RR: Copper Canyon, Mexico (Very Long)

WARNING: This is very long, but I think it is important to add culture
to the report. You can read it here or with the pictures in-line at
http://tinyurl.com/3l22f
-----

It's funny how most American's view Mexico. It's always a vision of the
border towns that taint our view of what a country can show the world.
Once you reach the interior, one is opened to a unique culture full of
vibrant friendly people. Though they do not have much, it doesn't seem
to bother them and they make the most with what they do have.

This is my adventure report. Yes, it contains mountain biking but it
also contains history, culture, and an understanding for what makes us
all unique in this world. Beauty is everywhere in Mexico. It is in the
hills, valleys, homes, and people. It is the innocence of the children,
who have not been spoiled by video games or kept inside by predators.
It is the miles of trails cut by the indigenous tribes who to this day
use them as their roadways to each village.

The Copper Canyon is a general name used to describe an area of Mexico
that is actually five different canyons branching out like fingers on a
hand. These canyons were formed millions of years ago by tectonic and
water activities. Unlike the Grand Canyon, the Copper Canyon is a lush
green semi-tropical environment filled with a variety of plants ranging
from pine trees to cacti and a variety of wildlife. The Canyons are
home to the Tahamara Indians. Until the discovery of Silver in the late
1800's, they were so remote that they were able to preserve their
heritage.

The trip was run by Western Spirit. It is actually their first branded
trip to this location. Our guides Scott and his wife Rachel were
fantastic hosts who spoke Spanish and had a good knowledge of the area.
They were also not afraid to drive on the crazy roads of Mexico. I am
traveling with a JAR club buddy, Roger. There were eight strangers who
we quickly got acquainted to.

Day 1

It's not an easy task to get to the Copper Canyon. It took me a day to
fly into El Paso, Texas we're we spend the night. First thing in the
morning, we load up the van and I'm glad to see my bike has made the
journey.

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We head out across the border and arrive at Mexican immigration. My
previous experience with Mexico was 13 years ago in Cancun. This isn't
Cancun and it took an hour and a half to get through here!

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A stop to gas up the van nets this lovely little food stand. Do I dare
attempt to eat something from here? After deciding that I have not even
ridden a foot yet, I leave the possible belly busting to later in the week.

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Our destination today, is Creel. Creel is located 7450 feet above the
canyon. I begin to feel the altitude and I'm glad I'll have a day to
adjust. On the way into town, we follow this Mexican version of a horse
trailer. In this case it's a burro standing in a pickup. We all
thought it was quite amusing and would certainly lead to legal problems
in the states.

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We have a nice dinner at the hotel and get a good night's sleep for
tomorrow's ride which is supposed to have some nice technical singletrack.

Day 2

We get ready to head out on today's ride and are greeted by some future
MTBers. There's something about shiny expensive mountain bikes that
seem to grab everyone's attention. I brought a whole bunch of stickers
with me which go over well with this bunch.

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We are introduced to our Tahamara local guide, Enrice. Then up the
hills we go. Lot's of loose brittle lava rock on this climb to keep us
on the edge. I'm huffing my lungs out because of the altitude and guild
isn't even breaking a sweat. The Tahamara are known for their
remarkable endurance. They are some of the greatest runners in the
world. Some can run a hundred miles in one shot! Enrice has incredible
stamina and he's not a bad mountain biker either. He's one the MTB race
that is held here.

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At the top we get a great view of Creel.

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These trails are used by humans, burros, cattle, dogs, chickens, and
horses. They all live and die here. I'm hoping this is not a sign of
how hard things are going to get!

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Technical is the nature of the day. Enrice climbs these carved stairs,
the rest of us opt for the left line. I take my share of spills here,
but it's all good!

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Enrice is a very accomplished rider. He is only 25, one of the best in
the area, and serves as a guide for other tour operators as well. The
Santa Cruz Superlight he is riding was given to him by one of the
Western Spirit guides for $350. That may seem cheap to us, but it's a
lot of Pesos for him! He was jumping like a kid in a candy store when
they gave it to him. He was riding a cheap hardtail before that. He's
still learning English, but it's actually fun to speak Spanglish to him
with a little sign language.

