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Removing a stuck adjustable cup (Bottom Bracket)



 
 
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  #11  
Old January 8th 06, 04:17 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
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Default Removing a stuck adjustable cup (Bottom Bracket)


Brian Huntley wrote:
There's no way a pin-wrench is going to be able to budge the supposedly
non-fixed cup (ie left side) on my all-weather commuter bike. I'm
fairly sure the fixed-cup is also immobile, and this is the time of
year I usually replace the bearings (it's an old cup-and-cone style
bb.)

What are my options? I'm thinking I could possible file some flats on
it and apply the big wrench, then replace it, but I seem to recall
these are really hard steel. The pin-wrench holes don't seem to be
deep enough to allow me to stick a punch in one and whale on it with a
mallet. Would a torch help? (It's steel-on-steel, so I'm guessing not.)
Some super-duper penetrating oil?

This is probably this frame's last year (I've said that before), but I
would like to make it last until June at least.


Well, the last time I had this problem, I used a plumber's 1/2" pipe
nipple extractor, on the right hand thread fixed cup of an
Italian-threaded frame. That, after other wrenches, etc., mentioned
above (C Record Aluminum cup that had been serviced several times).
Worked great, using a large adjustable open-end wrench to turn the
extractor. The cup was already history, so no loss. The extractor says
"#7,USA LM Drill, 17/32, Warning Wear Safety Goggles g 01. But maybe
your BB is worth more than the frame? --D-y

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  #12  
Old January 8th 06, 04:55 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
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Default Removing a stuck adjustable cup (Bottom Bracket)

On Sat, 07 Jan 2006 17:39:58 GMT, I wrote:

Of course all this assumes you have a cup-and-cone BB. If you're
dealing with a cartridge BB things get different, but thinking about
it my method would also work for removing a cartridge body.


Silly, silly me. Of course it won't work for removing a cartridge body
since the "fixed cup" side has no wrench flats. Then again, since the
OP was trying to remove an adjustable cup we're obviously dealing with
an old-timie c&c BB.


jeverett3ATearthlinkDOTnet http://home.earthlink.net/~jeverett3
  #16  
Old January 9th 06, 03:39 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
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Default Removing a stuck adjustable cup (Bottom Bracket)

Peter Cole wrote:

Usually adjustable cups aren't too hard to remove after you get the
lockring off. I've had good luck with the "punch and mallet" method. If
you need penetrating oil, try "PB Blaster" -- handy stuff to keep around.


I've found Aero Kroil or regular Kroil to be the most effective
penetrating oil in my experience. YMMV but it seems appropriate in this
situation.
  #17  
Old January 9th 06, 08:41 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
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Default Removing a stuck adjustable cup (Bottom Bracket)

Brian Huntley wrote:
There's no way a pin-wrench is going to be able to budge the supposedly
non-fixed cup (ie left side) on my all-weather commuter bike. I'm
fairly sure the fixed-cup is also immobile, and this is the time of
year I usually replace the bearings (it's an old cup-and-cone style
bb.)

What are my options? I'm thinking I could possible file some flats on
it and apply the big wrench, then replace it, but I seem to recall
these are really hard steel. The pin-wrench holes don't seem to be
deep enough to allow me to stick a punch in one and whale on it with a
mallet. Would a torch help? (It's steel-on-steel, so I'm guessing not.)
Some super-duper penetrating oil?

This is probably this frame's last year (I've said that before), but I
would like to make it last until June at least.


You're on the right path. When we confront rusted steel cups
in steel frames, we remove the lockring, grind flats on the
cup with a disc grinder, fasten a 30 inch adjustable wrench
to the cup with a tool that bolts to the spindle and pull
hard. The vibration from the disc grinder seems to help.

BB cups are good steel and hardened - a file isn't much help.

You run the risk of nicking into the frame when you cut the
flats but except for aesthetic purposes that probably
doesn't matter. Before grinding the left cup, do try a long
wrench bolted to the right cup. For some reason the left
cups installed without grease are usually matched with a
right cup that was never properly tightened.

I did once weld a long piece of steel to a cup but it was
more trouble than it was worth.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971
 




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