having had a bottom bracket or any other ocmponent with that format lock), I checked my other toolkits and without exception the hooked-C spanner was 5-7inches long, nothing at all like the length required. I imagine the spsnner was originally designed to do something much less forceful in the sprocket cluster (too long ago for me to remember -- I haven't had anything except internal hub gearboxes on any of my bikes for around twenty years now), and only later applied to bottom brackets... A newly bought X-Tools wrench for the Shimano Hollowtech II BB locking is about 10 inches long and comfortably shaped and padded, but I still doubt that even with my 195 pounds of rippling muscle the 35Nm spec demanded by the component was achieved. I really liked the older Shimano model of BB lockring, fastened by a toothed socket, driven by a half-inch bar or ratchet that you could stand up on, much better. These newfangled levers that fit loosely around fasteners seem to me designed in the first instance to ruin components. Andre Jute Relentless rigour -- Gaius Germanicus This was the tool of the day, and the wrench I still use for pedals with flats. http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/OTAwWDE2MDA=/z/XIwAAOSwrklVAjUm/$_57.JPG It offers plenty of leverage -- and reminds me how happy I am that I don't have to remove/install fixed cups anymore. BTW, there are toothed sockets for the Shimano BBs. http://www.wheelies.co.uk/images/Products/full63684.jpg I have lots of big tools still lying around, including a fair number of headset wrenches. I felt a little play in my threadless headset yesterday. I fixed it with a pocket tool while waiting in my buddy's driveway while he was getting ready to go on a ride. I'm pretty good at guessing at 5Nm. I'm thinking of building a Calder-ish mobile with my headset wrenches. My current hex pedal wrench. http://www.parktool.com/product/8mm-hex-tool-ht-8 Except for headset presses, which are now used for BB 30 bearings, you don't need much in the way of big tools unless you're doing frame prep/repair. -- Jay Beattie. |
#3
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Right size wrenches/spanners, the proper nuts, and wrenchesdesigned to ruin components
ONCE AGAIN
a 15MM mechanics open end wrench one end mated to a large vise grips does the job when placed on a wooden block, BB elevated same. heat and step down on pedal after cleaning n soaking in PCBlaster ignore dillitantes and boy racers |
#4
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Right size wrenches/spanners, the proper nuts, and wrenchesdesigned to ruin components
On Sunday, May 17, 2015 at 4:46:35 PM UTC+1, jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, May 17, 2015 at 7:53:38 AM UTC-7, Andre Jute wrote: On Sunday, May 17, 2015 at 3:08:22 PM UTC+1, John B. wrote to Jeff Liebermann: But over torqueing? Pedals take, I believe, a 15 MM wrench. A common 15 MM wrench (or the ones in my tool chest) measure about 6 inches over all, say 5.5 inches from the center of the 15mm fastener to the free end of the wrench. I suggest that it would take a pretty husky bloke to strip the threads out of the aluminum crank with a wrench of that size. Purpose-designed pedal spanners are about 12 inches long, at least mine is. It came in a German toolkit, so I presume it was correctly designed for the job. However, what I find very odd is that the articulated C-spanner from the same kit is about six inches long, maybe only five, and yet is intended to pull up a bottom bracket lockring to 30-40Nm. That's clearly impossible unless you're a 900 pound gorilla with your own fulltime personal physiotherapist. The other day, when for the first time I wanted to use it (never having had a bottom bracket or any other ocmponent with that format lock), I checked my other toolkits and without exception the hooked-C spanner was 5-7inches long, nothing at all like the length required. I imagine the spsnner was originally designed to do something much less forceful in the sprocket cluster (too long ago for me to remember -- I haven't had anything except internal hub gearboxes on any of my bikes for around twenty years now), and only later applied to bottom brackets... A newly bought X-Tools wrench for the Shimano Hollowtech II BB locking is about 10 inches long and comfortably shaped and padded, but I still doubt that even with my 195 pounds of rippling muscle the 35Nm spec demanded by the component was achieved. I really liked the older Shimano model of BB lockring, fastened by a toothed socket, driven by a half-inch bar or ratchet that you could stand up on, much better. These newfangled levers that fit loosely around fasteners seem to me designed in the first instance to ruin components. Andre Jute Relentless rigour -- Gaius Germanicus This was the tool of the day, and the wrench I still use for pedals with flats. http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/OTAwWDE2MDA=/z/XIwAAOSwrklVAjUm/$_57.JPG Er, excuse my