Front cracking noise

On 2/14/2019 11:56 AM, Duane wrote:


For myself, I rarely ride at night except when commuting in the fall and
in those cases my usb charged lights seem to be sufficient.Â* I haven't
used a dynamo since trying a bottle dynamo in the 70s.

FWIW, a modern B&M LED headlight works quite well with even an ancient
bottle dynamo.

The bottle may have disadvantages like slightly more drag, somewhat more
noise, vulnerability to getting knocked out of alignment, and possibly
slipping when wet. But in some cases, a bottle dyno can make sense based
on cost (often free) and zero drag when off.

I think the biggest disadvantage of bottle dynamos is that a person
needs a certain amount of mechanical and electrical skill to install
them. Most people posting here can handle it, I'm sure; but for the
typical bike rider, installation is somewhere between frustrating and
impossible.

--
- Frank Krygowski

On Thursday, February 14, 2019 at 6:23:42 AM UTC-8, Tanguy Ortolo wrote:
Rolf Mantel, 2019-02-14 12:04+0100:
Am 14.02.2019 um 11:54 schrieb Tanguy Ortolo:
To me, quick release is a synonym of quick breaking and quick
stealing.

Talking more precisely, you can use the words 'hollow hub', and then
using a hollow hub with Pit-Locks is not a contradiction in terms any more.

Yes, that and other ingenious systems such as gravity lock. These are
excellent, expensive ways to work around the very purpose of the quick
release axle.

Traditional full axles break occasionally, hollow hubs are a lot more
robust.

I do not see how a hollow tube can be more robust than a full axle of
the same external diameter. Anyway, I already broke a couple of axles,
all hollow. Never broke any full axle, so I will keep using these.

--
Tanguy

The noise you were discussing sounded like a broken ball bearing. When this happens it tends to pit the races so there is a very good chance that you won't have a hub worthy of saving. Contrary to Andrew's claim I have never found sealed bearings to be a problem but then I have the tools to remove them.

On 2/14/2019 9:56 AM, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 2/14/2019 9:23 AM, Tanguy Ortolo wrote:

I do not see how a hollow tube can be more robust than a
full axle of
the same external diameter.

It's certainly possible. The fundamental fact is that the
center of a rod or cylinder contributes very little to its
bending strength - or torsional strength, for that matter.
That's partly why hollow tubes are used for bike frames,
handlebars, etc. instead of solid bars.

Add the fact that the hollow axle may be made of stronger
steel than solid one, and it's possible the hollow one is
more robust. Not guaranteed, but possible.


Yes, among other variables.
Classic solid fronts are 8mm, QR 9mm.
Rears 9.5mm and QR 10mm.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On 2/14/2019 10:06 AM, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 2/14/2019 10:57 AM, Duane wrote:
On 14/02/2019 10:48 a.m., Radey Shouman wrote:
Sir Ridesalot writes:

I was commenting on the fact that the dynamo hub was
getting extremely
hard to turn whilst it was on a bicycle being ridden.
The fact is that
not many people would have the means to repair that
tightening whilst
on their ride.

And I was wondering how you would fix that problem on
your non-dynamo
rim, when riding through the back of beyond. The
bearings and seals on
the Shimano dynamo hubs are comparable to, and fail in
the same way, as
the bearings and seals on their non-dynamo hubs.


I think he's talking about having to have a soldering iron
to fix the dynamo.

You fix it Joerg style. You find a piece of flint, strike it
against a steel part of your bicycle, use the resulting
spark to start a fire, get it good and hot while you pry a
nail out of a nearby fence, use a strand of fence wire to
fasten it to a branch for a handle, heat the nail in the
fire, and use the hot nail to fuse the excess solder you've
scraped off a different part of the hub's internals.

Simple.


Advanced would be Thermite made from scavenged beer cans and
fence nails, pulverized between rocks.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

Sir Ridesalot writes:

On Thursday, February 14, 2019 at 11:56:13 AM UTC-5, duane wrote:
On 14/02/2019 11:20 a.m., Radey Shouman wrote:
Duane writes:

On 14/02/2019 10:48 a.m., Radey Shouman wrote:
Sir Ridesalot writes:

On Wednesday, February 13, 2019 at 9:13:09 PM UTC-5, Radey Shouman wrote:
Sir Ridesalot writes:

On Wednesday, February 13, 2019 at 7:28:00 PM UTC-5, Steve Weeks wrote:
On Wednesday, February 13, 2019 at 3:49:50 PM UTC-6, Tanguy
Ortolo wrote:
Well in fact, I will not need to try with another wheel. As
I was riding
home, the noise kept increasing, and at some point, my front wheel
started to slow me with a drag similar to slightly pulling on the
brakes.