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The bikes take a rest and we look out over the valley.

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Now it's time to move down into the Valley of the Monks. This is a
beautiful area named after the rock formations which look like monks
standing in a line. It's a nice technical descent to the fields below.

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We stop to ask the permission of a Tahamara women to ride through her
field and I snap a quick picture. They are very shy people who usually
turn away from the camera.

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We reach the valley of the monks where the van is waiting with lunch.

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After lunch we head down to Lake Arareco. It's a pleasant well
maintained park area. Usually it's crystal blue, but some recent rain
has mucked it up a bit.

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We then ride some non-technical singletrack through fields to Mission
San Ignacio which was built in the 1600's.

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More technical singletrack up the hills and then back down to the hotel
through this steep and loose downhill chute.

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Back in town we have dinner at a local restaurant and check out some of
the stores.

Day 3

Quiet in the town this morning as we get ready for a huge day.

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Today we ride down into the Batopilas canyon. We load up the van and
drive to our launching point. Off the main paved road we slowly
navigate the van and trailer until a big enough clearing.

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Then it's the beginning of our 6000' drop into the canyon. We ride the
loose dirt road to a small store where we will wait for the Van to catch
up and leave the trailer. This is because it will get very steep from
here on in and the Van will have a hard enough time on it's own.

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The owner's children come out to greet us while dad heads out to tend
the field in traditional Tahamara dress.

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The bikes take a rest while I buy three ice cold Coca-Colas.

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We head off again and the road becomes looser and steeper. Too fast and
you can easily wipe out, as some of us did (not me). The views from up
here are breathless. And a look down shows us the road that lies ahead.

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All along this road are little shrines. They are there for those who
drive trucks up and down this treacherous exposed one lane road. At
night they light candles to pray for safe passage.

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Our Midway destination on this 32 mile mostly downhill ride is the
bridge that you can barely make out in this picture.

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This is perfect terrain for the Titus, but too much speed around these
switchbacks could send one plummeting.

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My arms are beginning to feel the burn and we stop for everyone to catch
some views and a group shot.

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I think the burro (donkey) must be the Mexican national animal. They
are all over the place and very tame. Here's a family of eey-ores along
the way.

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Finally, after seventeen miles straight down, we reach the bridge and
take a dip in the Rio Batopilas. The water is very cold, but so refreshing!

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The next stop is our hotel, just 15 miles away. Although mostly
downhill, there are some steep climbs interspersed along the way.

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The first of a few suspension bridges we will see along the way. Some
of them we will even walk across. Yes, they swing side to side!

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Finally! We reach Magarita's La Hacienda in Batopilas. It is a
magnificent hotel restored from the old Alex Sheppard silver mine ruins.
The rooms were huge with vaulted ceilings and a shower that could fit
my bike! We sit on the patio and have Cervesa's and a Coke for me
before a wonderful homemade dinner.

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Day 4

Today is billed as an easy day. After yesterdays long and technical
ride, it's a good thing. We ride into the town of Batopilas. It's a
very quaint town of 1150 and they are slowly overhauling it. They are
putting pavers in the roads and fixing up buildings. Obviously, the
tourism money is starting to kick in. It looks very nice!

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Yet another suspension bridge to hang around on!

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We then head on up the road to another old mission. This is the "Lost
Cathedral" of Satevo. The mystery is that it pre-dates the town and no
one knows how it got there or who was responsible for it.

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Once again we are greeted by children and stickers are handed out to
all. One of the kids digs two holes in the sand a few feet a part, then
finds two small flat rocks, and a game of Mexican horseshoes begins. We
spend quite a while here talking and playing with the children.