ignorance, but how do you get the closed ring end onto the pedal flats between the crank and the pedal? Or is it the other end, the open wrench, that is 15mm, and the whole thing a monstrously huge tool? It offers plenty of leverage -- and reminds me how happy I am that I don't have to remove/install fixed cups anymore. BTW, there are toothed sockets for the Shimano BBs. http://www.wheelies.co.uk/images/Products/full63684.jpg Yah, I looked into them, and they didn't have the depth required for my application, which wasn't Hollowtech bearings but merely a lockring with a Hollowtech grip pattern on a Bafang BBS01 which you may imagine as a bottom bracket with a tapered axle sticking out of it but on one side only, the motor hanging off the other side of this bottom bracket which is used as the motor hanger. There's a specially made socket available in the aftermarket with enough depth, but it would cost about $220 landed here (if I'm lucky and attract the minimum taxes, fees, import duties, etc). That's a bit rich even for a fulltime tool fondler like me. I have lots of big tools still lying around, including a fair number of headset wrenches. I felt a little play in my threadless headset yesterday. I fixed it with a pocket tool while waiting in my buddy's driveway while he was getting ready to go on a ride. I'm pretty good at guessing at 5Nm. I'm thinking of building a Calder-ish mobile with my headset wrenches. I still have two bikes with normal quill headsets, and my everyday Koranic operates on a threadless to quill conversion to gain 60mm of handlebar height; I hope I remember how to get it out of the n'lock stem (which unlocks the steerer tube from the handlebars) if I ever need to disassemble it, or the bike will be destroyed. You can't have my headset spanners (two huge, two touring but still big by modern standards) for your mobile. My current hex pedal wrench. http://www.parktool.com/product/8mm-hex-tool-ht-8 I have something similar in a black box of torx and hex T spanners which are so useful that it is always the first thing I pick up, and sometimes I don't even open the large wheeled pilot's case which holds all the tools to do all the jobs I've ever tackled or at least contemplated doing on my current bikes. Only six fasteners on my bike which are not either hex or torx, and for them I have special open spanner, 8x10mm, a tiny bike-specific forging for a kit Draper sold many years ago that went off the market because it was too pricey for their usual clientele. A common workalike for people who want one like mine is to buy a small 8x10 brake spanner from the motor factors and simply grind it flatter and lighter. So my onbike emergency toolkit consists of a 68gr Topeak Tool Bar (it looks like a toy you carry on your keyring but it is a very serious tool, no longer made; if I see one I will buy a spare), which holds all the hex and torx bits I could require, and a small 8x10mm open-ended spanner for all other nuts. That's it. The Tool Bar incorporates aluminium tyre levers but I have never used them. Except for headset presses, which are now used for BB 30 bearings, you don't need much in the way of big tools unless you're doing frame prep/repair.. I like tools but a cyclist with a life who starts eyeing headset presses needs psychiatric help more than another tool. Andre Jute Toolfondler |
#5
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Right size wrenches/spanners, the proper nuts, and wrenches designed to ruin components
Andre Jute wrote:
On Sunday, May 17, 2015 at 4:46:35 PM UTC+1, jbeattie wrote: On Sunday, May 17, 2015 at 7:53:38 AM UTC-7, Andre Jute wrote: On Sunday, May 17, 2015 at 3:08:22 PM UTC+1, John B. wrote to Jeff Liebermann: But over torqueing? Pedals take, I believe, a 15 MM wrench. A common 15 MM wrench (or the ones in my tool chest) measure about 6 inches over all, say 5.5 inches from the center of the 15mm fastener to the free end of the wrench. I suggest that it would take a pretty husky bloke to strip the threads out of the aluminum crank with a wrench of that size. Purpose-designed pedal spanners are about 12 inches long, at least mine is. It came in a German toolkit, so I presume it was correctly designed for the job. However, what I find very odd is that the articulated C-spanner from the same kit is about six inches long, maybe only five, and yet is intended to pull up a bottom bracket lockring to 30-40Nm. That's clearly impossible unless you're a 900 pound gorilla with your own fulltime personal physiotherapist. The other day, when for the first time I wanted to use it (never having had a bottom bracket or any other ocmponent with that format lock), I checked my other toolkits and without exception the hooked-C spanner was 5-7inches long, nothing at all like the length required. I imagine the spsnner was originally designed to do something much less forceful in the sprocket cluster (too long ago for me to remember -- I haven't had anything except internal hub gearboxes on