That's how my first dynohub failure presented itself. With the wheel
off the ground, it wouldn't even spin a full revolution because of
the friction in the bearings. If you look at the link I posted
before, you will see a step-by-step account of the repair of a
dynohub. It may be that the hub I repaired is similar enough to
yours that you can figure it out. The "Joule I" hub and the Shimano
hub may both be made by Sanyo, in which case some similarity is
likely. The Joule I hub has two sealed cartridge bearings; the
Shimano hub looks like it has one cartridge bearing on the output
side and a cup-and-cone bearing on the non-output side.
You will need soldering equipment, but I doubt there is any
aluminum wire to deal with.
If you are careful, you may be able to expose the solder joint by
carefully prying the superficial parts off (see the link!). I
initially did not do this, and broke the output wire and had to
splice it (also described in the link).
Good luck!

Crikey! I sure wouldn't want a dynamo hub failure like that if I was
riding far from home. I think that's another reason for me to stick to
my external battery pack lights.

How often do you service wheel bearings when riding far from home? Do
you carry a set of cone wrenches with you?

--

I was commenting on the fact that the dynamo hub was getting extremely
hard to turn whilst it was on a bicycle being ridden. The fact is that
not many people would have the means to repair that tightening whilst
on their ride.

And I was wondering how you would fix that problem on your non-dynamo
rim, when riding through the back of beyond. The bearings and seals on
the Shimano dynamo hubs are comparable to, and fail in the same way, as
the bearings and seals on their non-dynamo hubs.


I think he's talking about having to have a soldering iron to fix the
dynamo.

Butane soldering torches are available, but I surely wouldn't want to do
the job on some woods trail. On the other hand, the hub qua hub works
fine even if it's electrically useless. To be completely safe one would
have to carry a spare battery light; but to be completely safe with a
battery light one would have to carry a spare battery light.



SRA can respond. I was just trying to clarify as it seemed to be
required. g

For myself, I rarely ride at night except when commuting in the fall and
in those cases my usb charged lights seem to be sufficient. I haven't
used a dynamo since trying a bottle dynamo in the 70s.

For MY NEEDS dynamo lights just don't cut it. #1. I sometimes ride a
different bike at night and a dynamo hub can't be switched easily
between bikes. I can carry a couple of spare batteries if I want to
and with those I'm good for a couple of all night rides even in the
long winter nights. #2. In the advent of a bent wheel I can use any
wheel as a replacement. #3. I don't like the low light output of
dynamo hubs at low speed and #4. I don't like the idea that trying to
repair a dynamo hub could render it useless for providing power. I
also like the idea that I can put a battery inside my clothing thereby
keeping it warm in winter and that a battery light gives me FULL
illumination even when stopped or on foot.

No one, least of all me, is trying to convince you to use a dynamo hub,
or make you feel bad for not using one.

Back in the days of unsealed hubs and bottom brackets i did carry a
pair of short cone wrenches and the two tuning fork like tools that
were made for bottom brackets. Thus I COULD service my cones/hubs and
or bottom bracket on tour if needed.

I have never traveled anywhere on a bike prepared for hub service, so
you're one up on me. Did you carry grease and spare balls? Cleaning
solvent?

If a person wants to use a dynamo hub that's fine but ass with many
other things what's good for one person may NOT be what another person
needs.

If one were to start a round the world, night-time only tour I believe a
Shimano dynamo hub would be a reasonable choice, although there are
others more expensive and quite possibly more reliable. Before
beginning, I would suggest fixing the known weak spot -- the aluminum
wire that is susceptible to work hardening during maintenance.

It's a little sad that Shimano didn't fix this themselves. I'm sure
someone made an engineering calculation that said it wasn't worth the
money just to please that tiny fraction of their potential customers
that spend hours debating such things.

Most end users

(a) Don't actually select the hub (they buy a bike or a wheel).

(b) Don't service the hub even once during the life of the wheel.

(c) If they do, they don't service the hub themselves (if the mechanic
says the hub is worn out and can't be serviced, hey, that's life).

--

AMuzi writes:

On 2/14/2019 10:06 AM, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 2/14/2019 10:57 AM, Duane wrote:
On 14/02/2019 10:48 a.m., Radey Shouman wrote:
Sir Ridesalot writes:

I was commenting on the fact that the dynamo hub was
getting extremely
hard to turn whilst it was on a bicycle being ridden.
The fact is that
not many people would have the means to repair that
tightening whilst
on their ride.