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We ride out of this particular area and back into town for lunch on the
porch of someones house. Later I am told it is a restaurant, but I
certainly didn't see a sign. The food was very good (soup and salad
with fresh tortillas) and freshly prepared on a wood burning stove.

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On hour way to visit the grand old hacienda ruins, we run into this
Tahamara native dressed in full regalia and resting on some rocks. They
are very interesting dressers. The outfit consists of a loin cloth,
loose blousy shirt, cowboy hat, and sandals made out of old tires glued
to a piece of leather and secured with leather string to the foot.

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Batopilas was "discovered" in the 1800's when Alex Sheppard, an American
moved down there to open up a silver mine. It was very productive for
many years. He loved the area so much he moved his entire family down
there and eventually died there. His grand children still run a
foundation which is raising money to restore the ruins of the Hacienda
he lived and ran the company from.

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Our "museum" guide points out four spots on the floor which were the
footings of a pool table. We were embarrassed to ask how old he was,
but he told us he saw the mine working in 1935.

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A four seat throne room!

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The rest of the day is spent goofing off and walking around town. I try
my hand at a little free climbing. I think I'll stick to biking.

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A silver mine shaft next to our hotel. It smelled pretty bad, so I
didn't venture any further.

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Day 5

We cross the river, go through town, and begin traversing some very
technical singletrack on our way to the town of Cerro Colorado in an
adjoining canyon. This is the toughest trail we've ridden so far, but
lots of fun!

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We'll have to do a few river crossings on this trail. At first I was
hesitant to get my shoes wet for the rest of the trip, but the heat of
day convinced me that the refreshing coolness of the river was worth it.
At one point I stood in the river for ten minutes.

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There was even some exposure to scare the crap out of me as it normally
does.

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It was an amazing trail built on top of and next to an aqueduct! We
finally reach the town and here come the kids! Those darn shiny bikes
again! Although the stickers certainly were a hit, the item most
requested was not money or candy. Pencils would have made the biggest
splash. If only I had known that, I would have brought a crate of them.
My kids go though a pencil a day. These kids want to learn and the
barest necessity of education is not available to them.

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We eat lunch at a little shop here and then leave the bikes for a walk
across a suspension bridge to the old silver grinder. Water powered
huge boulders which smashed the rocks that were taken out of the mine.
Then mercury was used to leach the silver from the dust. This mill is
still functional when the water level is higher.

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In other parts of Mexico and most definitely in the states, one would
have to worry about leaving a $4000 bike alone. No need to worry when
guard pig is on duty! She wasn't letting anyone near the bikes, not
even the owners.

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We cross the river for some more single track and for the first time, we
get lost. However, not before several miles of rocky technical goodness
which causes me to OTB two times.

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The next hour is spent traversing mounds of foot wide ankle breaking
river rocks until we get back to the trail. When we finally get back on
track, I nearly step on this interesting group of insects. These a leaf
cutter ants. They actually cut leaves and carry them back to their
nests. I've seen them on TV, and now I get to see them up close!

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We finish up the day with more technical goodness back to the hotel. I
crash pretty hard at one point turning heads with the loud thud and
putting a nice bruise on my thigh.

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Day 6

It's time to leave the canyon. This means a 6000' climb out. We are
given a little over three hours to get as far as we can. The idea is to
climb until we rich the spot where we left the trailer. I'm psyched and
head out. I reach the bridge in very good time. At first I thought I
would just save my energy and wait for the van, but I'm feeling pretty
good so I start heading up the switch backs. At one point a truck with
a few Americans stop me. It's reporters from the LA Times doing a story
on mountain biking in Copper Canyon. They ask me a whole bunch of
questions, take a few pics, and continue on. It should be in the
outdoors section around the end of March.