any of my bikes for around twenty years now), and only later applied to bottom brackets... A newly bought X-Tools wrench for the Shimano Hollowtech II BB locking is about 10 inches long and comfortably shaped and padded, but I still doubt that even with my 195 pounds of rippling muscle the 35Nm spec demanded by the component was achieved. I really liked the older Shimano model of BB lockring, fastened by a toothed socket, driven by a half-inch bar or ratchet that you could stand up on, much better. These newfangled levers that fit loosely around fasteners seem to me designed in the first instance to ruin components. Andre Jute Relentless rigour -- Gaius Germanicus This was the tool of the day, and the wrench I still use for pedals with flats. http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/OTAwWDE2MDA=/z/XIwAAOSwrklVAjUm/$_57.JPG Er, excuse my ignorance, but how do you get the closed ring end onto the pedal flats between the crank and the pedal? Or is it the other end, the open wrench, that is 15mm, and the whole thing a monstrously huge tool? It offers plenty of leverage -- and reminds me how happy I am that I don't have to remove/install fixed cups anymore. BTW, there are toothed sockets for the Shimano BBs. http://www.wheelies.co.uk/images/Products/full63684.jpg Yah, I looked into them, and they didn't have the depth required for my application, which wasn't Hollowtech bearings but merely a lockring with a Hollowtech grip pattern on a Bafang BBS01 which you may imagine as a bottom bracket with a tapered axle sticking out of it but on one side only, the motor hanging off the other side of this bottom bracket which is used as the motor hanger. There's a specially made socket available in the aftermarket with enough depth, but it would cost about $220 landed here (if I'm lucky and attract the minimum taxes, fees, import duties, etc). That's a bit rich even for a fulltime tool fondler like me. I have lots of big tools still lying around, including a fair number of headset wrenches. I felt a little play in my threadless headset yesterday. I fixed it with a pocket tool while waiting in my buddy's driveway while he was getting ready to go on a ride. I'm pretty good at guessing at 5Nm. I'm thinking of building a Calder-ish mobile with my headset wrenches. I still have two bikes with normal quill headsets, and my everyday Koranic operates on a threadless to quill conversion to gain 60mm of handlebar height; I hope I remember how to get it out of the n'lock stem (which unlocks the steerer tube from the handlebars) if I ever need to disassemble it, or the bike will be destroyed. You can't have my headset spanners (two huge, two touring but still big by modern standards) for your mobile. My current hex pedal wrench. http://www.parktool.com/product/8mm-hex-tool-ht-8 I have something similar in a black box of torx and hex T spanners which are so useful that it is always the first thing I pick up, and sometimes I don't even open the large wheeled pilot's case which holds all the tools to do all the jobs I've ever tackled or at least contemplated doing on my current bikes. Only six fasteners on my bike which are not either hex or torx, and for them I have special open spanner, 8x10mm, a tiny bike-specific forging for a kit Draper sold many years ago that went off the market because it was too pricey for their usual clientele. A common workalike for people who want one like mine is to buy a small 8x10 brake spanner from the motor factors and simply grind it flatter and lighter. So my onbike emergency toolkit consists of a 68gr Topeak Tool Bar (it looks like a toy you carry on your keyring but it is a very serious tool, no longer made; if I see one I will buy a spare), which holds all the hex and torx bits I could require, and a small 8x10mm open-ended spanner for all other nuts. That's it. The Tool Bar incorporates aluminium tyre levers but I have never used them. Except for headset presses, which are now used for BB 30 bearings, you don't need much in the way of big tools unless you're doing frame prep/repair. I like tools but a cyclist with a life who starts eyeing headset presses needs psychiatric help more than another tool. Andre Jute Toolfondler Made myself a tool to press in press fit BB bearings cups. http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-H4...G_2324-001.JPG Do I need psychiatric help? -- Lou |
#6
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Right size wrenches/spanners, the proper nuts, and wrenchesdesigned to ruin components
On Sunday, May 17, 2015 at 11:17:51 AM UTC-7, Lou Holtman wrote:
Andre Jute wrote: On Sunday, May 17, 2015 at 4:46:35 PM UTC+1, jbeattie wrote: On Sunday, May 17, 2015 at 7:53:38 AM UTC-7, Andre Jute wrote: On Sunday, May 17, 2015 at 3:08:22 PM UTC+1, John B. wrote to Jeff Liebermann: But over torqueing? Pedals take, I believe, a 15 MM wrench. A common 15 MM wrench (or the ones in my tool chest) measure about 6 inches over all, say 5.5 inches from the center of the 15mm fastener to the free end of the wrench. I suggest that it would take a pretty husky bloke to strip the threads out of the aluminum crank with a wrench of that size. Purpose-designed pedal spanners are about 12 inches long, at least mine is. It came in a German toolkit, so I presume it was correctly designed for the job. However, what I find very odd is that the articulated C-spanner from the same kit is about six inches long, maybe only five, and yet is intended to pull up a bottom bracket lockring to 30-40Nm. That's clearly impossible unless you're a 900 pound gorilla with your own fulltime personal physiotherapist. The other day, when for the first time I wanted to use it (never having had a bottom bracket or any other ocmponent with that format lock), I checked my other toolkits and without exception the hooked-C spanner was 5-7inches long, nothing at all like the length required. I imagine the spsnner was originally designed to do something much less forceful in the sprocket cluster (too long ago for me to remember -- I haven't had anything except internal hub gearboxes on any of my bikes for around twenty years now), and only later applied to bottom brackets... A newly bought X-Tools wrench for the Shimano Hollowtech II BB locking is about 10 inches long and comfortably shaped and padded, but I still doubt that even with my 195 pounds of rippling muscle the 35Nm spec demanded by the component was achieved. I really liked the older Shimano model of BB lockring, fastened by a toothed socket, driven by a half-inch bar or ratchet that you could stand up on, much better. These newfangled levers that fit loosely around fasteners seem to me designed in the first instance to ruin components. Andre Jute Relentless rigour -- Gaius Germanicus This was the tool of the day, and the wrench I still use for pedals with flats. http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/OTAwWDE2MDA=/z/XIwAAOSwrklVAjUm/$_57.JPG Er, excuse my ignorance, but how do you get the closed ring end onto the pedal flats between the crank and the pedal? Or is it the other end, the open wrench, that is 15mm, and the whole thing a monstrously huge tool? It offers plenty of leverage -- and reminds me how happy I am that I don't have to remove/install fixed cups anymore. BTW, there are toothed sockets for the Shimano BBs. http://www.wheelies.co.uk/images/Products/full63684.jpg Yah, I looked into them, and they didn't have the depth required for my application, which wasn't Hollowtech bearings but merely a lockring with a Hollowtech grip pattern on a Bafang BBS01 which you may imagine as a bottom bracket with a tapered axle sticking out of it but on one side only, the motor hanging off the other side of this bottom bracket which is used as the motor hanger. There's a specially made socket available in the aftermarket with enough depth, but it would cost about $220 landed here (if I'm lucky and attract the minimum taxes, fees, import duties, etc). That's a bit rich even for a fulltime tool fondler like me. I have lots of big tools still lying around, including a fair number of headset wrenches. I felt a little play in my threadless headset yesterday. I fixed it with a pocket tool while waiting in my buddy's driveway while he was getting ready to go on a ride. I'm pretty good at guessing at 5Nm. I'm thinking of building a Calder-ish mobile with my headset wrenches. I still have two bikes with normal quill headsets, and my everyday Koranic operates on a threadless to quill conversion to gain 60mm of handlebar height; I hope I remember how to get it out of the n'lock stem (which unlocks the steerer tube from the handlebars) if I ever need to disassemble it, or the bike will be destroyed. You can't have my headset spanners (two huge, two touring but still big by modern standards) for your mobile. My current hex pedal wrench. http://www.parktool.com/product/8mm-hex-tool-ht-8 I have something similar in a black box of torx and hex T spanners which are so useful that it is always the first thing I pick up, and sometimes I don't even open the large wheeled pilot's case which holds all the tools to do all the jobs I've ever tackled or at least contemplated doing on my current bikes. Only six fasteners on my bike which are not either hex or torx, and for them I have special open spanner, 8x10mm, a tiny bike-specific forging for a kit Draper sold many years ago that went off the market because it was too pricey for their usual clientele. A common workalike for people who want one like mine is to buy a small 8x10 brake spanner from the motor factors and simply grind it flatter and lighter. So my onbike emergency toolkit consists of a 68gr Topeak Tool Bar (it looks like a toy you carry on your keyring but it is a very serious tool, no longer made; if I see one I will buy a spare), which holds all the hex and torx bits I could require, and a small 8x10mm open-ended spanner for all other nuts. That's it. The Tool Bar incorporates aluminium tyre levers