Learning to Uni (Aiming for Muni)

I'm planning to learn unicycling with a view to Mountain Unicycling (I
live in the Lake District), I've saved up around 200 pounds and am
planning to buy a unicycle. My question is, should I buy a Nimbus Muni
and learn to Uni on that, or should I get a learner pack from
unicycle.com and save up later for a Muni?

Many Thanks,
Bingo Jesus

(also, what size of unicyle should I get to learn on?)

Many thanks again


--
Bingo Jesus
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you should get the stongest uni you can afford (like theYuni)

if you have your eyes on the trails even before you have learned, there
is nothing stopping you from getting there....actually learning to ride
is the trickiest part..trails are just a little harder to get used to.

If you buy a ****ty 'learner' uni, you will be cursing it when you are
ordering your next one (the one you should get now)

if you end up not liking it, it'll be easier to sell for actual money

edit: if you want to buy a cheapo now to learn on, buy your 'expensive
muni' before you break it, as it would make a great spare (and spares
are always great to let your friends try out, because riding alone is a
lot less fun)


--
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'yea i no allot of mi frends an i r hecka smartr then othr peeple at mi
skool cus we can balense and we can ride farthar then other peeple wich
makes ur bran more exersised an it helps u consentrate an improves ur
mentel stamena' - 1wheelthrilla


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Thanks a lot, hopefullty I'll be able to get an order in this week.


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Bingo Jesus
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Is that The Lake District as in Swallows and Amazons, the Bluebird,
Jennings Bitter, and the smell of burning clutches drifting over the
Roman fort at the top of the pass? or some other Lake District? If the
former, buy a 12 inch wheel with 7 inch cranks.

Joking apart, the basic advice is:

1) Buy cheap, buy twice.
2) But overspecialise too soon and you may regret it.

Buy a good mid range uni you can upgrade, adapt, fettle and wreck. Then
buy the one that reallysuits you.


--
Mikefule - Roland Hope School of Unicycling

Everyone should be fatuous for 15 minutes.
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buy a cheap one. replace everything

buy a decent one. replace things as they break

buy a really expensive one. replace things as they wear (like the tire,
etc...)


--
Sofa - you - pee - dee

'yea i no allot of mi frends an i r hecka smartr then othr peeple at mi
skool cus we can balense and we can ride farthar then other peeple wich
makes ur bran more exersised an it helps u consentrate an improves ur
mentel stamena' - 1wheelthrilla


'Unicycle Product Reviews' (http://tinyurl.com/368h6) *107* reviews on
*72* products

'London Unicycling Club ' (http://www.brianmackenzie.com/LUC/) (London,
Ontario, Canada)


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Get the Nimbus. It's plenty strong and a decent price.


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daino149 - How's it going, Texas?

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http://tinyurl.com/5le9v


Before you know it you'll have four or five unicycles, so why by a poor
quality one to start with?

I have been riding for just less than a year, now level 4 and have 4
unicycle.

JJ


p.s. The most important thing is the seat.


--
fontiminal - Level 3.9 Rider

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Which one is in Derbyshire? Peak or Lake? The other one's Cumbria
right?

If you intend to only do muni get a muni, there's no point in learning
on something you're not going to ride.

But munis aren't the best for indoor or freestyle, so if you intend to
do any of that consider getting a reasonable starter uni. Though I think
as has been mentioned above, one is never enough!!!

I personally went for an OK unicycle and upgraded parts as I went along.
Then repeated several times! That's the great thing with unicycles, a
little purchase can make a big difference and it's very easy to do.

There's more than one style of off-road riding, some people like to go
really big on things drops etc, some plough uphill, some bomb down, log
rides and general XC. These are by no means all the types of thing
people look for on muni rides, nor are they mutually exclusive. A good
24x3 muni with a cotterless hub/crank set will last you a long time on
XC and most trails. For big drops and severe changes in gradient etc a
splined set up is the way to go, as people have snapped axles by
hammering up things.

Cotterless are generally lighter and lighter generally means more
manouverable. Though this doesn't stop some people. You also get more
choice in crank length, but they aren't as strong as the cranks of
splined set ups.

If you think you'll break the uniycle, then just go straight for a nice
splined hub muni, possibly the KH, Onza or Qu-Ax. Please don't ask if
the Onza or KH is better!!! There's been dozens of threads on this
already!

Good luck!


--
one wheeled stallion - Guerilla Unicyclist

OWS

"I'm going to be polite in this whole message except for here.

Idiot." - John Foss


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I've been riding a mere 2 months. I got a reasonably good skinny 20"
which was great to learn on. a week ago I got an Onza 24". great fun but
I find it easier (so far anyway) to hone my skills & try new things on
the 20 which is more nimble, and then transfer them to the Onza.

But if you're going for just one, go straight to the Muni. the reason I
got the Onza is because the 20 was no use at all for the most basic of
trails. and i'll bet you'll be on then as soon as you can ride 50
metres!


--
mikepenton
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Bingo Jesus wrote:
*(I live in the Lake District)*


If you're in the lake district, make sure to get in touch with Cumbria
Muni and Trials, who ride round there a lot.

Their email addresses are on this page
http://cumbria_muni.trials_club.unicyclist.com/

or you could message Aaron from them on here who has the user name
pluto.


If you want an in-between option, buy a nimbus Muni with a 24" wheel and
then buy a cheap 24" slick tyre to use for the learning process. You can
put that on until you've got the hang of riding on smooth concrete and
then put on a proper tyre and start some proper riding. It'd only add a
tenner to the price and you'd end up with a good mid-range muni and a
good learner unicycle in one.

Joe


--
joemarshall - dumb blonde
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