I am trying my best now, but I'm getting tired. This is a long steep
climb. My new goal is to reach a restaurant about half way between the
bridge and the trailer. I hear an engine coming up the trail and try to
move faster. I look over my shoulder and there is the van, so I attempt
to sprint uphill. Yeah, right! The van catches me about one mile from
the restaurant. We pick up two more just a short distance further
leaving only one other attempting this foolish feat. Kerron, is a
Western Spirit guide on vacation for this trip. He's based in Moab and
a very strong XC rider. We catch up to him only 1.5 miles from the
trailer. No one wants him to quit so we ride by. Shortly after we stop
for the trailer, he rides in.

After hooking up the trailer, we head for tonight lodge in Cusarare
Canyon. There's no electricity and the potbelly stove is real cool,
except when it goes out at 3:00 AM and leaves us with no heat.

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After dumping our stuff in the room we head two miles down the road to a
museum and another Mission.

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At dinner, we are treated to a father and son team playing some great
Mexican tunes by the fire.

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A great way to end a very long day of riding!

Day 7

Today is our last day of riding and what is supposed to be another
technical trail. We will ride from our lodge in Cusarare back into
Creel. First we check out the local waterfall and some even try to ride
across it.

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Then it's through some rocky fields and into a huge lava slickrock
playground. I didn't take too many photos of it because I was having
way too much fun! Lot's of one and two foot dropoffs with narrow
passages between rocks and mostly downhill. It's the kind of trail that
really beats you up. Too much fun!

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We're so tired after playing in the slickrock that we roadie it back in
a paceline into town. Unlike road bikers, we looked pretty cool all
mismatched with camelbacks on big bikes!

Back at the hotel, the smiles across our faces show the delight we had
all week. However, in the back of our minds we know it is time to leave
this wonderful place. We're tired as we load up the van the next
morning and bid a find farewell to the terrain, people, and culture that
make this place so special.

--
o-o-o-o Ride-A-Lot o-o-o-o
www.schnauzers.ws

Ride-A-Lot wrote:
Enrice is a very accomplished rider. He is only 25, one of the best
in
the area, and serves as a guide for other tour operators as well.
The
Santa Cruz Superlight he is riding was given to him by one of the
Western Spirit guides for $350.


humongous snip

No wonder Mexico is ****ed off at us. First, gabachos can't seem to
spell Enrique (Henry) correctly and then they get ripped off by being
sold a santa crud for over twice what it is worth. I'd be afraid to go
down there for fear of retribution when Hank's bike breaks.

Very scenic, but not worth ignoring a State Department travel warning.

JD happy in the good 'ol USA

JD wrote:
Ride-A-Lot wrote:

Enrice is a very accomplished rider. He is only 25, one of the best

in

the area, and serves as a guide for other tour operators as well.

The

Santa Cruz Superlight he is riding was given to him by one of the
Western Spirit guides for $350.



humongous snip

No wonder Mexico is ****ed off at us. First, gabachos can't seem to
spell Enrique (Henry) correctly and then they get ripped off by being
sold a santa crud for over twice what it is worth. I'd be afraid to go
down there for fear of retribution when Hank's bike breaks.

Very scenic, but not worth ignoring a State Department travel warning.

JD happy in the good 'ol USA


LOL! I had no idea it translated to Henry. I changed in on my Website,
thanks. I kept mentioning to my riding buddy about the Santa Crud.
He's a rough rider, so I'm sure it will break (or at least the RockSux
SID). He was doing some trials moves on it and all the while I'm
thinking, "if only JD was here to see this".

I didn't know there was a travel warning in effect. To be honest I felt
more safe there, then here in Filthadelphia.

--
o-o-o-o Ride-A-Lot o-o-o-o
www.schnauzers.ws

Ride-A-Lot wrote:
JD wrote:
Ride-A-Lot wrote:

Enrice is a very accomplished rider. He is only 25, one of the
best

in

the area, and serves as a guide for other tour operators as well.

The

Santa Cruz Superlight he is riding was given to him by one of the
Western Spirit guides for $350.



humongous snip

No wonder Mexico is ****ed off at us. First, gabachos can't seem
to
spell Enrique (Henry) correctly and then they get ripped off by
being
sold a santa crud for over twice what it is worth. I'd be afraid
to go
down there for fear of retribution when Hank's bike breaks.