And I was wondering how you would fix that problem on
your non-dynamo
rim, when riding through the back of beyond. The
bearings and seals on
the Shimano dynamo hubs are comparable to, and fail in
the same way, as
the bearings and seals on their non-dynamo hubs.


I think he's talking about having to have a soldering iron
to fix the dynamo.

You fix it Joerg style. You find a piece of flint, strike it
against a steel part of your bicycle, use the resulting
spark to start a fire, get it good and hot while you pry a
nail out of a nearby fence, use a strand of fence wire to
fasten it to a branch for a handle, heat the nail in the
fire, and use the hot nail to fuse the excess solder you've
scraped off a different part of the hub's internals.

Simple.


Advanced would be Thermite made from scavenged beer cans and fence
nails, pulverized between rocks.

I'll shake the hand of any man that can light thermite with a flint and
steel.

--

On 2/14/2019 1:37 PM, Radey Shouman wrote:
Sir Ridesalot writes:

For MY NEEDS dynamo lights just don't cut it.

No one, least of all me, is trying to convince you to use a dynamo hub,
or make you feel bad for not using one.

+1


--
- Frank Krygowski

On 2/14/2019 12:41 PM, wrote:


The noise you were discussing sounded like a broken ball bearing.

I remember seeing a friend's bearing ball (in his pedal) that broke
cleanly in two.

I'm amazed that it's possible, but it obviously happens.


--
- Frank Krygowski

On 2/14/2019 1:42 PM, Radey Shouman wrote:
AMuzi writes:

On 2/14/2019 10:06 AM, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 2/14/2019 10:57 AM, Duane wrote:
On 14/02/2019 10:48 a.m., Radey Shouman wrote:
Sir Ridesalot writes:

I was commenting on the fact that the dynamo hub was
getting extremely
hard to turn whilst it was on a bicycle being ridden.
The fact is that
not many people would have the means to repair that
tightening whilst
on their ride.

And I was wondering how you would fix that problem on
your non-dynamo
rim, when riding through the back of beyond. The
bearings and seals on
the Shimano dynamo hubs are comparable to, and fail in
the same way, as
the bearings and seals on their non-dynamo hubs.


I think he's talking about having to have a soldering iron
to fix the dynamo.

You fix it Joerg style. You find a piece of flint, strike it
against a steel part of your bicycle, use the resulting
spark to start a fire, get it good and hot while you pry a
nail out of a nearby fence, use a strand of fence wire to
fasten it to a branch for a handle, heat the nail in the
fire, and use the hot nail to fuse the excess solder you've
scraped off a different part of the hub's internals.

Simple.


Advanced would be Thermite made from scavenged beer cans and fence
nails, pulverized between rocks.

I'll shake the hand of any man that can light thermite with a flint and
steel.

My thoughts exactly!



--
- Frank Krygowski

Frank Krygowski writes:

On 2/14/2019 1:42 PM, Radey Shouman wrote:
AMuzi writes:

On 2/14/2019 10:06 AM, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 2/14/2019 10:57 AM, Duane wrote:
On 14/02/2019 10:48 a.m., Radey Shouman wrote:
Sir Ridesalot writes:

I was commenting on the fact that the dynamo hub was
getting extremely
hard to turn whilst it was on a bicycle being ridden.
The fact is that
not many people would have the means to repair that
tightening whilst
on their ride.

And I was wondering how you would fix that problem on
your non-dynamo
rim, when riding through the back of beyond. The
bearings and seals on
the Shimano dynamo hubs are comparable to, and fail in
the same way, as
the bearings and seals on their non-dynamo hubs.


I think he's talking about having to have a soldering iron
to fix the dynamo.

You fix it Joerg style. You find a piece of flint, strike it
against a steel part of your bicycle, use the resulting
spark to start a fire, get it good and hot while you pry a
nail out of a nearby fence, use a strand of fence wire to
fasten it to a branch for a handle, heat the nail in the
fire, and use the hot nail to fuse the excess solder you've
scraped off a different part of the hub's internals.

Simple.


Advanced would be Thermite made from scavenged beer cans and fence
nails, pulverized between rocks.

I'll shake the hand of any man that can light thermite with a flint and
steel.

My thoughts exactly!

We're agreed then: No cyclist worthy of the name should be without a
few inches of magnesium ribbon in his or her seat bag.

--