Problems with Ultegra rear shifting

Hi All,

I am having trouble getting my Ultegra 10s rear shifting to work well.

I recently replaced all cables with Dura Ace stainless cables and
housings which improved shifting and braking quite a bit over my
corroded old cables. But I still cannot get the rear shifting to work
as well as I think it should.

I can get either the larger cogs, or the smaller cogs to shift well,
but not both at the same time. I have one wheelset with a new 10s 105
12-25 and another with a new Dura Ace 12-23 and both have the same
problem.

How should I fix this? Is it possible my brifter is gunked up?

Joseph

On Apr 3, 10:17 am, "
wrote:
Hi All,

I am having trouble getting my Ultegra 10s rear shifting to work well.

I recently replaced all cables with Dura Ace stainless cables and
housings which improved shifting and braking quite a bit over my
corroded old cables. But I still cannot get the rear shifting to work
as well as I think it should.

I can get either the larger cogs, or the smaller cogs to shift well,
but not both at the same time. I have one wheelset with a new 10s 105
12-25 and another with a new Dura Ace 12-23 and both have the same
problem.

How should I fix this? Is it possible my brifter is gunked up?

Joseph

I've always had the same issue with Shimano, the upshift on the small
cogs is never clean, and gets worse with chain wear. I attribute it to
cable tension/routing, but never found the fix...none of my campy rigs
have this issue

Wrote:
Hi All,

I am having trouble getting my Ultegra 10s rear shifting to work well.

I recently replaced all cables with Dura Ace stainless cables and
housings which improved shifting and braking quite a bit over my
corroded old cables. But I still cannot get the rear shifting to work
as well as I think it should.

I can get either the larger cogs, or the smaller cogs to shift well,
but not both at the same time. I have one wheelset with a new 10s 105
12-25 and another with a new Dura Ace 12-23 and both have the same
problem.

How should I fix this? Is it possible my brifter is gunked up?

Joseph
Possible that the brifter is "gunked up".
Check out the Park Tool Website:

http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=64


Make su
1. Housing lengths are correct
2. Housing has clean flat ends
3. Proper ferruls are Squarely installed
4. Chain line is correct
5. RD alignment is correct
6. Bottom Bracket guide is clean, smooth, and cable section that
passes is lubicated.
You did the right thing when you replaced the cable and housing.
I have worked on some Shimano 10 speed 105, Ultegra, and Dura Ace.
They all shift fine but are more challenging due to the smaller
tolerances. ANY "excess" friction or alignment issues magnify problems.


--
daveornee

On Apr 4, 12:37*am, daveornee daveornee.37b...@no-
mx.forums.cyclingforums.com wrote:
Wrote:

Hi All,

I am having trouble getting my Ultegra 10s rear shifting to work well.

I recently replaced all cables with Dura Ace stainless cables and
housings which improved shifting and braking quite a bit over my
corroded old cables. But I still cannot get the rear shifting to work
as well as I think it *should.

I can get either the larger cogs, or the smaller cogs to shift well,
but not both at the same time. I have one wheelset with a new 10s 105
12-25 and another with a new Dura Ace 12-23 and both have the same
problem.

How should I fix this? Is it possible my brifter is gunked up?

Joseph

Possible that the brifter is "gunked up".
Check out the Park Tool Website:

http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=64

Make su
1. *Housing lengths are correct
2. *Housing has clean flat ends
3. *Proper ferruls are Squarely installed
4. *Chain line is correct
5. *RD alignment is correct
6. *Bottom Bracket guide is clean, smooth, and cable section that
passes is lubicated.
You did the right thing when you replaced the cable and housing.
I have worked on some Shimano 10 speed 105, Ultegra, and Dura Ace.
They all shift fine but are more challenging due to the smaller
tolerances. *ANY "excess" friction or alignment issues magnify problems.

--
daveornee

I decided to do it from scratch.

Housing lengths were checked and found appropriate.
Ends were checked, and they were flat as I had filed them when
installed.
The housing the goes to the rear derailleur was backwards. According
to Shimano the aluminum end goes into the adjuster barrel. I had it
wrong. I used sandpaper to clean off the rust on the barrel adjuster
and greased it while I was at it.
I replaced the bb guide.
I also looked closely at the chain length. I had used the old school
method of gauging chain length by looking at the clearance from the
jockey wheel when in the small ring and large cog. The Shimano
instructions show a different way, which prompted me to remove 2
links. I also had way too much B tension once the chain was shortened.

It works nicely now. I suspect the chain length and B tension were the
culprits.

Moral of the story: RTFM

Joseph

wrote:


I also looked closely at the chain length. I had used the old school
method of gauging chain length by looking at the clearance from the
jockey wheel when in the small ring and large cog. The Shimano
instructions show a different way,

Joe, how does Shimano do it? I use the big/big ring/cog method, a la
Sheldon. http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html#chain

BC

On Apr 4, 11:04*pm, BCDrums wrote:
wrote:
I also looked closely at the chain length. I had used the old school
method of gauging chain length by looking at the clearance from the
jockey wheel when in the small ring and large cog. The Shimano
instructions show a different way,

Joe, how does Shimano do it? I use the big/big ring/cog method, a la
Sheldon.http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html#chain

BC

They suggest putting the chain on the big ring and small cog and
adjusting the chain length such that the jockey wheels are on a line
perpendicular to the ground. At least that's how the Ultegra docs say
to do it.

I used to figure it by putting the chain on the small ring and small
cog and adjusting length such that the upper jockey wheel was 1-2cm
from the chain where it went from the lower jockey wheel forward to
the chainring.

Joseph