Very scenic, but not worth ignoring a State Department travel
warning.

JD happy in the good 'ol USA


LOL! I had no idea it translated to Henry. I changed in on my
Website,
thanks. I kept mentioning to my riding buddy about the Santa Crud.
He's a rough rider, so I'm sure it will break (or at least the
RockSux
SID). He was doing some trials moves on it and all the while I'm
thinking, "if only JD was here to see this".

I didn't know there was a travel warning in effect. To be honest I
felt
more safe there, then here in Filthadelphia.

Travel warnings are listed he

http://travel.state.gov/travel/cis_pa_tw/tw/tw_1764.html

No travel warning for Mexico, but there is a Public Announcement,

http://travel.state.gov/travel/cis_pa_tw/pa/pa_2100.html

"JD" wrote in message
ups.com...

Ride-A-Lot wrote:
Enrice is a very accomplished rider. He is only 25, one of the best
in
the area, and serves as a guide for other tour operators as well.
The
Santa Cruz Superlight he is riding was given to him by one of the
Western Spirit guides for $350.


humongous snip

No wonder Mexico is ****ed off at us. First, gabachos can't seem to
spell Enrique (Henry) correctly and then they get ripped off by being
sold a santa crud for over twice what it is worth. I'd be afraid to go
down there for fear of retribution when Hank's bike breaks.

Very scenic, but not worth ignoring a State Department travel warning.

JD happy in the good 'ol USA


yes, JD. Our Guvrment knows best...bbbwwwaaaahhhaaa

wrote in message
oups.com...

Ride-A-Lot wrote:
JD wrote:
Ride-A-Lot wrote:

Enrice is a very accomplished rider. He is only 25, one of the
best

in

the area, and serves as a guide for other tour operators as well.

The

Santa Cruz Superlight he is riding was given to him by one of the
Western Spirit guides for $350.



humongous snip

No wonder Mexico is ****ed off at us. First, gabachos can't seem
to
spell Enrique (Henry) correctly and then they get ripped off by
being
sold a santa crud for over twice what it is worth. I'd be afraid
to go
down there for fear of retribution when Hank's bike breaks.

Very scenic, but not worth ignoring a State Department travel
warning.

JD happy in the good 'ol USA


LOL! I had no idea it translated to Henry. I changed in on my
Website,
thanks. I kept mentioning to my riding buddy about the Santa Crud.
He's a rough rider, so I'm sure it will break (or at least the
RockSux
SID). He was doing some trials moves on it and all the while I'm
thinking, "if only JD was here to see this".

I didn't know there was a travel warning in effect. To be honest I
felt
more safe there, then here in Filthadelphia.

Travel warnings are listed he

http://travel.state.gov/travel/cis_pa_tw/tw/tw_1764.html

No travel warning for Mexico, but there is a Public Announcement,

http://travel.state.gov/travel/cis_pa_tw/pa/pa_2100.html

Basically what your saying is that, yet again, JD replies to something he
knows nothing about....imagine that...

Ride-A-Lot wrote:
JD wrote:
Ride-A-Lot wrote:

Enrice is a very accomplished rider. He is only 25, one of the
best

in

the area, and serves as a guide for other tour operators as well.

The

Santa Cruz Superlight he is riding was given to him by one of the
Western Spirit guides for $350.



humongous snip

No wonder Mexico is ****ed off at us. First, gabachos can't seem
to
spell Enrique (Henry) correctly and then they get ripped off by
being
sold a santa crud for over twice what it is worth. I'd be afraid
to go
down there for fear of retribution when Hank's bike breaks.

Very scenic, but not worth ignoring a State Department travel
warning.

JD happy in the good 'ol USA


LOL! I had no idea it translated to Henry. I changed in on my
Website,
thanks. I kept mentioning to my riding buddy about the Santa Crud.
He's a rough rider, so I'm sure it will break (or at least the
RockSux
SID). He was doing some trials moves on it and all the while I'm
thinking, "if only JD was here to see this".