but I have never used them. Except for headset presses, which are now used for BB 30 bearings, you don't need much in the way of big tools unless you're doing frame prep/repair. I like tools but a cyclist with a life who starts eyeing headset presses needs psychiatric help more than another tool. Andre Jute Toolfondler Made myself a tool to press in press fit BB bearings cups. http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-H4...G_2324-001.JPG Do I need psychiatric help? That's nice. I have something similar but problematic because the center holes in the plates for pressing the bearings are not sized to my through bolt. They're sized for a headset press, which makes pressing kludgy. I might get one of Park's cheap presses -assuming I stick with BB30. http://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...ls.php?id=854z -- Jay Beattie. |
#7
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Right size wrenches/spanners, the proper nuts, and wrenches designed to ruin components
jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, May 17, 2015 at 11:17:51 AM UTC-7, Lou Holtman wrote: Andre Jute wrote: On Sunday, May 17, 2015 at 4:46:35 PM UTC+1, jbeattie wrote: On Sunday, May 17, 2015 at 7:53:38 AM UTC-7, Andre Jute wrote: On Sunday, May 17, 2015 at 3:08:22 PM UTC+1, John B. wrote to Jeff Liebermann: But over torqueing? Pedals take, I believe, a 15 MM wrench. A common 15 MM wrench (or the ones in my tool chest) measure about 6 inches over all, say 5.5 inches from the center of the 15mm fastener to the free end of the wrench. I suggest that it would take a pretty husky bloke to strip the threads out of the aluminum crank with a wrench of that size. Purpose-designed pedal spanners are about 12 inches long, at least mine is. It came in a German toolkit, so I presume it was correctly designed for the job. However, what I find very odd is that the articulated C-spanner from the same kit is about six inches long, maybe only five, and yet is intended to pull up a bottom bracket lockring to 30-40Nm. That's clearly impossible unless you're a 900 pound gorilla with your own fulltime personal physiotherapist. The other day, when for the first time I wanted to use it (never having had a bottom bracket or any other ocmponent with that format lock), I checked my other toolkits and without exception the hooked-C spanner was 5-7inches long, nothing at all like the length required. I imagine the spsnner was originally designed to do something much less forceful in the sprocket cluster (too long ago for me to remember -- I haven't had anything except internal hub gearboxes on any of my bikes for around twenty years now), and only later applied to bottom brackets... A newly bought X-Tools wrench for the Shimano Hollowtech II BB locking is about 10 inches long and comfortably shaped and padded, but I still doubt that even with my 195 pounds of rippling muscle the 35Nm spec demanded by the component was achieved. I really liked the older Shimano model of BB lockring, fastened by a toothed socket, driven by a half-inch bar or ratchet that you could stand up on, much better. These newfangled levers that fit loosely around fasteners seem to me designed in the first instance to ruin components. Andre Jute Relentless rigour -- Gaius Germanicus This was the tool of the day, and the wrench I still use for pedals with flats. http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/OTAwWDE2MDA=/z/XIwAAOSwrklVAjUm/$_57.JPG Er, excuse my ignorance, but how do you get the closed ring end onto the pedal flats between the crank and the pedal? Or is it the other end, the open wrench, that is 15mm, and the whole thing a monstrously huge tool? It offers plenty of leverage -- and reminds me how happy I am that I don't have to remove/install fixed cups anymore. BTW, there are toothed sockets for the Shimano BBs. http://www.wheelies.co.uk/images/Products/full63684.jpg Yah, I looked into them, and they didn't have the depth required for my application, which wasn't Hollowtech bearings but merely a lockring with a Hollowtech grip pattern on a Bafang BBS01 which you may imagine as a bottom bracket with a tapered axle sticking out of it but on one side only, the motor hanging off the other side of this bottom bracket which is used as the motor hanger. There's a specially made socket available in the aftermarket with enough depth, but it would cost about $220 landed here (if I'm lucky and attract the minimum taxes, fees, import duties, etc). That's a bit rich even for a fulltime tool fondler like me. I have lots of big tools still lying around, including a fair number of headset wrenches. I felt a little play in my threadless headset yesterday. I fixed it with a pocket tool while waiting in my buddy's driveway while he was getting ready to go on a ride. I'm pretty good at guessing at 5Nm. I'm thinking of building a Calder-ish mobile with my headset wrenches. I still have two bikes with normal quill headsets, and my everyday Koranic operates