Oh man, it has a SAD on it? Double jepoardy. At least it's getting
ridden compared to many of the roofrack decorations in the USA that
have santa crud emblazoned on them.

I didn't know there was a travel warning in effect. To be honest I
felt
more safe there, then here in Filthadelphia.


Mexico = Peligroso right now, especially near border towns like Nuevo
Laredo, Cuidad Juarez, etc.

JD

JD wrote:
Ride-A-Lot wrote:

JD wrote:

Ride-A-Lot wrote:


Enrice is a very accomplished rider. He is only 25, one of the

best

in


the area, and serves as a guide for other tour operators as well.

The


Santa Cruz Superlight he is riding was given to him by one of the
Western Spirit guides for $350.



humongous snip

No wonder Mexico is ****ed off at us. First, gabachos can't seem

to

spell Enrique (Henry) correctly and then they get ripped off by

being

sold a santa crud for over twice what it is worth. I'd be afraid

to go

down there for fear of retribution when Hank's bike breaks.

Very scenic, but not worth ignoring a State Department travel

warning.

JD happy in the good 'ol USA


LOL! I had no idea it translated to Henry. I changed in on my

Website,

thanks. I kept mentioning to my riding buddy about the Santa Crud.
He's a rough rider, so I'm sure it will break (or at least the

RockSux

SID). He was doing some trials moves on it and all the while I'm
thinking, "if only JD was here to see this".



Oh man, it has a SAD on it? Double jepoardy. At least it's getting
ridden compared to many of the roofrack decorations in the USA that
have santa crud emblazoned on them.


I didn't know there was a travel warning in effect. To be honest I

felt

more safe there, then here in Filthadelphia.



Mexico = Peligroso right now, especially near border towns like Nuevo
Laredo, Cuidad Juarez, etc.

JD


Yeah, we came across through Juarez. It's not exactly Beverly Hills.
At the US border guard station we saw quite a few being taken away in cuffs.

--
o-o-o-o Ride-A-Lot o-o-o-o
www.schnauzers.ws

On Mon, 07 Mar 2005 15:14:03 -0800, Dave W wrote:

Very scenic, but not worth ignoring a State Department travel warning.

JD happy in the good 'ol USA


yes, JD. Our Guvrment knows best...bbbwwwaaaahhhaaa


You ever been there. Mexico has always been a risk taking adventure, even
when we would drive down there for a surf trips, you could run into
problems.

And lately, there have been kidnappings and murders long many of the
boarder towns. It is a serious warning... Mexico is a both very beautiful
and hideously ugly at the same time.
--
Slack

"Slack" wrote in message
news:1110340368.bb7cd2c6bce82600e1a3ee08d4c32aaf@t eranews...
On Mon, 07 Mar 2005 15:14:03 -0800, Dave W
wrote:

Very scenic, but not worth ignoring a State Department travel warning.

JD happy in the good 'ol USA


yes, JD. Our Guvrment knows best...bbbwwwaaaahhhaaa


You ever been there. Mexico has always been a risk taking adventure, even
when we would drive down there for a surf trips, you could run into
problems.

And lately, there have been kidnappings and murders long many of the
boarder towns. It is a serious warning... Mexico is a both very beautiful
and hideously ugly at the same time.
--
Slack

Hmm, sounds like Atlanta....

Uh, yeah. I've been there. Almost yearly. My Grandfather was born in Nuevo
Laredo...Now resides in San Antonio...as do the remaining brothers of 8 that
became naturalized after WWII due to thier service for our country...and
where I was born. Wilford Hall....

It's alway's a serious warning for a gringo....never needed my goverment, or
JD to tell me so...neither did you on your midnite runs to TJ, or where ever
I assume...

"Desperado" is not that far off in the streets of ol' mexico these day's I
hear...

Dave (mothers maiden name is Guiterrez!)