on a threadless to quill conversion to gain 60mm of handlebar height; I hope I remember how to get it out of the n'lock stem (which unlocks the steerer tube from the handlebars) if I ever need to disassemble it, or the bike will be destroyed. You can't have my headset spanners (two huge, two touring but still big by modern standards) for your mobile. My current hex pedal wrench. http://www.parktool.com/product/8mm-hex-tool-ht-8 I have something similar in a black box of torx and hex T spanners which are so useful that it is always the first thing I pick up, and sometimes I don't even open the large wheeled pilot's case which holds all the tools to do all the jobs I've ever tackled or at least contemplated doing on my current bikes. Only six fasteners on my bike which are not either hex or torx, and for them I have special open spanner, 8x10mm, a tiny bike-specific forging for a kit Draper sold many years ago that went off the market because it was too pricey for their usual clientele. A common workalike for people who want one like mine is to buy a small 8x10 brake spanner from the motor factors and simply grind it flatter and lighter. So my onbike emergency toolkit consists of a 68gr Topeak Tool Bar (it looks like a toy you carry on your keyring but it is a very serious tool, no longer made; if I see one I will buy a spare), which holds all the hex and torx bits I could require, and a small 8x10mm open-ended spanner for all other nuts. That's it. The Tool Bar incorporates aluminium tyre levers but I have never used them. Except for headset presses, which are now used for BB 30 bearings, you don't need much in the way of big tools unless you're doing frame prep/repair. I like tools but a cyclist with a life who starts eyeing headset presses needs psychiatric help more than another tool. Andre Jute Toolfondler Made myself a tool to press in press fit BB bearings cups. http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-H4...G_2324-001.JPG Do I need psychiatric help? That's nice. I have something similar but problematic because the center holes in the plates for pressing the bearings are not sized to my through bolt. They're sized for a headset press, which makes pressing kludgy. I might get one of Park's cheap presses -assuming I stick with BB30. http://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...ils.php?idÂ…4z -- Jay Beattie. Yes, with press fit it is important to keep the tool centered and aligned therefor the right dimension is important and/or convenient. In basic the tool is quite simple. If you have access to a lathe, material and paid attention in engineering class it is a 20 minute job to make one yourself. For me it was faster to do that than to order one. -- Lou |
#8
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Right size wrenches/spanners, the proper nuts, and wrenches designedto ruin components
On 5/17/2015 3:26 PM, Lou Holtman wrote:
Yes, with press fit it is important to keep the tool centered and aligned therefor the right dimension is important and/or convenient. In basic the tool is quite simple. If you have access to a lathe, material and paid attention in engineering class it is a 20 minute job to make one yourself. For me it was faster to do that than to order one. Same for me. Except I didn't need a lathe to make mine. It depends on what's in one's junk box, I suppose. -- - Frank Krygowski |
#9
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Right size wrenches/spanners, the proper nuts, and wrenchesdesigned to ruin components
https://goo.gl/lTeKVG of obsolete tools, 2 oblongs filed to drop into head tube for tapping the old cups out ditto Parks cone wrenches.... the filed down to snackon headset wrenches... |
#10
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Right size wrenches/spanners, the proper nuts, and wrenchesdesigned to ruin components
On Sunday, May 17, 2015 at 7:17:51 PM UTC+1, Lou Holtman wrote:
Andre Jute wrote: On Sunday, May 17, 2015 at 4:46:35 PM UTC+1, jbeattie wrote: On Sunday, May 17, 2015 at 7:53:38 AM UTC-7, Andre Jute wrote: On Sunday, May 17, 2015 at 3:08:22 PM UTC+1, John B. wrote to Jeff Liebermann: But over torqueing? Pedals take, I believe, a 15 MM wrench. A common 15 MM wrench (or the ones in my tool chest) measure about 6 inches over all, say 5.5 inches from the center of the 15mm fastener to the free end of the wrench. I suggest that it would take a pretty husky bloke to strip the threads out of the aluminum crank with a wrench of that size. Purpose-designed pedal spanners are about 12 inches long, at least mine is. It came in a German toolkit, so I presume it was correctly designed for the job. However, what I find very odd is that the articulated C-spanner from the same kit is about six inches long, maybe only five, and yet is intended to pull up a bottom bracket lockring to 30-40Nm. That's clearly impossible unless you're a 900 pound gorilla with your own fulltime personal physiotherapist. The other day, when for the first time I wanted to use it (never having had a bottom bracket or any other ocmponent with that format lock), I checked my other toolkits and without exception the hooked-C spanner was 5-7inches long, nothing at all like the length required. I imagine the spsnner was originally designed to do something much less forceful in the sprocket cluster (too long ago for me to remember -- I haven't had anything except internal hub gearboxes on any of my bikes for around twenty years now), and only later applied to bottom brackets... A newly bought X-Tools wrench for the Shimano Hollowtech II BB locking is about 10 inches long and comfortably shaped and padded, but I still doubt that even with my 195 pounds of rippling muscle the 35Nm spec demanded by the component was achieved. I really liked the older Shimano model of BB lockring, fastened by a toothed socket, driven by a half-inch bar or ratchet that you could stand up on, much better. These newfangled levers that fit loosely around fasteners seem to me designed in the first instance to ruin components. Andre Jute Relentless rigour -- Gaius Germanicus This was the tool of the day, and the wrench I still use for pedals with flats. http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/OTAwWDE2MDA=/z/XIwAAOSwrklVAjUm/$_57.JPG Er, excuse my ignorance, but how do you get the closed ring end onto the pedal flats between the crank and the pedal? Or is it the other end, the open wrench, that is 15mm, and the whole thing a monstrously huge tool? It offers plenty of leverage -- and reminds me how happy I am that I don't have to remove/install fixed cups anymore. BTW, there are toothed sockets for the Shimano BBs. http://www.wheelies.co.uk/images/Products/full63684.jpg Yah, I looked into them, and they didn't have the depth required for my application, which wasn't Hollowtech bearings but merely a lockring with a Hollowtech grip pattern on a Bafang BBS01 which you may imagine as a bottom bracket with a tapered axle sticking out of it but on one side only, the motor hanging off the other side of this bottom bracket which is used as the motor hanger. There's a specially made socket available in the aftermarket with enough depth, but it would cost about $220 landed here (if I'm lucky and attract the minimum taxes, fees, import duties, etc). That's a bit rich even for a fulltime tool fondler like me. I have lots of big tools still lying around, including a fair number of headset wrenches. I felt a little play in my threadless headset yesterday. I fixed it with a pocket tool while waiting in my buddy's driveway while he was getting ready to go on a ride. I'm pretty good at guessing at 5Nm. I'm thinking of building a Calder-ish mobile with my headset wrenches. I still have two bikes with normal quill headsets, and my everyday Koranic operates on a threadless to quill conversion to gain 60mm of handlebar height; I hope I remember how to get it out of the n'lock stem (which unlocks the steerer tube from the handlebars) if I ever need to disassemble it, or the bike will be destroyed. You can't have my headset spanners (two huge, two touring but still big by modern standards) for your mobile. My current hex pedal wrench. http://www.parktool.com/product/8mm-hex-tool-ht-8 I have something similar in a black box of torx and hex T spanners which are so useful that it is always the first thing I pick up, and sometimes I don't even open the large wheeled pilot's case which holds all the tools to do all the jobs I've ever tackled or at least contemplated doing on my current bikes. Only six fasteners on my bike which are not either hex or torx, and for them I have special open spanner, 8x10mm, a tiny bike-specific forging for a kit Draper sold many years ago that went off the market because it was too pricey for their usual clientele. A common workalike for people who want one like mine is to buy a small 8x10 brake spanner from the motor factors and simply grind it flatter and lighter. So my onbike emergency toolkit consists of a 68gr Topeak Tool Bar (it looks like a toy you carry on your keyring but it is a very serious tool, no longer made; if I see one I will buy a spare), which holds all the hex and torx bits I could require, and a small 8x10mm open-ended spanner for all other nuts. That's it. The Tool Bar incorporates aluminium tyre levers but I have never used them. Except for headset presses, which are now used for BB 30 bearings, you don't need much in the way of big tools unless you're doing frame prep/repair. I like tools but a cyclist with a life who starts eyeing headset presses needs psychiatric help more than another tool. Andre Jute Toolfondler Made myself a tool to press in press fit BB bearings cups. http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-H4...G_2324-001.JPG Do I need psychiatric help? -- Lou Nope. Engineering is your life, so why not make a custom press in less time than it would take to order one? Andre Jute |
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